Lower door strut ball replacement

[iflights]

Does anyone know if the DPI Lower Door Strut Reinforcement bracket kit requires removal of rear quarter panel. I'm assuming the T-panel must come off.

Has anyone used it and is it the current leading recommendation? Passenger side ball stud looks to be no longer straight nor loose, so thinking it has come to replacement/repair time.

Thanks in advance.
Steve

[dn010]

I used the kit from Grady years ago, it involved removing the upper infill panel if my memory is fine. Unless the original bracket was warped so much that you now have damaged fiberglass, you don’t need to remove the quarter panel. You’ll need rivets and RTV.

[Parzival]

I used deloreanGos kit for this. Its super robust, stainless steel front place with 3, yes THREE backing plates. I installed both sides in one evening. The rear quarters didn't have to come off, just un screw them down to the strikers and you can pull them out enough to get the space needed to install the new beefy brackets.

[dn010]

I did not use any of the plates for the back. I felt the bracket is well made compared to original and wouldn’t bend. I think the back plates are useful if you have fiberglass damage.

[Parzival]

I did not use any of the plates for the back. I felt the bracket is well made compared to original and wouldn’t bend. I think the back plates are useful if you have fiberglass damage.

the only worry I have about not using the back plates is the bolts pulling loose from the fiberglass. You're right, the new plate wont bend, but it could come loose. the original plates have a backing plate as well. When I installed the new plates I didn't have any fiberglass damage, just bent plates, I did paint a layer of fiberglass resin on to the underbody and then sandwiched the the plate and the backing plates into the underbody. Pretty easy, and I'll never have to worry about it again as long as I live.
I think this is project is in every Delorean owners future, every car I see has some degree of bending unless its been fixed already.

[dn010]

Along with the bolts I also used the hardcore rivet that came with the brackets. Need a larger rivet gun for them. I opted to do both sides even though only one was bad. I too doubt I’ll need to revisit them in the future. Definitely get them changed before you do get fiberglass damage.

[Parzival]

Along with the bolts I also used the hardcore rivet that came with the brackets. Need a larger rivet gun for them. I opted to do both sides even though only one was bad. I too doubt I’ll need to revisit them in the future. Definitely get them changed before you do get fiberglass damage.

ah, the DeloreanGo kit does not utilize rivets. just bolts and nuts that are welded to the backing plates. So with this kit I don't think you could go without the backing plate.

[Delorean Industries]

Our kit can be installed by partially pulling back for clearance by removing the leading edge hardware. Seamless and invisible when installed.

[iflights]

Thank you to everyone for the recommendations. Seems straightforward if I've caught it early enough.

[Parzival]

Thank you to everyone for the recommendations. Seems straightforward if I've caught it early enough.

you're probably fine, post some pictures when you're in there.

[dn010]

Well, here was mine and I avoided any FG damage. :)

59954

[Parzival]

Here is mine, Notice around the edge you can see the resin I added is still curing.
http://i65.tinypic.com/33f57qq.jpg

Here is the final result.
http://i66.tinypic.com/ajs8d5.jpg

Here was the original plate and backer. I drew I line through it to show how bent it was.
http://i66.tinypic.com/2u7vxbd.jpg

[iflights]

Well, here was mine and I avoided any FG damage. :)

59954

Mine is just about at the same angle, if not a few degrees less.

[iflights]

Ok, I reviewed the Workshop manual T-panel removal instructions. Not much there other than removing the 3 screws under the outer door seal on each side of the door is all I see, then pulling it to back to the rear of the car?

What about these adhesive strips under the T-Panel I've heard about? Not mentioned in the workshop manual at least on the page describing T-Panel removal.

Am I missing anything?

Thanks in advance,
Steve

[dn010]

There are three screws on each side you mentioned but there are also three screws holding down the plastic strip above the rear glass you have to remove. Once that is unscrewed you pull the bottom of the plastic towards the rear of the vehicle and it will disengage from the tabs on the T panel. If it is original be careful as the plastic is brittle. The screws may or may not have plastic protective caps on them. Then you can slide the T panel back and off the car. Any adhesive that may be there is probably deteriorated by now and I have never reapplied it any time my panel has been removed.

If you need visual help, the plastic strip holding the back of the panel is part number 105721.

[iflights]

There are three screws on each side you mentioned but there are also three screws holding down the plastic strip above the rear glass you have to remove. Once that is unscrewed you pull the bottom of the plastic towards the rear of the vehicle and it will disengage from the tabs on the T panel. If it is original be careful as the plastic is brittle. The screws may or may not have plastic protective caps on them. Then you can slide the T panel back and off the car. Any adhesive that may be there is probably deteriorated by now and I have never reapplied it any time my panel has been removed.

If you need visual help, the plastic strip holding the back of the panel is part number 105721.

Thanks. Exactly what I needed to know.

[AugustneverEnds]

Replacing these are next on my projects list. I've replaced the torsion bars and bolted the roofbox down so I figure this is the last weak spot I need to deal with.

What are the differences between the DI and DeLoreanGo kits? Neither one needs the quarter panel removed, right? I don't want to remove it if I do not need to.

[Parzival]

Replacing these are next on my projects list. I've replaced the torsion bars and bolted the roofbox down so I figure this is the last weak spot I need to deal with.

What are the differences between the DI and DeLoreanGo kits? Neither one needs the quarter panel removed, right? I don't want to remove it if I do not need to.

you will need to undo the quarters hardware enough to pull them away from the car a little bit. The don't need to come off.

[iflights]

you will need to undo the quarters hardware enough to pull them away from the car a little bit. The don't need to come off.

That's what I'm hoping for. Josh from DPI weighed in that removing the leading edge screws should give me enough room to manipulate the panel to create some space. I went with his kit.

[David T]

When removing the rear plastic valence and working on the Tee panel be aware of all of the VERY sharp edges of the S/S. As mentioned, that plastic piece is very easy to damage so be really careful with it. Once you remove the 3 screws you kind of roll it out from the bottom and release it from the tabs on the back edge of the Tee panel. Don't force it. Sometimes I have to slightly bend the tabs on the Tee panel to get the plastic valence to release. When re-installing the Tee panel you should make sure there is enough foam to hold the panel up in the front so the doors don't rub on it. Center it so both doors have equal gap on top. After you take the Tee panel off you should inspect the "roof box" for rust. Clean it up and cover it with POR 15. I use a rag on a stick, it is a messy job but you can't do it delicately.

[iflights]

When removing the rear plastic valence and working on the Tee panel be aware of all of the VERY sharp edges of the S/S. As mentioned, that plastic piece is very easy to damage so be really careful with it. Once you remove the 3 screws you kind of roll it out from the bottom and release it from the tabs on the back edge of the Tee panel. Don't force it. Sometimes I have to slightly bend the tabs on the Tee panel to get the plastic valence to release. When re-installing the Tee panel you should make sure there is enough foam to hold the panel up in the front so the doors don't rub on it. Center it so both doors have equal gap on top. After you take the Tee panel off you should inspect the "roof box" for rust. Clean it up and cover it with POR 15. I use a rag on a stick, it is a messy job but you can't do it delicately.

Timely advice, Thanks Dave.

[iflights]

Finally got the guts to start the lower door ball stud replacement project. Removing the outer door seal was easy, what was behind it took a full day to clean up and remove. Layers and layers of old RTV. When I replace this seal, what is the best practice on applying RTV? I was thinking 2 parallel lines of RTV running the length of the new seal then pressed into place.

Recommendations?

60481

[FABombjoy]

Use contact cement, not RTV.

-Easier to position as you install it - no taping or drying period
-Removable with adhesive remover
-Doesn't squish out and seep from around the seal

[iflights]

Use contact cement, not RTV.

-Easier to position as you install it - no taping or drying period
-Removable with adhesive remover
-Doesn't squish out and seep from around the seal

Great. Do you have a recommendation for the Contact Cement to use in this application?

[FABombjoy]

The hardware store stuff should work fine. I use it with those cheap acid brushes.
Apply it per the directions and you should be set: Light coat on both surfaces, wait until tacky, then slowly and carefully press it in to place.

You really don't need to apply it to the area of the outer bulb, just the flat. A little goes a long way and it holds very well. I would rather put too little on and then touch up spots later than put too much on an have to clean up excess. But you actuall can clean up excess with adhesive remover/naphtha/lacquer thinner and that's why it beats RTV for this job.

[iflights]

The hardware store stuff should work fine. I use it with those cheap acid brushes.
Apply it per the directions and you should be set: Light coat on both surfaces, wait until tacky, then slowly and carefully press it in to place.

You really don't need to apply it to the area of the outer bulb, just the flat. A little goes a long way and it holds very well. I would rather put too little on and then touch up spots later than put too much on an have to clean up excess. But you actuall can clean up excess with adhesive remover/naphtha/lacquer thinner and that's why it beats RTV for this job.

Thank you! Really appreciate the insight.

[iflights]

Successfully removed the T-Panel (the green tape will help with repositioning panel to original location) and got the suspect bracket out and replaced with the DPI offering.

No fiberglass damage, it was a bent bracket.

The new one isn't going anywhere!

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