4 gallons of varnish for Sale

[Doogie]

So, I finally had the chance to start the restoration of #03589. Just like Kirk (2378 ) I had a gas tank that hadn't seen movement in 25 years. So, after seeing his progress, I decided to tear into mine. My pump looks exactly like his! Now I have 4+ gallons of honey colored varnish free for the asking!

Watching this video on how to install the baffle made the experience a WHOLE LOT easier! I doubt I would have gotton the baffle out at all not having seen this video. VERY HELPFUL!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3vCAG2IUb3E

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3vCAG2IUb3E


I used a cheapo hand pump from Harbor Freight to extract the fuel. Worked pretty good, I taped the inlet hose to a peice of scrap wood so I could direct it into the tank.

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The fuel was pumped into the small container, where it was then used to pour into the bucket outside.

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Then, using a variety of tools (wood scraper/putty knife, etc) I was able to get a good amount of goo off the tank floor. THIS WAS NASTY STICKY STUFF! I scraped into a coffee can, you can see how thick it was.
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I think I should replace the pump assembly :-)

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I was surprised I got the baffle assembly out without it cracking into millions of little peiceds. Shockingly the nut came right off, no issue. The washer and hold down wires and the bottom of the baffle were 'stuck' to the bottom of the tank, or rather, I guess 'varnished to the bottom of the tank' would be a more accurate description.
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Any idea what would be good to use to clean the baffle? Someone mentioned Mineral Spirits?

[sean]

Wow! That is some sludge you've cleaned up right there. You never tried to start this car have you? Once you get the tank cleaned I'd connect the pump and purge the lines with clean gas, just run the return line to a gas safe container.


Any idea what would be good to use to clean the baffle? Someone mentioned Mineral Spirits?

I've had success with carb cleaner and some elbow grease.

[Doogie]

No, never tried to start, haven't even hooked up a battery to it yet..

[TTait]

I wish I had thought of offering up such debris - I only had about a gallon of sludge, but I did get 3 gallons of rodent droppings out of the car, the void between the intake and VOD was filled solid.

As you already have your cheap pump from harbor freight, I'd suggest doing what I've done on both my cars with excellent results (both had gas in them for about 12 years each).

Remove the fuel feed and return lines from the FD, and run a bolt through their banjos and use washers to get a semi liquid tight connection - then get a drip pan under the connection nonetheless.

Get a gallon of Berrymans B12, and put it in a plastic tub up by the pump. Hook your cheap pump to the feed line and put a transparent $1.49 fuel filter on the return. Pour in about a quart of the B12 and start circulating it. After a while, pour out the B12, replace with another cheap filter, and repeat. Keep doing it until the B12 stays fairly clear and no more chunks come out. The immediately flush with fresh gas. B12 will be hard on the buel accumulator if you leave it in for several hours (its probably toast, but even with a bad Accumulator you can try starting and running the car after this just to see what you have).

You will want to replace the fuel filter very soon, and the accumulator is likely ready to be replaced as well. Clean out the filter screen on the wur, and replace the two srings on the FD pressure regulator plunger.

Finally, go back to harbor freight and pick up an ultrasonic cleaner and give the injectors a good bath (I used B12 here too, again with a gasoline rinse after).

At this point your fuel system should be sufficient to let the car start and run - get the other fluids under control first though and crank it a few revolutions by hand with a breaker bar on the main nut first. Watch oil pressure on first crank.

Once you see what the B12 gets out - you will be glad you did it.

[David T]

Acetone is the cleaner of choice for old, sludgy gasoline. Take precautions for personal protection and fire. The injectors will eventually have to be properly cleaned in a tester/cleaner, an ultrasonic cleaner can only clean the outside. I would run the car for a short while at least on the old filter to get as much dirt into it as possible before replacing it with a new one. The accumulator has to be replaced because even if it is working it will fail shortly.
David Teitelbaum

[Doogie]

I think replacing the Fuel filter right away is a good idea. If the tank has this in it, I would imagine the filter does too right? My thoughts would be to replace the filter, clean flush clean flush etc, then replace the filter again before trying to start. Guess I should find out where the filter is 'eh? :-)

I'm also thinking to just go ahead an replace the accumulator on the same principal as the fuel filter. Am I overdoing it?

[Doogie]

Ttrait, If I read this right, I should connect the feed and return lines back at the engine together with a Banjo Bolt, then from the front of the engine pump good stuff up and back until it runs clear right? I'm assuming follow the route of the pump right? i.e. Pump up through the supply and let it drain back through the return into an empty container right? How hard is is to replace the accumlator?

[Doogie]

OK, need to replace all that junk. Is this the kit I need or is there something else I should use?

Thanks for your advice! Doug

http://www.delorean.com/store/p-10212-fuel-pump-combination-kit-aftermarket-pump.aspx

[sean]

OK, need to replace all that junk. Is this the kit I need or is there something else I should use?

that's a good kit to drop in. Don't forget to get the accumulator too.

[TTait]

Ttrait, If I read this right, I should connect the feed and return lines back at the engine together with a Banjo Bolt, then from the front of the engine pump good stuff up and back until it runs clear right? I'm assuming follow the route of the pump right? i.e. Pump up through the supply and let it drain back through the return into an empty container right? How hard is is to replace the accumlator?


Yes, they hook up at the fuel distibutor:

http://www.dmcnews.com/Techsection/fuelhoses.htm

Don't replace the delorean filter first, unless it clogs so badly during flushing that it won't flush any more, which is unlikely.

Use the cheap disposable filters to keep debris out of your tub up at the front of the car, and just keep recirculating the B12 for a while before you swap for fresh fluid and a fresh disposable filter.

Check the drip pan under the temporary connection by the fuel distributor periodically.

Do replace the accumulator and filter after you flush the system, but that can be done immediately, or in the near future. You have permission to try to start it before you replace the accumulator if you want to, just know that you will have to replace it to get the car to start easily.

Replacing the accumulator sucks. I gave up and I pay mechanics to do it, but that is for another day...

[TTait]

you might want to get this too, or maybe re-use the old one...

http://www.delorean.com/store/p-6554-support-ring.aspx

I'd also get 6 each of #11 and #13 on this page:

http://www.delorean.com/store/c-335-2-2-0-fuel-injection-system.aspx


and check out www.specialtauto.com John can clean and test your injectors if you want to send those out now...

John at specialt also sells a kit with all the copper washers you will need... handy and cheap - well labeled. Maybe you should get his oring and intake gaskets set too...

[TTait]

Just saw a post in another thread asking where to get an electric pump cheap to do the flush procedure - the answer is:

I went to a parts store and talked with the guy behind the counter, and had him do a computer search for fuel pump, sorted by price low to high, and we found an electric pump for about $12 out of some pickup truck...

I just did the same thing on ebay, and found this as the lowest price buy it now electric fuel pump currently listed:

http://www.ebay.com/bhp/mazda-b2200-...p2047675.m2392

for those looking elsewhere or in the future, that happens to be the pump from a Mazda b2200 pickup truck, and is selling for $14.

[virtualchuck]

I guess I am missing something as well regarding connecting the supply and return together for the flush. You would need to get a longer Banjo bolt to go through both hoses, then you put a shallow pan under it for the leak correct? Any chance you know the size?

Thanks!

Chuck

(Never mind you already answered this) "Take a smaller diameter 3" bolt and put a copper washer onto it, then a fender washer, then the feed line, another copper washer, the return line, another fender washer, a second copper washer, and finally the nut. Tighten it up snug but not over tight. Put the assembly over a small basin or tub, and put a cable tie on each of the fuel lines an inch or two down from the fittings to catch drips running down the hose and make sure they drip into the basin."

[DMCMW Dave]

I guess I am missing something as well regarding connecting the supply and return together for the flush. You would need to get a longer Banjo bolt to go through both hoses, then you put a shallow pan under it for the leak correct? Any chance you know the size?

Thanks!

Chuck

(Never mind you already answered this) "Take a smaller diameter 3" bolt and put a copper washer onto it, then a fender washer, then the feed line, another copper washer, the return line, another fender washer, a second copper washer, and finally the nut. Tighten it up snug but not over tight. Put the assembly over a small basin or tub, and put a cable tie on each of the fuel lines an inch or two down from the fittings to catch drips running down the hose and make sure they drip into the basin."

We use the double banjo bolt from the fuel distributor outlet (this is the correct size) and screw it into the top of an old fuel filter (going through the feed and return lines). We plug the bottom of the old fuel filter with an old spark plug. Looks bizarre but it was fast and cheap.

[TTait]

I guess I am missing something as well regarding connecting the supply and return together for the flush. You would need to get a longer Banjo bolt to go through both hoses, then you put a shallow pan under it for the leak correct? Any chance you know the size?

Thanks!

Chuck

(Never mind you already answered this) "Take a smaller diameter 3" bolt and put a copper washer onto it, then a fender washer, then the feed line, another copper washer, the return line, another fender washer, a second copper washer, and finally the nut. Tighten it up snug but not over tight. Put the assembly over a small basin or tub, and put a cable tie on each of the fuel lines an inch or two down from the fittings to catch drips running down the hose and make sure they drip into the basin."

Oh... it will leak, thats the point behind the catch basin, but with the low psi from the generic fuel pump it works just fine....