Clutch slave replacement

[alvanjudson]

Hello, All. I have bolted my new clutch slave cylinder in place but am struggling to introduce the operating pin into the end of the cylinder. Is it theoretically possible to pry the clevis far enough back to swivel that pin into the slave cylinder? I have my car over my pit and the access is poor at best and I have failed in all attempts to introduce the operating pin prior to bolting the slave in position.
Failing the prying method, has anyone tried cutting out the bar which supports the swiveling pin and substituting a bolt after the pin is in position?
Thanks.

P.S. (Why oh why didn't PRV mount the slave at 6 o'clock on the bell housing like everyone else does instead of 12 o'clock?)

[DMC-81]

Hello, All. I have bolted my new clutch slave cylinder in place but am struggling to introduce the operating pin into the end of the cylinder. Is it theoretically possible to pry the clevis far enough back to swivel that pin into the slave cylinder? I have my car over my pit and the access is poor at best and I have failed in all attempts to introduce the operating pin prior to bolting the slave in position.
Failing the prying method, has anyone tried cutting out the bar which supports the swiveling pin and substituting a bolt after the pin is in position?
Thanks.

P.S. (Why oh why didn't PRV mount the slave at 6 o'clock on the bell housing like everyone else does instead of 12 o'clock?)

What worked for me was:
1) prying the clutch fork back
2) introducing the slave by inserting the operating pin in first and then sliding the slave down into its mounting on the bell housing.
3) start the two 7 mm bolts and thread them halfway
4) release the pry bar

It can be done from underneath, but you’ll need patience and a few cuss words.

I wouldn’t remove the rivet bolt, because you’ll still have to pry the fork but you’ll need to thread the replacement bolt instead.

[alvanjudson]

What worked for me was:
1) prying the clutch fork back
2) introducing the slave by inserting the operating pin in first and then sliding the slave down into its mounting on the bell housing.
3) start the two 7 mm bolts and thread them halfway
4) release the pry bar

It can be done from underneath, but you’ll need patience and a few cuss words.

I wouldn’t remove the rivet bolt, because you’ll still have to pry the fork but you’ll need to thread the replacement bolt instead.

Thanks, Dana, for your lightning fast reply. When you described "what worked for you" were you somehow operating from on top or from underneath? I have found that it is, for me anyway, impossible tor raise the slave high enough and keep a controlling grip on it, to pop the operating pin in it before mounting the slave....with or without pre-prying. There just isn't enough clearance and I even took the small water hoses out of the way to try to improve access : all to no avail.

And I've tried the cuss words :).

[DMC-81]

Thanks, Dana, for your lightning fast reply. When you described "what worked for you" were you somehow operating from on top or from underneath? I have found that it is, for me anyway, impossible tor raise the slave high enough and keep a controlling grip on it, to pop the operating pin in it before mounting the slave....with or without pre-prying. There just isn't enough clearance and I even took the small water hoses out of the way to try to improve access : all to no avail.

And I've tried the cuss words :).

Oh, you are welcome. I was working from underneath. I used a long pry bar and wedged it so I had the fork secured, and both hands free. You are right, I couldn't pry and maneuver. I was working alone, but perhaps if you had a helper to hold the fork while you maneuver the slave, that may do the trick.

[alvanjudson]

Oh, you are welcome. I was working from underneath. I used a long pry bar and wedged it so I had the fork secured, and both hands free. You are right, I couldn't pry and maneuver. I was working alone, but perhaps if you had a helper to hold the fork while you maneuver the slave, that may do the trick.

I did have the pry bar clamped back and both my hands free. With the pry bar deployed the lever only moved about 1/2". (Plenty for declutching of course but not enough to get the pin in.)
I think I'm going to have to try removing the rivet bolt and go that route. Wish me luck. Thanks again for your help. Here goes!

[alvanjudson]

Oh, you are welcome. I was working from underneath. I used a long pry bar and wedged it so I had the fork secured, and both hands free. You are right, I couldn't pry and maneuver. I was working alone, but perhaps if you had a helper to hold the fork while you maneuver the slave, that may do the trick.


Solved!
After further deliberation, I did what you recommended Dana but decided to attack the problem from on top. I removed the engine cover, a couple of fuel and vacuum lines and got great access to the slave cylinder. From the top it's quite straightforward to install the mounting bolts, the fluid line and the actuating pin. In fact, with the benefit of hindsight, I'd say the only reason to venture under a DeLorean for this job is to pry the clevis back and clamp the pry bar. Again thanks for your help.
Alvan Judson

[DMC-81]

Solved!
After further deliberation, I did what you recommended Dana but decided to attack the problem from on top. I removed the engine cover, a couple of fuel and vacuum lines and got great access to the slave cylinder. From the top it's quite straightforward to install the mounting bolts, the fluid line and the actuating pin. In fact, with the benefit of hindsight, I'd say the only reason to venture under a DeLorean for this job is to pry the clevis back and clamp the pry bar. Again thanks for your help.
Alvan Judson

Great that you got it resolved! :thumbup:

Definitely, it's much easier from the top.