Drivetrain Refurb questions

[Trstno1]

I’m about to pull my manual transmission to do a bunch of work on 5625. I was going to replace the clutch, rear main seal, clutch master, clutch slave, clutch line from plastic to braided, and potentially crack the transmission open to change out the 2nd gear roll pin.

This is all to fix a rear main seal leak, a clutch slave cylinder leak, and an issue with shifting into 2nd gear when the vehicle is cold.

What are the things I need to take special attention to while doing to prevent more issues than I want?

Will I need to drain the engine oil prior to pulling the rear main seal?

Does anyone have pictures on how they braced the engine prior to pulling the transmission?

Does anyone have pictures on exactly what to disconect on the cross gate cable as to not screw up the adjustments?

As always, thank you in advance for all your help!

[dn010]

I’m about to pull my manual transmission to do a bunch of work on 5625. I was going to replace the clutch, rear main seal, clutch master, clutch slave, clutch line from plastic to braided, and potentially crack the transmission open to change out the 2nd gear roll pin.

This is all to fix a rear main seal leak, a clutch slave cylinder leak, and an issue with shifting into 2nd gear when the vehicle is cold.

What are the things I need to take special attention to while doing to prevent more issues than I want?

Will I need to drain the engine oil prior to pulling the rear main seal?

Does anyone have pictures on how they braced the engine prior to pulling the transmission?

Does anyone have pictures on exactly what to disconect on the cross gate cable as to not screw up the adjustments?

As always, thank you in advance for all your help!


I also had issues with 2nd gear. I replaced the roll pin because I was in the transmission at one time fixing some other damaged items. However my issues remained. It wasn't until I installed a new crossgate cable (101363), bushing kit (K100776) and adjusted everything, that I finally solved my 2nd gear issues. It was a huge difference shifting with these new parts.

[Trstno1]

I also had issues with 2nd gear. I replaced the roll pin because I was in the transmission at one time fixing some other damaged items. However my issues remained. It wasn't until I installed a new crossgate cable (101363), bushing kit (K100776) and adjusted everything, that I finally solved my 2nd gear issues. It was a huge difference shifting with these new parts.

Huh...interesting. What was your original 2nd gear issue? The same as mine? I seem to only have issues when the vehicle is cold. When it warms up, no issues at all getting it into 2nd.

[dn010]

When cold, it would either not go into gear or grind terribly, so much that I would skip 2nd gear altogether it was that bad. When everything was warm I would still sometimes have an issue downshifting into second where I would think it was in gear but once I hit the gas it would just rev. Now it goes into gear and doesn't grind regardless of temp and I don't have to force the shifter.

Your combination of leaking slave cylinder, plastic line, worn bushings or a misadjustment might be enough to cause issues until the gear oil has warmed up.

[Bitsyncmaster]

You may want to read my thread when I pulled the tranny.

http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?16661-Clutch-replace/page3

[mark w]

i just refreshed my transmission replaced the 2nd gear pin and red loctited the two big nuts on the end.

if you are pulling the transmission.....and these two things have not yet been done- then do it.

my 15K mile car - the 2nd gear roll pin was bent on the top side, and broken off (and stuck to the magnet inside) on the bottom side.
my large shaft nuts were not very tight but had not yet backed off.

you need several tools to do the job, best to get the Renault transmission manual for un1 and un5 transmissions, as the DMC does not have all the details.



Mark

[vwdmc16]

I also had shifting problems with my car when I got it. , 2nd gear going into 3rd gear and popping out of 5th gear. . When I change transmission fluid from regular gear oil to Redline MTL, The shifting improve greatly in 2nd and 3rd when cold and hot.

Eventually, I did a full transmission reseal and freshening. . My second gear roll pins were all broken. So fixing that and reinforcing them really improve second gear. . My 5th gear still had issues popping out on deceleration. That was not fixed until I rebuilt the shifter mechanism. In the front of the car.

[Trstno1]

You may want to read my thread when I pulled the tranny.

http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?16661-Clutch-replace/page3

Will do, thanks!

[Trstno1]

i just refreshed my transmission replaced the 2nd gear pin and red loctited the two big nuts on the end.

if you are pulling the transmission.....and these two things have not yet been done- then do it.

my 15K mile car - the 2nd gear roll pin was bent on the top side, and broken off (and stuck to the magnet inside) on the bottom side.
my large shaft nuts were not very tight but had not yet backed off.

you need several tools to do the job, best to get the Renault transmission manual for un1 and un5 transmissions, as the DMC does not have all the details.



Mark

Wow! That tranny looks beautiful! I sure wish I had the time to make that happen! When you say several tools, what do you mean? specialty tools? Also, did you make any videos cataloging your refurb?

[David T]

If you have trouble with 2nd gear all the time you probably need the roll pin. If it only happens when cold, you should switch to Redline. Check for any worn or loose parts in the shift linkage. Get the 2 big nuts really tight and use Locktite. Check the mounts for cracks. Some of the vendors sell a pin to put INSIDE the new roll pin (a smaller one) just to make it stronger. Make sure the 5th gear fork is not bent. Watch out for the detent springs and balls.

[dn010]

I don't see that your rear main questions where addressed. You shouldn't have to drain the oil to change the seal. Make sure the new seal comes with the gasket for the plate the seal rides in. When you get the plate off, take a picture of how far in the hole in the plate that the seal is installed. It will be important if your crankshaft is scored from the seal lip - if the seal is all the way in the plate, install the new seal a little bit further out - there should be enough room in the plate. This will result in the new seal missing the score on the crank. Make sure you support the plate when installing the new seal or you'll warp the plate.

When I removed my transmission, I used a tow strap from the front of the engine to the rear sway bar to keep it from moving. You can also use a bottle jack under the engine to accomplish this.

I don't recall a need for specialty tools, maybe a large socket for the shaft nuts. I do recall having a hard time trying to find anaerobic sealant for sealing the transmission halves upon assembly but this is back when I lived in a tiny upstate NY town 15 years ago-it may be readily available in your local store. Make sure you order everything you need all in one shot, nothing like realizing you need something and then waiting another week for parts to arrive. Other things you should replace while you're at it is the bellows 103131 and seal 103049 along with the seals for the drive axles if those are leaking. I again recommend a new bushing kit for the shifting linkage and a new crossgate cable. I thought my old crossgate cable was good until I got the new one and compared. I even tried to grease the old one with no luck.

Biggest thing I can tell you when you are putting the transmission back together: do not go by the DeLorean manual for installing the differential, you will install it backwards. Be sure that you DO NOT INSTALL THE DIFFERENTIAL BACKWARDS! You'll be heartbroken when you go to pull your car out of garage and can't because you have 5 reverse gears and 1 forward. I made this mistake- nothing like having to drain your new transmission fluid, remove the transmission, crack it back open, etc.

[SS Spoiler]

amen to the backwards diff gear!!!!

[Trstno1]

I don't see that your rear main questions where addressed. You shouldn't have to drain the oil to change the seal. Make sure the new seal comes with the gasket for the plate the seal rides in. When you get the plate off, take a picture of how far in the hole in the plate that the seal is installed. It will be important if your crankshaft is scored from the seal lip - if the seal is all the way in the plate, install the new seal a little bit further out - there should be enough room in the plate. This will result in the new seal missing the score on the crank. Make sure you support the plate when installing the new seal or you'll warp the plate.

When I removed my transmission, I used a tow strap from the front of the engine to the rear sway bar to keep it from moving. You can also use a bottle jack under the engine to accomplish this.

I don't recall a need for specialty tools, maybe a large socket for the shaft nuts. I do recall having a hard time trying to find anaerobic sealant for sealing the transmission halves upon assembly but this is back when I lived in a tiny upstate NY town 15 years ago-it may be readily available in your local store. Make sure you order everything you need all in one shot, nothing like realizing you need something and then waiting another week for parts to arrive. Other things you should replace while you're at it is the bellows 103131 and seal 103049 along with the seals for the drive axles if those are leaking. I again recommend a new bushing kit for the shifting linkage and a new crossgate cable. I thought my old crossgate cable was good until I got the new one and compared. I even tried to grease the old one with no luck.

Biggest thing I can tell you when you are putting the transmission back together: do not go by the DeLorean manual for installing the differential, you will install it backwards. Be sure that you DO NOT INSTALL THE DIFFERENTIAL BACKWARDS! You'll be heartbroken when you go to pull your car out of garage and can't because you have 5 reverse gears and 1 forward. I made this mistake- nothing like having to drain your new transmission fluid, remove the transmission, crack it back open, etc.

Thank you for all the good info. I may just try the bushings and crossgate cable this time around without cracking open the tranny at all. Ill see if replacing everything else that I already have parts for ends up solving my problem.

[David T]

As long as the transmission is already out, opening it up isn't that big a deal. You should open it to inspect the roll pin, the 5th gear fork, and the 2 big nuts at a minimum.

[Trstno1]

And it starts.... I have the car up on blocks, and have already drained and pulled the master cylinder, plastic clutch line, and rock guards. Tomorrow, I’ll disconnect the axles and the starter..... fun fun! Can anyone tell me exactly what I should be disconnecting on the front of the transmission by the cross gate cable? just the bracket that holds it right? I would prefer not to have to reset the setting.

[DMC-81]

And it starts.... I have the car up on blocks, and have already drained and pulled the master cylinder, plastic clutch line, and rock guards. Tomorrow, I’ll disconnect the axles and the starter..... fun fun! Can anyone tell me exactly what I should be disconnecting on the front of the transmission by the cross gate cable? just the bracket that holds it right? I would prefer not to have to reset the setting.

Yes. I disconnected the just the bracket so I wouldn't have to readjust everything.

Here is another refurb tread to reference if if helps.

http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?14544-5-Speed-gearbox-flaw-repair

There is also tons of pictures and comments in the Manual transmission repair and restoration album on my profile.

Good luck.

[David T]

Figure on at least checking and maybe tweaking that adjustment anyway. Drain the transaxle so you don't make a mess. The procedure in the Workshop Manual is pretty good. F:05:01. You didn't have to raise it so high.

[Trstno1]

Yes. I disconnected the just the bracket so I wouldn't have to readjust everything.

Here is another refurb tread to reference if if helps.

http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?14544-5-Speed-gearbox-flaw-repair

There is also tons of pictures and comments in the Manual transmission repair and restoration album on my profile.

Good luck.

Nice reference, thanks!

[Trstno1]

Figure on at least checking and maybe tweaking that adjustment anyway. Drain the transaxle so you don't make a mess. The procedure in the Workshop Manual is pretty good. F:05:01. You didn't have to raise it so high.

Drain the transaxle.....check. Btw, does anyone have a pic of the redline ppl are talking about?

[Trstno1]

Drain the transaxle.....check. Btw, does anyone have a pic of the redline ppl are talking about?

What sort of tool do I need to get the transaxle drain plug off? Is it reverse thread? I’m just rounding it with what ever I try. PIA!

[WHO1DMC]

Drain plug tool is a 10mm drain plug socket female.
The redline is a brand name for the oil,lubricants being used.
Drain plug is rightey tighty lefty loosey or normal.


Dave B

[Trstno1]

Drain plug tool is a 10mm drain plug socket female.
The redline is a brand name for the oil,lubricants being used.
Drain plug is rightey tighty lefty loosey or normal.


Dave B

much appreciated! I’ll give it a little more muscle. Thx.

[Bitsyncmaster]

much appreciated! I’ll give it a little more muscle. Thx.

Heat usually breaks it loose. I've welded a standard nut on it and then it comes off easy from the welding heat.

[Rich]

Drain the transaxle.....check. Btw, does anyone have a pic of the redline ppl are talking about?

This works:

https://www.redlineoil.com/75w90-ns-gl-5-gear-oil

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=62759&d=1582825024

Bought mine at a local speed shop and took it to my local indy shop when I needed to drain/refill.

Turned out my indy shop uses the exact same brand/type of oil so I could've saved myself the shopping trip.

Castrol Syntrax 75W90 GL5 synthetic might be an alternate. NAPA Auto carries that. Forum comments welcome on the Castrol.

[Trstno1]

This works:

https://www.redlineoil.com/75w90-ns-gl-5-gear-oil

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=62759&d=1582825024

Bought mine at a local speed shop and took it to my local indy shop when I needed to drain/refill.

Turned out my indy shop uses the exact same brand/type of oil so I could've saved myself the shopping trip.

Castrol Syntrax 75W90 GL5 synthetic might be an alternate. NAPA Auto carries that. Forum comments welcome on the Castrol.

Nice, thanks for the photo. Now I know what I’m looking for.

[Trstno1]

Heat usually breaks it loose. I've welded a standard nut on it and then it comes off easy from the welding heat.

Winner Winner......heat did it for me. Though i will be now purchasing a new drain plug as I narled up that one pretty good. But at least she’s draining..... Thanks for the tip.

[Trstno1]

OK......

I got the axles out, starter disconnected, transmission drained, cross gate cable brackets disconnected. I’m getting closer...

Though I do have a question. The shop manual is not very clear on how to disconnect the brackets that hold the transmission to the frame. which brackets do I unbolt? It seems if I unbolt from the frame, everything wont clear the coolant pipes. hmmmm... pic 1 , pic 2, or pic 3??

[Bitsyncmaster]

Yes all those brackets at the frond need to be removed from the transmission or they will hit the coolant pipes when you move the transmission forward to get it off the engine. I had left one on and was able to get the tranny out but it hit the coolant pipes.

[Trstno1]

Yes all those brackets at the frond need to be removed from the transmission or they will hit the coolant pipes when you move the transmission forward to get it off the engine. I had left one on and was able to get the tranny out but it hit the coolant pipes.

ok, all of the above comes out... Thx.

Also, is there really any reason to replace the transmission mounts? I'm thinking the rubber has to be old and petrified by now. I think DeloreanGo makes new ones. Or, are they fine?

[David T]

The rubber should be OK but it is always a good idea to examine them. Also check for any cracking, especially the left mount. On one car I found the metal mount had cracked.

[Trstno1]

OK!.....Not a job I would want to do every other week, but..... the transmission is out!! :cheers:

An what I suspected was happening in actuality. I have a horrible rear main seal leak, and my slave cylinder seals were shot and leaking like a sieve down through the bell housing. I have quite the mess to clean up. So, what is the best practice for cleaning all this gunk up? engine degreaser? steam cleaner? oven cleaner? I am all ears.....

Also, I have no idea why my pictures came out sideways. No matter how I saved them they uploaded like that.

[DMC-81]

OK!.....Not a job I would want to do every other week, but..... the transmission is out!! :cheers:

An what I suspected was happening in actuality. I have a horrible rear main seal leak, and my slave cylinder seals were shot and leaking like a sieve down through the bell housing. I have quite the mess to clean up. So, what is the best practice for cleaning all this gunk up? engine degreaser? steam cleaner? oven cleaner? I am all ears.....

Also, I have no idea why my pictures came out sideways. No matter how I saved them they uploaded like that.

Good progress! I had a similar slave leak. I used engine degreaser to break up the sludge, and then soda blasted the case. I'd avoid oven cleaner as it is corrosive to aluminum.

Before:
http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=49607&d=1489883034

After:
http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=49960&d=1490830020

[Trstno1]

Good progress! I had a similar slave leak. I used engine degreaser to break up the sludge, and then soda blasted the case. I'd avoid oven cleaner as it is corrosive to aluminum.

Before:
http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=49607&d=1489883034

After:
http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=49960&d=1490830020

Did you have to take the transmission apart to soda blast it or did you keep it all together? Is there anything I should cover up prior to soda blasting? What blaster did you use?

[David T]

Brakclean but be careful with it and use eye protection. Or any solvent and rags, depends on how messy you want to get and how clean you want to make it.

[Trstno1]

Good progress! I had a similar slave leak. I used engine degreaser to break up the sludge, and then soda blasted the case. I'd avoid oven cleaner as it is corrosive to aluminum.

Before:
http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=49607&d=1489883034

After:
http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=49960&d=1490830020

Holy cow! Disregard. I just came upon your transmission rebuild thread. Wow!

[Trstno1]

What flywheel lock tool is everyone using to get the clutch flex-plate and flywheel off?

[DMC-81]

What flywheel lock tool is everyone using to get the clutch flex-plate and flywheel off?

Here is the one I bought/used:
http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?6310-Flywheel-Lock-tool-Easier-way-of-removing-Crankshaft-nut

[Trstno1]

Here is the one I bought/used:
http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?6310-Flywheel-Lock-tool-Easier-way-of-removing-Crankshaft-nut

Thanks for the info. I did however find a different way via YouTube University. I Used a block of wood to hold the flex plate against the frame to get the flex plate bolts broke. Then used a wrench between a flex plate bolt and transmission to engine bolt to brake the fly wheel bolts. Worked Great!

[DMC-81]

Thanks for the info. I did however find a different way via YouTube University. I Used a block of wood to hold the flex plate against the frame to get the flex plate bolts broke. Then used a wrench between a flex plate bolt and transmission to engine bolt to brake the fly wheel bolts. Worked Great!

Cool. That works! :)

[Trstno1]

Progress for the day.... clutch is off, flywheel is off.

Man! that rear main seal really made a mess of things!

I do have a couple of questions.

1. Who in the community re-surfaces flywheels? and do I really even need it?

2. I noticed my replacement clutch only has 4 springs vs the one that I took out that has 8. Is that an issue?

3. Do I even nee to remove/re-seal the rear seal plate? or do I just remove/replace the rear main seal? - Where exactly is the leak coming from? the seal or the seal plate? Will there be more crud behind the seal plate?

4. Is there anything on the back of the motor that I should cover up prior to getting going on gunk?

[David T]

You have the flywheel ground if you see scoring or blue spots or cracks. Any good automotive machine shop should be able to do it locally. The springs you are referring to ( 4 vs 8) are only to reduce the shock of engagement and you should be fine. The springs that really matter are the ones that press the pressure plate against the friction plate and the flywheel. Remove the plate and reseal it too, it could also be leaking. If you use a product like Gunk, it is recommended to rinse with water. Don't let the Gunk or water get inside the motor or anything electrical.

[DMC-81]

Progress for the day.... clutch is off, flywheel is off.

Man! that rear main seal really made a mess of things!

I do have a couple of questions.

1. Who in the community re-surfaces flywheels? and do I really even need it?

2. I noticed my replacement clutch only has 4 springs vs the one that I took out that has 8. Is that an issue?

3. Do I even nee to remove/re-seal the rear seal plate? or do I just remove/replace the rear main seal? - Where exactly is the leak coming from? the seal or the seal plate? Will there be more crud behind the seal plate?

4. Is there anything on the back of the motor that I should cover up prior to getting going on gunk?

1) like a good brake job the includes rotor turning/ replacement, I would recommend getting the flywheel resurfaced. Hopefully you can find a local machine shop to do it. I called around and used a well recommended shop. Some tips to avoid problems:
- the shop needs to remove the 3 dowels that hold the pressure plate before resurfacing and then replace them.
- our flywheel is a stepped version. The shop needs to measure and maintain the step during resurfacing.
- clean any rust off the 3 dowels and if necessary, remove any extra flashing in the holes in the new pressure plate. The plate needs to sit flush to the flywheel without needing to torque it in place. Basically, trial fit the pressure plate after resurfacing to ensure proper but tight fit.

2) Shouldn't be any issue. I have the Valeo clutch and it works and holds great.

3) I would definitely recommend removing, cleaning, and resealing the plate.

4). No, I cleaned that area as well. A nylon and brass brush helps to get into those ribbed areas.

[mark w]

when you soda blasted the transmission case, did you plug the vent hole?

[DMC-81]

when you soda blasted the transmission case, did you plug the vent hole?

Hi. I took the gearbox apart and blasted each case part, but if you do't have to take it apart, I would definitely seal the vent hole and mask around any seal areas.

[Trstno1]

1) like a good brake job the includes rotor turning/ replacement, I would recommend getting the flywheel resurfaced. Hopefully you can find a local machine shop to do it. I called around and used a well recommended shop. Some tips to avoid problems:
- the shop needs to remove the 3 dowels that hold the pressure plate before resurfacing and then replace them.
- our flywheel is a stepped version. The shop needs to measure and maintain the step during resurfacing.
- clean any rust off the 3 dowels and if necessary, remove any extra flashing in the holes in the new pressure plate. The plate needs to sit flush to the flywheel without needing to torque it in place. Basically, trial fit the pressure plate after resurfacing to ensure proper but tight fit.

2) Shouldn't be any issue. I have the Valeo clutch and it works and holds great.

3) I would definitely recommend removing, cleaning, and resealing the plate.

4). No, I cleaned that area as well. A nylon and brass brush helps to get into those ribbed areas.

Hey - thanks for the reply. Ill see what I can do about finding someone local to re-surface. If I find one, what is the step supposed to measure?
Otherwise I think DPI offers resurfaced one's for like $230, with a core return of course. Does anyone sell new ones? $230 for a re-surfaced flywheel with 2 way shipping from Alaska seems pretty steep.

Also, what kind of RTV sealant is everyone using on the rear seal plate and transmission? I want something that I will not have to worry about leaking. I've heard of people using the right stuff on the rear seal plate w/o the paper seal. Thoughts?

[DMC-81]

Hey - thanks for the reply. Ill see what I can do about finding someone local to re-surface. If I find one, what is the step supposed to measure?
Otherwise I think DPI offers resurfaced one's for like $230, with a core return of course. Does anyone sell new ones? $230 for a re-surfaced flywheel with 2 way shipping from Alaska seems pretty steep.

Also, what kind of RTV sealant is everyone using on the rear seal plate and transmission? I want something that I will not have to worry about leaking. I've heard of people using the right stuff on the rear seal plate w/o the paper seal. Thoughts?

You are welcome. $230.00 is expensive. I had mine done for around $100.00. Apparently there is no official spec for the step (per Stephen Wynne) but you are just supposed to maintain the existing step. Mine was .020 inches and the machine shop maintained that.

Before:
http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=49664&d=1490061943
After:
http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=49665&d=1490062026

DMCFL installed my rear main seal and they used Right Stuff, but I don' know if they also used the paper gasket. I believe with that product you don't have to.

[Trstno1]

I didn't get any photos of the visqueen cocoon I created around the back of the engine to protect everything else prior to cleaning. However, the results are in and the difference is huge!!:jawdrop:
Next up..... pulling off the rear seal plate and swapping out the rear main seal and sealing it all back up.

[Trstno1]

Old rear main out, and new one installed into the backing plate.

Does anyone know what the torque specs are for the backing plate hardware? Or even the flywheel bolts or the pressure plate bolts? What kind of Loctite do I need to use on this stuff? Blue 242 or Red 271?

Also - I was going to seal up the backing plate with the Right Stuff w/o the paper gasket. Can anyone tell me if I should apply the Right stuff in a continuous bead or just do the smear job on both surfaces? I don't want this sucker to leak anymore!

[Trstno1]

Hi. I took the gearbox apart and blasted each case part, but if you do't have to take it apart, I would definitely seal the vent hole and mask around any seal areas.

I think I am going to take the transmission apart to clean it ups, swap out the 2nd gear roll pin, and check the end nuts.

Did you soda blast it yourself? And if so, could you list the gun and blasting material you used? Thx

[DMC-81]

I think I am going to take the transmission apart to clean it ups, swap out the 2nd gear roll pin, and check the end nuts.

Did you soda blast it yourself? And if so, could you list the gun and blasting material you used? Thx

Cool, that's a good plan. Yes, I soda blasted it myself. I used a gun like this only mine was from Eastwood. It worked good. I'd probably try the Harbor Freight one as it is available in the same store as the media:

https://www.harborfreight.com/21-oz-hopper-gravity-feed-spot-blaster-gun-95793.html

and Armex medium soda:
https://www.harborfreight.com/50-lbs-medium-grade-armex-soda-blast-media-65929.html
It is made by Arm & Hammer.

**Also here's a tip for anyone with a pool. You can also use this soda media in place of "Alkinality increaser", as it is the same ingredient (sodium bicarbonate) but cheaper per pound versus the pool store.

[mark w]

Old rear main out, and new one installed into the backing plate.

Does anyone know what the torque specs are for the backing plate hardware? Or even the flywheel bolts or the pressure plate bolts? What kind of Loctite do I need to use on this stuff? Blue 242 or Red 271?

Also - I was going to seal up the backing plate with the Right Stuff w/o the paper gasket. Can anyone tell me if I should apply the Right stuff in a continuous bead or just do the smear job on both surfaces? I don't want this sucker to leak anymore!

the backing plate should be sealed with hylomar on the vertical surface and with anerobic sealant on the bottom edge. the bottom edge is critical for aligment on the driveshaft, so that the seal is centered, you dont want any sealant in that gap, causing it to sit "too high" or out of alignment.

the flywheel bolt spec is in the manual- 45 ft-lbs
the pressure plate 6 allen head bolts is 15 ft lbs
the backing plate allen head bolts are ....i cant find this right now.

[Trstno1]

the backing plate should be sealed with hylomar on the vertical surface and with anerobic sealant on the bottom edge. the bottom edge is critical for aligment on the driveshaft, so that the seal is centered, you dont want any sealant in that gap, causing it to sit "too high" or out of alignment.

the flywheel bolt spec is in the manual- 45 ft-lbs
the pressure plate 6 allen head bolts is 15 ft lbs
the backing plate allen head bolts are ....i cant find this right now.

Do you have any pictures of this? Wouldn't the thickness of the anerobic sealant on the bottom edge be just the same as any other sealant? as long as all of the backing plate mount holes line up, I should be good right?

[mark w]

Wouldn't the thickness of the anerobic sealant on the bottom edge be just the same as any other sealant? as long as all of the backing plate mount holes line up, I should be good right?

no, and no.

Its whats in the service manual.

also, you need to tighten the two longer bolts from the bottom first, then the ones around the flange.

[Trstno1]

Flywheel back from being re-surfaced! Big difference. Now I can get the flywheel, pilot bearing and clutch installed. Next, I move my attention to the transmission.....:wrenchin:

[DMC-81]

Flywheel back from being re-surfaced! Big difference. Now I can get the flywheel, pilot bearing and clutch installed. Next, I move my attention to the transmission.....:wrenchin:

Looks good! Did the machine shop give the 3 dowel pins to you separately? (I don't see them in the finished product, but maybe they are in the bag above.)

[Trstno1]

Looks good! Did the machine shop give the 3 dowel pins to you separately? (I don't see them in the finished product, but maybe they are in the bag above.)

yeah, I have them. I just need to tap them back in.

[Trstno1]

Lot's of work done! The Transmission is apart!

I found a sheared part of a roll pin when I took it apart. Not sure which gear its from, but just glancing looks like it was the 2nd gear roll pin.

Can you guys tell anything by looking at the end of the output shaft nuts? do they look proper? or do I just need to torque them down?

[Trstno1]

So..after removing the gears from the side of the transmission housing and placing them aside, I picked up the casing and found a ball bearing underneath it. Where in the heck does it go?? I cant find it anywhere in the diagrams...… sorta freaking out here.

The pic is the side of transmission casing that I lifted up. The ball bearing was beneath it.

[painterdave72]

it should be for the 5tth gear detent I believe

[Trstno1]

it should be for the 5tth gear detent I believe

Unfortunatly not...... I have the 5th gear spring and ball detent set aside and accounted for.

This one came from somewhere else....

Maybe from under one of the other shift forks?

[Trstno1]

I only removed the 5th gear ball detention on purpose prior to cracking the case open. Looking online, they say you are supposed to have 5 ball detents in the photo, but i only count 4. I’m not even sure how to check the other ball detents to see if they are there. Anyone have any insight on this one?

[DMC-81]

Unfortunatly not...... I have the 5th gear spring and ball detent set aside and accounted for.

This one came from somewhere else....

Maybe from under one of the other shift forks?

Hi. Yes, if you removed a shift fork, there is a spring and ball bearing in a moulded cavity underneath the shift rod. To reinstall it, put the spring in the cavity, and the ball bearing on top. Then depress the ball bearing with a wooden dowel (or similar tool) while sliding the shift rod back in place. Once the rod passes the ball bearing, it will hold the ball in place. Be sure to lube with gear oil.

This is the hole where you press with the dowel:
63032

[Trstno1]

Hi. Yes, if you removed a shift fork, there is a spring and ball bearing in a moulded cavity underneath the shift rod. To reinstall it, put the spring in the cavity, and the ball bearing on top. Then depress the ball bearing with a wooden dowel (or similar tool) while sliding the shift rod back in place. Once the rod passes the ball bearing, it will hold in place. Be sure to lube with gear oil.

Uh oh.....i wonder if I’m missing a spring now.....dang! I was moving the rods all over the place trying to figure out how to remove them. Still haven’t figured that out....

The manual doesn’t cover this part very well. Is there any literature or video of servicing the shift rods? Removal/re-installation sort of stuff, etc.? I’m not even sure how to replace the roll pins for 2nd gear. Can you pound the pin out with a punch and simply install another one behind it? Are the pins supposed to be equidistant through the shift rod?

[Trstno1]

Looks like I forgot to post the pics of the output shaft nuts and the 2nd gear roll pins. Let me know what you think.

[DMC-81]

Uh oh.....i wonder if I’m missing a spring now.....dang! I was moving the rods all over the place trying to figure out how to remove them. Still haven’t figured that out....

The manual doesn’t cover this part very well. Is there any literature or video of servicing the shift rods? Removal/re-installation sort of stuff, etc.? I’m not even sure how to replace the roll pins for 2nd gear. Can you pound out the pin with a punch and simply install another one?

The spring may still be in the cavity. If you have the 5th gear detent ball accounted for, and the only other one moved was the reverse rod, then check that. Slide it out until you can see in the cavity through the the access hole. Cover the hole while you do this in case a ball /spring is ejected from it. You'll probably see just the spring in the cavity.

To completely remove the rod, you punch out all the pins, and slide the rod back from the case while catching the detent ball with your other hand.

[DMC-81]

Looks like I forgot to post the pics of the output shaft nuts and the 2nd gear roll pins. Let me know what you think.

Thanks for the pictures. The fork should be inside the larger roll pin, and the pin should be flush with the fork without causing clearance issues with the gear that will be below it. It also looks like there is a missing smaller pin, unless it is not visible.

There should be 2 smaller pins and one bigger pin that holds the fork within its range of movement (so that it can give a little against the spring).

Here is a picture of my 1-2 shift fork. Note the orientation of the pins so that the open part of the pin is away from where it has to hold the fork. Also note the 2 even smaller pins inside the 2 smaller pins. This is how you strengthen/renforce them.


http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=49943&d=1490828275

[Trstno1]

The spring may still be in the cavity. If you have the 5th gear detent ball accounted for, and the only other one moved was the reverse rod, then check that. Slide it out until you can see in the cavity through the the access hole. Cover the hole while you do this in case a ball /spring is ejected from it. You'll probably see just the spring in the cavity.

To completely remove the rod, you punch out all the pins, and slide the rod back from the case while catching the detent ball with your other hand.

You sir are a genius! I moved the reverse rod enough that the ball detent fell out through the reverse switch hole and under the casing. I moved the rods, saw the spring, put the ball detent back in/doweled and its all back in safe and sound. How that spring didn’t shoot out I’ll never know.... Atleast now I can sleep tonight! Thank you!

[Trstno1]

Ok. I now know where 4 of the ball detents go. DMC online says that there are 5, where is the last one? Or is that a mistake? I just want to make sure I keep track of all the parts....

[Ron]

FWIW- "103123 BALL DETENT" is listed only 4 times in the parts manual...

[Trstno1]

Awesome! Thank you! I was hoping I didn't lose another one of those guys somewhere.

[DMC-81]

You sir are a genius! I moved the reverse rod enough that the ball detent fell out through the reverse switch hole and under the casing. I moved the rods, saw the spring, put the ball detent back in/doweled and its all back in safe and sound. How that spring didn’t shoot out I’ll never know.... Atleast now I can sleep tonight! Thank you!

You are welcome. I'm glad you got it sorted.

[David T]

You need to replace those roll pins. Some vendors sell a set where you install the new pin and stick a smaller one inside to strengthen it. Examine the 5th gear shift fork carefully it see if it is bent, Look along the flashing line on the outside. Torque and use Locktite on the 2 large nuts. Check the differential adjustment as per the manual.

[Trstno1]

You need to replace those roll pins. Some vendors sell a set where you install the new pin and stick a smaller one inside to strengthen it. Examine the 5th gear shift fork carefully it see if it is bent, Look along the flashing line on the outside. Torque and use Locktite on the 2 large nuts. Check the differential adjustment as per the manual.

I will definitely be replacing the roll pins. Check the 1st and 2nd shift bar. One roll pin was bent and the infamous one was completely broken. I have no idea how I was able to get into 2nd at all...:umm:

[Trstno1]

So....everywhere I read it says don't touch the Diff Adjustment nut. I have removed the lip seal for replacement. However I am going to be soda blasting and powder coating the transmission shell and am wondering if the Diff adjustment nut can stay installed throughout that process without being hurt. Thoughts?

[Trstno1]

Lots more work completed today. Transmission uninstalled down to the 4 pieces of shell ready for soda blasting and powder coating. Re-surfaced flywheel installed, new clutch and pressure plate installed. Things are moving pretty well, so I am happy with that.:cheers:

[David T]

You can use a punch and make a mark and count the # of turns but since you have the whole thing apart it can't hurt to do the adjustment. It is possible it was not properly adjusted before you took it apart. Doing that adjustment isn't that hard and with all of the work you already did, doing that adjustment isn't much more. Make sure you get everything clean. When you blast it gets into every nook and cranny. At least it is soda and not sand or grit. Make sure the vent hole is cleaned and not plugged. You probably will need to order a new seal for it. If you don't have a magnetic drain plug it is a nice thing to have, so order one of them too. Order a spare pivot bolt too. Another tip, to really crank on those big nuts you put the transmission into two gears at once so it can't turn.

[Trstno1]

You can use a punch and make a mark and count the # of turns but since you have the whole thing apart it can't hurt to do the adjustment. It is possible it was not properly adjusted before you took it apart. Doing that adjustment isn't that hard and with all of the work you already did, doing that adjustment isn't much more. Make sure you get everything clean. When you blast it gets into every nook and cranny. At least it is soda and not sand or grit. Make sure the vent hole is cleaned and not plugged. You probably will need to order a new seal for it. If you don't have a magnetic drain plug it is a nice thing to have, so order one of them too. Order a spare pivot bolt too. Another tip, to really crank on those big nuts you put the transmission into two gears at once so it can't turn.

Will do. Where might I find the procedure for the diff adjustment?

[Nicholas R]

Will do. Where might I find the procedure for the diff adjustment?

The procedure for the differential adjustment is in the shop manual. You do it by reassembling the case halves around the differential, WITHOUT the input and output shaft installed. All you're checking is how difficult it is to spin the differential bearings. You'll need a force meter of some sort to verify the value.

63095

Also, your second gear roll pin looks pretty bad; you definitely need to replace it.

The original size pins (or at least what the vendors sell you) are 20mm long pins. The 1st/2nd gear shaft has two 4x20mm pins and one 6x24mm pin. I don't know the reason for the 4mm pins being 4mm short (yes technically you just need 2 shear planes so the pin length shouldn't matter), but I always rebuild using 24mm long 4mm pins instead. The shaft is 16mm and the selector thickness is ~25.5mm so a 24mm long roll pin nests into it just fine.

The double up that people refer to (which is always a good idea) involves installing a 2.5mm pin inside the 4mm pin for 2nd gear.

Here is a photo for reference:
63090

To summarize:

Choose between these two--
4mm X 20mm - *original length* - qty 2 for the 1st/2nd gear selector - insert a 2.5mm x 20mm roll pin into the second gear pin
4mm x 24mm - *longer length* - qty 2 for the 1st/2nd gear selector - insert a 2.5mm x 24mm roll pin into the second gear pin

6mm x 24mm - qty 1 for the 1st/2nd gear selector

6mm x 24mm - qty 1 for the 3rd/4th gear selector

6mm x 50mm - qty 2 for output flanges

You can buy the pins from a DeLorean vendor, any hardware vendor (Fastenal, ACE Hardware, or do like I did and buy qty 50 of each from McMaster-Carr.com)

[Trstno1]

The procedure for the differential adjustment is in the shop manual. You do it by reassembling the case halves around the differential, WITHOUT the input and output shaft installed. All you're checking is how difficult it is to spin the differential bearings. You'll need a force meter of some sort to verify the value.

63095

Also, your second gear roll pin looks pretty bad; you definitely need to replace it.

The original size pins (or at least what the vendors sell you) are 20mm long pins. The 1st/2nd gear shaft has two 4x20mm pins and one 6x24mm pin. I don't know the reason for the 4mm pins being 4mm short (yes technically you just need 2 shear planes so the pin length shouldn't matter), but I always rebuild using 24mm long 4mm pins instead. The shaft is 16mm and the selector thickness is ~25.5mm so a 24mm long roll pin nests into it just fine.

The double up that people refer to (which is always a good idea) involves installing a 2.5mm pin inside the 4mm pin for 2nd gear.

Here is a photo for reference:
63090

To summarize:

Choose between these two--
4mm X 20mm - *original length* - qty 2 for the 1st/2nd gear selector - insert a 2.5mm x 20mm roll pin into the second gear pin
4mm x 24mm - *longer length* - qty 2 for the 1st/2nd gear selector - insert a 2.5mm x 24mm roll pin into the second gear pin

6mm x 24mm - qty 1 for the 1st/2nd gear selector

6mm x 24mm - qty 1 for the 3rd/4th gear selector

6mm x 50mm - qty 2 for output flanges

You can buy the pins from a DeLorean vendor, any hardware vendor (Fastenal, ACE Hardware, or do like I did and buy qty 50 of each from McMaster-Carr.com)

Hey - Thanks for all the info. I have the roll pin within a roll pin for 2nd gear replacement that I got from PJ Grady. I also have various other pins that I'll be replacing just because it is out. Looks like the diff adjustment isn't bad at all. You are the one who made the transmission videos on youtube right? I've watched everyone of those about 3 times each to help me with this process. If you ever plan on making anymore, you should make ones that cover shift rod removal, and diff adjustment. Thanks! You have been much help!!

[Trstno1]

Alright guys.... so I took off the diff adjustment nut to get the case ready for soda blasting and I see what looks like a bearing race right beneath it. I don’t even see that part online. What are the chances I can tape it up to prevent damage from the blasting, and leave it right where it sits? Thoughts?

[Trstno1]

Also...any thoughts on replacing the lip seal on the input shaft? Do I need to pound out the pin in the input shift coupler to uninstall and reinstall or simply pull the old one over the coupler?

[David T]

It's the outer bearing race and it should come out without pounding, just some light encouragement with a blunt, soft punch and small hammer. Do not hit it on the bearing surface.

[Trstno1]

It's the outer bearing race and it should come out without pounding, just some light encouragement with a blunt, soft punch and small hammer. Do not hit it on the bearing surface.


Which direction does the bearing race come out? Do i pop it out from inside of the case outward, or the opposite?

[DMC-81]

Alright guys.... so I took off the diff adjustment nut to get the case ready for soda blasting and I see what looks like a bearing race right beneath it. I don’t even see that part online. What are the chances I can tape it up to prevent damage from the blasting, and leave it right where it sits? Thoughts?
I would tape it off and avoid removing it.

[David T]

Since the larger surface is towards the outside, remove the adjuster nut and hit it inwards evenly.

[DMC-81]

Also...any thoughts on replacing the lip seal on the input shaft? Do I need to pound out the pin in the input shift coupler to uninstall and reinstall or simply pull the old one over the coupler?

Yes, you need to remove the coupler to replace the input shaft seal. Pound out the pin and the input shaft will likely be easy to remove, but the coupler may have to be pressed or otherwise persuaded off the other shaft (with the gears on it).

[Ron]

Since the larger surface is towards the outside, remove the adjuster nut and hit it inwards evenly.
+1 (Stressing, "evenly";-)

...Keep the race mated with its bearing.

Maybe tape off all of the mating surfaces before blasting depending on the soda...

[DMC-81]

+1 (Stressing, "evenly";-)

...Keep the race mated with its bearing.

Maybe tape off all of the mating surfaces before blasting depending on the soda...

Exactly. This was tedious when I replaced the 2 carrier bearings. It is very easy to get it uneven. Also, removing that race may impact the setting on the differential nut. This is why I advise not removing it if you can avoid it.

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=55726&d=1521683147

I used a special tool to reinstall the new one:
http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=55727&d=1521683223

[Trstno1]

Exactly. This was tedious when I replaced the 2 carrier bearings. It is very easy to get it uneven. Also, removing that race may impact the setting on the differential nut. This is why I advise not removing it if you can avoid it.

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=55726&d=1521683147

I used a special tool to reinstall the new one:
http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=55727&d=1521683223


What is the part number of the "special tool"? I was trying to read it from the picture but cannot get anything on google to come up. What size is the race driver?

[DMC-81]

What is the part number of the "special tool"? I was trying to read it from the picture but cannot get anything on google to come up. What size is the race driver?

Here you go:
https://www.autozone.com/loan-a-tools/loaner-bearing-and-race-tool/oemtools-bearing-and-race-installer/391360_0_0

I was able to borrow it from AutoZone.

[Nicholas R]

Do not take a hammer directly to any of the bearing parts; you definitely want to use a bearing driver like what DMC-81 showed above. Most autoparts places rent them, or you can buy your own. I have the Harbor Freight set Maddox and love it. They also have a lower priced option.

https://www.harborfreight.com/18-piece-seal-driver-kit-35555.html
https://www.harborfreight.com/bearing-race-and-seal-driver-set-10-pc-63261.html

Those tapered differential bearings are pretty common to if you decide to replace them (which come with new outer races). I believe from pretty much all manufacturers (SKF/NTN/Timken) their part number is 30209.

Assuming you're also replacing your half shaft lip seals (which you definitely should) you'll need a driver set for that as well to install them. Depending on the condition of your half shafts, you may want to consider the stainless steel speedi sleeves. They can repair pitted shaft surfaces. Easy to install; I've used them with great success:
63139

Also, personally I would not remove and re-install a stock coupler (assuming you replace the lip seal). The originals are very soft (I tested one at 26HRC) and removing and re-installing them isn't going to do anything to help the (partial) splines. I should disclose that my opinion is influenced because I've made replacements for this coupler and therefore always re-installed replacements on any transmissions I've rebuilt. However, I wouldn't do so if I didn't really think that the original couplers were crap. My recommendation is to either replace both the lip seal and the coupler together, or do nothing at all.

Just be careful and really assess the lip seal's condition, that's a bummer of a seal to have leak. I'm pretty sure I had a kevlar clutch fail due to oil saturation from a bad shaft lip seal that I decided not to replace. Very unfortunate since there was lots of life left in it if not for the oil:
63138

[Trstno1]

Do not take a hammer directly to any of the bearing parts; you definitely want to use a bearing driver like what DMC-81 showed above. Most autoparts places rent them, or you can buy your own. I have the Harbor Freight set Maddox and love it. They also have a lower priced option.

https://www.harborfreight.com/18-piece-seal-driver-kit-35555.html
https://www.harborfreight.com/bearing-race-and-seal-driver-set-10-pc-63261.html

Those tapered differential bearings are pretty common to if you decide to replace them (which come with new outer races). I believe from pretty much all manufacturers (SKF/NTN/Timken) their part number is 30209.

Assuming you're also replacing your half shaft lip seals (which you definitely should) you'll need a driver set for that as well to install them. Depending on the condition of your half shafts, you may want to consider the stainless steel speedi sleeves. They can repair pitted shaft surfaces. Easy to install; I've used them with great success:
63139

Also, personally I would not remove and re-install a stock coupler (assuming you replace the lip seal). The originals are very soft (I tested one at 26HRC) and removing and re-installing them isn't going to do anything to help the (partial) splines. I should disclose that my opinion is influenced because I've made replacements for this coupler and therefore always re-installed replacements on any transmissions I've rebuilt. However, I wouldn't do so if I didn't really think that the original couplers were crap. My recommendation is to either replace both the lip seal and the coupler together, or do nothing at all.

Just be careful and really assess the lip seal's condition, that's a bummer of a seal to have leak. I'm pretty sure I had a kevlar clutch fail due to oil saturation from a bad shaft lip seal that I decided not to replace. Very unfortunate since there was lots of life left in it if not for the oil:
63138

Hey - Thanks for all the info! I just ordered the bearing race tool set since my local autozone didn’t have a set for loan. I did however, pound out the pin on the coupler for the input shaft and replaced the lip seal. It came apart easy enough, so I just changed it out and put it back together. How much are the coupler replacements you sell? And is it just a coupler same as stock but made from stronger. Metal or ??? Also, I am replacing the half shaft seals as well. I really hadn’t looked at my half shafts up until now, and yeah I definitely see some pitting. How much are the speedi sleeves and what is the size? I know that Delorean go sells them at like $40 each, or a new half shaft from DMC is $80. So $80/$160....Dang. I wonder if I can get the speedi sleeves elsewhere?

[Nicholas R]

Hey - Thanks for all the info! I just ordered the bearing race tool set since my local autozone didnÂ’t have a set for loan. I did however, pound out the pin on the coupler for the input shaft and replaced the lip seal. It came apart easy enough, so I just changed it out and put it back together. How much are the coupler replacements you sell? And is it just a coupler same as stock but made from stronger. Metal or ??? Also, I am replacing the half shaft seals as well. I really hadnÂ’t looked at my half shafts up until now, and yeah I definitely see some pitting. How much are the speedi sleeves and what is the size? I know that Delorean go sells them at like $40 each, or a new half shaft from DMC is $80. So $80/$160....Dang. I wonder if I can get the speedi sleeves elsewhere?

Speedi Sleeves are just an industry part. I think multiple manufacturers have products like them. SKF has Speedi-Sleeves, Timken has Redi-sleeves, etc. Every now and then we'll use them on gearbox shafts at my work to avoid having to replace the shaft.

Below is the catalog:
63144
The half shaft flanges are 42mm. I believe this is what I've used in the past: https://www.skf.com/cn/en/products/seals/industrial-seals/power-transmission-seals/wear-seals-skf-speedi-sleeve/index.html?designation=99165

You may be able to find them around the internet priced in the $30s but honestly, it's probably safest just to get them from somewhere like DeLoreango. $38.99 seems pretty reasonable to me. I've had a set on my car since 2012 (at the time purchased from DMCMW) and they still look nice and clean.

[Trstno1]

Speedi Sleeves are just an industry part. I think multiple manufacturers have products like them. SKF has Speedi-Sleeves, Timken has Redi-sleeves, etc. Every now and then we'll use them on gearbox shafts at my work to avoid having to replace the shaft.

Below is the catalog:
63144
The half shaft flanges are 42mm. I believe this is what I've used in the past: https://www.skf.com/cn/en/products/seals/industrial-seals/power-transmission-seals/wear-seals-skf-speedi-sleeve/index.html?designation=99165

You may be able to find them around the internet priced in the $30s but honestly, it's probably safest just to get them from somewhere like DeLoreango. $38.99 seems pretty reasonable to me. I've had a set on my car since 2012 (at the time purchased from DMCMW) and they still look nice and clean.

Cool, ill do that then. What about the upgraded input shaft coupler you were talking about?

[FABombjoy]

Definitely the 99165 part - checked my purchase history and have 2 of them on my car.

They have speedy in their name, but that's only in the scope of having to wait for a new shaft to be shipped :)

Take your time to carefully and evenly press them in to place. They'll bend out of round easily and are razor sharp.

Look at the pitting on your existing flange and note any raised areas. i had to redo one as the pitting had "cratered" (for lack of better term) and the edges of the crater were sharp. The repair sleeve conformed to the surface and would not seal correctly. Second time around I sanded the old flange seal surface to smooth it down. That was 8 years ago and I haven't had a drip since.

[Trstno1]

Definitely the 99165 part - checked my purchase history and have 2 of them on my car.

They have speedy in their name, but that's only in the scope of having to wait for a new shaft to be shipped :)

Take your time to carefully and evenly press them in to place. They'll bend out of round easily and are razor sharp.

Look at the pitting on your existing flange and note any raised areas. i had to redo one as the pitting had "cratered" (for lack of better term) and the edges of the crater were sharp. The repair sleeve conformed to the surface and would not seal correctly. Second time around I sanded the old flange seal surface to smooth it down. That was 8 years ago and I haven't had a drip since.

Nice! Thanks for the info. I have decided to purchase new drive flanges simply because I want this gearbox to be perfect once I'm done. So I'll have a pair of drive flanges up for sale here pretty soon.

[Trstno1]

Man, this hunker down thing sorta sucks, but I’m getting a ton done on the car. The transmission case came back from the soda blasting and powder coat. I started to reinstall the shift forks-and roll pins (all new). I’m currently waiting on roller bearings to arrive in the mail to go any further.

I did however swap out the original hot water valve with a new (all metal) Jaguar type, and surrounding hoses with their silicone equivalents. I noticed my original valve did work but only opened 1/8 to 1/4 of the way. I wonder what a normal operating valve will end up doing to the rest of the system. Ideas?

While waiting on transmission parts, next I’ll install a coolant engine bleed system that i got from delorean go.

[DMC-81]

Man, this hunker down thing sorta sucks, but I’m getting a ton done on the car. The transmission case came back from the soda blasting and powder coat. I started to reinstall the shift forks-and roll pins (all new). I’m currently waiting on roller bearings to arrive in the mail to go any further.

I did however swap out the original hot water valve with a new (all metal) Jaguar type, and surrounding hoses with their silicone equivalents. I noticed my original valve did work but only opened 1/8 to 1/4 of the way. I wonder what a normal operating valve will end up doing to the rest of the system. Ideas?

While waiting on transmission parts, next I’ll install a coolant engine bleed system that i got from delorean go.

Nice work!

[Nicholas R]

Man, this hunker down thing sorta sucks, but I’m getting a ton done on the car. The transmission case came back from the soda blasting and powder coat. I started to reinstall the shift forks-and roll pins (all new). I’m currently waiting on roller bearings to arrive in the mail to go any further.

I did however swap out the original hot water valve with a new (all metal) Jaguar type, and surrounding hoses with their silicone equivalents. I noticed my original valve did work but only opened 1/8 to 1/4 of the way. I wonder what a normal operating valve will end up doing to the rest of the system. Ideas?

While waiting on transmission parts, next I’ll install a coolant engine bleed system that i got from delorean go.

Wow this all looks great. Just a note about those roll pins; be sure that the pins are centered in the shaft (i.e. not sticking out too far on either side than the other). When you have the shafts back in, just make sure you can turn the gears nice and smoothly, and that all the selectors work as they should. I remember miss judging how far I needed to insert a set of pins and didn't noticed until I had the gearbox reassembled. Major bummer.

[Trstno1]

Does anyone know if a cross reference list exists for our diff roller bearings? I went to my local Oreilly’s and ordered the 30209c roller bearings. What I got was house brand labeled as30209c on the box, but Koyo30929j on the new race, and 57160 on the actual bearing. Is this a cross reference number that is good, or did I get mislabeled product? The register jockey behind the counter was more than useless in determining such.

I don’t want to install these unless I know they are right. Even the old bearings have 30209c on them. Anyone had any experience on this? I’ve been trying to find a cross reference list online to no avail.

[David T]

Are you sure you have to replace those bearings? It is really rare that they actually need to be replaced. They run in oil and are not used anywhere near their limits. Chances are you will find some cr-ppy Chinese substitutes or counterfeits that, out of the box, are not as good as the old ones you have. It is getting harder and harder to find good quality bearings that are NOT made in China.

[Trstno1]

Are you sure you have to replace those bearings? It is really rare that they actually need to be replaced. They run in oil and are not used anywhere near their limits. Chances are you will find some cr-ppy Chinese substitutes or counterfeits that, out of the box, are not as good as the old ones you have. It is getting harder and harder to find good quality bearings that are NOT made in China.

Yeah, one of the races I didn’t want to take out was not taped off by the power coaters and as such got soda blasted and over spray all over it. So since I can’t repair it, I’m just going to replace both.

[David T]

The soda blast should not have damaged the surface and the powder can be removed. Try cleaning it up and then decide. If they powdered it you will have to clean up the threads in all of the holes too.

[Trstno1]

Alright, lots of work accomplished. New diff bearings/races installed, diff bearing preload adjusted, and I put the case back together. Though I believe Ive run into a problem.

I can turn the gears via the input shaft if I Select 1st or 2nd gear. But the gear box locks up in 3rd/4th/5th, and even reverse. I can see that reverse is being activated through the reverse switch hole and sound of gear going into place but still, I cannot turn the input shaft. Any ideas on this? Hopefully i am simply engaging the gears wrong. To my understanding the brass fork is 5th gear if actuated away from the trans while everything else is in neutral right? The shift rod below that would be 3rd/4th with 3rd gear being selected when shift rod is actuated away from trans, and 4th gear being selected by actuating rod towards the trans from neutral. Right? Then that leaves the 1st/2nd rod below acting in the same manner with 1st away from trans and 2nd towards trans from neutral. Which leaves the reverse below which gets actuated when rod goes towards gearbox from neutral. Am I Right?

When trying to rotate the input shaft in every other gear other than 1st or 2nd, I can see the 1st/2nd shift rod wiggle slightly from side to side. Could the output shaft be hitting roll pins?

I’m waiting until I get some answers before cracking open my newly sealed case :bigcry:

[David T]

Checking gears manually by moving the shift rails you MUST make sure the other rails are not engaging a gear also. If you do manage to get two rails in gear at the same time nothing turns. I can't explain why you are able to turn in 1st and 2nd. Start over and make sure each of the rails are in neutral and move each rail, one at a time, into each gear. Also check and double-check that you have the differential in correctly or you will have 3 speeds in reverse! Are you sure you are actually in 1st and 2nd? Maybe the countershaft is binding and you really aren't in any gears or somehow the pinion or the diff is binding you up.

[DMC-81]

Alright, lots of work accomplished. New diff bearings/races installed, diff bearing preload adjusted, and I put the case back together. Though I believe Ive run into a problem.

I can turn the gears via the input shaft if I Select 1st or 2nd gear. But the gear box locks up in 3rd/4th/5th, and even reverse. I can see that reverse is being activated through the reverse switch hole and sound of gear going into place but still, I cannot turn the input shaft. Any ideas on this? Hopefully i am simply engaging the gears wrong. To my understanding the brass fork is 5th gear if actuated away from the trans while everything else is in neutral right? The shift rod below that would be 3rd/4th with 3rd gear being selected when shift rod is actuated away from trans, and 4th gear being selected by actuating rod towards the trans from neutral. Right? Then that leaves the 1st/2nd rod below acting in the same manner with 1st away from trans and 2nd towards trans from neutral. Which leaves the reverse below which gets actuated when rod goes towards gearbox from neutral. Am I Right?

When trying to rotate the input shaft in every other gear other than 1st or 2nd, I can see the 1st/2nd shift rod wiggle slightly from side to side. Could the output shaft be hitting roll pins?

I’m waiting until I get some answers before cracking open my newly sealed case :bigcry:

Don't worry. It's likely something out of place or a roll pin sticking out too much. You'll probably have to open it back up again though. I had to do the same thing and it was a roll pin hitting first gear. I couldn't even shift gears until I corrected that. It locked up solid.

As I recall when testing the rotation of mine, in 3-4 gears, it is very difficult to turn the input shaft, but it shouldn't lock up.

When selecting 3-4, after 1-2, make sure you don't overshoot neutral in 1-2. That is easy to do. As you may know, selecting 3 or 4, and selecting 1 or 2 is how you lock up the gearbox to install the shaft nut(s). Does it act like that?

Make sure the reverse gear is in the right spot. It can easily slide out of place when you are mating the case halves.

The fact that the 1-2 shift rod wiggles may point to a roll pin. Normally you want to have them positioned halfway as Nick said, but I had to position the 1-2 rod roll pins almost flush with the brass shift fork to clear the gear directly below it.

[Trstno1]

Don't worry. It's likely something out of place or a roll pin sticking out too much. You'll probably have to open it back up again though. I had to do the same thing and it was a roll pin hitting first gear. I couldn't even shift gears until I corrected that. It locked up solid.

As I recall when testing the rotation of mine, in 3-4 gears, it is very difficult to turn the input shaft, but it shouldn't lock up.

When selecting 3-4, after 1-2, make sure you don't overshoot neutral in 1-2. That is easy to do. As you may know, selecting 3 or 4, and selecting 1 or 2 is how you lock up the gearbox to install the shaft nut(s). Does it act like that?

Make sure the reverse gear is in the right spot. It can easily slide out of place when you are mating the case halves.

The fact that the 1-2 shift rod wiggles may point to a roll pin. Normally you want to have them positioned halfway as Nick said, but I had to position the 1-2 rod roll pins almost flush with the brass shift fork to clear the gear directly below it.


Winner winner! I opened it back up and discovered that that a roll pin on the 1/2nd shift fork was not punched in enough. I literally only had to tap it twice with a punch and the gear was able to clear it. The only thing that sucked was opening it back up and cleaning all of the sealant/609 loctite off, in order to do it all over again. I can happily say however that it is back together and I can access all 5 gears plus reverse! Man talk about a learning curve. Nick, you were right! Make darn sure those pins are far enough in. More specifically, make sure to operate all gears before mating both sides of the transmission together again. :mallet:

Tomorrow is nose cone and bell housing install....

[DMC-81]

Winner winner! I opened it back up and discovered that that a roll pin on the 1/2nd shift fork was not punched in enough. I literally only had to tap it twice with a punch and the gear was able to clear it. The only thing that sucked was opening it back up and cleaning all of the sealant/609 loctite off, in order to do it all over again. I can happily say however that it is back together and I can access all 5 gears plus reverse! Man talk about a learning curve. Nick, you were right! Make darn sure those pins are far enough in. More specifically, make sure to operate all gears before mating both sides of the transmission together again. :mallet:

Tomorrow is nose cone and bell housing install....

Hooray! It is a learning curve, but afterwards when driving, you'll smile a bit as you will know how each gear shift works. That's a whole new level of knowing your car! :wrenchin:

Looks great so far!

[Trstno1]

Alright!

I finished the transmission refurb up today. Only issue was my breather plug disintegrated while I was trying to install it. So Ill need to figure out something for that. Otherwise, I am more than pleased with the results!! Now......just to get that thing back into the car...

After transmission install, I’ll be installing a new clutch master cylinder and steel braided line. :cheers:

[DMC-81]

Alright!

I finished the transmission refurb up today. Only issue was my breather plug disintegrated while I was trying to install it. So Ill need to figure out something for that. Otherwise, I am more than pleased with the results!! Now......just to get that thing back into the car...

After transmission install, I’ll be installing a new clutch master cylinder and steel braided line. :cheers:

Spectacular job!

[Trstno1]

I had received a rebuilt slave cylinder from PJ Grady. Can anyone tell me what the green sealant is by the bleed valve? I will be installing a slave bleeder and would like to use the same green sealant. Thx.

[BABIS]

*random thoughts*
I would remove the plastic washer on the slave cyl adapter
I would remove the powder coat on the fork pivot ball, and slightly polish the ball

[Trstno1]

*random thoughts*
I would remove the plastic washer on the slave cyl adapter
I would remove the powder coat on the fork pivot ball, and slightly polish the ball

I have polished the pivot ball, but what is the reasoning for the plastic washer removal? That was the superseded part sent by DMC.

[BABIS]

I have polished the pivot ball, but what is the reasoning for the plastic washer removal? That was the superseded part sent by DMC.

I remember Dave S. reporting that he found cars where the (original) plastic washer let air bubbles in the fluid circuit..

[bueller]

Dave S from DMCMW recommended using a copper crush washer instead of the plastic washer in some old posts I found on here when I was doing my clutch hydraulics recently. However, I had a conversation with Stephen Wynne on this exact part and he said after working on some large number of these, he has had no issues and he recommended the plastic one. I ultimately went with the plastic ones and have had no issues. I did purchase some crush washers just in case as backup but not expecting to need them.

[Trstno1]

Dave S from DMCMW recommended using a copper crush washer instead of the plastic washer in some old posts I found on here when I was doing my clutch hydraulics recently. However, I had a conversation with Stephen Wynne on this exact part and he said after working on some large number of these, he has had no issues and he recommended the plastic one. I ultimately went with the plastic ones and have had no issues. I did purchase some crush washers just in case as backup but not expecting to need them.

Thanks for that!

[Trstno1]

I had received a rebuilt slave cylinder from PJ Grady. Can anyone tell me what the green sealant is by the bleed valve? I will be installing a slave bleeder and would like to use the same green sealant. Thx.

Can anyone tell me about the green sealant in the photo? Bump...

[DMC-81]

Can anyone tell me about the green sealant in the photo? Bump...

I haven't heard of a green thread sealing compound, but doing a search, perhaps it is this:

https://www.jomarvalve.com/products/greenstuff.html

It is a general purpose sealing compound that won't harden. Maybe Rob Grady can verify.

[Trstno1]

I haven't heard of a green thread sealing compound, but doing a search, perhaps it is this:

https://www.jomarvalve.com/products/greenstuff.html

It is a general purpose sealing compound that won't harden. Maybe Rob Grady can verify.

Thank you for the response. I have a PM out to Rob.

[Trstno1]

So, the tranny is back in! I still need to install the drive axles/starter/clutch master/ braided clutch line. That may be a little while from now since I majority pinched a nerve in my lower back while putting that bugger back in. I really hope it works as I don’t think I have it in me to un-install/re-install it again by myself. But...its done!!:cheers:

[DMC-81]

So, the tranny is back in! I still need to install the drive axles/starter/clutch master/ braided clutch line. That may be a little while from now since I majority pinched a nerve in my lower back while putting that bugger back in. I really hope it works as I don’t think I have it in me to un-install/re-install it again by myself. But...its done!!:cheers:

Looks great!

[Trstno1]

Well, My back is finally on the mend. I was able to finish up re-installing the drive axles, filling the transmission with gear oil (75W 90 due to the colder climate), install the clutch primary cylinder, install the stainless line from primary to slave, and bleed. I got the car down from the stilts and started her up. I put it in reverse and it went backwards! I put it in 1st.... it went forward! I was beside myself grinning ear to ear!!. I backed it out of the garage, checked for leaks and took her for a drive. Holy cow!! The transmission shifted sooooo friggin smooth! It went into 2nd easily!!!!!:jawdrop: I slowly went around the neighborhood. After it passed that test, I took her out on the main roads, then on to the highway. She did absolutely perfect!!! I’m back to living the dream!!! Just in time for summer. :cheers:

A big thank you for everyone who helped me through this. I learned a ton and feel very accomplished!!

[David T]

Very nice work. Work up to longer and longer trips till you get confidence it is all good. After a few hundred miles get back underneath and look for anything loose, missing etc. Keep note of any other problems and tackle them one-by-one till you have the car the way you want.

[DMC-81]

Great Job! That looks like a better than new install. :thumbup: