Split orange fuel hose

[Spittybug]

One of my orange fuel hoses behind the A/C accumulator finally split where it meets the hard line. What are people using to replace this? Is there a brand/SKU for replacement or are the DMCH ones the only option? Diameter?

Is this all done through the opening in the trunk? I can't really see how it could be done from the wheel well with the accumulator in the way.

Thanks.


EDIT: Answered my own question when I removed the panel..... pic enclosed. I may just take them to NAPA and get a matching size.

[Patrick C]

Mine did the same. All done through the opening in the trunk. I am using the DMCH supplied rubber hoses and clamps from the new fuel pump kit.

[DMC5180]

I had a orange line failure in September at the fuel pump end.

Gates barracade fuel injection hose.
SAE 30J14R2. It’s about $5 a foot at NAPA or your favorite AP store.

I bought 5/16, but for insurance I also got some 1/4” plus the correct clamps. It turned out the 1/4 fit best. I also wiped a light film of engine oil on the fitting barbs. It pushed on nicely and was resistant to pulling off. The 5/16 was too loose for my liking. I did not want to rely solely on the clamp to keep it tight.




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[FABombjoy]

5/16" nylon fuel tubing fits the stock barbs. You'd have to remove the barbed fittings from the car to press it on, but it will be more reliable than rubber EFI hose.

Dorman 800-074 on the fuel pump fitting:
58481

[Spittybug]

I have my new hose and when I went to put it on I realized that the rubber nipple in the pump sealing boot that the return line goes through was ripped off. Of course DMCH is out of stock on these. My fuel pump works fine and I have no reason to replace it at this time, so I'm looking for just a boot. I'm not sure it's a big deal if that nipple isn't in place or not, the hose line still goes down into the tank. I'm guessing that I might get some sloshing though and I wouldn't want that to come out of the hole..... or maybe vapors.... There is still the rubber cap over all of it so I'm not too worried about vapor. I don't think I want the top of the pump or its wires wet with fuel though.... time to see if I can zip tie it or otherwise seal it.

Just thought I'd check to see if anyone has an old boot from when the perhaps upgraded to the new fuel pump?

Thanks.

[dn010]

Try giving Rob Grady a call. FWIW if you do find some used, it's good to get one as a spare eventually. I've had them turn to gel, I've had DAP's boot crack into a million pieces shortly after install. This usually happens at the most inconvenient times. I've had my share of trouble with the rubber (ever since ethanol is in the fuel!) but I don't want to replace the original setup, it has worked issue free for me for the past 16 years, aside from that damn boot and the occasional pump replacement.

[Spittybug]

I'm on the fence... if the hoses were in this condition and the boot was shot, how much longer does my pump have left in it? I've had the car 12 years and never replaced it. I've been reading several threads on peoples' opinions on it and with the exception of rubber hose related issues, it seems to be good. Not crazy about the price, but I can claw back some of that with the core parts they want to buy back. My sender is only a couple of years old, so maybe I'll sell that too.

[Spittybug]

I just installed the new fuel pump assembly. Fits fine and I didn't seem to have the cover panel closure issues that others have had. I do have an issue with the fuel sender though; full tank and it is only reading 1/2. Never had appreciable misreadings before. I don't know if it is moving or not, I'll have to wait and see. I have a note into DMCH to ask them what I should check, but I thought I'd ask here too. I'm wondering if the float arm somehow came off as I was installing it into the tank....
It's tight quarters working on the gas tank so I'm not relishing the thought of opening back up again.

[dmcnc]

Make sure the float arm is facing the center of the tank. If it's facing the side or front it might jam against the side wall close to halfway up.


I just installed the new fuel pump assembly. Fits fine and I didn't seem to have the cover panel closure issues that others have had. I do have an issue with the fuel sender though; full tank and it is only reading 1/2. Never had appreciable misreadings before. I don't know if it is moving or not, I'll have to wait and see. I have a note into DMCH to ask them what I should check, but I thought I'd ask here too. I'm wondering if the float arm somehow came off as I was installing it into the tank....
It's tight quarters working on the gas tank so I'm not relishing the thought of opening back up again.

[DMC5180]

Run the fuel level down enough so that you can remove the cap on the old sender location and look inside with an inspection mirror and flashlight.


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[dn010]

FWIW, stock replacement fuel pumps can be had for $40 if you ever want to go back in the future. Also let me know if you want to sell your dust cover from the old pump, I've never had one on my car.

[Spittybug]

Solved. Your's truly didn't have the float arm attached to the unit correctly and it fell into the tank. Nothing like fishing around in your full gas tank trying to find a metal rod.... thank goodness for shoulder length rubber gloves! Seems to be ready pretty correctly now. Sarah at DMCH sent me a picture of how it is supposed to look.

For anyone thinking of doing this conversion, ask DMCH for a couple of extra pictures to supplement the instructions. Nowhere within them does it show how to attach the float arm, nor does it mention the large rubber gasket that sits in the tank hole. The latter is pretty intuitive, but the float arm messed me up.

[SS Spoiler]

Had the same problem with float arm