Fuse panel relay upgrade install question

[Dontilgon]

All electronics are currently working with the fuel guage(order an upgrade kit) but to take preventive measures I purchase relay update kit form DMCH. Before tackling I wanted to be familiar with a stock fuse panel to see if any butchering and so I read a bunch of old threads. Unfortunately I couldn’t locate a stock photo so if someone as one that would great.
Second could someone point out what modifications were made already . Only two I can tell is they put an extra relay next to 18,19 and removed relay 10. Also any additional upgrades I should make that the kit does not provide.

[Bitsyncmaster]

That removed relay with the jumper is to make the AC panel lights only come on when the car lights are on.

Looks like your fuse #7 has seen overheating.

One of your circuit breakers is not wired to anything.

[powerline84]

Get an rpm relay from Dave and if your still running stock fans get one of his fan fail relays .

[DMC5180]

Your wiring appears to be Stock. I don’t see any unidentifiable ones.

If you ordered the the DMCH kit, just follow the instructions that should come with it.

Things that will change.

You will get a new Fused fan fail jumper assembly. This will replace the Black/ green wires in the Blue socket.

The A/C panel illumination Relay has been removed and the Black/Red bypass jumper installed. This is a common modification so that the A/C panel is only back lit when the Headlight/park lights are on. The OE bulbs put out a lot of heat. This mod helped keep that a minimum. If you install LED’s it’s not a problem, then it just becomes a personal preference.
If you want to make it look factory and retain the modification, you snip/break off the center tab 87a on the relay.

A replacement thermal trip breaker was installed next too the the original. The kit will have one that fits the Original location. Remove the added breaker, replace the OE (unused one) and install the New one from the kit. Pay attention to the wire positions on the relay. The Brown wire goes to the BATT terminal on the breaker. Also it appears the wire connection got hot by evidence of some melting plastic terminal housing.

I’m curious what VIN you have?
You have a fuse 18 (brake light). Many cars don’t use position 18, but have an inline fuse located forward in the harness.



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[Dontilgon]

VIN 17007 1983 Sept.

Okay I’m stuck on breaker 19 . Instructions says 12V should be connected to BAT side of breaker and the other wire to ACC side. Which is suppose to have the 12v orange/brown or brown/black. I’m not getting 12v from either .

[Dontilgon]

i think the 12v is the orange and brown . I’m thinking the 83 might have a slightly different harness. What are the wires for on the door lock circuit breaker. I have 12v on the brown wire so I put that on batt side then there is a thin and thick red wire. Thick red wire reads 0volts but I can see it goes to the door lock module but the thin red wire reads 12v. What does that go to and Should I put these this red wires on Acc side?

[DMC5180]

i think the 12v is the orange and brown . I’m thinking the 83 might have a slightly different harness. What are the wires for on the door lock circuit breaker. I have 12v on the brown wire so I put that on batt side then there is a thin and thick red wire. Thick red wire reads 0volts but I can see it goes to the door lock module but the thin red wire reads 12v. What does that go to and Should I put these this red wires on Acc side?

Yes , Brown/orange is the 12v supply for the breaker that goes in the empty holder.

The small red wire is the always Live 12v for the Power Antenna.


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[Dontilgon]

Yes , Brown/orange is the 12v supply for the breaker that goes in the empty holder.

The small red wire is the always Live 12v for the Power Antenna.


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Ahh power antenna thanks. I presume it goes in the ACC side. Thanks for everyone’s help. I appreciate it.


Joe
Any chance anyone one has a 1983 stock fuse panel picture.

[DMC5180]

Yes,ACC side.

The only difference in fuse boxes will be whether FUSE 18 is used or not. Fuse Boxes without Fuse 18, DO NOT have wire terminals in that location.
If the fuse in that location looks like the rest, it’s factory and unlikely to be a PO Added (hidden circuit)

Also the fuses you have with LARGE amp numbers are Original. Its your choice , but I would replace them with New fuses. (Cheap insurance)

At the very minimum you should pull all of them and clean the tabs with scotch-brite or fine emery cloth.






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[Dontilgon]

I crimped new terminals on the burnt wires above. I don’t remember which side of the breaker these two wires came out of either battery or AUX side. I did the 12 V test has in the instructions but both do not read 12 V. According to the instructions one of them should read 12 V and that should go onto the battery side of the breaker. My battery is connected and reading 12.2 V. Any ideas thanks

[David T]

Verify each fuse is the correct size in each location. Examine each fuse for any signs of melting or overheating. Make sure as you reinstall fuses and relays that none of the connectors "back out" and fail to make good contact. Each connector should be "springy" and grip the terminals tightly. Keep some extra fuses handy and leave the cover off the fuseblock. Look for any sign of rodent damage or droppings. Add a 10 amp in-line fuse to the big red wire going to the door lock module.

[Dontilgon]

I crimped new terminals on the burnt wires above. I don’t remember which side of the breaker these two wires came out of either battery or AUX side. I did the 12 V test has in the instructions but both do not read 12 V. According to the instructions one of them should read 12 V and that should go onto the battery side of the breaker. My battery is connected and reading 12.2 V. Any ideas thanks

Forgot to mention it’s the 40 amp relay for the black/orange and orange/brown wire I’m stuck at

[DMC5180]

Forgot to mention it’s the 40 amp relay for the black/orange and orange/brown wire I’m stuck at

It’s a 40 amp thermal trip circuit breaker, not a relay. It is located electrically, between the cool Fan relay and the blue fan fail module socket. You will not see 12v on either wire unless the Fan relay has been triggered to turn the radiator fans on. You can force command the fan relay on by turning the Key to Run and switching the A/C mode switch to Max or norm. If the A/C system has sufficient charge you will hear the Compressor clutch “click”. That same feed circuit with switch the Fan relay ON. Then you can test for 12V on the Brown/Orange wire. Some cars have Brown/orange for both wires, mine did. Other are like yours with brown/ orange and black/orange. IIRC, brown/ orange is from the Fan relay to the BAT side of the 40 amp breaker. Black/orange is ACC side of breaker to the blue fan fail module socket.


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[Dontilgon]

It’s a 40 amp thermal trip circuit breaker, not a relay. It is located electrically, between the cool Fan relay and the blue fan fail module socket. You will not see 12v on either wire unless the Fan relay has been triggered to turn the radiator fans on. You can force command the fan relay on by turning the Key to Run and switching the A/C mode switch to Max or norm. If the A/C system has sufficient charge you will hear the Compressor clutch “click”. That same feed circuit with switch the Fan relay ON. Then you can test for 12V on the Brown/Orange wire. Some cars have Brown/orange for both wires, mine did. Other are like yours with brown/ orange and black/orange. IIRC, brown/ orange is from the Fan relay to the BAT side of the 40 amp breaker. Black/orange is ACC side of breaker to the blue fan fail module socket.


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Okay, got it BAT is brown/orange. I was just following the instructions provided. So in the process of changing the antenna I noticed this disconnected. There’s no way this just came loose. The female terminal seems to be coming out of number 9 on the black box. What is this ? Thanks Joe

[DMC5180]

The connector goes here:

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181229/ee271a76c7c4c88208371433fd8e28ea.jpg

It is part of the Idle micro-switch circuit.


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[Dontilgon]

Thanks again , any reason PO disconnected ?

[DMC5180]

Thanks again , any reason PO disconnected ?

Not that I can think of. Dave (BITSYNCMASTR) understands that circuit better than I do. I will defer to him to explain it, if he ops to chime in here. It’s possible that it just got snagged and pulled out while other things were disturbed in the area.


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[Bitsyncmaster]

That connection goes to a diode in the harness which drives the idle ECU a signal from the idle switch. I know of no reason anyone would disconnect that connection. With my idle ECU you remove the diode and connect the two wires (if you remove the idle switch). Not sure what an open circuit on the OEM idle ECU would do (I don't think it changes much). The idle switch would still be switching the advance solenoid on and off even with that connection disconnected.