Bulkhead pins pushed in - Reverse light

[nkemp]

Chasing why the reverse light didn't work lead me to the bulkead connectors. Eventually I noticed a pin in the connector was pushed in ... so far that I couldn't get anything to pull it out.

Fuzzy picture of the offending pin:
58075

I removes the 6 bolts that I hoped held the panel (BTW ... to remove the bulkhead panel, it takes more than the 6 bolts!). I managed to wedge the panel far enough open to get a screwdriver in and motivate the pin out far enough that I could pull it with the needlenose. That was luck!!! otherwise I was in for a lot more disassembly. This is all the space available to work with:
58076

Now the pin is out ... but what you cannot see, and I didn't notice right away, is that a pin (alternator light) in the lower left connector was pushed in as well. That one had just enough (like 1mm) that I could pull it a bit with the needlenose.

When I pulled them out I checked all the pins by lightly pushing them to make sure they were not going to slide back in.

Intermittent operation/failure ... check that the bulkhead pins are not recessed. My dash battery light works with it recessed, the reverse lights did not. Both could have been intermittent.

Who needs yoga when you have a DeLorean. Working on that part has fully stretched my hamstrings.

[Josh]

Awesome trouble shooting, would be the last thing to think of - a collapsed terminal.

I would have removed the plug from the interior side, now you gotta seal that plate up again :neener:

Edit: looks like there is no sealant there. The deloreans I have seen have had sealant around the bulkhead panel.

[nkemp]

Mine has foam as I recall. It was not damaged in the process so I simply bolted it tight again.

What direction, from where do you access the connectors if you don't remove the panel?

[dn010]

You remove the three or so bolts holding the carpeted rear bulkhead assembly behind the cargo net and then either flip the "assembly" down or remove it altogether. The connectors are tucked behind on the passenger side.

The metal panel you removed should have had foam for the coil cover but RTV or similar sealant on the seam (if my memory is fine) where the metal meets the fiberglass.

[nkemp]

Good to know for the next time. I don't recall seeing the rear side of the connectors when I've had that panel off before.

I have the foam cover seal. Since mine separated so easily and cleanly I assumed it was gasketed with rubber/foam/other. I'll have to take a closer look later (when I need my hamstrings stretched again) to see if it is still well sealed.

[DMCMW Dave]

What's really annoying is when they push in like that, but pop back out a little when you pull the connector so it's not as obvious. BTDT

[dn010]

The bulkhead connectors caused me very much agony with numerous engine and tail light problems. Even still with the driver side mirror I am having problems because of that type of connector. They get corroded. They get loose. They push in. PITA!

If only they had weather packs back then... But I'm sure the budget wouldn't allow for them even if they did.

[nkemp]

I may be having intermittent problems as well now. As I drove today I noticed that I didn't notice my brake lights in cars behind me. Wheen home, closed the garage doors and verified no brake lights. Came out a little later to troubleshoot and now I have brake lights.

Time for a beer!

[ritztoys]

Chasing why the reverse light didn't work lead me to the bulkead connectors. Eventually I noticed a pin in the connector was pushed in ... so far that I couldn't get anything to pull it out.

Fuzzy picture of the offending pin:
58075

Now the pin is out ... but what you cannot see, and I didn't notice right away, is that a pin (alternator light) in the lower left connector was pushed in as well. That one had just enough (like 1mm) that I could pull it a bit with the needlenose.

This past weekend I noticed my Alternator/Battery light 'flicker on' while driving to a car show. I've never seen this before, maybe I'm having "recessed pin" trouble too?
I have a one year old battery, extra ground, new alternator and good voltage. The funny thing is the voltage gauge didn't change while I noticed the 'flicker on'.

In your picture, which pin is the dash Alternator/Battery connection I need to check mine, thanks.

[dn010]

See post #19 here:

http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?40-All-Wiring-Schematics/page2

The wire going to the dash light from the alternator is not in the red connector. It is in the shorter white one (it's #31 in the description list)



This past weekend I noticed my Alternator/Battery light 'flicker on' while driving to a car show. I've never seen this before, maybe I'm having "recessed pin" trouble too?
I have a one year old battery, extra ground, new alternator and good voltage. The funny thing is the voltage gauge didn't change while I noticed the 'flicker on'.

In your picture, which pin is the dash Alternator/Battery connection I need to check mine, thanks.

[ritztoys]

Thanks Dan, I'll be checking those pin(s) I did remove those connections when cleaning all my connector pins during my extra ground wire install. (during last winter's rest on jack stands)

[AugustneverEnds]

Has anyone ever had a pin split in half? This winter I finally decided to tackle all of my electric problems and the biggest one has been the cooling fans. I fixed the relay wiring and the fan fail wiring and still the fans are not working right. I pulled the bulkhead connector and sure enough the pin that connects the green wire from the otterstat to fuse 5 was pushed in and split for good measure. I can't decide if I should try to replace the pin or just run new wire from the otterstat to the wiring inside the car.

Does anybody have a source for the pins that are used?

[Josh]

Has anyone ever had a pin split in half? This winter I finally decided to tackle all of my electric problems and the biggest one has been the cooling fans. I fixed the relay wiring and the fan fail wiring and still the fans are not working right. I pulled the bulkhead connector and sure enough the pin that connects the green wire from the otterstat to fuse 5 was pushed in and split for good measure. I can't decide if I should try to replace the pin or just run new wire from the otterstat to the wiring inside the car.

Does anybody have a source for the pins that are used?

http://www.britishwiring.com/product-p/c831.htm

http://www.britishwiring.com/product-p/c832.htm

[AugustneverEnds]

http://www.britishwiring.com/product-p/c831.htm

http://www.britishwiring.com/product-p/c832.htm

Thanks Josh! Man, you know where to find everything!

[Jonathan]

Both DeLoGO and DeLorean Europe have them too. Included with the fuel pump connector replacement (C005). Not sure if they are available individually. I bet they could be if you contacted them and asked.

https://www.deloreango.com/ca/fuel-pump-harness-connector-male.html

https://www.delorean.eu/catalog/index.php?cPath=170

[Bitsyncmaster]

There is a little difference in the British wiring pins and connectors. What I found is the pins are not really made to fit original Lucas connectors but their connectors used with their pins will mate to Lucas connectors.

The Lucas pins have two locking fingers like the photo on the deloreango.com site.