Taking care of 05106

[Parzival]

Post one.
Correction its vin 005106, Long day
So it's only been a few days since the delivery of my car (Shipping from DMCMW to Florida)
I've been getting to know the car, driving short trips around town, so far she is doing very well.

Today we did the first half of the cooling system, Radiator, new fans, and the hoses at the front of the car. We'd hoped to do it all, as I have the full kit from DMC, but it took a good while just on the front, se we decided to stop there for now.

Getting a look at what we're up against.
http://i68.tinypic.com/2h896ie.jpg

Old one out!
http://i67.tinypic.com/25fsx3s.jpg

Before
http://i64.tinypic.com/16hvxnp.jpg

Cleaned up
http://i63.tinypic.com/2zzhuut.jpg

Old fans, These were working fine, and don't really look bad, but the new ones draw less amps so in with the new.
http://i65.tinypic.com/sy496b.jpg

New, with cleaned up surround.
http://i63.tinypic.com/10xrebk.jpg

After installing the new radiator and hoses, it took a bit to get the coolant flowing through the whose system, But after some tinkering we got it so the temp would go up and the fans would come on for a bit and the temp would drop and they'd go off. I let this repeat a few times. I could feel the new radiator and fans putting off heat. Went for a drive, While driving the temp stayed pretty low, as its about 70 out this evening and that air was keeping her cool. New fans are WAY quieter, but I cleaned the old ones up, and they seem to look and work great, So I guess I'll put them on the shelf until I can bring my self to toss em.

I've been making a list of other things to get to on the car,

Gas gauge is all over the map, Shows little or no fuel, but I'm pretty sure I've got it toped off.
Passenger side window will go down, but I've got to really fiddle with the switch, driver side better but not great. (new switches?)
We can't decide if a valve is tapping, it's sounds like maybe? We've listend to other Deloreans on youtube, perhaps this is just how they sound? (Will keep exploring)
Idel is good, steady, I like that.
No AC, This is something I'll probably have DMCFL handle.
Cosmetically the car looks great, Original all around, Seats are really nice for 81, dash and binnacle are not cracked, A little yellow, not noticeably to non delorean people. Original paint on facias is good.
The car has 24,000 miles.
The plan is to get her the care she needs.
Thanks for keeping up with me so far!
http://i65.tinypic.com/2n0le7d.jpg

[DMC-81]

Congrats! It looks like a solid car and you're off to a good start on what it needs.

Cheers,

[Jonathan]

Nice! Those new fans look great. Are those from DMCH?

For the fuel gauge, I'd open up the area under the spare tire and above the fuel tank and have a look at the fuel sender. Check the electrical connector and also check the sender itself. You might have the combo fuel pump/sender, which I'm not familiar with, but if you still have the separate sender, take it out and see if anything is wrong with it. You should be able to gently tilt it and see the fuel gauge move as the float inside the cylinder goes up and down. You should see the idiot light go on on the dash telling you the fuel is low when you do this too.

Or the gauge could have some issue of its own in the cluster. Like a ground connection isn't good. Getting into the cluster is more challenging, so I'd start with looking at the fuel sender in the trunk first.

My experience with slow windows has been switches that are a problem more so than the window motors or the glass inside the doors themselves. It might just be a poor connection underneath the switch as those plastic connectors can get bent or melted. It's easy enough to wiggle the switches out of position for inspection without pulling the whole centre console out. New switches might still be a good idea and all the vendors have them. Might just need the switch replaced, and a couple places offer those. Both DeLoGO and DMC Europe have those switches (C022). They are a good product and very reasonably priced: https://www.deloreango.com/ca/window-switch-connector.html

Have fun with your new car!

[Parzival]

Nice! Those new fans look great. Are those from DMCH?

https://www.deloreango.com/ca/window-switch-connector.html

Have fun with your new car!

Yes they are, I had DMCMW put them and the full cooling kit (not installed in the car) in my car before shipping the car to me,
I did look at the sender under the spare tire, but since we were working on the cooling system I didn't do a real good inspection.

I did have them do a full break rebuild on the car before I got it shipped out.

[David T]

If you don't know what kind of fluids are in the car or when they were last changed you should change all of them and the filters too. Check the date codes on the tires and if over 7 years replace them and the spare tire too. Have the battery tested but if over 5 years old just replace it too. Ticking usually means a valve adjustment. Should hear the frequency valve buzzing. You could try cleaning the fuel sender unit, in the meantime use the trip odometer and fill up after 200 miles. Drive the car and see what else it needs and make a list like door struts, light bulbs, fuses, filters, etc. Verify that all of the recalls have been done. In Florida you will need that A/C to work!

[Parzival]

If you don't know what kind of fluids are in the car or when they were last changed you should change all of them and the filters too. Check the date codes on the tires and if over 7 years replace them and the spare tire too. Have the battery tested but if over 5 years old just replace it too. Ticking usually means a valve adjustment. Should hear the frequency valve buzzing. You could try cleaning the fuel sender unit, in the meantime use the trip odometer and fill up after 200 miles. Drive the car and see what else it needs and make a list like door struts, light bulbs, fuses, filters, etc. Verify that all of the recalls have been done. In Florida you will need that A/C to work!

Thanks!
New battery already,
Oil and filter changed, and full coolant flush done by DMCMW right be for car shipped to me.
All lights are working.
So far she starts right up and idles well, shifting smoothly in all 5 gears,
Im not sure about all the recalls, The car has 25,000 miles on her so most of her is original (like I said, even those fans after being wiped down looked better then some parts on my 2016 tacoma), I think mike at DMCMW said the fuel system was done in 2008. Tires are decent.
Frame is solid as a rock.

I'll keep posting in this thread as I continue to burn down my financial future for this beauty ;)
Keep the insights coming, I greatly appreciate the knowledge from the members here.

[David T]

That still leaves the transmission oil, and the clutch brake fluid. The brakes should be OK since you said they were just done. Read the date codes on each tire. You cannot only go by the remaining tread. The brake and clutch fluid should be changed every other year. Drive the car and empty the tank as low as you can and fill with fresh and a can of Techron. Till you can trust the car you should carry a portable battery pack.

[Parzival]

Oh yeah! The clutch hydraulics we’re done last month by DMCMW forgot that,
On the battery pack, do you have one you recommend? I would like to take your advice on that!


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[David T]

Any good one is probably OK. I like the ones with a light and an air compressor on them but they are bigger and a lot more expensive. Much better than a set of jumper cables. You don't need another car and there is no danger of damaging a stranger's car. Some even have reverse polarity protection.

[Parzival]

Any good one is probably OK. I like the ones with a light and an air compressor on them but they are bigger and a lot more expensive. Much better than a set of jumper cables. You don't need another car and there is no danger of damaging a stranger's car. Some even have reverse polarity protection.

I think i'm gonna pick one up.

[Parzival]

I'm going to DMCFL tomorrow for some window switches, and I've also discovered that I need a steering column bushing.

On Thursday we are going to tackle the rest of the cooling hoses around the engine.
any advice is greatly appreciated!

[DMC-81]

I'm going to DMCFL tomorrow for some window switches, and I've also discovered that I need a steering column bushing.

On Thursday we are going to tackle the rest of the cooling hoses around the engine.
any advice is greatly appreciated!

Hi Austin,

Yes, I have two pieces of advice:

1) Make sure you get the bushing installation procedure from Robert. If not, send me a PM with your email address and I'll send it to you. It makes a proper installation a relative breeze.

2) When installing the coolant hoses, ensure the aluminum pipes are clean and free of any corrosion. I found 600 grit sandpaper helpful in this regard. Also, I used a proper torque value on the hose clamps. Doing this helps prevent any second round of tightening (which you don't want to have to do especially in the VOD). The OEM are Norma Torro.

Here's a link that will help.
http://www.clamps.co.za/Downloads/NORMACLAMP_TORRO_en.pdf

Cheers,
Dana

[Parzival]

Hi Austin,

Yes, I have two pieces of advice:

1) Make sure you get the bushing installation procedure from Robert. If not, send me a PM with your email address and I'll send it to you. It makes a proper installation a relative breeze.


Thanks! I'll be sure to ask him for the directions!


2) When installing the coolant hoses, ensure the aluminum pipes are clean and free of any corrosion. I found 600 grit sandpaper helpful in this regard. Also, I used a proper torque value on the hose clamps. Doing this helps prevent any second round of tightening (which you don't want to have to do especially in the VOD). The OEM are Norma Torro.


Wow, thats more then I ever thought I'd read about clamps! I love how in depth you are!
The hose kit from DMCMW came with all new claps, are the torque values the same?

[David T]

If possible you want silicone hoses under the intake manifold. They will not require retightening. I know PJ Grady sells silicone hoses in his kits.

[powerline84]

I learned this lesson the hard way. When I put my brand new motor in I used the DMC kit . That very first winter after storing it I came out to a puddle of coolant. Pulled the whole top end off and replaced the valley hoses with silicone and havent had a problem since.

[DMC-81]

Thanks! I'll be sure to ask him for the directions!



Wow, thats more then I ever thought I'd read about clamps! I love how in depth you are!
The hose kit from DMCMW came with all new claps, are the torque values the same?

You're welcome. Yes, they should be. They were the same in the full kit that I got from DMCH. The new ones should look much like the ones in the PDF and the old ones. You can call Mike at DMCMW if you are unsure.

It's been 3 years since I installed the kit (radiator, water pump, hoses, etc). After installation, the system held 15 psi overnight, and I have never had a leak... not one a drop.

[Parzival]

You're welcome. Yes, they should be. They were the same in the full kit that I got from DMCH. The new ones should look much like the ones in the PDF and the old ones. You can call Mike at DMCMW if you are unsure.

It's been 3 years since I installed the kit (radiator, water pump, hoses, etc). After installation, the system held 15 psi overnight, and I have never had a leak... not one a drop.

Ok cool, I'll be getting into it tomorrow. I'll give you a call again soon to catch up. Sadly I can't come to the gathering on the 15th as its the same day as my wife's graduation.

I also will likely be talking to Robert on the phone tomorrow if I run into any problems. We went under a few cars today at the shop so he could give me a run down on a few things. I love being so close to DMCFL Robert and Tony are totally rad, it feels good knowing that if I get in over my head I can have them fix my mess ;)

[Parzival]

Ok, so I decided to do the Steering column bushing today instead of the remaining cooling system since the car is cooling fine at the moment. This was a tough job, but we got through it, and the steering is no free of the clunky loose steering column.

Took the whole steering column out. Man what a pain
http://i67.tinypic.com/23if8y0.jpg

All back in and steering smoothly!
http://i63.tinypic.com/2ecdrmd.jpg

P.S.
also got the center headliner in too, still gotta do the doors.

[DMC-81]

Looking good! Also congrats on your wife's graduation.

There is a technique where you disconnect and slide the inner column back (retract) and then move the column slightly to the side just enough to replace the bushing, but if the inner column is stiff or hard to move, then removing it completely works better, plus you have more room in which to work. I think that's the more common technique anyway.

[Parzival]

Looking good! Also congrats on your wife's graduation.

There is a technique where you disconnect and slide the inner column back (retract) and then move the column slightly to the side just enough to replace the bushing, but if the inner column is stiff or hard to move, then removing it completely works better, plus you have more room in which to work. I think that's the more common technique anyway.

Yeah, there was just no way. We tried and tried. At the end it just had to come out.

[leepoffaith]

Wow, you have been busy!! I might ask you for some tips regarding that steering column bushing once I get around to replacing that. I think mine is basically non-existent at the moment. Regarding your fuel gauge being all over the board, I've noticed mine will vary a lot with the angle the car is at, but once on level ground it will read pretty accurately. Did your car sit for a while before you bought it? Maybe your tank and sending unit just need a good cleaning? Currently I'm troubleshooting some cold idle issues, but I think I'm close to solving them! I have learned more about the KJet fuel injection system over the past two weeks then I ever thought I'd know. I can see that you are enjoying working on your new car just as much as I am enjoying working on mine. I"m looking forward to keeping up with your progress. The members on this forum are great resources and I've had two of them in particular help me a lot with troubleshooting and one has even volunteered to assist me change out my transmission seals, rear main seal and clutch kit!

[David T]

New owners tend to have a lot of enthusiasm and willingness to get a lot done. Unfortunately it also takes persistence because there is always more work than expected and it is always harder than it first seems. The worst thing that can happen is when there is not enough money budgeted and everything stops. That is why I recommend dong the mechanical first so you can at least drive the car and if necessary follow up with the cosmetic when circumstances allow. In this case the owner is following a sensible plan. Besides all of the work there is a steep learning curve but that is where we all help with this forum.

[Parzival]

Wow, you have been busy!!

Yeah, I've put two full days in on her now, and still have to do the rest of the cooling system. Its all preventative at this stage as she runs great, even with the small exhaust leak.
With the steering column bushing, Id say have some extra hands, and take the knee panels out. I didn't show it in my photos, but I took those out as well to keep them from getting torn while wrestling the steering column back in. To get the bushing in, I found this method worked the easiest. Using a nut and bolt, a few washers, and a large socket (just larger then the back of the bushing) placed through the bushing and firewall. Then tighten the nut and bolt to squeeze in the bushing though. then line your column up with the splines and out her back toghether (getting the splines to go back in on the universal joint and column was not easy. You gotta work a tool in there to spread the joint. I was sweating at first, but it all eventually went back toghether.

I'm trying to stick to mechanical necessities and do cosmetic and comfort stuff later. But I'm also re covering my headliners since I can do that after dark. I'm half done with them now, and they are looking great. I put in new window switches also as The AC is a few steps away from being overhauled. Luckily that really concludes my interior anyway as It looks really good other then the headliner.

Have you started a thread for your car? I'd like to follow your progress as well.

[Parzival]

New owners tend to have a lot of enthusiasm and willingness to get a lot done. Unfortunately it also takes persistence because there is always more work than expected and it is always harder than it first seems. The worst thing that can happen is when there is not enough money budgeted and everything stops. That is why I recommend dong the mechanical first so you can at least drive the car and if necessary follow up with the cosmetic when circumstances allow. In this case the owner is following a sensible plan. Besides all of the work there is a steep learning curve but that is where we all help with this forum.

Thanks David. Persistence is key... and budget. It took me two and half years to build my R2 unit. I remember having total tunnel vision on that project, and feel that same way about the Delorean now. It’s nice to have a project to care about. Especially when you don’t have kids. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181208/f4076922033007ada921901d8c96309d.jpg
This is actually my 2nd Delorean. I had one 14 years ago, but I never really did much work on that one. And my new one is much nicer. I do think that the car already being in good cosmetic shape will inspires me to keep up on the mechanical stuff to keep the car out on the road.
Right now my strategy is to do all the stuff I’m comfortable doing my self. Once that’s done, DMCFL will be taking over, for all the rest. So even if I loose steam they’ll be there to pick up where I leave off.


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[Parzival]

So to bridge the gap in mechanical work. I've been working on the headliner.
I replaced the center front and center rear with new fiberglass pieces from DMCH witch came pre covered. But the door pieces look ok, so I re covered those my self.
Here they are after a few rounds of fiberglass primer and sanding. I apply several colors of primer so that when I sand I spot the high spots. Here you can see several layers
http://i66.tinypic.com/1z1yzqg.jpg

New primer.
Still more sanding to go.
http://i64.tinypic.com/2a6mfsh.jpg

and finally I got them wrapped.
http://i68.tinypic.com/2a4ntw8.jpg

I wish I had more time to take more photos of the process, but my hands were covered in fiberglass most the time.
I also added all new fur trees before I started the fiberglass.
In all it would have probably been worth the cost of just buying these along with the centers, but I had most of the materials to do this on hand. and I figure do as much my self as possible. I would have done the centers too but the backings on those were not in as good of shape.

[David T]

When you are on a budget and have a lot of time and energy the temptation is to reuse, repair and rebuild as much as you can. While it can be done and is rewarding it doesn't always make sense. Stripping, cleaning and repairing the backers is one example. Of course now you forever have the bragging rights that go along with all of the fiberglass resin you will have on your hands for a long time!

[DMC-81]

They look great! Nice work.

[Parzival]

When you are on a budget and have a lot of time and energy the temptation is to reuse, repair and rebuild as much as you can. While it can be done and is rewarding it doesn't always make sense. Stripping, cleaning and repairing the backers is one example. Of course now you forever have the bragging rights that go along with all of the fiberglass resin you will have on your hands for a long time!

Very true,
I consider it a symbolic gesture, It can feel soulless to just wright a check. I want to get my hands dirty, and really make it feel like MY car. Not just something I shelled out a load of cash for. Since I don't have as much mechanical know-how as some others here, It's nice to find little jobs like this that can help me get my hands dirty.
also I did have some extra incentive to get the headliner done fast as my wife wants me to drive her to her college graduation this Saturday. (gotta make the wife happy to keep the hobby in good standing ;)

[Parzival]

They look great! Nice work.

They're not 100% perfect, but like David said, I got the bragging rights ;)

[Jonathan]

They're not 100% perfect, but like David said, I got the bragging rights ;)

Well, they look pretty darn good to me even if they aren't perfect.

Besides, perfect is overrated on these cars. Stopping somewhere just short of 100% perfect and in that "good enough" range is much better for your sanity. And wallet, too.

[Michael]

When you are on a budget and have a lot of time and energy the temptation is to reuse, repair and rebuild as much as you can. While it can be done and is rewarding it doesn't always make sense. Stripping, cleaning and repairing the backers is one example. Of course now you forever have the bragging rights that go along with all of the fiberglass resin you will have on your hands for a long time!
That's about as close to a compliment as you will get from him.

[Parzival]

Well, they look pretty darn good to me even if they aren't perfect.

Besides, perfect is overrated on these cars. Stopping somewhere just short of 100% perfect and in that "good enough" range is much better for your sanity. And wallet, too.

You're right. Perfection is a few steps away, and always will be. I prefer to just do my best, and in some cases I'm happy with the result. This is one of those cases.

P.S. thanks you to those who continue to drop into this thread. The insight is appreciated! I haven't got stuck yet, or have I taken something apart I couldn't get back together yet, however I imagine that I will at some point, and I'll be here looking for help ;)
Thanks for being around

[Parzival]

That's about as close to a compliment as you will get from him.

I'll take it! I need all I can get :)

[Michael]

I'll take it! I need all I can get :)

Well to me they look 100% perfect.

[Parzival]

Well to me they look 100% perfect.

Thanks! I’ll try to keep up the good work. The more Deloreans we all take care of now the more there will be left in the future!


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[Parzival]

Car did great escorting my wife to her graduation! No problems to report, and the world now has its newest chemical engineer! Go FIT panthers!
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181216/1db6778508d8786609081bf1f907c7f9.jpg


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[Parzival]

ok guys, next step.
As I've stated prior I have a small exhaust leak. It appears at the rear most gasket on the passenger side of the block.
My exhaust manifolds look pretty corroded, and I'm looking at options. I dont see stock exhaust manifolds for sale anywhere. All I seem to see are performance exhausts for sale (stainless) the kit is about 2 grand. My question is this, If I'm gonna get into it anyway, should I just upgrade to the stainless exhaust? I'm not on the hunt for horsepower, my aim is really to just make the car as reliable as can it can be. What are my options? Is this exhaust worth it, or should I look for something else? I'm not looking for bandaids, I prefer good long lasting solutions.

[jackb]

Both sides manifolds are available from DMC...
Part numbers 102257 and 102258.
$409 each though. Not cheap.

Either post a WTB ad looking for someone unloading ther OE exhaust after upgrading, or upgrade yourself. I’ve had DPI’s exhaust since 2011 and have been very happy with it.

[Parzival]

Both sides manifolds are available from DMC...
Part numbers 102257 and 102258.
$409 each though. Not cheap.

Either post a WTB ad looking for someone unloading ther OE exhaust after upgrading, or upgrade yourself. I’ve had DPI’s exhaust since 2011 and have been very happy with it.

Oh yeah, I see them now. Funny when you search exhaust on their site they don’t come up.
After looking at them they don’t look as corroded as I thought. Look like they just have a texture to them.
What’s the work on cleaning and or coating them. I think I could just use the ones I have. But I’ll definitely want to replace the studs and all that. Which appears to be the hardest part as they are likely to break off.
Do you know of a good guid to read up on before getting neck deep into it?


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[David T]

If you just want to fix the exhaust leak the exhaust manifolds can be cleaned up. First they must be checked for flatness and if necessary ground flat or the new gaskets will just blowout again. Then you can coat them with high temperature coatings so they will look good. Check out Eastwood.com for coatings for exhaust manifolds. You will need the gaskets of course, but you will also probably need studs and nuts. You may even have to drill out broken studs. The vendors sell kits of studs and nuts. Hard to find otherwise, they are an unusual metric size. PJ Grady has a nice set but it is pricey. Congratulations on graduation. Getting the headers is an expensive choice and it won't get you much improvement in HP all by itself. You will have to spend a LOT more to get further improvement.

[Parzival]

If you just want to fix the exhaust leak the exhaust manifolds can be cleaned up. First they must be checked for flatness and if necessary ground flat or the new gaskets will just blowout again. Then you can coat them with high temperature coatings so they will look good. Check out Eastwood.com for coatings for exhaust manifolds. You will need the gaskets of course, but you will also probably need studs and nuts. You may even have to drill out broken studs. The vendors sell kits of studs and nuts. Hard to find otherwise, they are an unusual metric size. PJ Grady has a nice set but it is pricey. Congratulations on graduation. Getting the headers is an expensive choice and it won't get you much improvement in HP all by itself. You will have to spend a LOT more to get further improvement.

Thank you. I think after looking at them I’d like to clean them up and coat them with something. I see the kits with studs and gaskets. I’m not excited about the idea of getting those old studs out, but it’s the only way unless I decide to just pay DMCFL to do it. I love those guys, but the more I do myself the more it feels like MY car. I’ll be sleeping on it a few nights before I decide. And of course all input is appreciated here!
I still have to original trailing arm bolts too, that will be something I need to address as well.


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[DMC-81]

Thank you. I think after looking at them I’d like to clean them up and coat them with something. I see the kits with studs and gaskets. I’m not excited about the idea of getting those old studs out, but it’s the only way unless I decide to just pay DMCFL to do it. I love those guys, but the more I do myself the more it feels like MY car. I’ll be sleeping on it a few nights before I decide. And of course all input is appreciated here!
I still have to original trailing arm bolts too, that will be something I need to address as well.


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Hi Austin,

Restoring the original exhaust is fairly straightforward. As you mentioned, the thing that needs careful attention is the 7mm studs. Here's a thread on my experience:

http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?14704-Refurbishing-stock-exhaust

Hopefully it will help. Replacing the gaskets was one thing that noticeably improved the car. Good luck and let me know if you have any questions. I have the stud extractor that you can borrow as well, and plenty of the high temp manifold gray paint left over that you can use as well if you want.

[David T]

I encourage owners to do as much of their own work as they feel comfortable with. If you do decide to tackle the exhaust work an indispensable tool is an Oxy-Acetalyne torch. Not only must you have it you must be able to use it safely. Doing this type of work without one risks breaking all of the studs and causing a ton of extra work. if you don't have one or don't feel comfortable using it, this might be a good job to outsource to DMC.

[Parzival]

I encourage owners to do as much of their own work as they feel comfortable with. If you do decide to tackle the exhaust work an indispensable tool is an Oxy-Acetalyne torch. Not only must you have it you must be able to use it safely. Doing this type of work without one risks breaking all of the studs and causing a ton of extra work. if you don't have one or don't feel comfortable using it, this might be a good job to outsource to DMC.

I think thats good advice!
After looking into all my options, and speaking on the phone with dana a few times I've decided to have DMCFL do the exhaust. I'm going to finish the rest of the cooling system and then take the car over to them. Dana may even be able to come by when we're doing the cooling system which would be amazingly helpful as he's gotten into it before and can provide some guidance.

[Parzival]

Ok guys, I'm beat (just got done cleaning the garage and re organizing dozens of sockets and other tools.

in one go, I repeat "IN ONE GO!"

We replaced all the cooling hoses in the rear of the car. Cleaned the valley of death, and cleaned all electrical contacts around the engine. replaced injector lines and vacuum hoses, replaced thermostat. Cleaned everything else, and got it all back together and cranked back up.

First of all, and most importantly I must thank Dana AKA DMC-81 for doing this with me, amazing guy! He was there from the time we removed the first bolt until it was all back together. I can't imagine anyone dedicating this much time to helping someone out! Amazing!

There is defiantly some fine tuning left to do, (air probably still needs to all be worked out of the system, watching the injector lines closely to make sure non are weeping) etc etc.

The car I believe is idling a tiny bit rougher then before, and doesn't start quite as readily as it did before. Still on first key turn, but after a few turnovers. On a positive note when reving it, it sounds... smoother? I'm not sure, but I think its better in that department now. I had to wrestle with the pipe of agony for about 10 minutes, but eventually got it in. I also had to fuss with a small vacuum leak, that ended up being between the cold start valve and the idle speed motor (old hose, one of only a few that didn't get replaced) I had to put clamps on the hose between them to solve it, even though that hose usually goes without clamps. I'm gonna get a new piece of hose to go there, and see if I can eliminate the clamps.

I've got lots of photos and all that from our adventure I will post, but tonight I'm just too tired!
next step is sorting the exhaust leak.

[David T]

After a job like that you probably need a slight tweak of the mixture screw. If you did the job well you should have less vacuum leakage and that will necessitate a slight adjustment. You can also try a can of Techron to clean up the injectors. If that doesn't smooth it out you should have the injectors cleaned and tested. That is a BIG job to do all in one day but on the bright side, sounds like you didn't break any bolts!!!!!!

[Parzival]

After a job like that you probably need a slight tweak of the mixture screw. If you did the job well you should have less vacuum leakage and that will necessitate a slight adjustment. You can also try a can of Techron to clean up the injectors. If that doesn't smooth it out you should have the injectors cleaned and tested. That is a BIG job to do all in one day but on the bright side, sounds like you didn't break any bolts!!!!!!

Nope, didn't break any bolts in fact they all came out without issue. I think I will put some injector cleaner through there, and put some miles on. We were careful when cleaning the ports not to nock any loos carbon into the engine, but I'm sure some got in. I'll be checking the ground tomorrow for coolant, we used the correct torque value on all the clamps in the valley (thanks again to dana) So I'm pretty confident that we wont see any problems.
As far as my mixture adjustment. The factory cap/seal is still on there, so unless it's necessary I hope to keep from messing with it. (it may be necessary)

She's idling at a steady RPM, just seems like the engine shakes a little more now. Could be everything settling back in? It might be my imagination, but it also seems the sound of the car is lower pitched over all, I've driven less then 25 miles since first starting her back up so who knows? I'm still paranoid there is air in the cooling system, even tho I can't get anything but coolant to come out of the bleed screw on top of the thermostat.

it still may be tough to judge by sound though, because of the sound the exhaust leak makes.

[David T]

You should also loosen the small hose on the top right side of the rad to let air out. Get a dwell meter on the motor and check the duty cycle. Make sure you have eliminated ALL vacuum leaks and the injectors are all working correctly first.

[Parzival]

You should also loosen the small hose on the top right side of the rad to let air out. Get a dwell meter on the motor and check the duty cycle. Make sure you have eliminated ALL vacuum leaks and the injectors are all working correctly first.

I did loosen the top hose on the radiator today too, no air, just got wet, lol

[Riley88]

Thanks!
New battery already,
Oil and filter changed, and full coolant flush done by DMCMW right be for car shipped to me.
All lights are working.
So far she starts right up and idles well, shifting smoothly in all 5 gears,
Im not sure about all the recalls, The car has 25,000 miles on her so most of her is original (like I said, even those fans after being wiped down looked better then some parts on my 2016 tacoma), I think mike at DMCMW said the fuel system was done in 2008. Tires are decent.
Frame is solid as a rock.

I'll keep posting in this thread as I continue to burn down my financial future for this beauty ;)
Keep the insights coming, I greatly appreciate the knowledge from the members here.

Id update most of your lighting to LED and check out daves rpm relay from here on the forum.

[DMC-81]

Hi Austin, it was a pleasure helping you. We had a great team of people helping with this surgery. :)

After driving it some, if it still shakes a bit, one additional thing I thought of to check is the tightness of the seal for each of the 6 injectors. It may be wise to pull each one and check the cleanliness of the metal tube that they sit in. Clean each one with carb cleaner and remove any corrosion. Just be careful not to drop anything in there.

The injectors are clean, and have new seals and clips, but I don't think we cleaned those tubes well enough like we cleaned the intake ports. That is also a source of vacuum leak.

Then, when reinserting the injectors, each one should have that "satisfying" positive, tight snap that Mike mentioned. Also check that each clip is tight. Remember we needed to tighten one of them.

It was nice to spend time with you and your friends to make your Delorean even better.

:wrenchin:

[Parzival]

Hi Austin, it was a pleasure helping you. We had a great team of people helping with this surgery. :)

After driving it some, if it still shakes a bit, one additional thing I thought of to check is the tightness of the seal for each of the 6 injectors. It may be wise to pull each one and check the cleanliness of the metal tube that they sit in. Clean each one with carb cleaner and remove any corrosion. Just be careful not to drop anything in there.

The injectors are clean, and have new seals and clips, but I don't think we cleaned those tubes well enough like we cleaned the intake ports. That is also a source of vacuum leak.

Then, when reinserting the injectors, each one should have that "satisfying" positive, tight snap that Mike mentioned. Also check that each clip is tight. Remember we needed to tighten one of them.

It was nice to spend time with you and your friends to make your Delorean even better.

:wrenchin:

Ok, I think I can work on the injector ports a bit.

Everyone instantly thought you were really cool. (it didn't hurt that you showed up in a delorean). I don't think we would have gotten half that far without you and your knowledge of the car. You saved out butts! can't wait until our next adventure. Perhaps I'll have to come help with your new exhaust! :)

[Jonathan]

Ok, I think I can work on the injector ports a bit.

Everyone instantly thought you were really cool. (it didn't hurt that you showed up in a delorean). I don't think we would have gotten half that far without you and your knowledge of the car. You saved out butts! can't wait until our next adventure. Perhaps I'll have to come help with your new exhaust! :)

Great job to both of you! Sounds like your car is coming along quite nicely. And quickly too.

If ever someone needed an example of the kinds of things DeLorean owners do for one another, this is it. Way to go, Dana. That kind of help goes a long way with a new owner and is pretty much priceless. Or considering the season and to quote Cousin Eddie, 'that's the gift that keeps on giving the whole year!' :)

[Parzival]

Great job to both of you! Sounds like your car is coming along quite nicely. And quickly too.

If ever someone needed an example of the kinds of things DeLorean owners do for one another, this is it. Way to go, Dana. That kind of help goes a long way with a new owner and is pretty much priceless. Or considering the season and to quote Cousin Eddie, 'that's the gift that keeps on giving the whole year!' :)
I'm telling you, Dana went WAY above and beyond on this one. It's really funny you quote Eddie here, because he was quoted 9 or 10 times throughout the day we did this project. Its like you were there!

[Parzival]

Ok, now that she's all back together we are running great! but I seem to have developed a cold start issue. First start after sitting for a while is rough, starts and dies, then start again with a little gas, and she putts to life, after 20 seconds she's running beautifully. If I stop at the gas station, run in for a few minutes, come back out starts up fine. but If I give it a few hours or especially over night, back to where we started.
Things I've looked at so far include connections to the cold start valve, frequency valve is making it's sounds while running.
Any ideas?
worst case I take here over to DMCFL and have them look over our work and make some adjustments, but I rather have it sorted first so I can just take her there for the exhaust.

[David T]

Verify the CSV system is operating correctly.

[Parzival]

Ok so a lot has been done since last posting.
The car starting issue seems to have worked it self out. Perhaps the lines were still holding some air? I tested the CSV, I put it in a bottle and fired the engine. It sprays like it should. The car starts especially quickly if I put the key in the on position wait a few seconds for the pump to prime and them fire it up.
That being said, it still take a few seconds and a few revs to get her to fully come to life, she kind of puts and stutter for the first few seconds on a cold start. I think I may have a vacuum leak somewhere and I'm not really sure how to find it or confirm it. I've also had one experience where I was sitting at a red light and she started to putter out, she didn't fully die as I started to give her a rev when I noticed it was starting to die. Then on acceleration she got a little jerky, not constant power. Then that went away, the jerky acceleration has presented itself a few times, but goes away. Any advice here would be greatly appreciated.

Since I'm kinda stuck on the engine work, I decided to install my Delorean go ball stud/door strut reinforcement plates. These were pretty easy to do, and I had to install my new rear headliner any way. So it was the perfect time to do it. These are great and I'm sure all our cars will eventually need this, just the fact of how much pressure has been on these parts for almost 40 years, and stress and fatigue of materials is unavoidable. They are bullet proof now and peace of mind is a good thing. They took a single afternoon to install. (also replaced my rear speakers at the same time. Heat gun method to retain the vinyl, no cutting)

I also soldered in the new ribbon connector into my craig radio, wired in the aux port, and replaced the tape deck belt, and rebuilt my AC mode switch (even tho I don't yet have AC in my car, I did this since I had the radio out anyway.

after all this I decided to install my new inner door seal on the passenger side. This has been a bit of problem. The new door seal has not gone smoothly.
I did all the recommended steps. Used the rubber mallet to make sure the seal is fully seated. I applied lots of silicon lube, left it for a week shut. Then when that didn't really do much, I read that there was something called gummy Pflege, I cleaned all the silicone off, and used the Pflede. It helped some, but I have to SLAM the door, its getting easier but my wife still cant close the door from inside the car, and its really shouldn't have to be slammed like this. Any advice here? Much appreciated.

My plans to have DMCFL redo the exhaust are still in effect, I really would like to have the possible vacuum leak sorted before I do if possible, and this door thing is kinda bumming me out too.
Anyway, thats where I'm currently at.
Thanks in advance with any advice or theories!

[Parzival]

Been getting along great since my last post, put another 1000 miles on the car.
We've had the stock exhaust overhauled at DMC FL, and it made a huge difference in the over all experience of the car. Today I dropper her off again at DMC FL for a AC overhaul. If all goes well this will be the first time I'll be able to experience the car with air conditioning.
Im getting a new compressor, new accumulator, new pressure switch, and oriface tube. The system has never been converted from r12, and is completely stock, DMCFL is converting it to redtek.
This is Florida, so yeah,... I'm looking forward to this one guys!

[DMC-81]

Been getting along great since my last post, put another 1000 miles on the car.
We've had the stock exhaust overhauled at DMC FL, and it made a huge difference in the over all experience of the car. Today I dropper her off again at DMC FL for a AC overhaul. If all goes well this will be the first time I'll be able to experience the car with air conditioning.
Im getting a new compressor, new accumulator, new pressure switch, and oriface tube. The system has never been converted from r12, and is completely stock, DMCFL is converting it to redtek.
This is Florida, so yeah,... I'm looking forward to this one guys!

Nice! :thumbup: