Delorean go fuse box

[AZ-D]

I bought the fuse block from DeLorean go. I was reading through the instructions and it mentions to "assess and diagnose your electrical system by determining which fuses currently work and which do not" by using a test light or volt meter. The instructions tell you to go to www.deloreans.com for a data sheet. I don't think that is an active URL anymore? It just takes you to a online magazine website.

Am I just checking for 12 volts at each fuse terminal? How exactly do I accomplish this? I have a volt meter, but I would just like to know exactly how I am supposed to do this to get accurate readings in this specific instance with the fuse block. I want to make sure every fuse has power before I go and replace the entire fuse block.

Electrical testing will be the bane of my existence. Layman's terms please.

Thank you.

[Rich_NYS]

Testing fuses while in a fuse box position:

Post a pic of your "voltmeter" dial for layman's terms, but taking a guess at what you're working with....


With a "voltmeter" set to Vdc, touch the black lead to a ground point (black cable of the battery should work,) red lead to each "side" (on the top) of a fuse. If the fuse is good and has power to it, the needle on your meter should move to the 12V position on both sides of the fuse.

Testing fuses while OUT of fuse box:

With a "voltmeter" set to Ohms:

Black lead on one side (of the top,) red lead on the other.....needle should move, measuring resistance. If the needle doesn't move, the fuse is "open" (blown fuse.) You should also be able to see it by looking at the side....it's usually obvious to see it's "burned open."

[AZ-D]

Testing fuses while in a fuse box position:

Post a pic of your "voltmeter" dial for layman's terms, but taking a guess at what you're working with....


With a "voltmeter" set to Vdc, touch the black lead to a ground point (black cable of the battery should work,) red lead to each "side" (on the top) of a fuse. If the fuse is good and has power to it, the needle on your meter should move to the 12V position on both sides of the fuse.

Testing fuses while OUT of fuse box:

With a "voltmeter" set to Ohms:

Black lead on one side (of the top,) red lead on the other.....needle should move, measuring resistance. If the needle doesn't move, the fuse is "open" (blown fuse.) You should also be able to see it by looking at the side....it's usually obvious to see it's "burned open."


Thank you. That's exactly what I was looking for and not how I would have tired to accomplish that without asking. This is my volt meter.

61977

[Rich_NYS]

Thank you. That's exactly what I was looking for and not how I would have tired to accomplish that without asking. This is my volt meter.

61977

I just noticed the URL; it should be delorean.com....not deloreans.com.

This is probably the URL you want, but I don't think it's enough detail for what you're asking: http://support.delorean.com/KB/browse.aspx

There are electrical engineers here..I'm expecting they'll jump in soon. If not, I'll help with the meter you have. In the meantime, Vdc is the dial position that has a "V" with a straight and dashed line under it.

Ohms is the dial position that has a horseshoe-looking symbol, with a "K" following whatever number your meter has.

BTW....your meter measures Ohms, Volts (AC/DC,) and Amperage. It's a multimeter.

[AZ-D]

I just noticed the URL; it should be delorean.com....not deloreans.com.

This is probably the URL you want, but I don't think it's enough detail for what you're asking: http://support.delorean.com/KB/browse.aspx

There are electrical engineers here..I'm expecting they'll jump in soon. If not, I'll help with the meter you have.


When I was testing for 12v at the door light sockets I was using the 750v selection on the left side. Seemed to work out since I got them working. The instructions that come with the meter are surprisingly bad.

[DMC5180]

Do you have any reason to believe some of your circuits don’t work?

If you just want to determine if all the fuses are getting power, just turn the key to the Run position. Take your volt meter and set it on 1000V scale ( 3 o’clock) right side. Take the black lead and put it on the Neg battery terminal, then proceed with the red probe and touch the metal contacts on the top of each fuse. Be sure to touch both contacts on each fuse. If a fuse only has power on one contact, it is blown. Make notes of any fuses that don’t have power and report back with results.

[Rich_NYS]

I kept editing my post....sorry, probably need to reread it.

[AZ-D]

Do you have any reason to believe some of your circuits don’t work?

If you just want to determine if all the fuses are getting power, just turn the key to the Run position. Take your volt meter and set it on 1000V scale ( 3 o’clock) right side. Take the black lead and put it on the Neg battery terminal, then proceed with the red probe and touch the metal contacts on the top of each fuse. Be sure to touch both contacts on each fuse. If a fuse only has power on one contact, it is blown. Make notes of any fuses that don’t have power and report back with results.


I can visibly tell all of the fuses are not blown ( the little metal piece in the center of them). When I hook the battery up and turn the key to power....only the battery light (on the dash), door lights, clock, and radio show activity. I can hear something clicking from relay area as well. I am not sure what dash lights should light up with key to power on normally.

However.....when I hook up the battery. The door lights do not turn on until I pull the fuse then reinstall it.


I will test each fuse separately tomorrow morning.

[Bitsyncmaster]

You would need the key turned all the way on to get power to all the fuse block. Don't know why you need to test what is not working before replacing the fuse block. I guess in a rare failure that would save you a terminal if you had to replace a broken wire.

[Ron]

+1 Dave.
The only other reason I can think of is so you know that you you caused a new problem during installation...


However.....when I hook up the battery. The door lights do not turn on until I pull the fuse then reinstall it.
The door light fuse (#12) should always be hot (12V+ both sides) regardless of the key position. So with the key on or off, when you open either door, its lights should come on. And the interior lights may come on, depending on what mode their individual switch is set to (always on/always off/off after delay). If the door lights only come on when you pull and reinstall the same fuse, it is probably a bad connection at the fuse's socket (terminal pushed down in the socket, dirty connection, broke wire on either side of the fuse, and rarely a flaky fuse). It would be odd if it didn't do this intermittently....
How do the interior lights act?

[AZ-D]

You would need the key turned all the way on to get power to all the fuse block. Don't know why you need to test what is not working before replacing the fuse block. I guess in a rare failure that would save you a terminal if you had to replace a broken wire.

I don't want to wonder if something does not work cause I did something wrong or if it didn't work to begin with.


+1 Dave.
The only other reason I can think of is so you know that you you caused a new problem during installation...

The door light fuse (#12) should always be hot (12V+ both sides) regardless of the key position. So with the key on or off, when you open either door, its lights should come on. And the interior lights may come on, depending on what mode their individual switch is set to (always on/always off/off after delay). If the door lights only come on when you pull and reinstall the same fuse, it is probably a bad connection at the fuse's socket (terminal pushed down in the socket, dirty connection, broke wire on either side of the fuse, and rarely a flaky fuse). It would be odd if it didn't do this intermittently....
How do the interior lights act?


It is probably just the connection cause they turned on when I hook the battery up no issue this time. Interior lights work as well.

[AZ-D]

I tested all the fuses, I have power to all of them except #2, 8, 14, and whatever the inline fuse pictured is with the 2 blue/white wires. I am going to assume its most likely #15? I also moved working fuses to those spots and still didn't get power.

Where should I start to trouble shoot the non working fuses?

61981

[Bitsyncmaster]

I tested all the fuses, I have power to all of them except #2, 8, 14, and whatever the inline fuse pictured is with the 2 blue/white wires. I am going to assume its most likely #15? I also moved working fuses to those spots and still didn't get power.

Where should I start to trouble shoot the non working fuses?

61981

Turn your lights on and you should get power on 2, 8, and 14 if you have low beam selected.

[DMC5180]

I tested all the fuses, I have power to all of them except #2, 8, 14, and whatever the inline fuse pictured is with the 2 blue/white wires. I am going to assume its most likely #15? I also moved working fuses to those spots and still didn't get power.

Where should I start to trouble shoot the non working fuses?

61981

The floating fuse with 2 blue/white wires is fuse 15 (high beam). The other floating fuse is fuse 10 (A/C mode switch). Your missing fuse 13 is (Auto transmission only). It has power going to it but doesn’t power anything down stream. Fuse 18 (brake lights) is not used (usually Empty) but I see wire terminals in your fuse box so you might need a 10 amp fuse there.

[AZ-D]

I see wire terminals in your fuse box so you might need a 10 amp fuse there.

Where are you referring to here?