Replacing Window Switches

[Felix_29]

Hello all, I ordered some new Window Switches for my car. Is there anything tricky about installing these. They are the ones from DMC. Illuminated LED. Is there a tutorial anywhere on how to do this? Thanks in advance.

[D Knight]

A very easy job. Pull the old ones out, unplug the connector and install the new ones. Sometimes you may need to pull the ashtray and push them out from the bottom


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[Timeless]

Very easy - switches just pull up and have a small connector. May I suggest a switch alignment plate. Great piece to keep switches secure and "in-line":

https://www.deloreango.com/us/console-switch-aligner-plate-stainless.html

https://pjgrady.com/product/the-mattaligner-ss/

[Citizen]

You know, over the years I've read and read about how easy a job it is to replace window switches. Yeah, I agree, in theory it is easy. But...

I've had to do it a number of times now. Pick your reason: PO inverted switch (press up, window goes down, & visa versa), switch went bad, replace dummy with accessory cut-off switch. Truth is, I've had trouble almost every time. I'm sure you're probably thinking it's just me, but here are some troubles I've encountered.


Existing/Old switch seems stuck in place. Can't remove it from the top without totally destroying it after pulling on it, then knocking the rocker-cover off. Then have to push up from the bottom, and even then it takes a lot of force and so you tend to use too much, damaging the switch.

New switches are too tall, bad design - Bottoms out for whatever reason (console has been pushed down, doesn't match existing hole properly, new switch is too big, or the notch doesn't align)

I do recommend a Mattaligner from PJGrady. This was the only way my new switches would go back in, and stay down. Without it, the new switches are too tall (or the console has been pushed down over time). Not only does the Mattaligner properly align your switches, but it gives you "bump protection", AND.... it gives you just a few more mm's to work with by raising the switch a bit. Also, someone (I'd like to give credit, and I think it was Rob Grady) recommended placing a 2x4x1" block inside and under the console. This is a great suggestion: there is room in there, and it will stop your console from being pushed down even further whenever you push down on it, like when you're adjusting yourself in your seat.

I also don't recommend forcing a switch into place if it doesn't fit in easy and properly. The switches are delicate and easy to screw up, and it's an expensive and frustrating mistake to make. Seek help as needed (advice from a pro, or purchase a Mattaligner, or whatever).

(I have no financial interest in Mattaligners, I just know this product solved my very frustrating window switch problems).

Thomas

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[Felix_29]

Thanks everyone, ok I tried all that. Everything seemed to be good. I installed the Jumper on each new switch and the light illuminated on the left driver side switch but it would not lower my window. I am thinking there is another problem there.

I installed the passenger side switch and everything was working again as it should. Window going up and down without problem. I got curious and unplugged the passenger switch to try it on the Driver side to make sure it wasn't a problem with the switch itself and I got the same result as the first time. Illumination but no window movement. I went to install it back on the passenger side and now there is no illumination and the window doesn't move up or down at all! I am thinking some Electrical problem has developed now on the passenger side. So much for my easy repair... Any help would be appreciated greatly?

[Bitsyncmaster]

When you put the connector on, wiggle it a little, never force it on. I have seen a few window switches where the pins have been forced and they press into the switch mechanics and break things. Sometimes the wires are pulling on the pins and they need a little play to mate with the switch pins.

[Ron]

Just in case:
How-To-Test-Window-Motors/Jumper-Window-Switch (http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?17574-How-To-Test-Window-Motors-Jumper-Window-Switch&p=248579#post248579)

[Felix_29]

I appreciate it but I don't understand it...

[Ron]

Sorry, see if it is clear now. Updated version HERE (http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?17574-How-To-Test-Window-Motors-Jumper-Window-Switchs&p=248579#post248579)

[JtBosman1979]

Hello,

has anyone had any trouble with a connector causing a short and blowing the 30 amp fuse? I just hit the window switch to roll down my window today and it blew the 30 amp fuse. I took out the switch and its pretty melted. Wondering if that's my problem. WIth the window switch out, it doesn't blow the fuse.

Sorry if this highjacking this thread, but not sure where to ask about it.

Thanks,

Josh

[Bitsyncmaster]

Hello,

has anyone had any trouble with a connector causing a short and blowing the 30 amp fuse? I just hit the window switch to roll down my window today and it blew the 30 amp fuse. I took out the switch and its pretty melted. Wondering if that's my problem. WIth the window switch out, it doesn't blow the fuse.

Sorry if this highjacking this thread, but not sure where to ask about it.

Thanks,

Josh

Is the switch an original or who's new one? You can plug the other window switch into the bad side and see if the window motor is still working.

[TheStoot]

My passenger window switch doesn't 'stop' trying to roll up the window when you press it. If you hold it down for a second past where the window stops going up it starts to click loudly in the door until you stop pressing the switch. Is this a switch going bad? It happens if your resting your elbow on the center console and accidently bump the switch also, scaring the crap outta the passenger

[JtBosman1979]

My mistake, I said switch on my original post but meant the switch connector. My switches say on them delorean.com and are relatively new, not original, and look fine. It's the white switch connector for the driver side window is melted and looking pretty sad. I think maybe the connector just got so warped the plastic melted enough to allow two wires to connect and cause a short.

Man, I just love this car and the help everyone provides, there is not a better car in the world with such a great group of people.

[Bitsyncmaster]

My passenger window switch doesn't 'stop' trying to roll up the window when you press it. If you hold it down for a second past where the window stops going up it starts to click loudly in the door until you stop pressing the switch. Is this a switch going bad? It happens if your resting your elbow on the center console and accidently bump the switch also, scaring the crap outta the passenger

There is no automatic shut off on the windows. You have to release the switch when the window has stopped moving. I could design one that would sense the electrical current change but I would guess few people would spend money for something not really needed. It would not be cheap since it would need current detection and MOSFET drivers.

[David T]

My passenger window switch doesn't 'stop' trying to roll up the window when you press it. If you hold it down for a second past where the window stops going up it starts to click loudly in the door until you stop pressing the switch. Is this a switch going bad? It happens if your resting your elbow on the center console and accidently bump the switch also, scaring the crap outta the passenger

Like bitsynmaster says, the windows in the Delorean don't automatically stop like newer cars. That said, if you hold the switch down and force the window hard against the stop (up or down) till it clicks, you will damage the window regulator, especially the OEM one with the tube. If you watch the outside of the door you will actually see the S/S bulge outwards when the window gets all the way down where the regulator moves against the door panel inside the door. Actually, creating an automatic shut off is probably a good investment, cheaper than replacing the window regulators! Maybe something like the Central Locking System for the doors so you can control both windows together. Someone (I forget who) sells a small "U" shaped plastic strip you can place over the switches so you don't accidentally bump them on. Usually it's the Defrost switch and you don't realize it till you see the little light on in the center console (if it isn't burnt out).

[TheStoot]

My driver side window does not continue to try and run the motor once it has reached it's fully up or down position, but the passenger side does. The switches also go in different directions for the up/down so someone has changed or messed with one or the other

[Bitsyncmaster]

My driver side window does not continue to try and run the motor once it has reached it's fully up or down position, but the passenger side does. The switches also go in different directions for the up/down so someone has changed or messed with one or the other

Your probably just stalling the motor and the lift mechanics are not slipping. Not a good thing to keep it stalled with power on.