ALIGNMENT specs with upgraded suspension?

[ttwo]

61072

I have Eibach upgraded suspension and wonder when i get an alignment if i use the same specs as stock suspension?


I believe these are stock:
Toe-In: 3mm (0.12 inch) per wheel
Caster Angle: 3.5° to 4° Positive non-adjustable
Camber Angle: 0° to 0.5° Negative
King Pin Inclination: 6° ± 0.5° - 0° non-adjustable

this is taken from maintenance manual :
https://archive.org/stream/DeLoreanMaintenanceManuals/DMC-Bulletins-Hybrid#page/n125/mode/2up

[CFI]

That’s a great question. I have the Eibach setup too but I haven’t needed an alignment yet. Contacting DMCH directly is probably the way to go.

[David T]

The answer is yes, but. If you lowered the ride height you may not be able to achieve all of the specs. Get the specs and the procedure from the Service Bulletin ST-34-1/82 and don't forget the rear specs. You also need the torque specs and make sure the recalls have been done.

[ttwo]

so just bring in a copy of that Service Bulletin ST-34-1/82 and they should be able to figure it out? It is lowered btw

[Josh]

your camber will likely be out of spec, especially in the rear.
Without adjustable rear links you can only adjust the toe front and back, 1/8" in all around.
Everything else is just a reference. Even if it is out there is no way to change it.

[ttwo]

ok! thanks

my biggest concern is the front as the tires are wearing weird and i'm getting new tires!

[David T]

If you are spending for an alignment you might as well get all four wheels done. Because the car is lowered you really should have adjustable rear lower links so you can properly set the rear camber. Take ST-09-7/81 for the torque specs too. You DO NOT want to overtorque the TAB's (Trailing Arm Bolts) in the rear. If the shop has a modern machine the Delorean specs should already be in it. If not they can input them as a custom spec manually. When you leave make sure the steering wheel is perfectly straight when driving straight and it turns equally in each direction (same # of turns to lock on each side). On a flat road (with no crown) the car should drive straight. Before going remove as much junk from the car as you can, check the tire pressures and have a 1/2 tank of gas. The shop is supposed to inspect the suspension and steering for any loose or worn parts BEFORE attempting an alignment. The only things easily adjustable is the toe front and rear and if you have the adjustable rear links, the rear camber. If the other specs are out it means something is bent or the car is lowered.

[ttwo]

excellent help! I will do that and I'll be excited to have her drive straight again!

[ttwo]

I see that in order to make the lowered suspension camber get back to spec i would need an adjustable rear control arm. I see that both upper and lower ones are sold. I cannot see where both would be required so which is needed to typically adjust the proper camber?

upper (https://deloreanindustries.com/delorean-36-top-link-arm-adjustable-pair/)

lower (https://deloreanindustries.com/delorean-16-adjustable-lower-control-arms-rear/)

[Delorean Industries]

We recommend uppers when correcting the suspension geometry created with the above parts installed. In stock and ready to ship.

[ttwo]

excellent!

[Chris 16409]

For the front suspension with lowering springs I have used 1mm toe in. It seems to be working nicely. I have not lowered the rear of the car.

[David T]

Either one works, and you certainly don't need both. Most have used the lower adjustable one. Whichever one you chose you don't need all that much adjustment but you do need some and either one can do it.

[Hill Valley PD]

I may have to replace my rack. I also have the full eibach kit set-up (shocks and springs) front and rear. I imagine after rack replacement I too will need an alignment.

[ttwo]

I had it aligned and my car does have LOWER control arms that are adjustable so we were able to correct the camber since my car is lowered. It also appears that my car has an adjustable trailing arm (anyone else have this?) but it is already adjusted as short as it can be so I think it is still toed out slightly. But the tires should wear better and it drives much better now.

I can see no reference anywhere to aftermarket trailing arms but mine appear to be tubular and adjustable???

[David T]

I don't know of any trailing arms that were adjustable. You may have a custom fabricated set. Can you post pictures? Rear thrust angle, aka rear toe, is set by adding or removing washers on the trailing arm bolts.

[ttwo]

curious. I will try to get a photo for sure!

[Delorean Industries]

I had it aligned and my car does have LOWER control arms that are adjustable so we were able to correct the camber since my car is lowered. It also appears that my car has an adjustable trailing arm (anyone else have this?) but it is already adjusted as short as it can be so I think it is still toed out slightly. But the tires should wear better and it drives much better now.

I can see no reference anywhere to aftermarket trailing arms but mine appear to be tubular and adjustable???

If you have a old pearce frame then yes. The heim joints at the end of your trailing arms may be adjustable.

[ttwo]

'old pearce frame'???? please explain. I do know that I have a full stainless steel frame placed in 2011.

my vin: 11065

[David T]

If you don't have an original frame then any previous information given is not applicable. Very possible you do have adjustable trailing arms but I have no idea how accurate that frame was built and if you can get it to spec (you should be able to). Those frames were built with Heim joints and cannot be used on an original frame (they came with and are built for that frame). The frames are also heavier but they will never rust!

[ttwo]

we got close to spec. How can I tell if it is a 'pearce frame?'
did any other company make stainless frames? I understand that there may be only about 30 cars out there with the stainless frame

[David T]

I believe the only S/S frames that were ever made were the Pierce frames. It is possible someone custom built one but I doubt it. They were a good frame, there have been no negative comments about them except they wound up being heavy. They were built using a jig made off of a good frame so they should be good. I don't know of any identifying markings.

[r00b]

we got close to spec. How can I tell if it is a 'pearce frame?'
did any other company make stainless frames? I understand that there may be only about 30 cars out there with the stainless frame

Do your trailing arms look like this? If so then it's a Pearce frame
https://www.dmcnews.com/Techsection/ssframe/back.jpg


I believe the only S/S frames that were ever made were the Pierce frames. It is possible someone custom built one but I doubt it. They were a good frame, there have been no negative comments about them except they wound up being heavy. They were built using a jig made off of a good frame so they should be good. I don't know of any identifying markings.

I didn't know they were heavier, do you know by how much?

[David T]

I don't know exactly what the difference is but they are definitely heavier (in the future everything is HEAVY). The car was originally designed to be built with an integrated shell/frame but that never happened and changing to the discrete metal frame already added weight causing the car to be under-powered.

[Delorean Industries]

I believe the only S/S frames that were ever made were the Pierce frames. It is possible someone custom built one but I doubt it. They were a good frame, there have been no negative comments about them except they wound up being heavy. They were built using a jig made off of a good frame so they should be good. I don't know of any identifying markings.

We have been producing stainless frames since late 2012 and have far exceeded the number previously produced years ago.

[ttwo]

Do your trailing arms look like this? If so then it's a Pearce frame
https://www.dmcnews.com/Techsection/ssframe/back.jpg



I didn't know they were heavier, do you know by how much?

i will get a photo this weekend but when my car was up on the rack I want to say they were more tubular!? Those appear to be cage/frame like. hmmmm.
I'll look closely and get a photo.

[ttwo]

yep it looks just like the above photo. thanks for the help

[Josh]

(in the future everything is HEAVY)

Wow, Dave with the BTTF references. nice