Waking up an engine

[andyo]

Hello All!

In case you haven't seen my posts in the restoration section, I have #3430, the white one...

check it out for some more context

http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?18049-Vin-3430-The-White-one-from-BaT


I've determined that the engine is in fact not seized, as the ad suggested. I've inspected the cylinder walls and intake valves they also look surprisingly good.

so I'm getting ready to attempt to start and I was looking for any suggestions you may have, what boxes should I should check?

Is there a way to turn the oil pump manually? I see its chain driven, by the crank shaft I assume? I'd like to spread oil around before cranking it if its possible.

Things I plan to do:

Compression and leak down tests.

somehow circulate oil... need help with this in particular.

Fuel system cleaning/flush/test
plus:
new pump & lines up front
new filter
new accumulator
new lines in engine bay

Coolant system flush/refill

Ignition
looks ok, so was planning to try it with what's there, replace as I get closer to actually driving.

starter circuit
I've sorted out my problem there. starter wouldn't engage and turn, was due to the copper shunt between two of the posts being broken.


any advice you guys have is much appreciated!

-Andy

[Ethan Rode]

Hi Andy,

Welcome aboard!. My car was also painted white when I purchased it.

To circulate the oil, I'd recommend pulling the spark plugs and RPM relay, and crank until the oil light goes out on the dash. For good measure, you can also spray the cylinders down with a light lubricating oil of your choice, just expect some smoke when you finally are able to start it.

Compression and leak down tests might be misleading, if the engine hasn't run in a while. The rings could be stuck, or debris on the valve seats could give you a false low reading. You might get a better idea of the relative health of the engine based on reading the spark plugs.

If you haven't already, get yourself a fuel pressure gauge to measure your control, primary, and rest fuel pressures. This is a good one:HERE (https://www.amazon.com/CTA-Tools-3420-Compatible-Injection/dp/B008FJXA3M/ref=pd_sbs_263_2/138-5058627-3434967?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B008FJXA3M&pd_rd_r=a549fc14-b3c2-4ccf-8f6b-b3b7b2d8ff7d&pd_rd_w=tfrPq&pd_rd_wg=0byFN&pf_rd_p=7cd8f929-4345-4bf2-a554-7d7588b3dd5f&pf_rd_r=X34VRMXF5STKFK1HPBRT&psc=1&refRID=X34VRMXF5STKFK1HPBRT)

[David T]

Good advice. I would add that you should check the oil and if it looks or smells bad, change it and the filter before you crank it over. I also like to hook up a mechanical pressure gauge to watch the oil pressure til I know I can trust the gauges in the car. Can't hurt to do a compression test and leak-down test but as the other poster said, til you have it dunning a little they probably aren't going to be very accurate. Have a fully charged battery and crank it over a while without the spark plugs till you see compression in each cylinder and some oil pressure. After a few hours of running the motor I would change the oil again and check the valve adjustments. You should plan to take the top off the motor and replace all of the seals, hoses, gaskets, and water pump. Don't be surprised if you start to find oil leaks and have to replace some seals. Seals don't like siting for long periods of time and they take a "set" and leak.