Binnacle rattling/bouncing and interior trim piece warped

[Boxbot]

My binnacle has always bounced/vibrated up and down on bumps. I recently had it apart to install new speedo cable and tightened the four bolts down under the dash and installed rubber washers behind the metal washers, but it's still doing it. I don't see any way to move the knee pads up, but I can force the binnacle and fiberglass up about a half-inch by hand to separate it from the knee pads. The fiberglass just seems to have some play in it - but no cracks that I see. I was going to stuff some sort of black material in there to keep it from doing this. Any thoughts?

Also, the black plastic trim around the inside of the binnacle is bowed in from the exterior on the top and bottom. I've tried Gorilla glue and clamps with no results. Anyone know how to reattach? The exterior of the binnacle is mint, so I didn't want to recover. Thanks.

[MikeWard]

The binnacle has 6 studs/nuts which hold it in place. If you only have 4 then it's possible they have been broken off by a previous owner.

[David T]

Refer to Service Bulletin ST-14-9/81 SA-0004 to "firm up" the instrument cluster housing. To fix the plastic you have to use a glue that won't loosen under heat. Try contact cement. You should heat up and straighten the plastic first.

[Boxbot]

Hmmmm...

Anyone have a photo of the underside so I can see what I'm missing? This isn't an early model/late model difference is it?

[MikeWard]

Here you go:
59689

Two studs on the binnacle, and then another 4 studs across the the three brackets, 106627, 106625 and 106623

[Delorean Industries]

Broken binnacle mount bracket studs? Not a problem! All brackets manufactured from 304 stainless with mounting hardware listed below.

https://deloreanindustries.com/3-binnacle-brkt-center-stainless/

https://deloreanindustries.com/2-binnacle-brkt-outer-left-stainless/

https://deloreanindustries.com/2-binnacle-brkt-outer-right-stainless/

https://deloreanindustries.com/5-binacle-center-bracket-stainless/

[Boxbot]

I am really not looking forward to getting back in that tight space upside down to see where the issue is. I don't remember seeing the bottom two more narrowly set screws on the removed binnacle. I hope the plastic wasn't snapped off.

I believe I have all TSBs in a binder and will look that info up.

Thanks, all.

[David T]

The best way to work underneath the dash is to remove the seat. 4 nuts and it lifts out. Then you can crawl in and lay on your back. Plenty of room. For lighting use a short piece of rope lighting.

[iflights]

The best way to work underneath the dash is to remove the seat. 4 nuts and it lifts out. Then you can crawl in and lay on your back. Plenty of room. For lighting use a short piece of rope lighting.

A little extra work to do this, but so highly recommended!!!!!

[eight8toy]

The binnacle is fairly easy to remove, don't need to take out the seat if you are nimble enough.

I had some squeaks in mine as well as the middle dash section and ended up using some of those soft furniture/chair leg pads and stuck them between the two surfaces. I found some grey colored ones that matched the dash and shoved them down out of sight which really helped quiet my cabin.

[Skinny]

Refer to Service Bulletin ST-14-9/81 SA-0004 to "firm up" the instrument cluster housing. To fix the plastic you have to use a glue that won't loosen under heat. Try contact cement. You should heat up and straighten the plastic first.

I just got done restoring my binnacle and am now gluing the plastic piece back in. Debating between using Barge All Purpose Cement or E6000. Which would be better for this?

[Ethan Rode]

I just got done restoring my binnacle and am now gluing the plastic piece back in. Debating between using Barge All Purpose Cement or E6000. Which would be better for this?

Barge would be fine, as long as it's the yellow can. Weldwood or headliner adhesive would work well too.

[Riley88]

its not a fun job working under the dash, taking the seat out is easy and makes it way easier. If you dont have all 6 bolts locked in, it can rattle and is more than likely your issue

[David T]

You should also check the steering bushing and all of the hardware for the steering column. In my experience I have found it is NEVER just one problem. Because other hands may have been there before you it is always a good idea to check and make sure all of the hardware is there and correctly installed. Oftentiimes others leave out hardware (nuts, bolts. washers, and spacers) or they don't put it back in the right spots or even use the wrong stuff (too long or short, wrong threads, etc). Use the manual to try to do it right and common sense. As for taking the seat out, not only does it give you a lot more room to work comfortably, it gives you the opportunity to clean things up and lubricate the seat track. Another thing you can check is the relay panel up above the steering column. Make sure it is fastened securely. Check under the carpet for any signs of brake fluid, the inertia switch is located on the footwell and has a white splotch, and finally there is a big hole in the firewall, make sure there is a piece of foam in it to seal it up. On one car I worked on the steering column would not stay adjusted in the up position. Someone had taken all of the tightening hardware apart and reassembled it in the wrong order so it would not hold things tight. On many cars the steering column won't adjust in and out. Because it hasn't been moved in so many years, it gets stuck. Loosen the locking nut and move it up and down and back and forth. Most like it all the way up and all the way in. (A lot of owners don't know it even adjusts!) Finally make sure the "cage" (the collapsible part of the steering column) is not cracked anywhere.

[Skinny]

Barge would be fine, as long as it's the yellow can. Weldwood or headliner adhesive would work well too.

The Barge is in a blue tube and not a yellow can. Not sure the difference? It does dry a yellowish color where the E6000 dries clear. I'll go with the Barge because it seems to have slightly more grip than the E6000 in this application. I would have thought it to be the other way around. I let both dry on test material for 24hrs.

Thanks for the advice!
I'm new to the forum and just got my Delorean a few months ago. Currently restoring vin 3990