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View Full Version : Vin 3430, The White one from BaT...



andyo
02-26-2020, 10:05 AM
Hi guys, Long time lurker here, but I finally made a purchase of a restoration project. Have wanted one like this since I came across Project Vixen back in 04/05. Wanted a D even longer than that (insert typical story here) I feel like I know what I'm in for thanks to all the great info on here, going to be a long and pricy road for me. Still working out logistics to get it to me, I'll keep the updates coming.

-Andy

MrChocky
02-26-2020, 12:41 PM
Hi guys, Long time lurker here, but I finally made a purchase of a restoration project. Have wanted one like this since I came across Project Vixen back in 04/05. Wanted a D even longer than that (insert typical story here) I feel like I know what I'm in for thanks to all the great info on here, going to be a long and pricy road for me. Still working out logistics to get it to me, I'll keep the updates coming.

-AndyNice! Better you than me. I think there's an awful lot of people who will be excited to see how it scrubs up.

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Jimmyvonviggle
02-26-2020, 06:59 PM
I was wondering who bought that.

DMC-81
02-26-2020, 08:11 PM
Congrats!

andyo
02-27-2020, 09:46 AM
I was wondering who bought that.

some crazy Florida man.

andyo
02-27-2020, 09:48 AM
Nice! Better you than me. I think there's an awful lot of people who will be excited to see how it scrubs up.

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk

Thanks, it's gonna be a interesting...


Congrats!

Thanks!

gluaisrothaii
02-27-2020, 04:21 PM
some crazy Florida man.

Nice project! I bought the black one from BaT a little while back....

Timeless
02-28-2020, 02:23 PM
Congrats Northern neighbor!

andyo
03-01-2020, 10:44 AM
Thanks everyone!

So after considering the options for getting the car from PA to FL i decided to go ahead and have it shipped. I decided since the cost and time for me to drive up there and back was very close to what I was quoted by a auto shipper (Beacon Shipping) that it was the best way.

The Car came with a new windshield which added some complexity to the coordination, but the seller was willing to have it installed before shipment. That took care of the worry about how to get that part down here without adding cost or risking breakage.
This will make any repairs i could have done to the A pillar trim or the dash panel with the windshield off harder later, but i can deal with that.


With that done and the deal closed it should be on the transporter early next week.

Its been great working with Frank at Miniobsession in West Chester who’s been brokering the deal for the seller.

In case you guys didn’t see the listing, here it is.

https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1981-delorean-dmc-12-28/

Cant wait to throw some gas in it and fire it up! [emoji6]

-Andy






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dmcnc
03-01-2020, 12:02 PM
I share your excitement, but I do recommend you don't fire it up until you clean out the fuel system (minimum). From the condition of that engine, you should flush and inspect all fluids as well.



Thanks everyone!

So after considering the options for getting the car from PA to FL i decided to go ahead and have it shipped. I decided since the cost and time for me to drive up there and back was very close to what I was quoted by a auto shipper (Beacon Shipping) that it was the best way.

The Car came with a new windshield which added some complexity to the coordination, but the seller was willing to have it installed before shipment. That took care of the worry about how to get that part down here without adding cost or risking breakage.
This will make any repairs i could have done to the A pillar trim or the dash panel with the windshield off harder later, but i can deal with that.


With that done and the deal closed it should be on the transporter early next week.

Its been great working with Frank at Miniobsession in West Chester who’s been brokering the deal for the seller.

In case you guys didn’t see the listing, here it is.

https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1981-delorean-dmc-12-28/

Cant wait to throw some gas in it and fire it up! [emoji6]

-Andy






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andyo
03-01-2020, 01:10 PM
I share your excitement, but I do recommend you don't fire it up until you clean out the fuel system (minimum). From the condition of that engine, you should flush and inspect all fluids as well.

Haha! I was kidding. yeah, its gonna need a lot of attention before its ready to start. It hasn’t been started since probably 2001 or so.

-Andy


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andyo
03-04-2020, 10:31 AM
Loaded up and on the way to me!

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200304/edf32cf534c4fad0b020a9e01dc13ac5.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200304/31902ae380c7a7d7b36e48e82f5ae725.jpg


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gulwng3
03-04-2020, 04:32 PM
Congrats! Leave the white paint on it - it protects the stainless from scratches! :)

Andy

andyo
03-05-2020, 09:28 AM
Congrats! Leave the white paint on it - it protects the stainless from scratches! :)

Andy

Haha! Thanks.


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DMC VIN 6639
03-06-2020, 12:19 PM
[QUOTE=andyo;255041]Thanks everyone!

So after considering the options for getting the car from PA to FL i decided to go ahead and have it shipped. I decided since the cost and time for me to drive up there and back was very close to what I was quoted by a auto shipper (Beacon Shipping) that it was the best way.

The Car came with a new windshield which added some complexity to the coordination, but the seller was willing to have it installed before shipment. That took care of the worry about how to get that part down here without adding cost or risking breakage.
This will make any repairs i could have done to the A pillar trim or the dash panel with the windshield off harder later, but i can deal with that.


With that done and the deal closed it should be on the transporter early next week.

Its been great working with Frank at Miniobsession in West Chester who’s been brokering the deal for the seller.

In case you guys didn’t see the listing, here it is.

https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1981-delorean-dmc-12-28/

Cant wait to throw some gas in it and fire it up! [emoji6]

-Andy


The ad said the engine was seized, was that statement not true?

andyo
03-06-2020, 12:29 PM
[QUOTE=The ad said the engine was seized, was that statement not true?[/QUOTE]

Just got it this morning, so I will be checking that this weekend.

DMC-81
03-06-2020, 12:38 PM
The Car came with a new windshield which added some complexity to the coordination, but the seller was willing to have it installed before shipment. That took care of the worry about how to get that part down here without adding cost or risking breakage.
This will make any repairs i could have done to the A pillar trim or the dash panel with the windshield off harder later, but i can deal with that.



Did the seller support the roof section with a jig when replacing the windshield? Because the windshield is a structural support part, that needs to be done to prevent alignment issues due to the roof sagging when the windshield is out.

andyo
03-06-2020, 12:42 PM
Did the seller support the roof section with a jig when replacing the windshield? Because the windshield is a structural support part, that needs to be done to prevent alignment issues due to the roof sagging when the windshield is out.

I made sure that they knew it needed to be supported. And the doors closed asap after it was done.



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andyo
03-06-2020, 12:51 PM
Some pictures from my initial inspection. Lots of mouse droppings! I’ll be cleaning things up this weekend.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200306/7b6e87793c9b9278cc9b6dd5d67915ee.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200306/580efa7676729c2b2899709b7becb4c3.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200306/53bf0136248bdd21895c8efb08b7ed7a.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200306/00dc3897772f8f383ae0e7d423214d8f.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200306/403b63f97c6293b0434a3926d81cf205.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200306/da581272baa14bbc99d2b5190b1c7a8f.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200306/7e2cdf2cab0b58255e4d69e56a81b72c.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200306/bc5bc6545d53d5c75481d3f8a87db081.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200306/b62adb28b98cc15313294f09bd2b2b2e.jpg


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andyo
03-11-2020, 08:51 AM
Over the Weekend I removed the rear facia, and the muffler to gain better access to the engine compartment expecting to be pulling the engine soon. Found some fossils in the muffler (Look like chunks of coal, I assume they were chunks of the catalytic converter? getting new exhaust anyway) I put a wrench on the crank nut not thinking it was going to budge, but it actually turned with a bit of muscle. so the engine is NOT seized! I've removed the spark plugs from all the cylinders and they all look to be in good shape (no signs of corrosion/rust) and The fuel injectors also appear to be in decent shape (from the outside) plan to clean them and see if they can be reused. also ordered a Bluetooth borescope camera to visually inspect the cylinders using my phone as the display. should be fun!

One problem I'm trying to track down is the starter circuit, I removed the starter, cleaned it up and bench checked it good. But in the car it wont engage & turn. power is making it to the W/R wire on the solenoid and the battery lead has good voltage as well. also verified my car has the factory start circuit upgrade. I'm thinking its a grounding problem. I cleaned the bonding strap on the right side of the motor (motor mount to frame) and where the neg battery cable meets the frame... maybe not enough. I plan to jump a heavy gauge wire from the starter case to the negative side of the battery to see if that works and confirm my grounding theory.

I'll be checking compression and cleaning the fuel system in the coming weeks. I ordered all new fuel lines, filer, accumulator, pump, etc. so I'll be pushing to try and start if all looks ok.

-Andy

Trstno1
03-11-2020, 09:00 AM
Over the Weekend I removed the rear facia, and the muffler to gain better access to the engine compartment expecting to be pulling the engine soon. Found some fossils in the muffler (Look like chunks of coal, I assume they were chunks of the catalytic converter? getting new exhaust anyway) I put a wrench on the crank nut not thinking it was going to budge, but it actually turned with a bit of muscle. so the engine is NOT seized! I've removed the spark plugs from all the cylinders and they all look to be in good shape (no signs of corrosion/rust) and The fuel injectors also appear to be in decent shape (from the outside) plan to clean them and see if they can be reused. also ordered a Bluetooth borescope camera to visually inspect the cylinders using my phone as the display. should be fun!

One problem I'm trying to track down is the starter circuit, I removed the starter, cleaned it up and bench checked it good. But in the car it wont engage & turn. power is making it to the W/R wire on the solenoid and the battery lead has good voltage as well. also verified my car has the factory start circuit upgrade. I'm thinking its a grounding problem. I cleaned the bonding strap on the right side of the motor (motor mount to frame) and where the neg battery cable meets the frame... maybe not enough. I plan to jump a heavy gauge wire from the starter case to the negative side of the battery to see if that works and confirm my grounding theory.

I'll be checking compression and cleaning the fuel system in the coming weeks. I ordered all new fuel lines, filer, accumulator, pump, etc. so I'll be pushing to try and start if all looks ok.

-Andy

Nice progress! Hopefully you’ll get it started soon. Keep the pics
coming.

andyo
03-11-2020, 03:23 PM
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200311/ef74d132c469101418af23b384232276.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200311/f58f03ea006519d31b55fab032f3f1d3.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200311/91748c11af1b8aaaaaddef47c4167a94.jpg
not a lot of gas in the tank. was able to pump it all out pretty easily.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200311/2b8f8d809b86915904435fbfb36676a4.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200311/e89ec3af1d026de74f7095eba1c7a1f7.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200311/1ee553e0b4d38adf192fa7b7f663482a.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200311/2b7725cc68cd0e8d9970e459844db7d7.jpg
Underside of rear frame looks ok.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200311/8b7e2bf9aa33a64d746c577836423674.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200311/07eaddd9af4cf88241b8a255e007b585.jpg
front end pretty bad though, but I've seen way worse.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200311/409c847b461d784ab027b2efc94b5978.jpg
I've find it interesting in a 'gee wiz' kinda way that there are seemingly random numbers written on the rear of the frames. The actual frame serial number is totally different, 2700 something, cant remember exactly, and my vin is 3430.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200311/f6201cd6dbb7cb0cbb1b980255dd61e3.jpg
general condition of all the plugs
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200311/2fee18554c6dfea2ef35aeb20f8f867f.jpg
and Injectors


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Mark D
03-11-2020, 04:53 PM
Wow you're wasting no time at all digging into this thing. Love the progress photos so far, keep them coming!

Looks like you've got mostly surface rust on the frame in most places with the exception of that front crossmember. It's tough to tell just how far the rust goes under the epoxy sometimes. I'm sure you'll find out soon enough with how fast you're disassembling everything.

Are you planning to strip the whole frame and refinish it, or patch where you need to and coat it with some POR-15? I'm interested to know more about what your end goals and if you're going full frame off resto from the get go or just getting it running first and seeing where that leads you.

andyo
03-11-2020, 05:44 PM
Wow you're wasting no time at all digging into this thing. Love the progress photos so far, keep them coming!

Looks like you've got mostly surface rust on the frame in most places with the exception of that front crossmember. It's tough to tell just how far the rust goes under the epoxy sometimes. I'm sure you'll find out soon enough with how fast you're disassembling everything.

Are you planning to strip the whole frame and refinish it, or patch where you need to and coat it with some POR-15? I'm interested to know more about what your end goals and if you're going full frame off resto from the get go or just getting it running first and seeing where that leads you.

Thanks Mark,

I'm excited to dig into it. there so much information out there on these cars that I had a plan for how I would start out a long time ago. really wanted a project for the project part of it. seriously have been reading this forum since 2004 or somewhere in there. the obsession had its cycles, but it always came back!

The front cross member/bulkhead/closing plate is my main concern. its bad. but I think structurally this frame is good. i will likely patch and POR-15 it.

and yeah, I'm trying to discern the real state of this motor. if I can get it running, then I'll do the needed stuff to make it road worthy and drive it a little while I do cosmetics. frame off eventually in that case. If the motor is toast... probably tackle the full monte. we'll see where this story goes.

Cautiously optimistic!

-Andy

andyo
03-11-2020, 08:18 PM
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200312/001baad9fbd3ce5096582a00c876a13e.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200312/e4bb86928c54e8c85a2bd638fc4ff127.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200312/57e071e02009cfc7f99515143415532e.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200312/2f79e40d950434900f904c4be9a6f52d.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200312/ecafcf698a83db13cf3213a4209a970e.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200312/a84d0f2375ea72262b4e28bac21831cc.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200312/f5b8a9bc94f56f14db79fda34860ee47.jpg

Heres how the cylinder walls look.

My untrained eye thinks they look ok... compression will say for certain i guess.


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Mark D
03-12-2020, 11:04 AM
Thanks Mark,

I'm excited to dig into it. there so much information out there on these cars that I had a plan for how I would start out a long time ago. really wanted a project for the project part of it. seriously have been reading this forum since 2004 or somewhere in there. the obsession had its cycles, but it always came back!

The front cross member/bulkhead/closing plate is my main concern. its bad. but I think structurally this frame is good. i will likely patch and POR-15 it.

and yeah, I'm trying to discern the real state of this motor. if I can get it running, then I'll do the needed stuff to make it road worthy and drive it a little while I do cosmetics. frame off eventually in that case. If the motor is toast... probably tackle the full monte. we'll see where this story goes.

Cautiously optimistic!

-Andy

Congrats on finally getting a car to call your own, your enthusiasm definitely shows though. I remember how excited I was to start my own restoration project a few years ago and how much fun it was to learn about each new thing that I had taken apart and what it would take to restore the car. Working on my car and getting to know all the intimate details of how it is put together makes driving it that much more rewarding now that it is (mostly) complete.

I went the same route as you are planning with patching and touching up the frame with POR15. I created a few threads years ago about the process I used. Everyone takes a slightly different approach it seems and there are a few options in regards to prep as well as top coating or just leaving the POR as-is. I removed as much rust as possible, then applied a couple of coats of POR-15 rust preventative paint, then POR etching primer (to allow the top coat to stick, and match the thickness of the surrounding epoxy) and then top coated with rustoleum smoke gray to match the frame color. POR-15 is awesome stuff but a bit a of a pain to use, especially getting top coat to adhere well. If you're planning on top coating you're either supposed to dust coat the POR with spray paint as it's curing so your remaining coats will stick, or use POR's special etching primer.

EDIT: found that thread I created for prepping/painting POR-15 and matching top coat color:
http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?5199-Frame-Paint-Color-Comparison

I'll definitely be following along with your thread as you make progress. I was lucky enough to not have to do any major engine work so that part interests me to see what it will take to get yours running again. The photos you posted of the inside of each cylinder actually look pretty good, though I'm no expert. From some youtube videos I've watched, adding a couple tablespoons of marvel mystery oil to each cylinder will help break loose any stuck rings and make manually turning over the engine easier/safer so you're less likely to score the liners when it's time to do a compression test. There are some other people on the board that can give you good advice in terms of what steps to take with the engine besides the more obvious concerns of getting the fuel system sorted out.

Riley88
03-12-2020, 12:06 PM
Dude congrats and its awesome you are already BAM gettling into !

dn010
03-12-2020, 04:38 PM
There isn't really much you can do other than hit the cylinders with a few squirts of oil, disconnect the ignition/fuel and crank the engine to get the oil pump moving some oil throughout the engine. You can't prime this engine or coat the cylinders unless you plan on taking things apart. Looks good though.

andyo
03-12-2020, 05:34 PM
Congrats on finally getting a car to call your own, your enthusiasm definitely shows though. I remember how excited I was to start my own restoration project a few years ago and how much fun it was to learn about each new thing that I had taken apart and what it would take to restore the car. Working on my car and getting to know all the intimate details of how it is put together makes driving it that much more rewarding now that it is (mostly) complete.

I went the same route as you are planning with patching and touching up the frame with POR15. I created a few threads years ago about the process I used. Everyone takes a slightly different approach it seems and there are a few options in regards to prep as well as top coating or just leaving the POR as-is. I removed as much rust as possible, then applied a couple of coats of POR-15 rust preventative paint, then POR etching primer (to allow the top coat to stick, and match the thickness of the surrounding epoxy) and then top coated with rustoleum smoke gray to match the frame color. POR-15 is awesome stuff but a bit a of a pain to use, especially getting top coat to adhere well. If you're planning on top coating you're either supposed to dust coat the POR with spray paint as it's curing so your remaining coats will stick, or use POR's special etching primer.

EDIT: found that thread I created for prepping/painting POR-15 and matching top coat color:
http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?5199-Frame-Paint-Color-Comparison

I'll definitely be following along with your thread as you make progress. I was lucky enough to not have to do any major engine work so that part interests me to see what it will take to get yours running again. The photos you posted of the inside of each cylinder actually look pretty good, though I'm no expert. From some youtube videos I've watched, adding a couple tablespoons of marvel mystery oil to each cylinder will help break loose any stuck rings and make manually turning over the engine easier/safer so you're less likely to score the liners when it's time to do a compression test. There are some other people on the board that can give you good advice in terms of what steps to take with the engine besides the more obvious concerns of getting the fuel system sorted out.

Thanks Mark! ive reached out to the forum to get some suggestions on the steps i should take on the Engine 'awakening'. Really appreciate your suggestions on the frame rust!


Dude congrats and its awesome you are already BAM gettling into !

Thanks! Having fun so far!


There isn't really much you can do other than hit the cylinders with a few squirts of oil, disconnect the ignition/fuel and crank the engine to get the oil pump moving some oil throughout the engine. You can't prime this engine or coat the cylinders unless you plan on taking things apart. Looks good though.

Thanks, I know some GM motors you can spin the pump... but this is most definitely not a GM motor.


Update on the Starter problem. I discovered that the shunt between the negative posts on the solenoid was barely hanging on and broke when I tried to mess with it, so I made a jumper wire and BAM it works. I will be replacing the starter before I really start driving it, but for now I'll continue to use it since its working and I could put that money elsewhere.

-Andy

andyo
03-13-2020, 08:07 PM
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200314/a3ccc83d2458e66695543842cf22fa26.jpg

I installed new struts for the doors and hood from PJ Grady. Will make life easier. Pretty happy that the doors open and close well and even when up. The doors do fly open pretty fast though... maybe because the struts are new? Was going to see if they settle in before i do anything rash...

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200314/620fd0870b13cb15fa294020e3484eb2.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200314/bdee26c4bdd98b0a0f7bf6223740f2a0.jpg

Coolant Temp probe connector was duct taped and jumpered...

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200314/e98501d8ef5f1ebffbf1da4d70cc84fe.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200314/66b89f08a38824ec93d38c1dc418d126.jpg

Cold Start Valve connector has a broken wire... too close to splice.


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Mark D
03-15-2020, 09:49 PM
[IMG]https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200314/66b89f08a38824ec93d38c1dc418d126.jpg

Cold Start Valve connector has a broken wire... too close to splice.


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You should be able to pull out the metal pin from the connector and carefully pry it apart to remove the old wire, then re-crimp it onto the end of the broken wire. Or if that is a common type of pin you may be able to just crimp on a new pin without trying to save the old one.

Otherwise, I could grab you a used connector with a few inches of wire pigtail so you can cut and splice a new connector in place. There is a 3.0L PRV in an Eagle Premier in one of the junk yards by me that I could grab for you. I think it should be the same connector for the CSV. Can anybody confirm?

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=59085&d=1548166186

ssdelorean
03-16-2020, 01:30 PM
I installed new struts for the doors and hood from PJ Grady. Will make life easier. Pretty happy that the doors open and close well and even when up. The doors do fly open pretty fast though... maybe because the struts are new? Was going to see if they settle in before i do anything rash...



andyo,
A quick test to see if the tortion bar is adjusted/set properly - You can remove the door strut and let the door hang. When properly adjusted/set, the door should hang 2-6 inches away from being closed.

If they are more than that, the previous owner may have over torqued the tortion bar to compensate for a weaker gas strut.

DMC5180
03-16-2020, 04:56 PM
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200314/a3ccc83d2458e66695543842cf22fa26.jpg

I installed new struts for the doors and hood from PJ Grady. Will make life easier. Pretty happy that the doors open and close well and even when up. The doors do fly open pretty fast though... maybe because the struts are new? Was going to see if they settle in before i do anything rash...

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200314/620fd0870b13cb15fa294020e3484eb2.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200314/bdee26c4bdd98b0a0f7bf6223740f2a0.jpg

Coolant Temp probe connector was duct taped and jumpered...

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200314/e98501d8ef5f1ebffbf1da4d70cc84fe.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200314/66b89f08a38824ec93d38c1dc418d126.jpg

Cold Start Valve connector has a broken wire... too close to splice.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Here’s a tip for Terminal extraction

One large paper clip. Insert into squared hole next to the terminal blades. Push in until you feel resistance then it gets easier as the lock tab bends inward. About 3/8 inch. The terminal will then push out the back. Then lock tab will need to be pried back outward to reinsert the terminal.

You might be able to solder repair it.

Otherwise new terminals can be purchased to replace those.

The terminal type is JPT junior power timer.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200316/ca87ab1e689cfd918116ad4b738b2fa7.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200316/243b72db7f5f63805e370154c4ab0292.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200316/79ab8ac273e7b7c93036ea3408ae1a77.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200316/871cd436233d9ee3984963c658e5767c.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200316/a7532a0d7be14c7934e635ffb3db8676.jpg

andyo
03-17-2020, 12:15 AM
You should be able to pull out the metal pin from the connector and carefully pry it apart to remove the old wire, then re-crimp it onto the end of the broken wire. Or if that is a common type of pin you may be able to just crimp on a new pin without trying to save the old one.

Otherwise, I could grab you a used connector with a few inches of wire pigtail so you can cut and splice a new connector in place. There is a 3.0L PRV in an Eagle Premier in one of the junk yards by me that I could grab for you. I think it should be the same connector for the CSV. Can anybody confirm?

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=59085&d=1548166186

Thank you Mark! I actually found new ones on Dgo and DMCH, i will try and salvage this one by de-pinning it. Ill let you know how it goes

-Andy

andyo
03-17-2020, 12:20 AM
andyo,
A quick test to see if the tortion bar is adjusted/set properly - You can remove the door strut and let the door hang. When properly adjusted/set, the door should hang 2-6 inches away from being closed.

If they are more than that, the previous owner may have over torqued the tortion bar to compensate for a weaker gas strut.

Thanks for the tip! They hung open a bit with the old lift struts installed, Im sure within the tolerances you pointed out. I will double check that with no struts at all.

On a related note, I believe the previous owner was maybe getting ready to adjust them due to some of the clues i’ve found in the car and notes in the binders i got with the car. There was a huge breaker bar extension in the luggage compartment, and in the binders there was a copy of the torsion bar adjustment procedure from the Delorean magazine with some notes on it. Guessing he parked it before adjusting but who knows...

-Andy


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andyo
03-17-2020, 12:22 AM
Here’s a tip for Terminal extraction

One large paper clip. Insert into squared hole next to the terminal blades. Push in until you feel resistance then it gets easier as the lock tab bends inward. About 3/8 inch. The terminal will then push out the back. Then lock tab will need to be pried back outward to reinsert the terminal.

You might be able to solder repair it.

Otherwise new terminals can be purchased to replace those.

The terminal type is JPT junior power timer.



This is great! Thank you very much!

-Andy


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DMC5180
03-17-2020, 10:10 AM
This is great! Thank you very much!

-Andy


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Your Welcome.

If you are replacing the Terminal, do both of them so the wires are equal length. Here is the correct type of tool for crimping them.


ABN Open Barrel Crimper, Wire Crimper Tool for 14-24 Gauge Wire, Pin Terminal Crimper, Crimp Tool, Wire Crimping Tool https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07G8S1BGF/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_fHnCEb4ZXJRWQ

If you are unsure how to use it, just search Youtube for open barrel terminal crimping.

cdrusn
03-17-2020, 07:35 PM
I 'saved' an alfa Romeo engine that was seized up by pouring ATF into each cylinder until it was completely full. Every day or so I would check to see how much fluid had
disappeared from the full cylinder showing that it had gone through the rings. In a week each cylinder would drain almost immediately. At that point the engine would
easily turn with a wrench. I changed the engine oil out (about 9 quarts with ATF), filter and it started right up. Smoked like crazy but after all the ATF on the top of the pistons burned out and a change in spark plugs it ran perfect. What a great project, tackle the rusty frame as soon as you can.

andyo
09-10-2020, 10:25 AM
I’m sorry i haven’t update my thread in a while, i’m going to try and be better about that! Some of you may be following what i’ve done on the facebook group “Delorean Restoration projects” since thats where i’ve been posting mostly.

I’ve made a ton of progress since my last update so ill try to hit the high points.

First up, The Engine.

After figuring out that my Kjet was toast, and looking at the cost of the parts i made the decision to go with a Carburetor conversion. From a cost and simplicity stand point it made the most sense to me. I also liked that it will be easy to revisit the kjet in the future since i didn’t destroy anything thats not replaceable. All i have to say about this is that some find this route to be taboo for some reason, i don’t fully understand why and i’m not really interested to debate it anymore! lol!

That said, the engine runs and runs strong! I had a feeling it would after everything i found to be good when i was going through it. Turns out that this car looked much worse off than it actually was so i’m pretty happy about that.

Heres a link to a video of it running. I took the video, The channel owner posted it with my permission.

https://youtu.be/99Ed7XxjkHo

So once i knew the engine ran strong, my next big rock to tackle was the frame rot. I knew it was going to he too difficult to get a good repair on it with the car together so I started preparing to separate the car. On e i was ready i had a bunch of friends and co-workers come and help me out. I used four scissor jacks and cinder blocks with wood beams to lift the body up. Was a little nerve racking but it went very smoothly.

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Following the separation, I initially thought i could have a shop do the frame repair, but i needed to get it to them and to do that i had to strip everything off the frame. That was coming anyway, but it gave me motivation to do the work quickly. I was lucky that there wasn’t much that was stuck or hard to remove. Just the flexible brake lines really. I soaked those and was very careful and got them out without breaking the mount brackets off. I made sure to keep track of all the nuts and bolts of all the things coming off, and boxes everything up by “system”. Coolant stuff, front suspension stuff, rear suspension stuff etc.
i was able to borrow an engine hoist from my boss, actually he’s lent me a lot of stuff! Best boss ever. The engine is on a stand and the trans is separated as well. I have some questions about what i should do to the transmission before i put this back together but ill ask in a separate post.
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This picture is pretty much mid teardown.

In all honesty this car needed this level of attention before it would be a reliable driving car anyway so i’m happy i did not this and i’ve really had a ton of fun in the process.

So once it was all tore down i trailered the frame over to a local shop. They took one look at the frame and said, its cheaper to buy a different one. I explained that in this case it would likely cost me $5k to $7k to find a frame in good condition. They were surprised, and so we talked a bit more but the best they thought they could do was going to be around $4k.... and they couldn’t get to it anytime soon. I went home to explore my options and think on it some more. A few days later a co-worker caught me in the hall and wanted a update on the car. He suggested that i talk to another guy we knew about helping me out. Turns out he’s a competent welder and was more than willing to lend me his skills. And so, we are currently in the process of fixing it ourselves!
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I think this will turn out to be a good repair, and also freed up funds to continue on with other areas and parts that needed replacement. Its my hope that at some point i’ll have the ability to do a stainless frame swap, but right now this will get the car to a useable point.

So in the meantime between frame work days, i have been addressing other parts.

I have completely refurbished the brake calipers, parking brakes, And brake booster. (No pictures... Apparently my picture taking is lacking...) I Plan to get a new master cylinder and stainless braided flex lines to finish up that system.

I have had the suspension parts blasted, i have painted most of them and already have all new bushings to press in. I plan to box in the lower control arms as well. Im looking at getting new springs from DMCH or DGo... not sure which way to go. Also definitely need new shocks. Im thinking i may just go with the Delorean Europe set with the thought that i may upgrade suspension drastically in the future. Im also thinking since thats the case maybe i should just go with what DMCH has for now and save some money. Again not sure what i should do there so advice and opinions are very welcome!

As for the coolant system, all the pipes are in good shape, i cleaned them up and will reuse them. I have all new rubber and clamps for the whole thing as well. I have new DMCH version of the fans, will reuse the stock shroud, and i’m debating on a new radiator... it works fine, as i let the car idle for literally hours in the driveway in the hot florida summer. No leaks and no over heating. But that doesn’t mean the minute i start driving it around it wont suddenly spring a leak... plus all the work i’ve done so far may have damaged it.... ill probably get a new one.


One night I decided i needed to rid the interior of the last area of mice infestation remnants and that meant pulling the heater/AC box and cleaning it. I pulled it out and disassembled it completely. Washed it and right now i’m collecting parts and images of how the foam on the flaps was placed. I’ve been asked by others to document the rebuild. I plan to do that and make a How To post for this.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200910/abf1d5bb06ac03a3a9010fbb3edb8d1e.jpg

Questions i have on the AC... i bought a new evap core, have the later version dryer. Need to get a condenser and compressor. I have the front to back lines (DGo version) i need the line that goes from condenser to the evap core. I haven’t dedicated a lot of brain power to thinking this through yet, but right now i’m really confused about r12 vs r134 part compatibility. Since i’m replacing everything in the system will i be limited to only r134 or what? I’ve only just begun to research that so i hope the opportunity buys i made on parts wont be for nothing...

Best for last, I had the wheels blasted and powder coated in Bengal Silver, they turned out awesome! They look brand new. I have the Hankook tire set ready to go on them with some nice metal valve stems. The wheels will be the nicest part of the car for a while! LOL!
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My helpers having some fun in the tire stack!

Thanks for reading! Any inputs you guys have are appreciated!

-Andy


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Mark D
09-10-2020, 11:35 AM
Threads like this are why I keep coming back to this forum. Great work so far, and thanks for the updates!

Rich_NYS
09-10-2020, 04:19 PM
Excellent!

Would you post details on your separation? Got any pics of when you rolled the frame out?

I'm planning a separation for 4519, I'm seeing various approaches and a lot of good ideas.

andyo
09-10-2020, 04:56 PM
Excellent!

Would you post details on your separation? Got any pics of when you rolled the frame out?

I'm planning a separation for 4519, I'm seeing various approaches and a lot of good ideas.

Hey Rich,

Yeah I've been meaning to splice together the clips my wife took that day. I will make an effort to get that done.

In the meantime,

For the prep work, I used the body separation checklist that's in the How to section. it was about 90% of the stuff.
a couple things I missed or weren't listed I had to remove during the separation. Naturally I didn't write them down to fix the list...

For the lift, I put a scissor jack under each of the four body jack points. I had a guy on each crank handle and one guy calling out the cadence of the turns so we stayed close to sync'd.

What I used,

4 scissor jacks, which were about $20 each on amazon
Solid Cinder blocks. the measure 4x8x16 I think. and I think I bought 32 of them... 8 for each spot. got them at my local building supply store.
Two 4x4x12ft wood beams to act as cross members. got them at Lowes.


The cinder blocks came in handy in several ways.
They gave us something to rest the body on when we need to reposition the jacks. Also used them under the jacks to give the extra height we needed.
Once high enough, we put the beams through between the frame and body also on the jack points.
We continued with the scissor jacks on the beams until it was high enough to roll the frame out.

Then at the end the beams were rested on the stacks of blocks outside of the wheels so we could roll the frame out.

I then lowered the body down by the beams onto the dollies you can see in the pictures.

Only thing I'd do differently next time is go slower. There was a ground wire I missed attached to the engine that bent the ignition resistor mount bracket as it pulled taunt. I didn't do enough walk arounds to make sure everything was detached.

-Andy

Rich_NYS
09-10-2020, 06:11 PM
Great info, thanks. Looking forward to the pics!

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DMC-81
09-10-2020, 07:20 PM
Great progress so far! :thumbup:

cdrusn
09-10-2020, 10:46 PM
great pics, especially interesting to me were pics of the a/c heater box which I have to take out this winter as my blower caught on fire and melted a portion of the box.
My only comment, FWIW, is to go R134 with all the new a/c. You should replace the rubber hoses from the a/c box to the compressor that run along the frame. Change out
all the rubber 'O' rings to green and change the compressor oil to R134 type and you have a new system easily serviced. Great job.
t

andyo
09-11-2020, 02:19 PM
great pics, especially interesting to me were pics of the a/c heater box which I have to take out this winter as my blower caught on fire and melted a portion of the box.
My only comment, FWIW, is to go R134 with all the new a/c. You should replace the rubber hoses from the a/c box to the compressor that run along the frame. Change out
all the rubber 'O' rings to green and change the compressor oil to R134 type and you have a new system easily serviced. Great job.
t

Yikes! Glad it didn’t get too out of hand! My blower motor looks terrible inside... i will be replacing that as well...

Thanks for the comments on the AC.


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