What's your "social distancing" project?

[nullset]

Given that my main hobby involves interacting closely with lots of people, I will have a lot of time on my hands. My current task list:

- New carpet
- Get the binnacle and passenger side knee pads recovered
- Get the center console recovered
- Replace the 2008 sound system with something more modern
- Clean and clean and clean and clean

What are you working on?

Anyone have advice on the binnacle and knee pad replacement? Ideally i'd like them to match. I'd prefer to take the pieces to a local shop if possible, but am open to ideas. I don't believe the DMCH binnacles will ever be produced or I'd just keep waiting.

Anyone want a rusty Kenwood single DIN dvd player with popup screen? :) It works, but is a PITA.

[Brodizzle83]

Possibly porting my Peugeot manifold to match the carburetor spacer so I can use that as an adapter for my 2100 carb.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200321/4340ebbd87ccad24028255c78f672ccb.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200321/c1bfffaa89f4a54c8da2ecd5dc2caebc.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200321/f13298d42b2066f24c535a989b0180dd.jpg

Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk

[81dmc]

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[Michael]

My list is way too long and pic heavy to repost because it was started in December and hopefully will wrap up in the next month. I will just post a link.

http://dmctoday.com/showthread.php?2821-Your-winter-holiday-to-do-list

[DaraSue]

Started with replacing a leaky radiator, expanded into replacing the s-pipes and repainting the closing plate. Also, installing NW's self-bleeder.

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I think it was time...

[Jonathan]

I have a dining room table full of parts I'm going to install. Just waiting on the weather to warm-up a little more as it's still pretty cold in the garage. First up are the oil cooler hoses for the auto trans. Been having an ATF drip/leak for sometime now. It'll be all sealed-up before I drive the car again.

[EngineerGuY]

Making some Torin Blowers for inside of Time Machine. I've got 5 made just waiting to ship. I need more projects hahaha so sick of being home!

[Trstno1]

I’m right in the middle of a rear main seal replacement that turned into a clutch main/clutch slave/ clutch line/clutch/pressure plate/throw out bearing/ Fly wheel re-surface/ hot water valve replacement. If that wasn’t enough, all that has now turned into full transmission rebuild. I have leaned so much about my car. Love it!

[mr_maxime]

Ill be modeling the engine cover. Had to take the 3d scanner with me due to working from home this week.

https://i.imgur.com/8OC5kvX.jpg?1
https://i.imgur.com/Gay8G7s.jpg?1
https://i.imgur.com/tbmDQiF.jpg?1

[the_watcher87]

I'm just sorting out small issues, I had some glass rattling inside my passenger door which I can only assume is from a broken window during a previous owners time with the car.

Next up figure out why heater blower won't work on settings 3 and 4 with any consistency.

[CFI]

Next up figure out why heater blower won't work on settings 3 and 4 with any consistency.

I had that same issue. It turned out my circuit breaker was the incorrect amperage and was tripping every few minutes. It was also getting very hot! I installed the correct amperage breaker and also switched both relays to the McKeen solid state. Those two actions alone reduced heat drastically and stopped the breaker from tripping.

While you’re at it, check the blower resistor pack near the blower motor. Mine was extraordinarily rusty. IIRC it only controls speeds 1 and 2 but it’s a cheap and easy replacement if needed.

[DMCMW Dave]

Time for the valve adjustment on my own car that I've been putting off for ***waytoolong***

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[Bitsyncmaster]

I was hoping to get my seat covers started but it looks like a long time to get the covers. They say there is no shipping working so I guess they make them in China.

[Hill Valley PD]

Time for the valve adjustment on my own car that I've been putting off for ***waytoolong***

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Ha, I have a Mustang protector as well for working on the DeLorean. How often is a valve adjustment needed? Sorry, still semi-new to the car...

[gluaisrothaii]

DPI coilovers front and rear; billet LCAs and stabilizers. Found a bent right lower control arm pivot bolt on disassembly. Deloreango vented disks while I"m in there. Compressing the coils was a little nerve wracking.




https://photos.smugmug.com/Cars/1981-DMC-12/i-Tq6gn2r/0/2a4f6d69/XL/IMG_4576_heic-XL.jpg (https://klevins.smugmug.com/Cars/1981-DMC-12/i-Tq6gn2r/A)

https://photos.smugmug.com/Cars/1981-DMC-12/i-VMJ4Lgv/0/11ab6e6d/XL/IMG_4676_heic-XL.jpg (https://klevins.smugmug.com/Cars/1981-DMC-12/i-VMJ4Lgv/A)

https://photos.smugmug.com/Cars/1981-DMC-12/i-QPxMmzm/0/0b7c8667/XL/IMG_4681_heic-XL.jpg (https://klevins.smugmug.com/Cars/1981-DMC-12/i-QPxMmzm/A)

https://photos.smugmug.com/Cars/1981-DMC-12/i-krCP2Dt/0/aa4d66c4/XL/IMG_4714_heic-XL.jpg (https://klevins.smugmug.com/Cars/1981-DMC-12/i-krCP2Dt/A)

https://photos.smugmug.com/Cars/1981-DMC-12/i-3zD56jL/0/8e09f70a/XL/IMG_4707_heic-XL.jpg (https://klevins.smugmug.com/Cars/1981-DMC-12/i-3zD56jL/A)

[the_watcher87]

I had that same issue. It turned out my circuit breaker was the incorrect amperage and was tripping every few minutes. It was also getting very hot! I installed the correct amperage breaker and also switched both relays to the McKeen solid state. Those two actions alone reduced heat drastically and stopped the breaker from tripping.

While you’re at it, check the blower resistor pack near the blower motor. Mine was extraordinarily rusty. IIRC it only controls speeds 1 and 2 but it’s a cheap and easy replacement if needed.

All sorted, I had a faulty circuit breaker. Switched out and no further issues.

Now onto why my interior dome light will not work when door is opened, I've bookmarked some forums topics in the hope they can help me sort this out. By looking around here and on the UK club forum the previous owner had this issue but I don't believe he looked into it too much.

[DMCMW Dave]

Ha, I have a Mustang protector as well for working on the DeLorean. How often is a valve adjustment needed? Sorry, still semi-new to the car...

Nominally every 30K miles. In reality - depends on things like oil used, type of driving, etc. Mine had been done (by me) a few thousand miles/10+ years ago and it always seemed to me that there was one that was a bit noisy. Never found the time (until now) to look at it again.

[FABombjoy]

Compressing the coils was a little nerve wracking.
Too little too late, but if you're removing the LCAs & the springs, compressing the coil to the LCA and removing them both as a unit makes this job much less terrifying.

[CFI]

All sorted, I had a faulty circuit breaker. Switched out and no further issues.

Now onto why my interior dome light will not work when door is opened, I've bookmarked some forums topics in the hope they can help me sort this out. By looking around here and on the UK club forum the previous owner had this issue but I don't believe he looked into it too much.

Silly question, but are you sure the light is set to the correct position? It’s a 3 position rocker, right? On, off, door?

[the_watcher87]

Silly question, but are you sure the light is set to the correct position? It’s a 3 position rocker, right? On, off, door?

Got it sorted, after lots of checking wiring continuity ended up being a previous owner had connected the wires wrong. Should have started with the easy stuff first :jawdrop:

[Bitsyncmaster]

I bought some anti-freeze today. Walmart is still the best place at $10.88 gal for concentrated. I have had the otterstat pipe with the screw in otterstat for a few years now and figure it's a good time to install that and replace the coolant.

[CFI]

I finally removed my center console, replaced some HVAC bulbs, and sent my radio to Dimitri to work his magic. I’ve only been putting it off for a year or so.

[dmcerik]

I have a spare set of brakes calipers that I'm rebuilding. Then rebuilding the set that's currently on my car just for fun. I'll be swapping out all 4 rotors during that time too.

Outside of that, I've been out of the Delorean scene for awhile. In the late 90s and early 00's I collected a few parts cars. All the normal good parts have probably been taken, which leaves me with about 12 big boxes full of random pieces. I'm using this time to go through all that again and see what I have. And then either find new homes for those pieces, or junk them.

[DaraSue]

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Heater hard lines too, I guess. Never leave your car parked for 23 years with coolant in the lines, kids!

[Farrar]

My "isolation" projects:

1. taillight upgrade
2. AT computer replacement

[DaraSue]

Turns out you can't replace those heater lines without taking the body off the frame so I just had to clean them up and make do. But then during pressure testing the y-pipe hose sprung a leak so now I get to pull the intake off for the 3rd time in 3-1/2 years, oh joy.

[mr_maxime]

Turns out you can't replace those heater lines without taking the body off the frame so I just had to clean them up and make do. But then during pressure testing the y-pipe hose sprung a leak so now I get to pull the intake off for the 3rd time in 3-1/2 years, oh joy.

I don't need mine anymore if you'd like to buy them. Too bad it's right next to the fuel lines or I'd say you could try having them welded.

[Bitsyncmaster]

Well I finally did it. I installed my new otterstat pipe with the screw in otterstat.

First problem was dripping leaks from the rear hose (that was a new OEM hose about 13 years ago). Fix was use more than 40 inch/lbs of torque. Someday I need to get the silicone replacements for those. All the other hoses are silicone and that front one did not leak with 40 inch/lbs. This was with no pressure just filled the coolant.

Second problem was a drip from the new otterstat. I pulled it out and saw the aluminum crush washer had only contacted in two places 180 degrees apart. I had given that a lot of torque before I installed the pipe. So I think the problem was the otterstat was not getting tight on the crush washer. I had a spare otterstat and installed that with two crush washers and that seemed to work with no leaks. By the way you need a 29 mm socket for that otterstat.

Third problem was a mud dobber built it's nest in the thermostat bleed nipple.

I need to do a few cool down and warmups to be sure all the air is out and engine is running normal temps.

[Jonathan]

The two main things I've been working on are an ATF leak and replacing the fuel filter. My little ATF drip from the past season or two turned into a lot more than just a few drips once the garage warmed up. Figure that's got to be related to the rubber seals expanding or contracting. Pretty much all of it is coming from the seal on the base of the dipstick tube. Pain in the rump I'll get to shortly, but wanted to finish the fuel filter first. I did drain the ATF cause I was tired of getting dripped on while working on the fuel system!

My fuel filter was original as far as I can tell. 39 years worth, yeehaw. Looked like shit though. So I bought new clamps, fasteners and filter and also had my last new SS fuel line to put in that was part of a nice kit from DPI Josh. All that's pretty much good. Now I struggle with the accumulator/hardline side.

Back story on this one is back in about 2011, when a shop I used to help me replace my accumulator got a little too twisty with getting things loose, they created a small pinhole leak in the hardline just in front of the filter. He went ahead and cut that short section out and put in a short piece of rubber fuel line hose in its place. Was fine ever since then, no leaks or any trouble.

For the life of me I couldn't get that hardline fitting end to seal again. Figure the little bevel thing on the end got too corroded or misshapen and it won't seal. I reefed on the nut pretty good, but it just wouldn't cooperate. So, instead, I'm going to put this flexible hose replacement I have had for years in finally. It's meant to replace that hardline and came from Midwest once upon a time.

The routing is slightly different from what I understand. It won't go through that same hole in the frame that the hardline does. Instead, it'll go along the frame, up over the driver's side transmission mount and then in through the hole in the frame where the shift cable is. That gets it into the accumulator hole to connect with the centre connection on the accumulator.

I wasn't sure how hard I can pull on the 17 mm wrench on that hardline nut, but figure it's going to take a big tug to get it loose. The hose has an M14 connection on a 90 degree fitting to go on there. I'm not sure what size that tee is on the accumulator though and whether I can connect it to where the hardline goes or connect it to the accumulator directly and not use the tee. Anyone know? It'd probably be better for routing and not bending the hose so much if it goes onto the tee right where the hardline nut is because of how it needs to turn back towards the rear of the car to get out that hole in the frame.

Not my favorite place to be under the car while on jack stands. Trying to figure out as much of this above ground as possible.

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[Bob635]

1. Get ready for Delorean Weekend
2. More development of the Iron Man Delorean
3. Electric power steering in the Electric Delorean
4. 1000 sq ft addition to home with media and lecture room
5. New Delorean Documentary "the Missing Pieces - Part 1."
6. Consulting to public health agencies on COV - 2.
7. On line Trivia with our "trivaholics" team.
8. Working with the NIH on our next publication
9. lot's of other things