Working inside the doors, questions and explanations

[Jonathan]

I'm digging into some winter work and I've started inside my driver's side door.

I have a few different things to do in there including installation of the replacement door lock solenoids to actuators kit (from Toby), installing a new moisture barrier, replacing a couple missing screws along the window bracket and redoing the clip holding the door lock cylinder in place from the inside.

While I was taking things apart, I noticed two different yellow wires that aren't connected to anything. They both end in single plastic cylindrical quick connectors, with the one near the rear having two of these yellow (and white striped) wires together in the same connector, while the other one is a single yellow (and white striped) wire tucked down in the lower front corner by the window motor.

I did a screen grab from the door video Stephen produced a while back because it shows clearly one of these yellow wires.

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Anyone know what the story is here? What was it intended for and why isn't it plugged into something?

I see also the connector that has a pair of different wires originally meant for a heated mirror, but these single yellow ones I hadn't come across before.

[David T]

They were intended for a heated rear view mirror which never happened.

[Jonathan]

They were intended for a heated rear view mirror which never happened.

The yellow wires too? I thought the heated mirror wiring was just that dual connector?

[BABIS]

The yellow wires too? I thought the heated mirror wiring was just that dual connector?

the yellow/white wire has two "1 pin" connector inside each door, one is near the solenoid connector (as you pointed out) and one is hidden near the window motor. these yellow wires end in the door connectors inside the roof box, there aren't wires on the "car side" connectors. the 2 pin connector with green/white and black wires is the mirror heater connector (as intended by the factory)..

[Jonathan]

the yellow/white wire has two "1 pin" connector inside each door, one is near the solenoid connector (as you pointed out) and one is hidden near the window motor. these yellow wires end in the door connectors inside the roof box, there aren't wires on the "car side" connectors. the 2 pin connector with green/white and black wires is the mirror heater connector (as intended by the factory)..

Thanks for the explanation!

[Jonathan]

Got further into my door work. Successfully installed the door lock actuators kit and they work pretty well.

As a bonus, I realized the window motor on the passenger side has been swapped out with a newer replacement, sometime before I bought the car in 2007. Apparently I wasn't paying attention in the past when inside this door. Giddyup. Likely will swap out the driver's side one as that window is getting pretty slow and sporadic when putting it up. Damn things are pricey though!

I do have one question after having removed the interior trim on both doors at the same time. Where would this pretty looking "arm rest sub assembly" on the passenger side have come from when the one on the driver's side is a beat-up looking black painted one? I see replacements online, but only in the black painted variety.

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[Jonathan]

Does anyone know the history of production changes that would explain why one of my door armrests is a firm plastic material underneath and the other door is more like this fiberboard crap?

I've not had both doors apart at the same time before, and while looking at the pieces lying side by side, there's quite a few differences noticeble. Like maybe my car got a door changed on one side before leaving Dunmurry? The upper trim piece on that side has VIN 2332 written in black marker, yet my car is VIN 3937.

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[WHO1DMC]

Does anyone know the history of production changes that would explain why one of my door armrests is a firm plastic material underneath and the other door is more like this fiberboard crap?

I've not had both doors apart at the same time before, and while looking at the pieces lying side by side, there's quite a few differences noticeble. Like maybe my car got a door changed on one side before leaving Dunmurry? The upper trim piece on that side has VIN 2332 written in black marker, yet my car is VIN 3937.

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Vin 3500 is the other way around or reverse of what in your photo.

[Jonathan]

Vin 3500 is the other way around or reverse of what in your photo.

So you have one plastic and one fiberboard too? Hmmmm, I hadn't even realized there were different types. Maybe getting one of each is more common than I thought?

[DMC-81]

Got further into my door work. Successfully installed the door lock actuators kit and they work pretty well.

As a bonus, I realized the window motor on the passenger side has been swapped out with a newer replacement, sometime before I bought the car in 2007. Apparently I wasn't paying attention in the past when inside this door. Giddyup. Likely will swap out the driver's side one as that window is getting pretty slow and sporadic when putting it up. Damn things are pricey though!

I do have one question after having removed the interior trim on both doors at the same time. Where would this pretty looking "arm rest sub assembly" on the passenger side have come from when the one on the driver's side is a beat-up looking black painted one? I see replacements online, but only in the black painted variety.

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Hi Jonathan. I think the yellow zinc plated one is original or an older replacement. I have the same plated ones on my car and they have not been replaced. Here’s a picture:
http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=39328&d=1453684717

[Jonathan]

The weather here just might be thinking about warming up soon, so I figured I better get my car put together again.

I still have the inside panels off of both doors. I put a fully charged battery back in and tried the driver's window. This is the original window motor/regulator assembly (the passenger side has a newer replacement and works fine). What I am seeing is that the driver's window is fairly slow going down, but is absolutely crawling trying to go back up. And it won't completely go all the way like it just has no oomph whatsoever right near the end.

I looked at the motor/regulator assembly while it is still installed in the door and it looks ok. Nothing obviously cracked or bent or unplugged. I did notice one of the screws that would likely hold it secure is not there. There are a couple others in that central spot holding it tight enough that it doesn't pivot or more anyway. I also unplugged the two wires connected to it, pulled them down to inspect (they look ok) and then clipped them back in. It's a tight spot to get your fingers in there, but they seem plugged in the whole way.

Still no change. Slow as molasses going up. Just like it has no 'battery' power left like a cordless drill would just slow down to nothing if that drill's battery was drained and needed charging. It sure seems electrical. I would guess it is something to do with whatever 'windings' are inside the assembly and not a mechanical gear issue like it's jammed somehow. I swapped the switch from the driver's side to the passenger and saw no change. I have the new LED backlit window switches so not really thinking they are the problem.

The two wires going to the assembly are blue/grey and red/grey. I don't see any other wires. Is there supposed to be a ground somehow for the window motors? Is it possible that a missing screw in the bracket is causing a grounding issue? Is that even how they work?

I am asking mostly because I'd like to ensure a new window motor is needed before ordering one. I can't really afford a whole lot more parts for the car if they're ones I didn't really need in the first place. $300 for the window motor is reasonable but not cheap. Not like buying windshield wipers or oil filters. Thanks.

[David T]

The motors do not require a separate ground. They work by applying a voltage and ground through the 2 wires and to reverse it the polarity is just flopped. That said it is possible the windings are burnt and some of the electric is draining out of the motor to ground. More likely the window is binding up but at this point the best advice would be to just upgrade the driver's side window regulator and motor to the newer style. Then figure out if the window is binding. Once you take the regulator out you can move the window by hand and see what the problem is. If you want to continue testing the regulator/motor just apply voltage and ground directly to the motor wires.