Door Lock Procedure

[FLYBOY]

Anyone got a good Door Lock Procedure
Could be both doors?
Finally have the time after years of not throwing both locks and getting stuck
Wiper arms appear to be making contact?https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200402/f835a2ecb184c55f33e6191678ef4bc8.jpg


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[DMC-81]

Anyone got a good Door Lock Procedure
Could be both doors?
Finally have the time after years of not throwing both locks and getting stuck
Wiper arms appear to be making contact?https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200402/f835a2ecb184c55f33e6191678ef4bc8.jpg


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Are you looking to adjust or repair?

For adjustment, here is the associated bulletin: https://www.dmcnews.com/bulletins/ST-10-8.81.html

For refurbishment, I see that you have a newer solenoid, but here's my refurb thread if it helps:

http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?13059-Assessing-OEM-Door-Lock-Module-(DLM)-and-solenoids

Mine have been rock solid since.

[Rich]

DeLorean Workshop Manual
P:02:11-12

[FLYBOY]

Adjustmment


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[FLYBOY]

Controller is fine had Dave look at it
Does anyone have pictures describing the rods
Cause I’m Totally confused on which ones to touch!


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[Ron]

Here is a diagram missing from the Service Bulletin above:
63221

But, the WS Manual procedures work better for me:

DOOR LOCK SETTING PROCEDURE

1. Disconnect proper fuse or negative battery cable.

2. Remove upper and lower interior door trim.

3. Disconnect the rear link and the front lock link from the bellcrank assembly.

4. Pivot the locking bellcrank assembly back and forth. Check that the contact wiper arm on the bellcrank makes effective contact to the electrical contact points at each limit of travel. If not, adjust the position of the door lock solenoid by loosening the solenoid's attaching screws. Re-tighten solenoid attaching screws.

5. Rotate the lock bellcrank to the "UNLOCK" position (solenoid plunger retracted).

6. Pull the front locking link rearward to remove the free play and connect to the bellcrank. Check that the switch's electrical contacts position has not changed (Step 3). If necessary, adjust the bend in the front locking
link to obtain no free play; no pre-load, and a good electrical contact condition.

7. Pull the rear locking link forward to remove any free play. Adjust the rear locking link (if necessary) until it matches the established bellcrank position. Connect the rear locking link to bellcrank.

8. With the door open, manually close both the front and rear door latch assemblies.

9. Move the interior locking control rocker to the lock position and then back to the unlock position. Check both the mechanical and electrical operation of the locking system.

10. With the system in the unlock position and door open, return the latches to the release position.


The Latches:
63222

[David T]

While the procedure in the manual and the bulletin is good, IMHO it is lacking. It assumes the anchor pins have been properly adjusted and both latches achieve "second locking position" simultaneously. That should be done BEFORE trying to do the internal door adjustments. Many times the reason the doors need internal adjustment is because both latches don't get to the second locking position and then you try to lock the door and force it and bend the rods. So check and if necessary adjust the anchor pins first and then go over the internal adjustments. The first time you do it it is a little confusing but after that it gets easier and faster. One adjustment affects the others so you may have to do it multiple times. Also be very careful of all of the sharp edges inside the doors. Very easy to cut yourself badly, the S/S is VERY sharp!

[Ron]

While the procedure in the manual and the bulletin is good, IMHO it is lacking. It assumes the anchor pins have been properly adjusted and both latches achieve "second locking position" simultaneously. That should be done BEFORE trying to do the internal door adjustments. Many times the reason the doors need internal adjustment is because both latches don't get to the second locking position and then you try to lock the door and force it and bend the rods. So check and if necessary adjust the anchor pins first and then go over the internal adjustments. The first time you do it it is a little confusing but after that it gets easier and faster. One adjustment affects the others so you may have to do it multiple times. Also be very careful of all of the sharp edges inside the doors. Very easy to cut yourself badly, the S/S is VERY sharp!
+1!

[FLYBOY]

Ok thanks looks like this is exactly what I needed but I believe my anchor pins are off because they don’t grab at the same time
So I should do that 1st
Any chance you got that procedure?

And Yes I’ve cut myself many times but never have been able to get this right through the years
Determined this time with everyone’s help!
Since I’ve got the time off now
Thanks


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[Ron]

Yes, do the anchor pins first.

What I do:

Always shut the door by pushing it down outside at the place even with where the pull strap is inside (not back by the handle, etc).

Mark where the pins are before beginning.

Make sure that the pin heads miss everything in the receiver except the the latch arm using large washers to move them left and right.

While holding the handle in the release position, lower the door to make sure the style lines will align with the body without help. (If not, carefully persuade it until it will ;-)

Push the door down slowly until you hear one side fully latch (2 clicks). Check the alignment on that side.
Adjust up/down accordingly.
Adjust remaining side.

==================

After adjusting the latch release with either procedure, I get a helper to pull down on one latch while I pull on the other. Then adjust the rear link until they both release at the exact same time when pulling the the handle very slowly. (It will be less than one turn.)

Make sure that the lock fuse is pulled or the battery is disconnected while making adjustments.

Don't forget- The locks will not cycle when the latches are not in the closed position and to open them before closing the door.

About bending the rods and jamming up David mentioned- If the latch pin is WAY off and it latches in the 1st position with the door fully shut, it may seem to act normally, i.e., it is when the latch is open or in between the 1st and 2nd position that it jambs or refuses to cooperate. ...just stressing the point to get two clicks, each door. Otherwise, in this case, if someone slams the door and it happens to get to the 2nd latch,you will not be happy...

[FLYBOY]

Doing it tomorrow then the rods inside wish me luck and any last minute advice ? cause I’m sure I’ll have questions during
Also what do you mean by pulling down on one latch while someone pulls on the other
Could ya explain haven’t got into it yet so kinda confused
Thanks


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[Ron]

Also what do you mean by pulling down on one latch while someone pulls on the other
Could ya explain haven’t got into it yet so kinda confused
Thanks

In the latch (not lock) adjustment procedure at P:02:11, step 10 says:
"10. Set rear latch in the closed position. With a screwdriver or similar tool, apply pressure on latch. Slowly adjust rear link until latch opens.
Be sure bellcrank position remains unchanged."
Before tightening the rear link's lock nut (step 11), I like to make sure they release at the exact same time. It takes several hands: one to pull down on the front latch, one for the rear latch, one to pull the handle very slowly and adjust the link.


EDIT: Good Luck!

[FLYBOY]

Does anyone have page P2:11 apparently mine is missing.

I got 3 out of 4 anchor pins aligned but the last one just won’t catch. Unless I extend with 3 washers but then it hits the guide!
Any ideas
Once I get that I’ll check the door release then start on the adjustments inside[emoji1696]


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[Ron]

It can be hard to see exactly where it hits. Cleaning it all off and putting a thin layer of colored grease on the 'nail head' can help...

If it is hitting the outer circumference/brim of the nail head, move the pin in or out.
If it is hitting the face or under the nail head, use 1 thinner/thicker washer...

======

FWIW- I noticed that, using the hybrid manual in the Resources section here and Acrobat X Pro, "P:02:11" does not show up when I search for it -- But it is there.

63286

[FLYBOY]

Wow got the anchor pin to align
And started on the driver door however adjusting the rod I forgot to disconnect 1st got too excited and broke the tab on rear latch but thankfully I had a spare.

The adjustment was way off on a lot of rods almost there I believe only the front rod needs lengthening as once I push down fully on the door it opens, but it just got too late tonight.
You guys were spot on those directions really helped me tremendously. David T. and Ron
Thank you not there yet but progress
As I finally fully understand it I think?
I’ve had the Delorean since 99’ and they have never worked
But if I can fix this I’ll absolutely love driving the car again!

The next project will be fixing the door launchers from Toby.
I installed years ago they are not working either electrical issue, I believe. But not getting ahead of myself, just yet.
Hopefully Tomorrow I’ll have some good news cause I’m dedicating all morning to the doors!


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[FLYBOY]

Adjusted the driver however I’m Unable to get either lock to lock
I tried everything so frustrating the rear latch opens whether it’s locked or not.. it’s an old lock, could it be broken?
The front locks rarely door opens fine and is aligned.
Need some help!


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[David T]

I have found that on some cars no amount of adjusting would seem to work. When that happens you take the locks out, clean them and regrease them. The old grease and dirt acts like glue and nothing moves smoothy and easily.

[FLYBOY]

Yeah David I went over that procedure backwards and forward spent bout 5 hours
I fully understand it think the lock is dirty or bad cause it was in my box as spare
Does the door pivot point with the adjustment nut for the handle help I noticed it effects things and where should it be?
Maybe that is throwing things off but I tried all different combinations

Might try the other door hopefully better results?


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[David T]

Doing one adjustment affects other adjustments. Not only will you do this many times to learn how to do it, every time you do it you get all of the adjustments closer and closer. By the time you are done you will be able to do this in a fraction of the time it took you the first time. You do need a lot of patience. One neat "trick" I learned from Rob Grady, take a large S hook and attach a small piece of cable to it with a loop to one end. Sit on the door sill facing the door, bring the door down and hook it with the cable over the door pin and the S hook into a screw hole by the latch. Now you can sit comfortably while working inside the door. BTW, if your door got tweaked it will never hold an adjustment. On one car I worked on the car was in the owner's driveway and the motor died. No problem, they just pushed the car back into the garage. Too bad they left the door open and it hit the house and got tweaked. No obvious damage but the welds broke inside and the door was "floppy". You can tell by grabbing the bottom of an open door and wiggling it side to side. Best cure is to replace the door but maybe it can be welded or glued. Anyway I couldn't get it to hold any adjustments and it never worked right. On another car the door was removed and not put back exactly right. No amount of adjustment is going to fix that till you get the door lined up just right and it isn't easy. A good reason to never remove a door unless you absolutely must. Last point. Before doing the internal door adjustments not only must you adjust the anchor pins, the struts should be in good shape and the torsion bars properly adjusted. If they are too tight they tweak the door by all of that added power on the one side. It can take a LOT of work to get the doors just right but if you are thinking of installing the door launchers you MUST be finicky and get it working perfectly. The doors are a signature element of the Delorean and they should work perfectly. Once you get the doors to open, close, lock and unlock right you can move on to the Central Locking System. A whole other topic. Then you can do the door launchers.

[Ron]

Does the door pivot point with the adjustment nut for the handle help I noticed it effects things and where should it be?
If you mean the release handle control cable lock nut, you don't want to move it after setting the latches...

P.S. I forgot that I posted the lock procedure already, so I deleted my previous post.

[FLYBOY]

David, great Advice really good stuff

First I moved to the passenger door and readjusted in only 25 minutes so apparently I know what I’m doing thankfully.

Fortunately I don’t think I’m in too much trouble at first I thought maybe although the door did get dinged years ago it was in the side and nearly all dings came out (no where near the rods)
But the latches never correctly worked before that anyway.
I worked on that driver door some more bout another hour or so not willing to give up and I got it to lock and unlock the rear latch as well as the front.
However the rear is not locking all the way once it’s closed it’s a little loose (I may need a new rod) but I believe can adjust it.
Obviously it’s the rear latch rod that is the issue (not the rear lock rod) hopefully tomorrow it should be resolved and then on to the locking system.
Otherwise I’ll be back to square one?

One issue that I see is the passenger door lock throws the driver door fine in both directions but the driver door lock hardly moves the passenger lock. Central locking system
I’ll need a hand in that.
Would this be related and how would I fix that?

Torsion bar was adjusted few years ago in Naples and struts are good.
I had the launchers installed before and they worked fine but sometimes they would stick cause of the locks, like you said obviously need the locks to work correctly, once I’ll get this correct.
With your guys help
I’ll start on those as I believe it electrical.
I’ll read over your notes again in case I missed something but tell me what ya think.


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[Ron]

I worked on that driver door some more bout another hour or so not willing to give up and I got it to lock and unlock the rear latch as well as the front.
However the rear is not locking all the way once it’s closed it’s a little loose (I may need a new rod) but I believe can adjust it.
Obviously it’s the rear latch rod that is the issue (not the rear lock rod) hopefully tomorrow it should be resolved and then on to the locking system.

Sounds like you need to lower the rear pin...remember 2 clicks for each latch.

[David T]

To simplify things some owners remove the locking rod to the front latch and only lock and unlock the rear latch.

[FLYBOY]

Sounds like you need to lower the rear pin...remember 2 clicks for each latch.

Got it!
Thanks David and Ron
Had to lengthen the rear lock rod quite a bit a lot!
But everything is working perfect only thin now is the driver door doesn’t throw the lock on passenger side!
Central Locking System?
Where to go from there?
Thanks again guys


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[David T]

Now you're up to the CLS. Could be a bad solenoid, dirty/mis-adjusted wiper switch, a bad connection or a problem with the door lock module. Let's start by removing the door lock module and examine the contacts to see if they are burnt.

[Ron]

To simplify things some owners remove the locking rod to the front latch and only lock and unlock the rear latch.
Never tried that. What happens when someone tries to open the door when one side is is locked,i.e., does it act normal or releases one side or ??

[David T]

The mechanism is such that if one latch is locked you can't open the door. I don't advise removing the locking rod to the front, I only mentioned that some owners have done it. IMHO there should be no reason to remove that rod, you should be able to adjust things and make it work the way it was intended.

[Ron]

Agreed...I was just curious.

[Ron]

Does the passenger side lock if you use the key, on either side; or manually, on either side?

[FLYBOY]

Now you're up to the CLS. Could be a bad solenoid, dirty/mis-adjusted wiper switch, a bad connection or a problem with the door lock module. Let's start by removing the door lock module and examine the contacts to see if they are burnt.

1st thing I did
Sent into David”Bitsyncer”
Everything is fine on that
I’ll look it tonight with an update on the things you said


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[FLYBOY]

Does the passenger side lock if you use the key, on either side, or manually, on either side?

Well one of the first things I did was remove the lock cylinder from the driver door it was working fine. Not sure if was throwing the passenger side? I didn’t think it had anything to with the adjustments I was making and took it out of the equation.
Just figured I would add that back once everything was all set.
The reason I removed it was I was sanding the car.

Long story short went out to the car to check things out and plugged the lock module in and battery and everything is working as it should, both doors are throwing both locks in either direction.
So hopefully they will continue too?
Fingers crossed[emoji1696]


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[Ron]

:thumbup:

[David T]

If the problem comes and goes it would indicate a bad connection, not a bad solenoid. If the contacts inside the door module are not burnt then the solenoids are probably OK. Hopefully the more you use it the better it gets.

[FLYBOY]

If the problem comes and goes it would indicate a bad connection, not a bad solenoid. If the contacts inside the door module are not burnt then the solenoids are probably OK. Hopefully the more you use it the better it gets.

Thanks David and Ron
Appreciate all the help big time

[FLYBOY]

Issue with the rear lock rod on driver door,
It works fine if I pull the rod by hand.
Then If I disconnect it from the wiper arm, everything works fine and CLS too but as soon as connect it the CLS doesn’t work.
Now I’ve adjusted that rod every which way but to no avail
Any suggestions
I’m thinkin could be the latch?


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[Ron]

When you put the rear arm back in, do you have to move the bell crank or anything else to align the hole?
(...remember the CLS will not lock if the door's latches are not latched.)

======

If you just went through the procedure again, try shortening the rear release rod: 1/8 turn, then try it, 1/8 turn, try ..., etc. Shouldn't take much.

[FLYBOY]

No
I’ll try 1/8 now


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[FLYBOY]

It’s appears the wiper arm has the slightest play in it as it doesn’t bottom out next to the solenoid even though the rocker switch is
unhttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200429/10533e64a58609f4996f1d0d5fd4529d.jpg
Fully unlocked
I tried moving the solenoid back but there’s no more.?


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[Ron]

Hard to see and be 100% sure...But if the rod enclosed in red below has a bend in it going through the actuator (at the arrow), try removing everything enclosed in red:
63497


Then to keep the the stock solenoid-to-bell crank geometry (post 6), Loctite a nut and bolt in the bell crank as below:
63496


Now put the end of the actuator over the bolt...
(After you are sure everything is ok, you may want to go back and dull down the protruding threads to keep them from chewing on the actuator hole (or find a threaded pin, fill them with something like fast epoxy then smooth out....)
Finally, go through both procedures from scratch again...:rant:


EDIT: You should find/replace this nylon guide shown in your 1st pic:
63498

[FLYBOY]

Ok so I’ve spent a few hours this morning
Did the retrofit bolt on the actuator and it appeared to help from looks only.
I readjusted the entire driver door again, it is all good but Only when I manually use that rocker switch.
CLS won’t work to unlock

But it appears the problem is the wiper arm does not come down to unlock when the other switch is thrown or the keyless. Even with all rods disconnected!
I am baffled tried moving the wiper arm around to make certain it hits the lower contact and it does it just won’t go when the passenger door is thrown to unlock. Only manually as if it doesn’t have the power and gets hung up.
What to do What to do


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[Bitsyncmaster]

Now I see your running actuators. If the timing on your door lock ECU is to short, it won't power the actuators long enough. The original fan Zilla the timing was to short for actuators. The OEM lock unit seemed to have plenty of time. What Zilla did was use the same circuit but used larger relays that needed more current and thus shortened the time. You can increase the time on either lock ECU by increasing the 1000 uf cap to a larger value. Adding another 1000 uf cap over the original ones will double the capacitance and hence double the time it powers the outputs.

[Ron]

Does using the key on the driver side make it lock and unlock?

[FLYBOY]

I’ll check

[FLYBOY]

Well so far, going back through it again...
After I readjusted the driver door
If I leave the front (non adjustable) (and lord knows I tried to adjust) lock release disconnected and the exterior key lock rod
Everything works fine!
The front lock latch appears to stick so I’ll change that out tomorrow.. and see, I think I have a spare.
I’ll add the exterior key lock after that.
But after most of the day on the driver door some progress?
It only doesn’t throw on the driver door so I don’t think it would be the relays but Bitsycner did look at the relays and there were fine so not sure

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[Ron]

If I'm following correctly, it went from working with the rear lock link ("lock rod", post 35) disconnected, to working with the front lock link ("lock latch") disconnected. That be the case, I don't see the problem being either latch.

When you put the front lock link in the bellcrank, make sure that the arm at the front latch is pulled toward the bellcrank (unlocked position). With the actuator retracted (unlocked position), pull on the rod to eliminate any slack and bend it so that it will slip into its bellcrank hole without moving the bellcrank. Make sure that the arm at the rear latch is pulled toward the bellcrank (unlocked position). Pull on the rod to eliminate any slack and adjust it so that it will slip into its bellcrank hole without moving the bellcrank. Make sure that the bends at the latch end of both links are oriented correctly and that both lock nuts are tight on the rear link. (If the ends are rotated wrong, the bends can work their way into the hole in the plastic arm and bind things up...)

[FLYBOY]

I was just waiting on a wiper arm since mine broke while adjusting and it wasn’t making a good contact
w/o rods. Anyway.
Got the new one installed along with a new driver front latch just to be sure it doesn’t jam up like the previous old one.
Well everything is working fine except the dam front lock latch rod won’t reach (non adjustable) of course I tried bending it but to no Avail.
Right now it’s disconnected and even the launchers are working too but as soon as I connect it things bind up.
I know some owners leave it disconnected but after weeks of work I hate to have one last rod not connected
I want Success any suggestions maybe a new rod?


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[SS Spoiler]

been running 20 years without front lock
rod.....no problems...

[Ron]

A new rod isn't going to be any longer...
I don't think the front one usually needs much bending, if at all. Maybe try bending it back like it was or match the one in the other door.
If it all works now w/o the front rod, I would think you could them lengthen the rear link until the front slips in freely. Then move the actuator/solenoid assembly to get the wiper arm back into position.
...double check that the latches release at the same time afterwards.

[FLYBOY]

Ok so are ya sayin move everything alittle forward?


I hesitant cause it took so long to get it this close but I’ll do it
Now
I one thing thats got me scratching my head, is the CLS is not working with 100% consistity on that driver door the locks don’t get throw with the remote all the time, maybe 60/40 but by hand everything works 100%
Now I have 12.6v on the battery but I noticed with a battery charger they do throw no problem with the remote


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[Ron]

Ok so are ya sayin move everything alittle forwardYes...after taking the rear rod out of the bellcrank.
Everything is based off of the OEM length of the front rod. So even if you have to start over, you have to set the bellcrank off of it by moving the actuator, then go from there.


...one thing thats got me scratching my head, is the CLS is not working with 100% consistity on that driver door the locks don’t get throw with the remote all the time, maybe 60/40 but by hand everything works 100%??? Except when the front rod is disconnected, right?


Now I have 12.6v on the battery but I noticed with a battery charger they do throw no problem with the remote

If the battery will turn the engine over by itself, it's not the problem.
(12.6V doesn't mean there is enough amperage.)

[David T]

From my experience, if you can't get the CLS to work consistently, it usually winds up being burnt up solenoids. The more you try it the worse it gets as the solenoids get hotter and hotter. There is a procedure to take them apart and rewind them or you can just get new ones.

[FLYBOY]

Ok I’ll try readjusting tomorrow
On the lock relay I have Hervey’s unit and bitsyncer checked it out 3 weeks ago said everything looked ok.
Should I have a second opinion and who could do that?
Maybe it got worse idk?
Remember I do have Toby upgraded solenoids




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[FLYBOY]

Well looks like I can either get the front lock rod or the rear lock rod to work but not both.
Adjusting the other rods do not seems to help, as the wiper arm doesn’t move forward or rearward since it’s screwed to the door.
I believe to main culprit to be the actuator as it does not seem to have the strength to pull one way or another.
Now without the lock rods installed it works fine or if it’s pressed by hand on that side, but not from the other side or by remote, it’s seems to be too weak to throw all the way from opposing side.
I’ve ordered another actuator from Toby
I’ll see what that result is when I get it in.


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[Bitsyncmaster]

Remember your lock ECU may have to short of an on time for actuators. I never tested the timing, just the function when I had it here. The stock lock ECU had plenty of time to work actuators but the Zilla was to short. They all seemed to run the same circuit but the timing is dependent on the current required by the relays.

If you have a soldering iron, get 2, 1000 uf. 16 volt capacitors and bridge one over each or the existing 1000 uf caps. That will double the time on with the ECU.

[Ron]

+1

FWIW- It sounds like it might be set up correctly, so between the two, I'd lean toward the CLS and try the caps since back in post 24 it was the passenger side acting up.

[Bitsyncmaster]

I got the door lock unit today. The on time is definitely short at 160 ms. for each lock and unlock. I think the OEM unit ran around 1 second. So Hervey put in relays with a high coil current requirement. Now I have to look through my junk box for some capacitors that will fit in the case.

[Bitsyncmaster]

I found some caps. Timing now 340 ms.

Not sure if this is an OEM door lock unit and Hervey did some work on it so he put his sticker on the case.

[FLYBOY]

Well he did something I sent him the one I had in there I think it was oem?


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[Bitsyncmaster]

Well he did something I sent him the one I had in there I think it was oem?

Maybe I'm wrong in thinking the OEM door lock unit was around 1 second of timing. I think my Zilla unit was around 100 ms. I now run my own design for the door lock unit.

Since your running actuators, I'm guessing you have added the relays so the outputs now ground or switch to 12 volt pulses driving the actuators. The OEM door lock unit just floats the off circuit which works for the stock solenoid.

Let me know that you have the relay setup before I ship your door lock unit back to you.

[Bitsyncmaster]

So it looks like Toby changed his lock actuators to work with the OEM door lock unit. I have his old ones and it only had two wires where you had to reverse the ground and 12 volts to work them the other way. It looks like now there is a ground and two wires that attach to the two OEM solenoid wires.

But his site says works with his door lock unit. So I'm still not seeing info on the actuators. I know when I bought mine he offered a kit of relays you had to use with the OEM door lock unit.

[FLYBOY]

I’ll take a picture


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[Bitsyncmaster]

I’ll take a picture


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Did you install the actuators? I only saw two wires on your photos. Can you get a photo of your relay compartment. I still can't see how they work without the relays on an OEM door lock unit.

[FLYBOY]

Yeah actuators have been installed for years and working not sure of correctly but they appear too


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[Bitsyncmaster]

Yeah actuators have been installed for years and working not sure of correctly but they appear too


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For all those following this thread. Yes the relays are installed for the actuators which is why they were working (almost).

[FLYBOY]

Ok Got the lock unit back updated (thx Dave) and new wiper arm plus a new actuator from Toby installed on the driver door but even with the rods disconnected on the driver door lock doesn’t get thrown to the lock position (just half way)
There’s not much room to move the new solenoid. Either way.
Now By hand it’s ok but from opposite passenger door it doesn’t get thrown nor by remote.
Any suggestions obviously I’m not doing something right?
Appreciate it


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[Bitsyncmaster]

Ok Got the lock unit back updated (thx Dave) and new wiper arm plus a new actuator from Toby installed on the driver door but even with the rods disconnected on the driver door lock doesn’t get thrown to the lock position (just half way)
There’s not much room to move the new solenoid. Either way.
Now By hand it’s ok but from opposite passenger door it doesn’t get thrown nor by remote.
Any suggestions obviously I’m not doing something right?
Appreciate it


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Does it work any better with the engine running? Just a thought maybe your getting low voltage on the door locks.

[Ron]

+1 ...That was my first thought, but it bugs me that it was always able to move with all of the links connected (even if it did jamb up).


If you are up for a ~2 hour drive, I'll help you cuss it for free! :deviltail:

[FLYBOY]

So Progress, I started it up and it was working with all rear rods disconnected. Put those back on one by one an it works, except the rear lock latch rod.
I’ve tried adjusting that one but nothing seems to work?
Once I install it, it just binds everything up and causes problems.
Ron I don’t mind the drive at all what’s your schedule like next week?
I’ve been messing with this for far too long...lol
My email is 8< snip >8

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[Ron]

John, check your PMs for my phone #.

[FLYBOY]

Ok will do I’ll call either later today or Tues.


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