Come so far to find this!

[Parzival]

Well, after all the work of tearing down the heads, getting them machined, dropping the oil pan to replace the liner seals, and TONS of other stuff. TONS!
The heads are put back on and I go to install the exhaust and what do I find.... A crack in the block.
By the looks of this I don't know if it was there before or not. Because of the location I believe it may have occurred when torquing the heads, which was done exactly by the book (DMC-81 can vouch for that as-well) and the threads were cleaned up with a tap before re installing the heads so who knows how that can happen.
62378
62379

The trouble is this is where the threads for the head bolt are, so 1) who know if its really getting the clamping force required, 2) coolant may be able to leak out, 3) the crack will spread with heat up and cool down cycles 4) if this happened here, there may be more of them unseen.
So now it looks like I may be in need of an engine, and after spending over 40k on the car, to still need an engine is probably the most un-motivational thing I think I could ever come up with.
Living the dream, I am not sadly.

[Riley88]

Holy shit this sucks to see man, I am so sorry. You didn't do a full block inspection when you first tore it down? SOmeone was just selling a motor, but I am not sure if it sold, I am sure you saw the thread. Ill look around for you. Im always looking at parts, ebay, craigslist etc. If i see anything ill post it here bud. Someone whos a better engine expert im sure will post

EDIT: white out here on the forum seems to have a motor for sale!

[Parzival]

Holy shit this sucks to see man, I am so sorry. You didn't do a full block inspection when you first tore it down? SOmeone was just selling a motor, but I am not sure if it sold, I am sure you saw the thread. Ill look around for you. Im always looking at parts, ebay, craigslist etc. If i see anything ill post it here bud. Someone whos a better engine expert im sure will post

EDIT: white out here on the forum seems to have a motor for sale!

Thank you!
Yeah, not sure what to think at this point.
I'm about to leave on a trip for a week, I'll be filming full days the whole time Im gone so, wont really be deciding what to do until I get back.

As far as looking over the block, I did look at it and didn't see this, The engines never been out of the car, so those areas can be hard to see I guess. When I went to install the exhaust I got a new light that was much brighter and then I saw it, that was earlier this evening. Then just said screw it and went in.

[Riley88]

crack doesnt seem so bad

[Parzival]

crack doesnt seem so bad

I can’t imagine that coolant won’t leak out from it


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[Michael]

I can’t imagine that coolant won’t leak out from it


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As long as there are no passages open it shouldn't leak. What you might consider doing is removing the head and having it welded You might have to retap or clean up the threads but you might get lucky and just have to R+R the head and replace the gasket. If it's not possible to weld(most people don't want to weld aluminium) maybe a cold weld would work. The only issue is the torque applied right at that point with the head bolts. It might pull back loose but I would at least investigate the possibility.

I assume that if you can picture it that you can get in there to repair it without removing the engine.

[Parzival]

As long as there are no passages open it shouldn't leak. What you might consider doing is removing the head and having it welded You might have to retap or clean up the threads but you might get lucky and just have to R+R the head and replace the gasket. If it's not possible to weld(most people don't want to weld aluminium) maybe a cold weld would work. The only issue is the torque applied right at that point with the head bolts. It might pull back loose but I would at least investigate the possibility.

I assume that if you can picture it that you can get in there to repair it without removing the engine.

Not sure, I had to slide my phone in between the block and the frame to get the photo. Doubtful that someone could do a weld on the right a space.


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[Parzival]

Not sure, I had to slide my phone in between the block and the frame to get the photo. Doubtful that someone could do a weld on the right a space.


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That tight of a space I mean

[DMCMW Dave]

Unfortunately it's cracked where the bolt threads grab. If welded it would be unlikely to hold the torque of the head bolt without cracking again. To get it welded you'll probably be pulling it out of the car and taking that side apart again anyway. With all that work, I'd be shopping for at least a new block. With all the engine swaps going on you can probably find a whole engine, or decent short block, for a reasonable price.

When you torqued that bolt, were you able to pull the required torque or did it suddenly go loose? When you took the head off, did you unscrew it with a ratchet or an impact?

This can be caused by rust build up on the head bolts where they protrude thru the block. When you unscrew the head bolts the bottom end is wider than the rest of the bolt due to the rust ridge. There isn't really anything you can do about it, sometimes stuff (sic) just happens. I've actually snapped a head bolt due to this. I doubt that it will be leaking where it's cracked, that seems to be on the outside of the block and it doesn't look all that fresh. But - do you feel lucky?

It could also have been there from a prior job by an overzealous mechanic.

[Parzival]

Unfortunately it's cracked where the bolt threads grab. If welded it would be unlikely to hold the torque of the head bolt without cracking again. To get it welded you'll probably be pulling it out of the car and taking that side apart again anyway. With all that work, I'd be shopping for at least a new block. With all the engine swaps going on you can probably find a whole engine, or decent short block, for a reasonable price.

When you torqued that bolt, were you able to pull the required torque or did it suddenly go loose? When you took the head off, did you unscrew it with a ratchet or an impact?

This can be caused by rust build up on the head bolts where they protrude thru the block. When you unscrew the head bolts the bottom end is wider than the rest of the bolt due to the rust ridge. There isn't really anything you can do about it, sometimes stuff (sic) just happens. I've actually snapped a head bolt due to this. I doubt that it will be leaking where it's cracked, that seems to be on the outside of the block and it doesn't look all that fresh. But - do you feel lucky?

It could also have been there from a prior job by an overzealous mechanic.

Yeah it held the torque, I did not use an impact.
I doubt its from a prior mechanic, the car was bought from Mike's Brother at DMC Midwest.

Thinking I could remove that head bolt, and re torque it, It was torqued to 15lbs and then 115 degrees. It felt like it was holding through the full 115 degree rotation

[DMCMW Dave]

Yeah it held the torque, I did not use an impact.
I doubt its from a prior mechanic, the car was bought from Mike's Brother at DMC Midwest.

Thinking I could remove that head bolt, and re torque it, It was torqued to 15lbs and then 115 degrees. It felt like it was holding through the full 115 degree rotation

Very strange failure, IIRC that was a pretty clean and original car, although I haven't personally seen it in a very long time.

[Parzival]

Very strange failure, IIRC that was a pretty clean and original car, although I haven't personally seen it in a very long time.

Like you said, shit happens I guess.

[Parzival]

I mean, its real nice, and as you remember it, sadly I've just had a strand of really bad luck with it.
Sadly all the money I've put into it is now null and void, as it all has to be done over again.

[David T]

Because you can never know if all of your work has been done correctly till you hear the motor start, a mistake or an overlooked defect can get by and not be discovered till you are nearly finished. Even the "experts" don't always get it right the first time. For one of the biggest disasters just look at the Hubble Space Telescope. Consider it a minor set-back and try again. Things like this happen to everybody. All is not lost.

[JBaker4981]

Hey man, I read this thread earlier today and I'm so sorry that you are dealing with this. I believe the other motor in the FS section was sold but this just popped up from Dave Tavres. Complete engine is 3k which is a steal IMO

PRV For Sale - Baltimore (https://baltimore.craigslist.org/pts/d/parkville-delorean-v6-prv-engine-5/7058172617.html)

[cis6409]

That's a real shocker very sorry to read this , but keep the head up you've come so far.. You will get there!

Take a step back and asess your options and go on from there

Shane

[David T]

Sometimes working on cars seems like a Sisyphean task. Look it up. And stay away form large boulders.

[Tomcio]

Looking at the pictures I would say that this block can be saved. The crack doesn't seem very bad and since it's holding the torque the block itself is probably good. I'd say there is a 95% chance of saving it.
See if you can find a good and reputable welder with a mobile shop so he can come out to the car and fix it. You will need to remove the bolt and probably the entire head just to make sure the heat of welding doesn't do any more damage. The crack will need to be opened up, cleaned and TIG welded. The weld will need to be pretty deep and the thread will need to be cleaned up afterwards. Actually, when I think about it now I'm adding another 3% to the chances of saving it - the chances of saving the block are now at 98% :thumbup:

Just to make sure, you did soak the head bolts in oil before assembly, right? And you did use new bolts I'm sure...

Don't give up! It can be fixed! And I'm sure it will be cheaper than replacing the engine.

[Parzival]

Looking at the pictures I would say that this block can be saved. The crack doesn't seem very bad and since it's holding the torque the block itself is probably good. I'd say there is a 95% chance of saving it.
See if you can find a good and reputable welder with a mobile shop so he can come out to the car and fix it. You will need to remove the bolt and probably the entire head just to make sure the heat of welding doesn't do any more damage. The crack will need to be opened up, cleaned and TIG welded. The weld will need to be pretty deep and the thread will need to be cleaned up afterwards. Actually, when I think about it now I'm adding another 3% to the chances of saving it - the chances of saving the block are now at 98% :thumbup:

Just to make sure, you did soak the head bolts in oil before assembly, right? And you did use new bolts I'm sure...

Don't give up! It can be fixed! And I'm sure it will be cheaper than replacing the engine.

Yeah, DMC Florida consulted with DMC Huston, and then said since it’s so close to being fully assembled I should put it together and see if it leaks. So maybe it will be ok as is? But they said try it, and then if I really need a new one we can go from there.

[DMC-Ron]

JB Weld - What's to lose?

[Parzival]

JB Weld - What's to lose?

If I put it back together and it’s not leaking there, should I bother?

[Rich_NYS]

Sorry to see that, man.

My 0.02: I agree that since you're so close to completion, you haven't much to lose by seeing if it holds.
I also believe it can be fixed I'd necessary. I agree JB Weld is worth a try, an "undercut" would probably help a lot in this case.

[DMC-Ron]

I believe it would be worth trying the JB weld before running the engine. The concern here is the crack may worsen with engine pressure and vibration. JB weld may not prevent this. It might crack right along with the block. But I have seen JB weld do some amazing things. I repaired a puncture in an aluminum engine block and it has held for years. However, this situation looks to be a more challenging application for the product. Still, it may just take a little support from the JB to keep the crack from propagating.

Doing an undercut would normally be good practice to give the JB more grip, but I would be reluctant in this case because of the crack location near the head bolt. I would recommend you just clean the area with brake cleaner and wire brush. Get all oil and grease removed and rough up the surface. Just before your ready to apply the JB, put a very small amount of moly lube on the exposed bolt thread. Again, a very small amount applied with a toothpick or jeweler screwdriver. This is simply to keep the JB from adhering directly to the bolt thread. Then follow the application instructions. I use nitrite gloves to spread and work the JB in with strong finger pressure. You're using the JB for two functions. First to add a structural surface coating to prevent the crack from worsening, and second to seal the hole where there might be a potential leak.

Best of luck. We're all pulling for you.
Ron

[SamHill]

Sounds like others have had some success layering JB Weld over several days as well. Kind of on the fence, because you'll always be checking on it even if it holds for years.

[David T]

I agree you should continue and see if it does actually leak. You can do the JB Weld but I doubt it will be of any use except to cover the mess up so you can't see what what happens, if it leaks or gets worse. For the epoxy repair to work the surfaces must be clean. No way you will get it clean enough. Also JB Weld is not meant for, or is strong enough for this kind of repair. Having tried this kind of block repair on blocks that were cracked from freezing, even if it works it won't last.

[Bitsyncmaster]

Epoxy is not really made to work at engine block temperatures. But since others have had luck with it why not try. I'm not sure a welder could get a TIG torch into that tight location and make a good weld.

[SamHill]

Didn't Farrar or somebody have some relatable experience with this?

[Parzival]

Didn't Farrar or somebody have some relatable experience with this?

He had block rot, and replaced his engine I believe.

[Parzival]

Over due update!
I hate reading dead end treads,
The car was not down for long, DMC FL came out and picked up my car, and with some digging we found an upper crank case, they put it all toghether and its been running great ever since.
Posting here for good housekeeping ;)

[cis6409]

Great to hear!

[Timeless]

Good news!

[Riley88]

Over due update!
I hate reading dead end treads,
The car was not down for long, DMC FL came out and picked up my car, and with some digging we found an upper crank case, they put it all toghether and its been running great ever since.
Posting here for good housekeeping ;)
Was just thinking of your car the other day wondering if you were able to get what you needed. Great to hear dude!