Checking torsion rod setting

[Ashyukun]

I remember at one point being told how to check to see whether or not the torsion rods were set properly for the weight on the doors- I remember it involving removing the gas struts and seeing how the doors hung without them, but not the details- could someone refresh my memory?

I'm pretty sure at least my driver's side gas strut needs replacing, but also think the torsion bar may not be set high enough.

Thanks!

[Farrar]

I believe the rule of thumb is that the door should hang open 4 to 6 inches without the strut installed.

Farrar

[Cory W]

Remove your gas strut....just the top/door mounted side is enough. Rest the strut between t-panel and weatherstrip.

Let the door "rest" without closing. See how far "up" your door sits in that position.

If the door is 2-4" up, your torsion bars are fine. EDIT: Or as Farrar says. You know you have an issue if it rests right against the body

Remember, torsion bars seem weaker as the temperature starts dropping. It may just be seasonal, with no need to go in there.

Another question: How's your "door cage"? It's possible it could be lifting up from the body, and that can make the bars seem less effective (and let your louvers bump into the rear edge of the T-panel)

[Bitsyncmaster]

With new struts just set it so the doors don't sag in the winter.

[Dangermouse]

Also make sure all your door panels etc are on.

They may not weigh much, but make a big difference when hung out in space at the end of the arc.

[jawn101]

Hypothetically, if one determined that their torsion bars needed adjusting... Isn't it a really complex and even dangerous procedure that needs special tools? That's how the shop manual spins it anyway, I was planning to treat 2100 to a trip to DMCCA for a door alignment some day. I am a big fan of doing all my own work but I also try to recognize when I'm in over my head :)

Am I wrong? Is this easier than I think?

[Rich W]

jawn101,

You are correct. If at all possible, you should at least observe the adjustment
process before considering attempting doing it yourself (with or without help).

There are many things to be aware of and to be extra careful when doing,
since doing them incorrectly can damage the car, parts or your own body parts.

There are some "special" (recommended) tools that will make the process much
easier and much safer, for your car and yourself, and taking it to a DMC shop is
one of the safest ways to have the work done, especially if there is an issue
with the torsion bar bracket bolts, torsion bar end splines, etc.

Below is a link to some of the tools that are needed/recommended. Note there
are some variations in tools used, from list to list, but these are the basics:

http://www.dmcnews.com/Techsection/torsionbar.html

As others have mentioned, ambient temperature during the adjustment must be
considered when deciding how you want your doors adjusted. Summer heat and
direct sunlight will make a big difference, as well as any use during the Winter.

Later,
Rich W.

[Bitsyncmaster]

What happens often is the bracket will not pull off. This is because you can not get all the forces off the splines. Mine had this problem at a tech session and even with all the knowledgeable people and helpers it would not come off.

What got it off was removing the T-panel so I could prop the door vertical. That let me release any remaining tension on the bar. Then the bracket just slid off no problem.

[Farrar]

It's easier with three people -- one of them being strong enough to hold tension on the torsion bar while a second adjusts the bracket, and a third holds the door at the proper height.

After that, you need three cans of beer. ;)

Farrar

[Cory W]

I've done my torsion bars alone on three separate occasions. Once to release tension to pin down my roof cage. Again to restore tension after the job was done. Third time was my driver door only, putting tension up one spline because I'd purposefully reduced tension on it before (new bars weren't out at that time) and I didn't like the way my door sagged in the cold.

It's not impossible to do it alone, but
a)you need to know exactly what you're doing.
b)You need to understand the forces working against you.
c)You need to prepare and be properly equipped. This includes supporting the door open with something sturdy.

If you've ever set the tension on a garage door spring, it's a similar feeling, only sideways and on a smaller scale.

[Ashyukun]

Well, I pulled the gas struts this afternoon and checked out how the doors hung- and it's blatantly obvious the torsion bars need to be cranked up a notch or so. The passenger door is better than the driver's side, but the driver's side doesn't stay open at all. I'm guessing I'll need to haul it up to Cinci to get the bars adjusted since I doubt anyone closer has the tools & experience doing it.

Both gas struts need to be replaced too... but I'm not going to put new ones on the car until the torsion bars are set properly so I hopefully don't kill another set prematurely...

[Rich W]

As others have mentioned, it is not impossible to do this adjustment yourself,
but it is helpful to have others around who have done door adjustments before,
especially if everything does not go as expected (expect the unexpected).

If you try to do this yourself, you can run the risk of cross-threading the bracket
bolts while trying to put the bolts back in, while also putting tension on the door
torsion bar, while keeping the bracket aligned properly, etc.

There are also other factors to look for before making a door adjustment, such
as the metal door and roof re-inforcement panel coming unglued from the roof
fiberglass section, which can also indirectly cause a "door droop" condition.

Check the roof re-inforcement plate (as a "while you are in there" check) and
plan to make the modification as listed below, if it has not already been done.
This can also correct roof/door T-panel rubbing, some door creaking, etc.

http://www.dmcnews.com/Techsection/tbar.htm

Later,
Rich W.


Note: Watch for brackets that can "buldge" from too much stress on the splines.

This can make for a difficult, on-the-fly fix, especially at a Tech Session.

[David T]

I have seen cross-threaded bolts, damaged splines, split allen sockets, and rounded allen sockets. Many of the problems can be seen in advance but not always. A REAL surprise if you are trying to do a bunch of door adjustments at a Tech session with limited resources and a lot of lookers. And with the inherent danger of all of that power in the torsion bar things can get dangerous quickly. Some cars I had to refuse to attempt. If you get stuck with any of that and you are alone you can be in serious trouble. Especially if you never did one before!!!!!!!!! Most of the ones I see now have been cranked on WAY too much to compensate for weak struts so you have to loosen a spline or two. That meant the whole system was overloaded for a while and it is very hard on the anchor points and roof structure making it all flex more than it should. One tip-off you are in for trouble is when the anchor pins for the door latches are off and you have to slam the door. It goes downhill fast from there! Expect the unexpected. At a recent Tech session we couldn't get one of the door struts loose. Had to hit it with a hammer and a block of wood to get the thing to let go of the ball. (YES, we removed the clip!)
David Teitelbaum

[Morpheus]

Both gas struts need to be replaced too... but I'm not going to put new ones on the car until the torsion bars are set properly so I hopefully don't kill another set prematurely...

My advice would be to set the doors AFTER buying new struts. Adjusting the torsion bars by the "hang open method" is a rough estimate at best. New struts will affect how quickly the door opens, and weather or not it bounces at the top of it's travel. This is also a good way to know when your struts need replacing in the future... once the torsion bars are set to a pair of new struts, you should never have to touch them again unless you reduce or add weight to the doors.

The way I do this is:

1. Open door, prop it up with a piece of wood or use a strong friend.
2. Pop the old strut off completely.
3. Carefully adjust 1 spline up or down depending on your current door opening forces. Personally, I would never attempt this solo or without the right jig. At minimum, I insist on 2 people: 1 person holding tension on the bar, 1 person removing bolts and adjusting splines.
4. Pop the NEW strut on the posts.
5. Close the door (should be able to do so with a finger)
6. Open the door and be prepared to stop it if it's too fast.

Do this until the door stops at full open, with perhaps a slight bounce at the top MAXIMUM. The bounce will happen in the summer time, but in the winter not so much.

[Ryan S.]

I thought that my tortion bars were over adjusted because with new struts, doors just open too fast and too hard. So today, I took struts off and wanted to see how far they would lift. To my surprise, they rest right against body. Looks like mine was never over adjusted, rather under.

I bought a set of soft lift struts, thinking that they would be gentle. I think they are too powerful for my doors. Has anyone had experiences with John's soft lift struts?




Remove your gas strut....just the top/door mounted side is enough. Rest the strut between t-panel and weatherstrip.

Let the door "rest" without closing. See how far "up" your door sits in that position.

If the door is 2-4" up, your torsion bars are fine. EDIT: Or as Farrar says. You know you have an issue if it rests right against the body

Remember, torsion bars seem weaker as the temperature starts dropping. It may just be seasonal, with no need to go in there.

Another question: How's your "door cage"? It's possible it could be lifting up from the body, and that can make the bars seem less effective (and let your louvers bump into the rear edge of the T-panel)

[jawn101]

I thought that my tortion bars were over adjusted because with new struts, doors just open too fast and too hard. So today, I took struts off and wanted to see how far they would lift. To my surprise, they rest right against body. Looks like mine was never over adjusted, rather under.

I bought a set of soft lift struts, thinking that they would be gentle. I think they are too powerful for my doors. Has anyone had experiences with John's soft lift struts?

That's weird, Ryan. You had very serious bouncing and your new struts were the good Stabilus kind, regardless of where they came from. Your roof cage is also the most separated I've ever seen, which were both factors that absolutely pointed at very turned-up torsion bars. Never fear, we will get to the bottom of it!

[Bitsyncmaster]

Adjust your bars when you have new struts so the door just stay fully open in the coldest air temp you use the car in. That door drop thing is not going to let you adjust the bars correctly.

I've had John's soft lift struts for quite a few years now an love them. I wonder how long they will last.

[Rich]

My advice would be to set the doors AFTER buying new struts. Adjusting the torsion bars by the "hang open method" is a rough estimate at best.

+1 on this recommendation.

The "strutless door-hang" test method is not a good indicator of correct torsion bar preload.

You are going to buy new struts sooner or later. Buy them, try them (at temperature >60F/15C) and go from there.

A correctly adjusted door with struts that are less than 3-5 years old lifts without bouncing yet does not sag (except in cold weather and even then it will stay up, given a nudge) and is easy to close.

[Ryan S.]

Thanks guys. I am little puzzled about this. My T panel indicates over adjusted torsion bar but PO told me that he never adjusted torsion bar. I believe him because he hardly did anything to the car unless absolutely necessary. Torsion bar adjustment by PO is highly unlikely. And strutless test confirms this. But the soft lift struts open doors too wildly with multiple bounces. Well... hope we can solve this mystery at the next tech day at my home next month.

Jon, may be I can try out your struts when you are here next month. We can compare the soft lift vs DMC struts. We can even make Youtube - strut comparison test.

[Rich]

Thanks guys. I am little puzzled about this. My T panel indicates over adjusted torsion bar but PO told me that he never adjusted torsion bar. I believe him because he hardly did anything to the car unless absolutely necessary. Torsion bar adjustment by PO is highly unlikely. And strutless test confirms this.

Am sure you will get to the bottom of it. You have Jon standing by, which is great.

You do seem sure that the PO did not jack up the torsion bars. And I assume that there was no PO before that one. So let's say the bars haven't been fiddled with by a PO.

There is a non-PO way the bars could have been messed with. The original dealer or anybody who serviced the car in the early days might have done it on an owner's behalf whether the owner remembers that or not.

It happened to me.

When the doors on our car were starting to sag the first time I took it back to the dealer since he was still offering non-warranty D service and would "know what to do". He jacked up the torsion bars on both sides. Left the original struts in place. Big mistake. At the time I didn't know any better, either. And it seemed to fix the problem. Of course, later on the doors again sagged when the struts lost even more juice.

When I went to fix it properly by de-torquing the bars and renewing the struts I found that the ends of the bars and their brackets still had the match-marks on them that were made by the dealer before the adjustment. Using the marks I could count the offset of the notches for each bar. As it happened, by the way, the bars were put back to the original match marks and worked great ever since.

Look closely at the rear ends of your bars in case somebody left you a hint there last time they visited....the book method from DMC calls for penciling a reference mark across the bracket and bar before disassembly. It's a big hint if you find it.

[jawn101]

We did remove the rear cowl to assess the extent of the roof lifting on Ryan's car but didn't check for the pencil marks. Next time!

[Bitsyncmaster]

I don't think John's soft lift struts should be bouncing even with an over torqued bar. Maybe the struts are defective. Mine will never bounce even in mid summer but my bars are adjusted to just keep the doors open in the winter.

[Chris 16409]

Mine are leaking oil. Isn't that a sign to get new ones?

[Bitsyncmaster]

Mine are leaking oil. Isn't that a sign to get new ones?

Is it just a film of oil? I have not noticed any oil on mine.

[Rich]

Mine are leaking oil. Isn't that a sign to get new ones?

It depends on whether you are seeing a problem. Doors not drooping? Doors not bouncing and they were soft-lifts? Then keep the struts. But they may not last much longer.....

The oil may be either the hydraulic damping oil or the seal lube oil.

[Chris 16409]

It depends on whether you are seeing a problem. Doors not drooping? Doors not bouncing and they were soft-lifts? Then keep the struts. But they may not last much longer.....

The oil may be either the hydraulic damping oil or the seal lube oil.

They only work really good if the car has been sitting in the sun for a while. Otherwise I pretty much have to lift the doors up all the way. They usually stay up once I push them up.

[Dangermouse]

+1 on this recommendation.

The "strutless door-hang" test method is not a good indicator of correct torsion bar preload.

I am curious why you say this. Any thread on this subject I have seen seems to use this test as an initial starting point.

I also have Johns struts. The first set lasted 2 years and I am 2 years into the second set. No bouncing, but they don't like the cold.

[Rich]

[The "strutless door-hang" test method is not a good indicator of correct torsion bar preload.].... I am curious why you say this. Any thread on this subject I have seen seems to use this test as an initial starting point.
Good question. Yes, many such claims about that method are out there. Allow me to explain.

I say this because it was misleading in my case despite those threads that I also at first believed. That method indicated that my bars were under-torqued. They barely cleared the door frame in that test, perhaps extending 2 inches at most, yet one door was 2 notches too tight and the other was 1 notch too tight in actual practice with new DMCH struts at 70degF temperature. So I conclude that it is not a good indicator. A potential starting point, maybe, like within 2 spline notches of final setting in my case. And, at 10 deg per spline notch increment, that's a very rough starting point. The indicator is whether the doors, with good struts, open properly and can be closed without excess pull force.

The risk with promoting this indicator test is that some owners will pull their struts off, try the strutless door-hang method and conclude, perhaps in error, that the torsion bars are correctly preloaded when, in fact, the bars may have too high a preload due to the all-too-common PO or dealer error of increasing torsion bar preload to compensate for normally-worn-out door struts. And then they suffer the consequences.

It is not difficult to get new struts - or borrow a pair, as many owners do - and see how the doors behave with good struts at the proper temperature, then make adjustments from there. And nowadays the most likely torsion bar adjustment needed is a reduction of the preload.

I am open to data supporting the strutless door-hang test.

[Rich]

They only work really good if the car has been sitting in the sun for a while. Otherwise I pretty much have to lift the doors up all the way. They usually stay up once I push them up.

Then buy a pair of new struts. If in doubt try to borrow a known-good pair. A swap takes only minutes with few or no tools.

You do not say how long the car has been this way. In the past the gas struts would last 3-6 year before starting to lose enough gas to start to cause some partial door droop problem such as you describe. Every year it will get somewhat worse. This is completely normal and is part of the regular maintenance of the car.

Again, at normal/warm temps both doors should self-lift to the top of their travel with the car level. With no bounce at the end. When they start to wear out they will be like yours....able to hold the door at top only if you help.

As you note, temperature makes a difference.

Yours seem to be near the end of their lives.

[Bitsyncmaster]

I must also note that I keep my doors open when parked at home (99.9 % of the time). So my struts should last a lot longer since they are under less pressure.

[Ryan S.]

Do you have a switch to turn off the door lights when you keep your doors open?

[Bitsyncmaster]

Do you have a switch to turn off the door lights when you keep your doors open?

My dome light unit shuts them off after 10 minuets.

[Dangermouse]

My struts live outside, so I would imaging that there is a certain amount of "shrinkage" in winter that allows the gas to slowly leak out.

[Chris 16409]

I have a set of DPNW's Stabilus door struts. I got them about 2 years agao. Toby had a lifetime warranty on these, so I'm not sure how long they are supposed to last.

[Chris 16409]

I have a set of DPNW's Stabilus door struts. I got them about 2 years agao. Toby had a lifetime warranty on these, so I'm not sure how long they are supposed to last.

So apparently, Stabilus has discontinued the gas struts. DPNW offered a lifetime warranty on them but since they aren't made anymore, DPNW has no way of getting warranty replacements. So my question is, who's struts are the favorite around here?

[jawn101]

So apparently, Stabilus has discontinued the gas struts. DPNW offered a lifetime warranty on them but since they aren't made anymore, DPNW has no way of getting warranty replacements. So my question is, who's struts are the favorite around here?

+1 on this, the struts I got from Houston in 2011 are already droopy. Very curious who the preferred struts come from myself. :)

[David T]

I am toying with the idea of getting a set of "dead" struts and trying to weld a fitting onto them so I can refill them. The struts themselves do not go bad, it is just that after a while they lose some gas pressure because over time a tiny leak will eventually reduce the pressure to the point where they no longer have enough power. I have a bottle of Nitrogen I use for A/C that could be used to refill them. All that is necessary is a way to get the gas in and what pressure a "new" strut should be.
David Teitelbaum

[Bitsyncmaster]

I am toying with the idea of getting a set of "dead" struts and trying to weld a fitting onto them so I can refill them. The struts themselves do not go bad, it is just that after a while they lose some gas pressure because over time a tiny leak will eventually reduce the pressure to the point where they no longer have enough power. I have a bottle of Nitrogen I use for A/C that could be used to refill them. All that is necessary is a way to get the gas in and what pressure a "new" strut should be.
David Teitelbaum

I've thought about do that also. Just that your dealing with very high pressures. Will you fitting weaken the cylinder? Will the welding distort the cylinder?

[Elvis]

I've been posting this for 10 years now bust still people don't give a sh...

yeah well, let's try it again.


Back then Adrian - the head of the German Delorean Club sold these adjustable / refillable struts.

Bought and adjusted mine back then and they still are great.
I have to refill one side now because of the heavier window drive I installed.

Since I installed 3 sets of them I really wonder how one can sell perfect fitting
struts. It needs a lot of fine adjustment to get the doors working nicely but not
too strong.

Those struts have a pressure of around 180 Bar inside !!!!!


Source today ? THE German dealer.

[Jack]

Back then Adrian - the head of the German Delorean Club sold these adjustable / refillable struts.


Do you have a link or contact info for those?

[David T]

I remember you saying that. The problem for us in the US is that by the time you pay the shipping and the service, and the time it will take, you are better off just replacing them. Maybe if DMC** would offer a refill service with an exchange program that could be better. In the meantime I may investigate the feasibility of doing it. As for what pressure, all it takes is to measure the force a "good" strut produces and experiment with adjusting the pressure until you can achieve the same result. The bonnet and rear sunshade don't seem to wear out as quickly, probably because they have less pressure to leak out since they don't need as much force. I have a Tenant that specializes in high pressure equipment and gases. I am going to take a strut to him and ask him what it will take. Maybe I can drill and tap a fitting into it.
David Teitelbaum

[Elvis]

Do you have a link or contact info for those?

www.deloman.de

if you can't find them online - send him an email.


@Dave - we order in the US regularly so why not the other way around ?


AND - when you hear me saying 180BAR then normally I thought I'd hear you
saying - WATCH OUT, THAT'S A HELL OF A PRESSURE !!!

[eagle-co94]

Guys, Wolfgang is a really nice guy and if you've seen his webpage you'll know he doesn't skimp on detail or parts. I'd suggest putting together a large order and have them delivered to a tech event or get together of some sort. That way shipping can be split among a group.

[David T]

That is a lot of pressure but it is in the range that Scuba tanks and Firefighters use all the time. Welding gases also get into that range so it is not all that extraordinary. Like anything that has the potential to cause harm, you must use the proper precautions. If Wolfgang can do it, so can others. There should be enough of a market here in the US that we should be able to recharge them here and not have to ship overseas. My guess is that as the struts age and get refilled they will need more refills because the seals will leak more and faster. Another problem is the currency, the American dollar is not as strong as it used to be so it will cost us more if we ship to Europe. Right now things are a bargain for Europe vis-a-vie the US.
David Teitelbaum

[Elvis]

Wolfgang is only selling them, Adrian found them or had the manufacturer produce them about >10 years ago.

I'm not sure who the manufacturer is but I guess google can tell you a lot.


I refilled/adjusted mine with a manual air pump for air pressure guns that go up to 250 Bar.

[Ryan S.]

Today, Clint installed the front recall kit for me. THANK YOU!!! He makes it too easy.
And we tried my soft lift struts on Clint's car while I was at his place. Just like mine, soft lift struts were too strong for Clint's door and it just flew open and bounced. I am confident that my torsion bars are not over torqued. Looking at how much Clint's door bounced, mine is probably less torqued than Clint's.
I need to return those "Strong Lift" struts to John and get normal ones.

[jawn101]

Today, Clint installed the front recall kit for me. THANK YOU!!! He makes it too easy.
And we tried my soft lift struts on Clint's car while I was at his place. Just like mine, soft lift struts were too strong for Clint's door and it just flew open and bounced. I am confident that my torsion bars are not over torqued. Looking at how much Clint's door bounced, mine is probably less torqued than Clint's.
I need to return those "Strong Lift" struts to John and get normal ones.

Cool man, good to hear. We still need to address your lifting roof structure but hopefully some new struts will help!

[Chris 16409]

Found these listed on eBay. They are StrongArm brand. I believe someone references these in this thread. I check the fully extended length of my struts and they match the specs listed on the auction page. At $60 for a set, it seems like a good deal. And, there is apparently a lifetime limited lifetime warranty on them. It may be worth while to try them. Oh, and there's free shipping on them as well. It is entirely possible that StrongArm is suppling the vendors.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/230933833021

[ramblinmike]

Found these listed on eBay. They are StrongArm brand. I believe someone references these in this thread. I check the fully extended length of my struts and they match the specs listed on the auction page. At $60 for a set, it seems like a good deal. And, there is apparently a lifetime limited lifetime warranty on them. It may be worth while to try them. Oh, and there's free shipping on them as well. It is entirely possible that StrongArm is suppling the vendors.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/230933833021

They're on Amazon as well for $17.90 each.

http://www.amazon.com/StrongArm-4107-DeLorean-Side-Support/dp/B004A6GX2O

Anyone tried these?

[Chris 16409]

They're on Amazon as well for $17.90 each.

http://www.amazon.com/StrongArm-4107-DeLorean-Side-Support/dp/B004A6GX2O

Anyone tried these?

It looks like the seller on Amazon is the same one on eBay. I wonder why the large price difference. You can get 2 on amazon for under $40.

[David T]

With the little research I have done so far it appears a common service procedure, repressurizing the struts, in Australia and the UK. In the US everyone I have spoken to thinks I am nuts for trying to fix a disposable part. Suspension struts CAN be done but the pressure range they operate in is very low compared to the door struts. Although it looks like it may be possible to do, the results do not last long, maybe a year or 2 tops. And that is for the lower pressure gas springs, not high pressure such as the door struts. I am going to keep looking into this but from an economic point of view it does not look promising. The equipment and the labor makes it expensive, especially if the results don't last.
David Teitelbaum

[Chris 16409]

The idea seems promising Dave. At the same time, you probably couldn't refill the struts at the price of $18 each. I think I'm going to try the StongArm struts on Amazon.

[eagle-co94]

It looks like the seller on Amazon is the same one on eBay. I wonder why the large price difference. You can get 2 on amazon for under $40.

Probably because the guy doesn't like getting bent over by eBay's fees and Paypal's fees. Oh wait, eBay bought Paypal, so basically their fees twice.

[ramblinmike]

The idea seems promising Dave. At the same time, you probably couldn't refill the struts at the price of $18 each. I think I'm going to try the StongArm struts on Amazon.

Keep us posted. I'm in the market for a set in the near future.

[David T]

One thing to be careful of when trying to source the door struts from other than Delorean venders. Make VERY sure that when they are fully compressed they do not bottom out and bend the anchor points. Way back DMCH had a batch that did that and a lot of cars got their anchors ruined and that is why a kit was created to fix the damage. Also if they are overcharged they will overstress the anchor points and bounce the doors.
David Teitelbaum

[Elvis]

David - get a pair of the adjustable ones to get a feeling of what you want to do.

Pumping it up to 180 Bar is just the beginning of the game.
Afterwards you have to release some pressure to set it correctly.

Example: when I pumped them up to ~180 Bar, I had to release some tiny amounts
of pressure with a cut nail and a hammer. Between 20 and 50 times I had to hit it
and 5-10 times checking it on the car.


The difference between set too strong and too weak is about 1-2 Bar (just from my
feelings, I can't measure it !!!)

AND

The propper amount of oil sets the position when the door slows down before it hits the
roof.


I need a better way to refill them, suggestions would be great. 180 Bar !!!!

[Sammy]

According to the cross reference list, Strongagm 4107 works fine.

https://spreadsheets.google.com/spreadsheet/lv?key=0AuGGjDnScTC7dGl5NURiNzJaTDQ0dGhMemxCWWNrV3 c&hl=en_US#gid=0

[Ryan S.]

Last week, John H sent me replacement Soft lift struts and they work great. First units were defective and was over charged. New ones open up fast but slow down at the top and never bounce.

[Farrar]

Last week, John H sent me replacement Soft lift struts and they work great. First units were defective and was over charged. New ones open up fast but slow down at the top and never bounce.

Same struts as mine. FWIW, here's how they work on my car. I had not opened the doors in a week, so they were ready to fly open. But the "damping" (not sure if it's the right word) works very well:


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2NXRSEgZE84

[Timebender]

Glad I found this thread as the D that's been sitting in my work's parking lot for a long while (which I'm still kind of interested in) seems to be exhibiting over torqued torsion bars on the passenger side. The T panel is slightly lifting - although the gas struts are dead. Also on the driver side the louvers do kind of hit. The driver door does sit against the body when down, though the door closes softly, whereas on the passenger door if you let go when the door closes it almost slams shut.

Thoughts?

[Ryan S.]

Your torsion bar setting might be ok. You may just need some new struts and perform the following repair work.

http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?6490-Torsion-Bar-Reinforcement-Panel&highlight=torsion+roof

[jawn101]

Glad I found this thread as the D that's been sitting in my work's parking lot for a long while (which I'm still kind of interested in) seems to be exhibiting over torqued torsion bars on the passenger side. The T panel is slightly lifting - although the gas struts are dead. Also on the driver side the louvers do kind of hit. The driver door does sit against the body when down, though the door closes softly, whereas on the passenger door if you let go when the door closes it almost slams shut.

Thoughts?

Some pictures or a video would go a long way in this situation. A lot of times the torsion bars are cranked up to compensate for failing struts. The doors are very heavy so a totally shot strut would exhibit the slamming you observed on the passenger side. A lifting roof usually but not always points at over-torqued bars. You'd need to remove the plastic rear valence that holds the T panel down to really get a perspective on how much if any lifting has occurred. Otherwise the rubbing of the louver on the roof could just be a misadjusted louver.

[jawn101]

Your torsion bar setting might be ok. You may just need some new struts and perform the following repair work.

http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?6490-Torsion-Bar-Reinforcement-Panel&highlight=torsion+roof

And as Ryan learned last weekend - don't get 4" long bolts like the poster/how-to author recommends! 3" is more than enough if you want to go safe, I used 2.5" and didn't have to cut anything off inside the car. :)

[Ryan S.]

My Dremel can handle any size bolts. :tongue_stick:

[Chris 16409]

I recieved my StrongArm door struts I ordered off Amazon. I ordered them from the "Lifts Support Depot" seller. They are based in California. They installed easily and seem to work just fine. For the price, you can't beat them.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004A6GX2O/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=AZUEGS6F7RLJ5

$17.90 each with free shipping.

[David T]

Pull the struts off and do the "Hang test". The door should remain open between 4-6 inches on just the torsion bar if it is set properly. Both doors should hang open the same amount. This test is NOT temperature dependent. It has been observed that some owners overtightened the torsion bars to compensate for weak (old) door struts. Not the thing to do because when you eventually do replace the struts the doors now have TOO much power and bounce. It also over stresses the roof system eventually leading to delaminating the structure.
David Teitelbaum

[Patrick C]

I recieved my StrongArm door struts I ordered off Amazon. I ordered them from the "Lifts Support Depot" seller. They are based in California. They installed easily and seem to work just fine. For the price, you can't beat them.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004A6GX2O/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=AZUEGS6F7RLJ5

$17.90 each with free shipping.

Thanks! Just orderd a pair to try out. The price is right!!!

[Timebender]

Thanks guys - hopefully I'll get a chance next week to try it out.