LED Headlights

[lazabby]

I've toyed with the idea of getting LED headlights. I'd like to get ones where all four have low and high beams. Anyone do this and if so which ones did you get and what modifications did you have to do?

[mr_maxime]

I did with some demon eyes ones. several pictures in the thread http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?15650-Headlight-Bracket-Availability

[DeLorean03]

Here you go:

Glass casings (order 2 pairs): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07F31V2CD/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Hikari LED Headlights (order 2 pairs): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GKKJ9M4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Wiring Harnesses (Nearly plug and play): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07HNVJML9/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

For the low beams, it is completely plug and play. Absolutely zero modifications needed. For the high beams, we took the wiring harness bought off of Amazon, took the wire responsible for turning on the low beams, spliced it with the wire responsible for activating the high beams, and then introduced the modified Amazon wiring harness to the car's wiring harness (ZERO modifications done to the car's original wiring harness). That way, when the high beams are activated, the LEDs that were unused in the glass casing for the high beams were activated as well! Why let the "low beam " LEDs within the high beam glass casing go to waste?

[Lukas]

Another option here

http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?16947-Front-end-lighting-mods

[Timeless]

Another option here

http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?16947-Front-end-lighting-mods
I like your headlights and they provide the all 4 low/high the OP is looking for.

[mr_maxime]

I missed the part where they wanted all 4 with hi/lo. Mine are fully sealed though. I had semi-sealed before but that allows moisture to get in. I did still have to modify the bucket with the semi sealed ones.

[Mark D]

I've been seeing a lot of these Fire Tech lights lately on trucks where I work (fire truck OEM).

https://www.hivizleds.com/product/4x6-led-headlight

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=59906&d=1556650263

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=59908&d=1556650282

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=59907&d=1556650273

We get a lot of customers who spec the latest and greatest LED components...since fire trucks still have pretty traditional styling that means headlights that fit a standard 4x6 rectangular or 7 inch round housing.



I kinda like the halo design on the Fire Tech lights, but another popular option are these made by JW Speaker

https://www.jwspeaker.com/products/heated-4x6-led-headlights-model-8800-evolution-2/

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=26208&d=1396020901

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=26213&d=1396021080


Some additional photos here in an album I created:
http://dmctalk.org/album.php?albumid=237


As far as some of the other options go, for the sake of everyone else on the road I would not recommend installing LED replacement bulbs in a standard halogen housing designed for an H4 or H7 bulb. Those housings are designed for halogens and the beam pattern combined with LED's will produce a lot of glare into oncoming traffic. Housings that are specifically designed for LED's usually have a projector type housing with a more defined cutoff to prevent blinding everyone else around you.

[Timeless]

Mark I mentioned these in another thread and I think we were talking about the fire truck industry a while back. I've driven at night with both the Firetech and JW units. From my perspective the JW provide greater amount of light on the road. Firetech has a nice pattern but they seem to not put as much light down. Firetech does have a lifetime warranty and are about 1/2 the cost of the JW.

I agree about LED bulbs in halogen housings. I think the best bet is a complete LED housing like the Firetech or something like these:
59909

[Mark D]

Mark I mentioned these in another thread and I think we were talking about the fire truck industry a while back. I've driven at night with both the Firetech and JW units. From my perspective the JW provide greater amount of light on the road. Firetech has a nice pattern but they seem to not put as much light down. Firetech does have a lifetime warranty and are about 1/2 the cost of the JW.

I agree about LED bulbs in halogen housings. I think the best bet is a complete LED housing like the Firetech or something like these:
59909

That's great feedback on the Firetech vs JW speaker lights. I've driven with the JW lights and they are pretty awesome. I haven't had a chance to drive a truck yet with the Firetech lights but the website talks a lot about the beam pattern and filling in light between the bumper and the bottom of the cutoff for the low beam. It's almost like having an integrated fog beam pattern. The price of the JW speaker lights is kind of crazy, but if I wanted the best output it sounds like those are currently the way to go.

The other lights from Lukas's thread looked like a good option too. I'm not sure if I care for the black housing, but it looks like they are available in chrome as well. I think these are similar:

https://www.amazon.com/Rectangular-Headlights-Replacement-Headlamps-Peterbilt/dp/B07PWBP896/ref=sr_1_fkmrnull_6?keywords=BICYACO+4x6&qid=1556651829&s=automotive&sr=1-6-fkmrnull

For me personally it's a little tough to get over the cosmetic differences between the stock look of the sealed beams vs LED's since it changes the "face" of the car so much. If I was doing any amount of night driving in my car I'd more seriously consider an LED swap. For as little as I drive at night in the DeLorean though the Sylvania Silverstar sealed beams have been good enough.

[Timeless]

Yea the cosmetic aspect is something to think about. The TruckLite headlights keep somewhat of a standard sealed beam look and may even blend with the black grille. Too bad there isnt a chrome/lighter color housing offered at this time.

http://www.truck-lite.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?urlRequestType=Base&catalogId=10002&categoryId=13091&productId=51299&errorViewName=ProductDisplayErrorView&urlLangId=&langId=-1&top_category=15554&parent_category_rn=13089&storeId=10001

[Timeless]

Just found these: https://www.maxxima.com/products/product_detail/926/Vionic-4-X-6-Head-Lamp-Low-Beam-Only-MaxxHeat-Lens.html

[Mark D]

Yea the cosmetic aspect is something to think about. The TruckLite headlights keep somewhat of a standard sealed beam look and may even blend with the black grille. Too bad there isnt a chrome/lighter color housing offered at this time.

http://www.truck-lite.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?urlRequestType=Base&catalogId=10002&categoryId=13091&productId=51299&errorViewName=ProductDisplayErrorView&urlLangId=&langId=-1&top_category=15554&parent_category_rn=13089&storeId=10001

I've seen those black Truck-lites on a few of our trucks and they have a really sinister look to them. This one truck was a two-tone cranberry red w/ black and had all the typical chrome parts blacked out coated in line-x (grille, bumper, fender arches, etc) and it was a really unique looking truck.

Not sure how these lights would look on a DeLorean, but it would probably fit in with something like this: (pretty sure this is a photoshop, but you get what I mean)
http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=42022&d=1463509084

[Lukas]

So there's a lot of LED options around now. One thing to watch out for is the depth of the housing, as some of the LED headlights are bulky and won't fit the original buckets without cutting holes.

The set I have aren't super expensive, and just fit into the buckets. I don't do a lot of night driving, but I've had them for over a year and the are still putting out just as much light and have not fogged up.

Unfortunately the projector LEDs are never going to look stock! But if you can avoid modifications to the wiring harness or buckets, they're easy enough to remove if you want to go back to stock.

[Chris 16409]

One thing to keep in mind is the DeLorean wiring is for standard H4656 sealed beams. Most of the new LED headlight bulbs are of the H4 variety and require a pin swap on the wiring harness. My buddy Dave just installed some H4 LED bulbs without doing the wiring mod, and found out the high beam "element" on the bulb was active on the low beam setting. When he switch the "high beams" on, the low beam "element" on the LED turned on. I found this graphic that documents the wiring mod.

60097

[Bitsyncmaster]

One thing to keep in mind is the DeLorean wiring is for standard H4656 sealed beams. Most of the new LED headlight bulbs are of the H4 variety and require a pin swap on the wiring harness. My buddy Dave just installed some H4 LED bulbs without doing the wiring mod, and found out the high beam "element" on the bulb was active on the low beam setting. When he switch the "high beams" on, the low beam "element" on the LED turned on. I found this graphic that documents the wiring mod.

60097

I just looked at my passenger side "low beam" socket and the black ground wire is not wired in the "center" pin like it shows in your diagram. I wonder if someone changed mine but I've been running silver stars as it's wired.

I just bought some H4 LEDs and housings. So with low beams I guess the outer bulbs use one element and the inner high beam bulbs are off. Then with high beams the outer bulb switches to the other element and the inner bulb also turns on.

So if I put in dual high low LEDs are you using all 8 LEDs on high beam and low beams using 4 LEDs?

[mr_maxime]

I just looked at my passenger side "low beam" socket and the black ground wire is not wired in the "center" pin like it shows in your diagram. I wonder if someone changed mine but I've been running silver stars as it's wired.

I just bought some H4 LEDs and housings. So with low beams I guess the outer bulbs use one element and the inner high beam bulbs are off. Then with high beams the outer bulb switches to the other element and the inner bulb also turns on.

So if I put in dual high low LEDs are you using all 8 LEDs on high beam and low beams using 4 LEDs?

Now that i think about it, i also dont think my original wiring matched that diagram either. just test them before screwing them in.

[Bitsyncmaster]

Here is the back side of my socket which looks like every pin is wrong. My LEDs did not state which pins are which and I don't want to have the ground on the wrong pin. I may just change all the sockets anyway since the pins look pretty bad and I'm sure the plastic connector is pretty bridal.

[Bitsyncmaster]

I bought some inexpensive H4 LEDs

Spec.
Power 26 watt
DC 12-24 volt
6000 K

Oxilam DD-M2-H4-OUS

Low beam power
12.0 volts = 1.694 amp
12.5 volts = 1.620 amp
13.0 volts = 1.552 amp
13.5 volts = 1.490 amp
14.0 volts = 1.433 amp

High beam looks like the same current so it probably uses the same power supply in the unit. This has a fan on the rear but even with that fan you can not touch the aluminum fins because it really gets hot. So with that in mind, I would not recomend you run both high and low beams at the same time since it would really stress that power supply.

I ordered new sockets and pins and plan to take photos of the light shining on my garage door with one old bulb and one new LED so I can judge if these cheap LEDs are any good.

[Bitsyncmaster]

I tested my Silver star currents low beam.

12.0 volts = 2.512 amps
12.5 volts = 2.568 amps
13.0 volts = 2.618 amps
13.5 volts = 2.673 amps
14.0 volts = 2.723 amps

So the Silver Stars run 38 watts and my LEDs run 20 watts.

Note LEDs run a switching regulator so LED power it about 85% of input power due to the regulator inefficiency.

High beam (this powers both high and low beam elements) which are connected internally in the bulb.

14.0 volts = 4.857 amps.

[Bitsyncmaster]

So now I think some of the LEDs would be wired so both high and low beams are on at the same time when high beam is powered. I would think you need one that shows a high power rating to get that.

You also have a choice of fan or no fan. I think the fan units are a little smaller so some no fan units may need the bucket hole enlarged.

Most are color rated at 6000 K but some have 6500, 7000 or even higher. I think the higher numbers would look more blue.

[Timeless]

Most are color rated at 6000 K but some have 6500, 7000 or even higher. I think the higher numbers would look more blue.
They are. After 20 years of auto lighting experience I have seen the best balance of color and output at 5500-6000K. Anything past 6000K and output is less and more blue/purple.

[mr_maxime]

I know mine never really felt hot anymore. From my thread you can see that they are also way brighter than the hids which I had that were also brighter than stock.

[Bitsyncmaster]

I tested my Silver star currents low beam.

12.0 volts = 2.512 amps
12.5 volts = 2.568 amps
13.0 volts = 2.618 amps
13.5 volts = 2.673 amps
14.0 volts = 2.723 amps

So the Silver Stars run 38 watts and my LEDs run 20 watts.

Note LEDs run a switching regulator so LED power it about 85% of input power due to the regulator inefficiency.

High beam (this powers both high and low beam elements) which are connected internally in the bulb.

14.0 volts = 4.857 amps.

My mistake. I was using the same pin connections as the H4, so those currents were for the high beam. The low beam at 14.0 volts is 3.477 amps. So the low beam uses a higher power filament.

[Bitsyncmaster]

So now the way my car is wired in stock form the outer bulbs run the high beam elements when low beam is selected. Maybe I'm confused. Can someone else check this for me? Now the high beam seems to run the way the H4 socket with both elements on.

[Bitsyncmaster]

I just plugged the Silver Star back into the car and measured the current flowing through the black ground wire. Engine running (my car charges at 14.6 volts) I get 5.04 amps on low beam and 3.80 amps on high beam. Voltage on the light terminals was 13.2 volts so the car wiring drops 1.4 volts. Maybe I should rewire that front end with larger wire.

I bench tested that bulb wired like the car is wired and I get 4.71 amps and 3.37 amps at 13.2 volts. The slight error in currents from the car test must be my clamp on amp gauge error or voltage noise not in my bench test.

[Bitsyncmaster]

Well I wired the passenger side socket for the H4 LED. Note the ground wire looks about 14 AWG and the two light wires I think are the 19 AWG. The British wire is not the same size as US AWG, they go by stands of wire.

Just turning the lights on, light is defiantly more white than the Silver Star bulb. I will back the car out and get some comparison photos of the light shining on my garage door later this evening. The drivers side is still wired stock so low beam on that side still drives 5 amps (I think both high and low beams) when low beam is selected.

[Bitsyncmaster]

Here are two photos with the center two headlights taped over so they don't affect my high beam test. The photo with the two points of light is the low beam. The one with the pretty much same pattern is the high beam. So I think I can rotate the LED so the two points of light are the same height and I would have to adjust the aiming lower (is there no adjustment for height?)

I wonder if other LEDs have a better low beam pattern. I think the LEDs are brighter then the Silver Star bulbs but it may just be the whiter light from the LEDs.

[Bitsyncmaster]

Here is a photo with the first LED installed in the passenger side inner light. Drivers side still has the Silver Star. Note the Silver star draws 4.7 amps at 13.2 volts (about three times the LED). Outer bulbs taped over.

One bad thing with these new housings is the "standoff" is a little to short at 0.84" where as the Silver Stars are 0.94" and the light surround does not clamp the housing tight. So I need to hot glue a spacer on each stand off or you will get a rattle of the bulb when driving. I've seen a few other stock looking housings so you may want to try those but these were the least expensive.

I'm thinking my LED is causing the aiming to be a little high because this LED is a little offset from center. I guess with the new LEDs when I get them will not be offset since the four sided LEDs look centered.

[DMC-81]

Here is a photo with the first LED installed in the passenger side inner light. Drivers side still has the Silver Star. Note the Silver star draws 4.7 amps at 13.2 volts (about three times the LED). Outer bulbs taped over.

One bad thing with these new housings is the "standoff" is a little to short at 0.84" where as the Silver Stars are 0.94" and the light surround does not clamp the housing tight. So I need to hot glue a spacer on each stand off or you will get a rattle of the bulb when driving. I've seen a few other stock looking housings so you may want to try those but these were the least expensive.

I'm thinking my LED is causing the aiming to be a little high because this LED is a little offset from center. I guess with the new LEDs when I get them will not be offset since the four sided LEDs look centered.

That's a significantly lower amp draw. Cool. Speaking of cool, I wonder what the thermal (heat) difference is around/above the housings, i.e. would the LED version be more or less likely to cause heat deformation on the fascias?

[David T]

That's a significantly lower amp draw. Cool. Speaking of cool, I wonder what the thermal (heat) difference is around/above the housings, i.e. would the LED version be more or less likely to cause heat deformation on the fascias?

Just my guess but the problems with the front facia has nothing to do with any heat from the headlamps, rather, the main problem is from the sun. I believe that is what cause the deformation and the fading of the paint. As for current draw, anything you do that reduces the current draw can only help the headlight switch last longer. Especially for the running lights.

[Bitsyncmaster]

That's a significantly lower amp draw. Cool. Speaking of cool, I wonder what the thermal (heat) difference is around/above the housings, i.e. would the LED version be more or less likely to cause heat deformation on the fascias?

Much cooler housings due to less current and a fan. Also the H4 housings have a metal back which would conduct more heat from the "bulb".

I wonder how much air moves in that closed headlight area.

[Bitsyncmaster]

It looks like my headlight buckets had a rubber bumper at the 4 mounting points where the headlight sits. But I only found one remaining but I saw the rest had glue remnants. So I can put some bumpers where those would be to take up the space needed for these new housings. I also see the drivers side connector is also wired the same in that the low beam uses the high power filament. So I guess the factory did this for a reason and did follow the standard connector wiring for those 4656 sealed beam headlights.

Also I see there is an adjustment for the aiming both height and left/right.

[Bitsyncmaster]

How do you remove the headlight brackets? I see one nut holding one side near the center which is accessible, is there a nut on the other side which I can't see?

[DMC-81]

It looks like my headlight buckets had a rubber bumper at the 4 mounting points where the headlight sits. But I only found one remaining but I saw the rest had glue remnants. So I can put some bumpers where those would be to take up the space needed for these new housings. I also see the drivers side connector is also wired the same in that the low beam uses the high power filament. So I guess the factory did this for a reason and did follow the standard connector wiring for those 4656 sealed beam headlights.

Also I see there is an adjustment for the aiming both height and left/right.

Yes, that's what I found too. some of the original ones were missing. I replaced all 4 (16 in total) when I refurbed the headlights with round felt bumpers


How do you remove the headlight brackets? I see one nut holding one side near the center which is accessible, is there a nut on the other side which I can't see?

There are two M6 (10mm socket) nuts on either side of the brackets.Here's a couple pictures of the area if they will help:

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=37734&d=1446418937

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=37424&d=1445395212

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=37802&d=1446686661

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=37799&d=1446686082

[Bitsyncmaster]

Thanks Dana for those photos. So I guess I can't get the brackets out with removing the front bumper.

By the way the drivers side connector connector has the black 28 strand wire (14 AWG according to Britishwiring.com). Each light pin has two wires crimped into the pin. One wire is 21 strand and other is 14 strand. Britishwiring.com says 14 strand is 18 AWG.

[Bitsyncmaster]

Looks like these felt pads will solve the shorter mounting on my housings.

[Bitsyncmaster]

Since I'm waiting on parts (LEDs, wire and connectors) I decided to pull the washer bottle so I could pull the front harness. Turns out the low beam has one pin with 16 AWG blue/red wire to feed the low beams and two pins each with a 16 AWG blue/white. One feeds the drivers side and the other feeds the passenger side.

I'm rewiring with 14 AWG red for the low beam and !4 AWG white for the high beam. I'm running each light with a separate 14 AWG wire to my frame ground. I had already put a ground buss bar before. The connector had two ground wires but I don't use those wired grounds on the front lights anymore. If you need to get power up front you now have those two ground wire running back to the relay compartment.

You really don't need to rewire since the LEDs use less current but I don't like to crimp two wires into one connector pin which was done in the stock harness.

[Bitsyncmaster]

Got the new LEDs today. Bench tested but can't put in the car yet since my harness is apart.

Note with these and the old LEDs current drops as it heats up so these currents are after running for 10 minuets.

High beam at 13.0 volts = 1.800 amps
High beam at 14.0 volts = 1.669 amps

Low beam at 13.0 volts = 1.120 amps
Low beam at 14.0 volts = 1.040 amps

So high beam is 23.4 watts and low beam is 14.6 watts. Now no spec sheet came with these bulbs but the advertisement was 20 watts and 40 watts. The old LEDs had a spec sheet which stated 25 watts and they tested at 20 watts. I wonder if all these power specs are a joke.

[Bitsyncmaster]

I forgot to mention that the 4 x 6 bulb housing did not heat up at all during my bench test. The rear fan cooled heat sink did heat up quite a bit but not as much as my first LED.

So I like the idea of LED units that have the driver electronics packaged in the wiring to the LED. That unit also had no heat produced in that unit so the electronics stays cool. I guess the current change is due to the LED chips heating up and their voltage changes which makes the power in current change.

[Maritime-elf]

By any chance did you take a picture of the wire splice? If you did I would be grateful to see it.


Here you go:

Glass casings (order 2 pairs): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07F31V2CD/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Hikari LED Headlights (order 2 pairs): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GKKJ9M4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Wiring Harnesses (Nearly plug and play): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07HNVJML9/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

For the low beams, it is completely plug and play. Absolutely zero modifications needed. For the high beams, we took the wiring harness bought off of Amazon, took the wire responsible for turning on the low beams, spliced it with the wire responsible for activating the high beams, and then introduced the modified Amazon wiring harness to the car's wiring harness (ZERO modifications done to the car's original wiring harness). That way, when the high beams are activated, the LEDs that were unused in the glass casing for the high beams were activated as well! Why let the "low beam " LEDs within the high beam glass casing go to waste?

[Bitsyncmaster]

Here are some photos of the 4 sided new LEDs on the driver's side inner light (High beam) and the old 2 sided LED on the passenger side inner light(High beam). As you can see a big difference in the pattern. The old LED is more of a point of light. I wonder how the new ones will work as the low beam lights as far as aiming them. I also wonder if the housing would have different patterns from a better manufacture housing.

I took different exposures to try to get the result in the photo.

Edit:
I just bench tested one of the 4 sided LEDs and it looks better aiming the one light on my wall in that there is a flat light cutoff in the pattern. Also the low beam does move that cutoff position lower than the high beam. Don't know how it does that. So maybe using my garage door or the two lights at the same time gave me a poor test.

[Bitsyncmaster]

So are these black plastic strips that go between the lights just to remove the chrome look of the headlight benzyl? I was thinking of painting my benzyls black.

[Bitsyncmaster]

I was busy with more inventory building so have not done much on the LED headlights. I don't think the 4 sided LED headlights are going to work as my low beams. They don't really produce a flat headlight pattern and don't really produce a center spot of light like ordinary headlights do.

I bought another brand of LED headlight. Not much of a part number marking on the box but I think it is:
AUKEE PSX24 in the H4 configuration.

Spec sheet:
Power 50 W I still think they spec the power of both headlights.
Lumens 10000 LM Again both headlights
Color 6000K
CSP chips
12 V - 24 V

I bench tested one on low beam. As with the first set of LEDs power seems almost the same with high or low beams. This unit has the electronics in a module in the wiring which is what I like since it will keep the LEDs cooler. As with the other LEDs the current drops as the LEDs heat up so current values are after 10 minuets of running. One thing different is the electronic driver gets very hot and the LEDs are running cooler then the first ones. I don't like the electronics running so hot when I know there can be better designed circuits that don't produce much heat.

12 volts current is 1.944 amps.
13 volts current is 1.782 amps.
14 volts current is 1.640 amps.

So one low beam draws around 23 watts.

[Timeless]

Similar experiences with LED replacement bulbs vs. LED headlight assemblies. Why I recommend complete units:

https://headlightrevolution.com/united-pacific-31396-4x6-led-low-beam-reflector-style-headlight/

https://www.iowa80.com/pd/6-x-4-low-beam-led-headlight/304619/?gclid=CjwKCAjw0tHoBRBhEiwAvP1GFRUF2GcLamnSVCUxx8Q fqe-JKHIgDSWm8bWGCLAjcpYF-QA0Oqcu9xoCNp0QAvD_BwE

[Bitsyncmaster]

Similar experiences with LED replacement bulbs vs. LED headlight assemblies. Why I recommend complete units:

https://headlightrevolution.com/united-pacific-31396-4x6-led-low-beam-reflector-style-headlight/

https://www.iowa80.com/pd/6-x-4-low-beam-led-headlight/304619/?gclid=CjwKCAjw0tHoBRBhEiwAvP1GFRUF2GcLamnSVCUxx8Q fqe-JKHIgDSWm8bWGCLAjcpYF-QA0Oqcu9xoCNp0QAvD_BwE

Yes it would be nice to have a complete "bulb" but I wanted the look of the sealed beam. My LEDs may work different with another brand housing.

[Timeless]

There are good options that provide the sealed beam look. Those 2 were just a quick search - I know I've seen LED 4x6 with the diffuser on the lens somewhere. (OEM look)

[Maritime-elf]

After reading this thread. I took the plunge and converted my headlights to the OEM look LED's. I basically followed the video posted by Dave on

https://www.dmc10515.com/delorean-led-headlights/

It was good instruction.

So here are my observations.

1) Unlike in Dave's video i did not splice into the original wire. I connected the adapter and I spliced (wire tapped) into the yellow wire on the adapter. I did this so the car can be returned more easily to stock if wanted.
2) I used a different LED bulb. I felt Hikari was a better deal(pure preference) I almost bought, LED bulbs with a amber cover, which give the halogen look. But, I ultimately decided against them because I did not feel the would produce sufficient brightness. If anyone does try LED bulbs with amber covers I would like to know how they come out. They can be found here:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07MZMQX3K?ref_=pe_623860_70668690_dpLink

3) Driving at night with the new LED's is an entirely different experience. HOLY SHIT are they bright, bright to the point, I did not need high beams at all. I would most recommend this conversion it is easy to do, and wasn't to expensive (relative to other Delorean Projects)

6051460515

4) I only lost 1 screw.

[nkemp]

I was making my Christmas list and was adding the parts for this conversion. But when I checked Amazon, the housings are no longer available. (OEM style 4 x 6 inch Glass Lens H4 HID LED Halogen High Low Beam Headlight Lamp Conversion Replacement)

Any ideas for replacements?

[nkemp]

I found two ebay sellers with something similar (identical?).
- starklights
- 12vmax

Although they look similar, I cannot say that they are good replacements for those posted in this thread.

Any input from the field?

[Maritime-elf]

The link doesn't seem to work. Do the two you found have a glass housing. That was what was nice about the ones I installed.



I found two ebay sellers with something similar (identical?).
- starklights
- 12vmax

Although they look similar, I cannot say that they are good replacements for those posted in this thread.

Any input from the field?

[nkemp]

Use the names to search eBay and then look for the product. I did not link to the listings since they can change and then the links are useless. This way you can search the seller.

Both listings indicate they are glass.

FWIW ... one are the housings only. The other is housing plus LED's. A reply from the latter indicated that these are DOT approved.

I currently have the former on my Christmas list and if I get them can tell you more in January :)

[Bitsyncmaster]

Here may be another option. I have not used these but was just looking for other owners. If you plan to do conversions you better start looking for the housings since they seem to be getting in short supply.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/ipc-cwc-7004/overview/

[gluaisrothaii]

The link doesn't seem to work. Do the two you found have a glass housing. That was what was nice about the ones I installed.

https://www.amazon.com/HELLA-003177801-164x103mm-Conversion-Headlamp/dp/B001G72UE0/ref=asc_df_B001G72UE0/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=265932960719&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=8573628950172187055&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=t&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9031977&hvtargid=pla-491512371480&psc=1

These are what I used. Very high quality and fit nicely in the original bezels.

[Lenny]

Dave and Dana,

I already have Xenon Headlights. I have a couple of questions.

1. Will LED's make a difference in amount of light, total draw, etc?
2. Can I just put LED bulbs in or do I need to buy new glass?

Or shut up Lenny and keep what you got;)

[DMC-81]

Dave and Dana,

I already have Xenon Headlights. I have a couple of questions.

1. Will LED's make a difference in amount of light, total draw, etc?
2. Can I just put LED bulbs in or do I need to buy new glass?

Or shut up Lenny and keep what you got;)

Hi Lenny,

If you've already got Xenon, I would just stick with them. According to the below article, Xenon /HID offer the brightest light while creating less heat than Halogen or LED. Of course, LED consumes the least power. In our cars, heat produced would be my main concern.

https://www.theretrofitsource.com/blog/halogen-vs-led-vs-hid-vs-laser/

[hippieman9]

This is a link to the GS power housings on Amazon, they are glass. GS Power's OEM style 4 x 6 inch Glass Lens H4 HID LED Halogen High Low Beam Headlight Lamp Conversion Replacement Kit (2 pc) | Lights Not Included | Also available in 7 x 6 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07F31V2CD/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_aWfcEb7BVKWJV


They are $19.99 a pair.

[Lenny]

Hi Lenny,

If you've already got Xenon, I would just stick with them. According to the below article, Xenon /HID offer the brightest light while creating less heat than Halogen or LED. Of course, LED consumes the least power. In our cars, heat produced would be my main concern.

https://www.theretrofitsource.com/blog/halogen-vs-led-vs-hid-vs-laser/

In other words "Shut Up Lenny and keep what you got" ;)

[Patrick C]

In other words "Shut Up Lenny and keep what you got" ;)

I tore out my Xenon kit and went with LEDs. No more ballasts, etc.

[nkemp]

Twas the night before Christmas
and I spied under the tree
Two pair of H4 headlight conversions
Sockets and 4 lamps LED

Here are some photos of the lamp conversion housings from eBay seller "12vmax", $42/4 housings.
6217462175

So far they look to be perfect and a good alternatives to the originals as shown in the writeup. But per the post above, they seem to be available on Amazon again. I'll have to fire up the garage heater and get to work.

[nkemp]

Today I started installing the LED headlights. When I put the new lamp housings in the buckets and then the trim I noticed that the new lamp has a gap between the glass and the trim :-(

Hard to say exactly but it looks to be about 0.2" off.

There are four tabs on the back of the lamp housings that position the lamp housings in the buckets but they don't position the housings out as far as the original halogen headlights. Thus the gap and probably looseness.

At this point, the only potential solution is some adhesive backed foam in the buckets where the housing tabs rest to push the lamp housing out a bit. But the good old days of simply wandering through the store looking for solutions is on hold. Dang virus!

Anyone have other ideas?

[Bitsyncmaster]

Look at post 36 in this thread.

[nkemp]

I ended up gluing foam pads to the buckets. Had I waited for the glue to set it would have worked better. In one case I built up the thickness from adhesive backed foam. I used multiple layers to get the thickness I needed. That one worked the best (the other pads moved as I installed the headlamps). The felt pads would have worked as well.

So adhesive backed felt pads or foam about 1/4" thick would work well.

I compared the dimensions of the GE halogen lamps to the new ones. The distance from the front or from the trim ledge to the mounting feet are 0.2" less on the new ones.

And they are SO MUCH BRIGHTER :)

[gluaisrothaii]

These Hella lights are more expensive but are a perfect fit in the DeLorean buckets. Mine were $89 a pair when I bought them.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001G72UE0/ref=ppx_yo_mob_b_inactive_ship_o0_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[FABombjoy]

I just swapped the "Amazon specials" for the Hella lamps and they do fit a bit better.

But I was able to piecemeal the housings from Amazon warehouse deals, otherwise I don't know that it's worth the significant cost difference. But I haven't driven at night yet to judge if the glass/reflector design is better.

[nkemp]

I do like how the non-Hella lamp housing looks. Very clean. And based on my garage test, I'm going to be delighted when I drive them at night.

FWIW ... I was surprised about the number of rock chips in the old headlights.

[gluaisrothaii]

I just swapped the "Amazon specials" for the Hella lamps and they do fit a bit better.

But I was able to piecemeal the housings from Amazon warehouse deals, otherwise I don't know that it's worth the significant cost difference. But I haven't driven at night yet to judge if the glass/reflector design is better.

I bought the el cheapo lamps first, ended up throwing them out. Thin quality glass, crappy reflector material and poor fit in the housings. The Hellas are more robust, heavier and fit well. Definitely overpriced though.

[nkemp]

The Hella indicate replaceable halogen. Are the LED and Halogen lamps mounting configuration interchangeable?

[Josh]

The Hella indicate replaceable halogen. Are the LED and Halogen lamps mounting configuration interchangeable?

Yes they are. I just installed a set in my truck the other day.

[MrChocky]

I bought the el cheapo lamps first, ended up throwing them out. Thin quality glass, crappy reflector material and poor fit in the housings. The Hellas are more robust, heavier and fit well. Definitely overpriced though.

Yeah, but you live in the East Bay, so it's hella gotta be done.

[Chris 16409]

Does anybody know the difference between these Hella units?

HELLA 003177862
https://www.amazon.com/HELLA-003177862-Module-Single-Headlamp/dp/B0002M9QQU


HELLA 003177001
https://www.amazon.com/HELLA-003177001-164x103mm-Conversion-Headlamp/dp/B000VU4X7U

[nkemp]

They both have the same number on the lower left of the glass. So they may be the same. It is not unusual to see the same thing with multiple prices on Amazon.

[gluaisrothaii]

Does anybody know the difference between these Hella units?

HELLA 003177862
https://www.amazon.com/HELLA-003177862-Module-Single-Headlamp/dp/B0002M9QQU


HELLA 003177001
https://www.amazon.com/HELLA-003177001-164x103mm-Conversion-Headlamp/dp/B000VU4X7U

Amazon's fine print says that the 77001 part is legal in Canada, and the 77862 is SAE/DOT compliant. And I've just discovered that I purchased the Canadian spec lamps....but they work fine. Differences outlined here (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Headlamp). The ECE headlamps have stricter control of glare on low beam (good) and allow brighter high beams (good).

[Mark D]

Amazon's fine print says that the 77001 part is legal in Canada, and the 77862 is SAE/DOT compliant. And I've just discovered that I purchased the Canadian spec lamps....but they work fine. Differences outlined here (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Headlamp). The ECE headlamps have stricter control of glare on low beam (good) and allow brighter high beams (good).

I'll second the E-code lamps over the SAE/DOT version. US spec lamps have more of a scatter beam pattern for illuminating the sides of the roadway so if you upgrade bulb brightness it just makes more glare for oncoming drivers.

The ECE version has a cleaner cutoff that is easier to aim and has the benefit of being able to run a brighter bulb without having it blind other drivers as long as they are aimed properly. I've upgraded the 7" round headlights on my jeep from sealed beams to H4 bulbs with SAE housings and then to E-code housings and each step was a noticeable improvement.

[Bitsyncmaster]

Amazon's fine print says that the 77001 part is legal in Canada, and the 77862 is SAE/DOT compliant. And I've just discovered that I purchased the Canadian spec lamps....but they work fine. Differences outlined here (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Headlamp). The ECE headlamps have stricter control of glare on low beam (good) and allow brighter high beams (good).

Now that is good info. I did some pattern testing when I installed LEDs into the cheap housings and never was very happy with the pattern. But I was comparing it to my 2018 Camry which has really good flat pattern LEDs.

I may buy one of the Hella housings and do some more testing.

[Chris 16409]

So it sounds like E-code spec would be better for brighter LEDs. I like a more warm white look, so I want a bulb in the 5000 Kelvin temp range. What do you thing of these?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07QSVLF1J

[Bitsyncmaster]

So it sounds like E-code spec would be better for brighter LEDs. I like a more warm white look, so I want a bulb in the 5000 Kelvin temp range. What do you thing of these?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07QSVLF1J

I bought a pair of 4 sided LEDs and they did not give me anything near a normal pattern. It was more like a spot light but that was with that cheaper housing. I do plan to test those 4 sided ones on the Hella housing. I do like the 4 sided unit because the power unit was the best of all the LEDs I tried. That power unit stayed cool (best efficancy) and the other two LED types I got their unit runs hot.

[Ron]

Amazon's fine print says that the 77001 part is legal in Canada, and the 77862 is SAE/DOT compliant. And I've just discovered that I purchased the Canadian spec lamps....but they work fine. Differences outlined here (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Headlamp). The ECE headlamps have stricter control of glare on low beam (good) and allow brighter high beams (good).
FWIW- We put four 003177862 on a dune buggy and they were listed as: Right Lane Driving, Off Road, No Bulb Included.
(Doesn't make sense!)

[Bitsyncmaster]

I bought a pair of 4 sided LEDs and they did not give me anything near a normal pattern. It was more like a spot light but that was with that cheaper housing. I do plan to test those 4 sided ones on the Hella housing. I do like the 4 sided unit because the power unit was the best of all the LEDs I tried. That power unit stayed cool (best efficancy) and the other two LED types I got their unit runs hot.

I got one of those Canada Hella housing and tested it with my 4 sided LEDs and it still looks like a spot light. I don't have an extra "cheap" housing or I would set up something to give a better test of the two.

[gluaisrothaii]

I got one of those Canada Hella housing and tested it with my 4 sided LEDs and it still looks like a spot light. I don't have an extra "cheap" housing or I would set up something to give a better test of the two.

Little bit close to get the full perspective but you can see the clear cutoff on low. I'm using these LED headlights (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07N67CQGQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1).

Low

https://photos.smugmug.com/Cars/1981-DMC-12/i-fpVqr3J/0/92278bd1/XL/IMG_5366_heic-XL.jpg (https://klevins.smugmug.com/Cars/1981-DMC-12/i-fpVqr3J/A)

High

https://photos.smugmug.com/Cars/1981-DMC-12/i-bB5PkGB/0/b52f0565/XL/IMG_5365_heic-XL.jpg (https://klevins.smugmug.com/Cars/1981-DMC-12/i-bB5PkGB/A)

[Chris 16409]

I got two HELLA 003177001 H4 enclosures. Side note mine say “Made in Romania”, so I don’t know how common the German made ones are. A buddy is letting me try a set of VLED 5000 kelvin bulbs. It’s hard to find a variety of the “warmer” temp bulb. As I have a fiberglass fascia I’ve been dreading doing this conversion. However to my surprise I got very lucky. I document that in my original thread about getting the fascia.

VLED Bulbs
https://www.vleds.com/shop-bulb-numbers/h4-9003-hb2/micro-evo-h4.html

Fiberglass Fascia Thread:
http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?4414-DMCH-Reproduction-Fiberglass-Front-Facia&p=257038&viewfull=1#post257038

63744

63745

[jackb]

I used Hella e-codes on my old XJ. They were legit AF.
I used H4 bulbs, not LED, and had them wired directly from the battery with the relay triggered by the signal from the OE harness.
Great housings. Sharp cutoff, great spread.

[Bitsyncmaster]

I got two HELLA 003177001 H4 enclosures. Side note mine say “Made in Romania”, so I don’t know how common the German made ones are.

63744

63745

I got the same box you show also made in Romania. I think my 4 sided LEDs will never work for automotive lighting.

[Chris 16409]

This is a good video that demonstrates how to re-order the terminals in the DeLorean low beam headlight plug socket for H4 configuration. I didn't realize the bit about how the whole plug needs to be rotated 180 degrees to make sense of the modification.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LnTgyeRJTME

[Chris 16409]

Finally went for a night drive to test out the headlights. Very nice illumination. These are just the low beams. Leave the stock sealed beams for now.

63751

[Chris 16409]

Has anybody looked into using Hella H1 housings for the high beams? Looking at H1 bulbs, they appear to only have 1 terminal. But our high beam sockets have two terminals. Does anybody know how these work? I would rather not use H4 housings in the high beam positions. Thanks.

[nkemp]

There are two connections. The center spade and the outer shell. It wouldn't work with only 1 electrical connection. To use, you'd need an H1 socket to adapt it to the D's socket.

[mark w]

Has anybody looked into using Hella H1 housings for the high beams? Looking at H1 bulbs, they appear to only have 1 terminal. But our high beam sockets have two terminals. Does anybody know how these work? I would rather not use H4 housings in the high beam positions. Thanks.

just be careful with wattage. some H1s are 100w and they give out alot of heat, which will warp your fascia.

[dmcerik]

This is a good video that demonstrates how to re-order the terminals in the DeLorean low beam headlight plug socket for H4 configuration. I didn't realize the bit about how the whole plug needs to be rotated 180 degrees to make sense of the modification.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LnTgyeRJTME

If this was done for all 4 headlights, would everything function properly? So only low beams would be on while the lights are on, then highbeams on ONLY when you want them to be?

[Timeless]

Holley now offers LED 4x6 headlights offering the OE look that JW does not. Anyone try these?

https://www.holley.com/products/exterior/lighting/headlight/rectangular_headlights/parts/LFRB140

[Helirich]

Holley now offers LED 4x6 headlights offering the OE look that JW does not. Anyone try these?

https://www.holley.com/products/exterior/lighting/headlight/rectangular_headlights/parts/LFRB140

Those look nice. The description is great too. The only thing they fail to mention is construction. I love everything about my LED’s except the plastic lens. I suspect the lens will scratch, cloud or yellow before the LED wares out. Why can’t they make them out of glass?

[Mark D]

Those look nice. The description is great too. The only thing they fail to mention is construction. I love everything about my LED’s except the plastic lens. I suspect the lens will scratch, cloud or yellow before the LED wares out. Why can’t they make them out of glass?

The description says "UV treated polycarbonate" which typically means once the coating is blasted off by road grit the underlying plastic will start to yellow and fade. I wish they were glass as well.

67869

[FABombjoy]

Holley now offers LED 4x6 headlights offering the OE look that JW does not. Anyone try these?
Wow, those look authentic!

Switching to the JW Speaker 8800s was amazing compared to even the Hella housings. Having a completely engineered lamp module makes a huge difference and I'd expect the Holley to be similar.

[Timeless]

The description says "UV treated polycarbonate" which typically means once the coating is blasted off by road grit the underlying plastic will start to yellow and fade. I wish they were glass as well.

67869
Can always apply PPF to them.

[82DMC12]

Those Holley lenses look great. I'm tempted but I want someone else to do it first.... haha. I'd definitely get them PPF'ed.

[Timeless]

Those Holley lenses look great. I'm tempted but I want someone else to do it first.... haha. I'd definitely get them PPF'ed.
If my car was in my possession I'd buy them yesterday.

[Mark D]

Can always apply PPF to them.

You're right, that's probably the best way to go in this case.

[Timeless]

Those Holley lenses look great. I'm tempted but I want someone else to do it first.... haha. I'd definitely get them PPF'ed.
Pulled the trigger and will post photos once they're installed and tested.

[mike123]

Here you go:

Glass casings (order 2 pairs): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07F31V2CD/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Hikari LED Headlights (order 2 pairs): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GKKJ9M4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Wiring Harnesses (Nearly plug and play): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07HNVJML9/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

For the low beams, it is completely plug and play. Absolutely zero modifications needed. For the high beams, we took the wiring harness bought off of Amazon, took the wire responsible for turning on the low beams, spliced it with the wire responsible for activating the high beams, and then introduced the modified Amazon wiring harness to the car's wiring harness (ZERO modifications done to the car's original wiring harness). That way, when the high beams are activated, the LEDs that were unused in the glass casing for the high beams were activated as well! Why let the "low beam " LEDs within the high beam glass casing go to waste?

I really enjoyed this write-up and this was the very first thing I did to my car a couple of years ago. That said, the cheap glass casings on Amazon are not good in my opinion. They scatter the light so much that they are impossible to aim without blinding oncoming traffic. The LEDs I happened to buy on Amazon as well had a similar issue. Putting both together, my headlights were basically floodlights.

I purchased a headlight kit from Chris Miles which was Hella housings and Morimoto LEDs. They give a much much better cutoff, similar to any other modern car I have driven. Attached are some comparison pictures in my garage at a distance of about 4 feet from headlights to white backdrop.

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[Bitsyncmaster]

I used the cheap glass housings and forgot which LED I got. Later I bought one Hella housing and my comparison found no difference. Maybe the LED is the controlling factor.

[mike123]

Thanks for sharing, that's another helpful data point. In the pictures above, I did try all combinations of LED and housing that I had. It looked to me like the housing was more important than the LED, but both did seem to matter. From what I can tell as well, the low beam "shutters" on the LEDs do vary across all of them, so it may depend on specific model. The Morimoto shutter does seem to be the most round and reflective, so it makes me think they are putting a bit more into the engineering than the cheaper LEDs.

[Timeless]

Forgot I said I would post an update. Here is a video of the Holley when they were installed. I'm sure there are some good housings on the market but I decided to not mess with housings then procuring the correct bulbs. I went with Holley because of the warranty and test results from the headlight source/headlight revolution. They have Morimoto bulbs so they aren't sealed in case one is bored with the color temperature or if the lens needs replacement.

https://youtu.be/hkVkpBFskk0?si=xp_vdUgXmeb8SLRc

[JBaker4981]

Maybe the LED is the controlling factor.

I think it is. All of these LED Bulbs have varying degrees of placement of the LED(s) with a metal cup generally underneath, all of which would factor into the beam pattern

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