Leaky coolant hose connection

[Citizen]

Regarding cooling system hoses, is there any kind of sealant that can be used to “assist” standard type hose clamps?

I have one location where a brand new hose coupled with the coolant pipe does not want to seal with just one hose clamp. The one clamp is tightened enough I think, without doing damage to the pipe. This is near the LF tire. I suspect it is because the tube may not be perfectly round, but I dunno...

59724

Thanks.

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[FABombjoy]

Hairspray.

I'd be surprised if the tube was out of round. It would be challenging to crush one of these tubes in a way that wasn't obvious, but you never know!

But I would pull the hard line and check it for mineral buildup and pinholes, especially pinholes as you'll have a helluva keeping a good seal around a pinhole.

You can get quite a scale behind the pipe beads which can prevent a proper seal. If I pull a hard line pipe I always remove scaling and shine up the end of the tube with sandpaper.
This isn't something in your standard internet how-to as most cars don't have 22 rubber hose sections and 9 coolant hard lines :D

[David T]

The build-up of mineral deposits is the additive package trying to stop a leak. Do not try to stop the leak by over-tightening the hose clamp, you just wind up stripping it out. The way to fix the leak is to remove the hose, remove the build-up, and inspect for pinholes. If you find pinholes just slide a longer hose over them. You really should not need anything to seal the hoses but to slide the hoses on it makes it easier if you dip the hose in anti-freeze to lubricate them first.

[Citizen]

Thanks guys. I was able to remove some sediment, adjust the hose position a bit and it quit leaking from that point.

But...it turns out I still had a different leak that I didn't see before. After sticking my head close in the wheel well, I saw that the pipe (PN-105989) was warn through, apparently by the steering linkage. It went far enough into the pipe to create a pin hole.

Here is what it looks like with the coolant coming out:
59750

And here is what it looks like with no pressure:
59751

Can an aluminum pipe like this be welded? Or am I looking at buying a new one?

T.

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[Bitsyncmaster]

That looks like a lot of spline showing on the steering shaft. Did something move that is causing that.

Yes, aluminum pipe can be TIG welded.

[Citizen]

That looks like a lot of spline showing on the steering shaft. Did something move that is causing that.

Agreed, looks like a lot of spline showing. But nothing's changed that I know of. I am the only driver, and have had the car for some 13+ years, and know of nothing to cause a change in that area. Probably it has been rubbing for all that time, and maybe more, just has never been caught.

Might be a good idea for everyone to take a look at their steering linkages, and see if it is rubbing against the coolant pipe like this, next time they are under the car. I'd be curious to know if and how many others have experienced this. Could be an engineering flaw.


Yes, aluminum pipe can be TIG welded.

Great, I'll start a search for someone that can do a weld for me. When I get it fixed and back on the car, I'll try to adjust or twist it such that it has ample clearance from the steering linkage.

Thanks again!

Thomas

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[David T]

You aren't going to be able to weld it well because not only is it a thin pipe, where it wore through it is even thinner now. Either replace the pipe or use a piece of hose. That area is very crowded. Also common for the bolt in the steering to wear a hole in the A/C hose. One area that should be inspected regularly like the TAB's.

[FABombjoy]

Is that p/n 105988 ?

Probably easiest to buy a new one from DMCH. $31.60 isn't bad at all.

Or if you have a muffler or speed shop in town it would take all of 2 minutes to bend and bead roll some 1.25" aluminum tube.

[SS Spoiler]

Double check to see if the pinch bolt is actually
in the groove of the steering shaft. Having the
u-joint fall off and having no steering is no fun...I know

[Citizen]

You aren't going to be able to weld it well because not only is it a thin pipe, where it wore through it is even thinner now. Either replace the pipe or use a piece of hose. That area is very crowded. Also common for the bolt in the steering to wear a hole in the A/C hose. One area that should be inspected regularly like the TAB's.

I thought about a section of hose to cover the hole and a couple of clamps, but in the end I want a permanent fix, so I'll probably have to replace that section of pipe.



Is that p/n 105988 ?

Probably easiest to buy a new one from DMCH. $31.60 isn't bad at all.


Actually, it's p/n 105989, $52.75 from DMCH. Right now I can't get the old one out from under the car (can't seem to get the front end high enough off the ground with just my floor jacks, I don't have a car lift). May have to JB Weld the hole just so I can get it someplace to put it on a lift, then replace with the new part.



Double check to see if the pinch bolt is actually
in the groove of the steering shaft. Having the
u-joint fall off and having no steering is no fun...


Wow, that's scary! I'll definitely check that. Thanks.

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[DMC-81]

You aren't going to be able to weld it well because not only is it a thin pipe, where it wore through it is even thinner now. Either replace the pipe or use a piece of hose. That area is very crowded. Also common for the bolt in the steering to wear a hole in the A/C hose. One area that should be inspected regularly like the TAB's.

Thomas, you can perhaps try one of these Alumiweld brazing rods:


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AXYZ948Smbg

https://www.harborfreight.com/8-piece-low-temperature-aluminum-welding-rods-44810.html

You'll have to remove the pipe first though. There are other videos about people brazing holes/cracks in aluminum radiators.

[David T]

It is really tough welding old, dirty aluminum. It's worth trying but don't be disappointed if it doesn't work. That technique takes a lot of practice, too much heat and you wind up with a puddle of aluminum and there is a very narrow temperature range where you can weld it and where it just melts away from you and you don't get the cues you do from welding steel.

[DMC-81]

It is really tough welding old, dirty aluminum. It's worth trying but don't be disappointed if it doesn't work. That technique takes a lot of practice, too much heat and you wind up with a puddle of aluminum and there is a very narrow temperature range where you can weld it and where it just melts away from you and you don't get the cues you do from welding steel.

Yeah, but these rods are low temperature brazing type, so it is best to use the micro torch as shown in the video, rather than a full throttle full size torch. Start with a low flame and then work your way up until you get the rod to melt. It is a similar principle to soldering.

Definitely, as with most other things, it is best to first clean the area you want to repair.

I look at it this way: The pipe is already useless. A $15 trial repair may make it usable again, or worse case, you are out $15 and have experience in aluminum brazing.

I saw vendors way back promoting the product at a car show actually poking/melting holes in these thin aluminum cans and then brazing them shut. I was impressed.

[FABombjoy]

Actually, it's p/n 105989, $52.75 from DMCH. Right now I can't get the old one out from under the car (can't seem to get the front end high enough off the ground with just my floor jacks, I don't have a car lift). May have to JB Weld the hole just so I can get it someplace to put it on a lift, then replace with the new part
Ahh, yeah that one is a bit more of a pain.

I think you could cut that section out, clean up the insides/outsides of the pipes, and have a section TIG'd in place for less than a new pipe (plus shipping). I believe I still have some spare pieces of stock coolant pipe and could send you a chunk if needed.

[Citizen]

I think you could cut that section out, clean up the insides/outsides of the pipes, and have a section TIG'd in place for less than a new pipe (plus shipping). I believe I still have some spare pieces of stock coolant pipe and could send you a chunk if needed.

Thanks for that generous offer, I'll keep it in mind. Probably try the JB Weld idea first, just so I can at least get it to a shop. Either way (repair existing or replace with new), I have to be able to get it up on a lift.

T.

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[Bob635]

Can an aluminum pipe like this be welded? Or am I looking at buying a new one?

T.


Yes, the aluminum pipe can be welded. In fact, I have had a number of them welded together to eliminate all the little rubber hoses. I did this for the IronMan Delorean project.

Bob