Sons new Delorean No spark

[3886ad]

Hi Everyone.
Desperately need help.
car was running fine then suddenly cut out.
Back in my drive no spark at the plugs. Put plug into coil (bypassing distributor cap and rotor) lead. No spark.
12 Volts at input to resistor coil. 4 volts at coil.

12 volts at green lead into ICU.
O.5 volts A/c from distributor pick up
Changed coil, changed resistor pack changed starter relay changed main relay.

Put 12 volts from battery to input of coil still no spark.
Continuity on white/grey lead to coil from ICU. checked.

About to put bypass wire to replace white/grey.in case earthed on route.

All help gratefully received.
Thank you.

[Michael]

Check the wire from the left side bulkhead/firewall to coil. The plug is not super tight and may work loose.

[Bitsyncmaster]

I assume your tach is not moving when your cranking the engine. If so, my guess is your ignition ECU is not firing. Not often those go bad so check wiring first. You should also check the pickup coil at the ECU connector is about 700 ohms.

[3886ad]

Check the wire from the left side bulkhead/firewall to coil. The plug is not super tight and may work loose.

HI. Thanks for your reply.
Yellow connector checked and tightened. Definite connectivity between Ignition control unit and coil.

[3886ad]

I assume your tach is not moving when your cranking the engine. If so, my guess is your ignition ECU is not firing. Not often those go bad so check wiring first. You should also check the pickup coil at the ECU connector is about 700 ohms.

Hi Thanks for your reply. I think there is a little movement at the tacho, but not knowing how much is good, I am unsure. How noticeable should it be.?

[3886ad]

Hi Thanks for your reply. I think there is a little movement at the tacho, but not knowing how much is good, I am unsure. How noticeable should it be.?

Hi. I will check the distributor. sender resistance.

[Jonathan]

What were the circumstances when it cut out? Driving? Parked? Something recently being worked on and perhaps bumped something near to it?

Is your car an automatic or manual transmission?

Has your car had the inertia switch recall/replacement/relocation upgrade done? Does the inertia switch look okay upon visual inspection? Plunger on top is in the down position?

[Bitsyncmaster]

Hi Thanks for your reply. I think there is a little movement at the tacho, but not knowing how much is good, I am unsure. How noticeable should it be.?

With a good battery you get 500 to 700 RPM when cranking.

[3886ad]

Hi. I will check the distributor. sender resistance.

Hi Thanks.

I have the wiring diagram from the manual on line.
Which should I check.

31d and 7. ? Ta

[3886ad]

With a good battery you get 500 to 700 RPM when cranking.

Hi. Hardly a flicker .Nowhere near that.
Ta.

[3886ad]

What were the circumstances when it cut out? Driving? Parked? Something recently being worked on and perhaps bumped something near to it?

Is your car an automatic or manual transmission?

Has your car had the inertia switch recall/replacement/relocation upgrade done? Does the inertia switch look okay upon visual inspection? Plunger on top is in the down position?

Hi. Thanks for yoyr reply.
Car was driving and its a manual.
Alternator connections cleaned to restore charging.
Running fine afterwards in drive. stopped 1 mile down the road.
Inertia switch checked. Thanks.

[3886ad]

I assume your tach is not moving when your cranking the engine. If so, my guess is your ignition ECU is not firing. Not often those go bad so check wiring first. You should also check the pickup coil at the ECU connector is about 700 ohms.

Hi Thanks.

I have the wiring diagram from the manual on line.
Which should I check.

31d and 7. ? Ta

[3886ad]

Hi Everyone . I'm new to this so learning how to reply!! Ta.

[Ron]

Yes, 31d and 7...disconnected.

[3886ad]

Yes, 31d and 7...disconnected.

Hi There. 670 ohms.

[Jonathan]

Hi. Thanks for yoyr reply.
Car was driving and its a manual.
Alternator connections cleaned to restore charging.
Running fine afterwards in drive. stopped 1 mile down the road.
Inertia switch checked. Thanks.

Perhaps you need to pull the battery out of the car and put it on a charger on your workbench for the day? It might just be dead/undercharged.

[3886ad]

Perhaps you need to pull the battery out of the car and put it on a charger on your workbench for the day? It might just be dead/undercharged.

HI. I've been struggling with this on and off for two weeks while self isolating. As its a new car to my son and obviously to me I am suspecting some sort of immobiliser

Am I right in thinking if I wire 12 volts to coil 15 and put a link wire direct from terminal 16 ICU to no1 on coil. 15 on ICU is live so I should get a spark. on coil dizzy lead.
This would bypass all else. Then I can look for a break in point.
Ta

[Ron]

Remove everything from the coil. Feed it 12V where the WY wire was (+). Then see if it fires when you repeatedly strike the WS terminal (-) with a spare wire to ground. (Checks WS for break/short...)

==============

$ .02:
If the battery turns it over near normal speed , there should be plenty for the ignition...

[Bitsyncmaster]

The stock ignition ECU should ground it's pin 16 (white/slate wire) when the key is turned on and engine not running. If your getting 12 volts at that connection then 99% sure your ECU is bad.

[Ron]

The stock ignition ECU should ground it's pin 16 (white/slate wire) when the key is turned on and engine not running. If your getting 12 volts at that connection then 99% sure your ECU is bad.+1...about has to be one of the two.

======

Where are you located?
Maybe someone nearby would be willing to let you use theirs for a test....

[3886ad]

Remove everything from the coil. Feed it 12V where the WY wire was (+). Then see if it fires when you repeatedly strike the WS terminal (-) with a spare wire to ground. (Checks WS for break/short...)

==============

$ .02:
If the battery turns it over near normal speed , there should be plenty for the ignition...

Hi. Yes good spark so coil OK.
What would be your next test?
Ta

[3886ad]

Remove everything from the coil. Feed it 12V where the WY wire was (+). Then see if it fires when you repeatedly strike the WS terminal (-) with a spare wire to ground. (Checks WS for break/short...)

==============

$ .02:
If the battery turns it over near normal speed , there should be plenty for the ignition...

HI. Good spark. Coil OK
If I leave the power to 15.on
Disconnect ICU
Connect WS to coil.
Put ground wire in Icu end of WS and strike to ground. Should I get a spark?

[Bitsyncmaster]

HI. Good spark. Coil OK
If I leave the power to 15.on
Disconnect ICU
Connect WS to coil.
Put ground wire in Icu end of WS and strike to ground. Should I get a spark?

The ignition ECU is looking at an AC signal from the pickup coil. Not sure if a DC signal like ground or +12 would trigger it since it's only looking for a change in one direction. It may require a voltage going negative (below ground).

[Michael]

I am assuming you checked #1 fuse?

[Ron]

HI. Good spark. Coil OK
If I leave the power to 15.on
Disconnect ICU
Connect WS to coil.
Put ground wire in Icu end of WS and strike to ground. Should I get a spark?I'm not 100% on what you mean...

Did you check pin 16 for 12V while key on, as Dave suggested??

At his point, everything points to the the trigger circuit. So I'd confirm the ICU is getting ground (Black wire at ICU 31). Connect everything back up to the coil except the WS wire. Release the trigger wire (WS, 16) in the ICU's plug (or snip it, leaving plenty to splice with). Run a wire directly from the ICU side (WS, 16) to the coil's WS terminal (-); Plug the ICU up and turn it over while watching for spark.
If it does, the WS wire probably has a break somewhere or is being held to ground (short to WS, RPM relay, tach, etc). Otherwise, it about has to be the ICU.

[Ron]

I am assuming you checked #1 fuse?

From Post 1: "12 volts at green lead into ICU."

P.S. I'm watching you...:devil:

[Bitsyncmaster]

I'm not 100% on what you mean...

Did you check pin 16 for 12V while key on, as Dave suggested??

At his point, everything points to the the trigger circuit. So I'd confirm the ICU is getting ground (Black wire at ICU 31). Connect everything back up to the coil except the WS wire. Release the trigger wire (WS, 16) in the ICU's plug (or snip it, leaving plenty to splice with). Run a wire directly from the ICU side (WS, 16) to the coil's WS terminal (-); Plug the ICU up and turn it over while watching for spark.
If it does, the WS wire probably has a break somewhere or is being held to ground (short to WS, RPM relay, tach, etc). Otherwise, it about has to be the ICU.

The ECU white/slate wire gets pulled up to 12 volts by the ignition coil. The ECU just drives that pulled up voltage to ground (about 1 volt) so if you just measure voltage at the ECU on that wire and it's 12 volts then you know there is no break in that wire to the coil and you also know the ECU is bad as long as the ECU ground wire is at zero volts.

[Ron]

The ECU white/slate wire gets pulled up to 12 volts by the ignition coil. The ECU just drives that pulled up voltage to ground (about 1 volt) so if you just measure voltage at the ECU on that wire and it's 12 volts then you know there is no break in that wire to the coil and you also know the ECU is bad as long as the ECU ground wire is at zero volts.
Makes sense. I got you now...when you said, "... If your getting 12 volts at that connection then 99% sure your ECU is bad", I thought you meant- If the ECU is sending 12 volts there when the key is on...versus it grounding the pin, it was bad. (As in, common when it fails. ...fell through the crack between KOEO and KOER, where ground comes and goes...;-)

Anyway, do you think bypassing everything on the WS, but the coil, would be a waste of time, i.e., the RPM relay/idle speed ECU/tach could never fail, holding it high/low/?? -- Just curious!

======

...distributor not turning: its drive gear pin sheared??

[Bitsyncmaster]

Makes sense. I got you now...when you said, "... If your getting 12 volts at that connection then 99% sure your ECU is bad", I thought you meant- If the ECU is sending 12 volts there when the key is on...versus it grounding the pin, it was bad. (As in, common when it fails. ...fell through the crack between KOEO and KOER, where ground comes and goes...;-)

Anyway, do you think bypassing everything on the WS, but the coil, would be a waste of time, i.e., the RPM relay/idle speed ECU/tach could never fail, holding it high/low/?? -- Just curious!

======

...distributor not turning: its drive gear pin sheared??




The stock RPM relay and stock idle ECU use a capacitor coupled spark sense input and high resistance circuits. So I doubt any of those could ever short the ignition circuit. Not sure of the circuit in the tachometer. My units use DC coupled optical isolators for the spark circuit but a circuit resistor of 5 to 10 Kohms so even if the optical isolator shorted, that resistor limits the current to so little it would not affect the ignition circuit.

By the way the stock units need to see the inductive spike to activate their function. If you drive them with a 0 to 12 volt signal on the ignition input they do not work. You would need a much higher test signal of about 0 to 24 volts input. I have set my units threshold voltage to around 7 volts.

[DMC-81]

Hi Everyone.
Desperately need help.
car was running fine then suddenly cut out.
Back in my drive no spark at the plugs. Put plug into coil (bypassing distributor cap and rotor) lead. No spark.
12 Volts at input to resistor coil. 4 volts at coil.

12 volts at green lead into ICU.
O.5 volts A/c from distributor pick up
Changed coil, changed resistor pack changed starter relay changed main relay.

Put 12 volts from battery to input of coil still no spark.
Continuity on white/grey lead to coil from ICU. checked.

About to put bypass wire to replace white/grey.in case earthed on route.

All help gratefully received.
Thank you.

You have great troubleshooting advice so far. While you are checking things, check the presence, cleanliness, and tightness of these connectors.

Ballast area:
http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=61850&d=1574556573

3 wires on top of coil:
http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=44221&d=1467765137

I had a couple sudden no starts just like you described, and for me, it turned out to be lightly corroded or loose connections.

[3886ad]

You have great troubleshooting advice so far. While you are checking things, check the presence, cleanliness, and tightness of these connectors.

Ballast area:
http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=61850&d=1574556573

3 wires on top of coil:
http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=44221&d=1467765137

I had a couple sudden no starts just like you described, and for me, it turned out to be lightly corroded or loose connections.

HI.All done. By the way. What do the two red wires on the right white connector.
In this car they exit the loom further towards the engine and are cut.
Thanks

[3886ad]

Hi. Thanks everyone for your help.

After all the tests suggested.

12 volts in brand -new battery. OK
NO 1 fuse OK.
New Bosch coil tested OK
New resistor pack. OK
12 volts on green to 15 on ICU OK
Continuity on WS wire. (ICU to Coil). OK.
Resistance between 31D and 7 unplugged. 600 Ohms. OK
Voltage on 31D and 7 plugged in and cranking . 0.5 V Ac OK?
Voltage on WS at ICU 16 UNPLUGGED ignition on. 12V OK
Voltage at WS at ICU 16 PLUGGED IN Ignition on. 0V OK
Earth connection at 31 on ICU checked. OK

Still no spark at coil (to distributor )wire.

Please.

Is there a definitive way to test distributor sensor.?
Is there a definitive way to test Ignition Control Unit?.

Regards. Alan

[Ron]

By the way. What do the two red wires on the right white connector.
In this car they exit the loom further towards the engine and are cut.
They are for the frequency valve:
63279

Also, check this out: http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=2560&d=1310439341

[3886ad]

They are for the frequency valve:
63279

Also, check this out: http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=2560&d=1310439341

Will this cause no spark?

[3886ad]

They are for the frequency valve:
63279

Also, check this out: http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=2560&d=1310439341

Hi. Will this cause no spark?

[Ron]

Is there a definitive way to test Ignition Control Unit?.
Other than the test I suggested (here (http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?18138-Sons-new-Delorean-No-spark&p=256094&viewfull=1#post256094)), which assumes it is receiving a good signal from the distributor, all I can think of is to swap yours into a running D.
Or, maybe ship it to Dave, who can test it and hook you up with an improved unit if needed. :smile:

[Ron]

Hi. Will this cause no spark?I don't see how.
The frequency valve controls the fuel pressure...maybe check what's going on where they are supposed to terminate using the schematic. Odds are someone re-wired it.

[Bitsyncmaster]

Hi. Thanks everyone for your help.

After all the tests suggested.

12 volts in brand -new battery. OK
NO 1 fuse OK.
New Bosch coil tested OK
New resistor pack. OK
12 volts on green to 15 on ICU OK
Continuity on WS wire. (ICU to Coil). OK.
Resistance between 31D and 7 unplugged. 600 Ohms. OK
Voltage on 31D and 7 plugged in and cranking . 0.5 V Ac OK?
Voltage on WS at ICU 16 UNPLUGGED ignition on. 12V OK
Voltage at WS at ICU 16 PLUGGED IN Ignition on. 0V OK
Earth connection at 31 on ICU checked. OK

Still no spark at coil (to distributor )wire.

Please.

Is there a definitive way to test distributor sensor.?
Is there a definitive way to test Ignition Control Unit?.

Regards. Alan

Your testing looks good. Maybe that 0.5 volt AC is low but I have not tested when cranking the engine. I thought the AC voltage would be at least a few volts at cranking speed but it could depend on your voltmeter. That voltage can go to over 100 volts at high RPM.

So the engine was running, did it die when it was running or did it just not start one day?

One thing you should do is check and clean that two pin connector on the sensor wire. That connector is where it goes through the drivers side fire wall to connect the sensor to the ignition ECU.

[3886ad]

Your testing looks good. Maybe that 0.5 volt AC is low but I have not tested when cranking the engine. I thought the AC voltage would be at least a few volts at cranking speed but it could depend on your voltmeter. That voltage can go to over 100 volts at high RPM.

So the engine was running, did it die when it was running or did it just not start one day?

One thing you should do is check and clean that two pin connector on the sensor wire. That connector is where it goes through the drivers side fire wall to connect the sensor to the ignition ECU.

HI. The car was driving at the time. stopped as if the ignition was turned off.
I have unplugged the sensor 2 pin a few times. I will do a better job on it.

I tested the WS for continuity between ecu 15 and coil. I haven't tried getting a spark with it replaced.
I did test the wire by connecting a wire to wire end at ecu 15 and shorting it . This produced a spark.
So I think no break in WS.

I'll check again for tacho flicker. But it was nowhere near 500 rpm. Barely a movement . Not enough to be convincing that it is not just a vibration movement of cranking the car.
Thanks again

[David T]

The two most common causes of no start-no spark are bad/dirty connections at the ballast resistor and a bad impulse coil inside the distributor. Not likely the impulse coil because after the car cools off it usually will work again for about 20 minutes till it gets hot again. Still, you should check for continuity of the impulse coil and the connections on the ballast resistor. If that doesn't get you going it will be either a wiring problem (bad dirty connections/plugs/pins) or a bad ECU. VERY unlikely the ECU went bad, it is very rare but possible.

[3886ad]

The two most common causes of no start-no spark are bad/dirty connections at the ballast resistor and a bad impulse coil inside the distributor. Not likely the impulse coil because after the car cools off it usually will work again for about 20 minutes till it gets hot again. Still, you should check for continuity of the impulse coil and the connections on the ballast resistor. If that doesn't get you going it will be either a wiring problem (bad dirty connections/plugs/pins) or a bad ECU. VERY unlikely the ECU went bad, it is very rare but possible.

Hi. David .
Thanks for joining in.
I have cleaned and checked for continuity all connections many times.
New coil, New ballast resistor pack . New battery.
Continuity on distributor sender. 600 ohms.

You say probably not distributor sender. and not very unlikely to be ECU.
Please Whats. left?

Alan.

[3886ad]

Your testing looks good. Maybe that 0.5 volt AC is low but I have not tested when cranking the engine. I thought the AC voltage would be at least a few volts at cranking speed but it could depend on your voltmeter. That voltage can go to over 100 volts at high RPM.

So the engine was running, did it die when it was running or did it just not start one day?

One thing you should do is check and clean that two pin connector on the sensor wire. That connector is where it goes through the drivers side fire wall to connect the sensor to the ignition ECU.

Hi.
Connection all clean.
Thanks again.
Even though the battery is new, I wouldn't say its very lively cranking the engine.
Maybe a new starter motor to crank the engine faster to generate more than 0.5 Volts A/c at the dizzy sender?

You Also say it needs more than 12V at the input of the Coil. Doesn't the starter link bring it up to only battery strength?
Should I try 24 volts to the coil?.
Regards. Alan

[3886ad]

The two most common causes of no start-no spark are bad/dirty connections at the ballast resistor and a bad impulse coil inside the distributor. Not likely the impulse coil because after the car cools off it usually will work again for about 20 minutes till it gets hot again. Still, you should check for continuity of the impulse coil and the connections on the ballast resistor. If that doesn't get you going it will be either a wiring problem (bad dirty connections/plugs/pins) or a bad ECU. VERY unlikely the ECU went bad, it is very rare but possible.
Sorry.
and not very unlikely to be ECU

[Bitsyncmaster]

Hi.
Connection all clean.
Thanks again.
Even though the battery is new, I wouldn't say its very lively cranking the engine.
Maybe a new starter motor to crank the engine faster to generate more than 0.5 Volts A/c at the dizzy sender?

You Also say it needs more than 12V at the input of the Coil. Doesn't the starter link bring it up to only battery strength?
Should I try 24 volts to the coil?.
Regards. Alan

No. I'm not taking about the ignition coil. I saying the threshold of the RPM relay and idle ECU ignition inputs require greater than 12 volts. The ignition coil does get a little more power with the bypassing of one of the coil resistors.

So do not try 24 volts on any of the circuits, you will burn out ECUs doing that.

[steve]

This may not mean anything. This happened to 20069 went over a bump car cut out and refused to start. Tested with no results.
Turned out to be a wire in the ignition switch color may have been purple. Worked it's way off. Under plastic shield window side of cylinder.

Steve

[3886ad]

This may not mean anything. This happened to 20069 went over a bump car cut out and refused to start. Tested with no results.
Turned out to be a wire in the ignition switch color may have been purple. Worked it's way off. Under plastic shield window side of cylinder.

Steve

HI. Steve
Thanks for that. I've been out look under dash and have didcovered a black connector with 5 wires in it no tconnected to any thing.
one wir is redand whiyte and acouple of purples.
I presume it should fit somewhere, but cant see where.
Does this mean any thing to anyone.?

Thanks all.

[3886ad]

No. I'm not taking about the ignition coil. I saying the threshold of the RPM relay and idle ECU ignition inputs require greater than 12 volts. The ignition coil does get a little more power with the bypassing of one of the coil resistors.

So do not try 24 volts on any of the circuits, you will burn out ECUs doing that.

HI I wouldn't have done that without reassurance as I thought I must have interpreted that wrong.
Thanks for your help so far.
I have posted a reply to Steve that you might be able to help with.
regards.
Alan

[Ron]

Hey Alan. Hoping the hair pile isn't getting too high ;-)

You have confirmed a good coil and that it is being fed sufficient power. If the WS wire supplies ground ('charges') and then drops it, the coil must fire.
The ground is fed by the WS wire, which has a good connection to the ICU. The ICU has a good connection to ground, sufficient power from the Green wire and a sufficient AC signal from the Blue wire. [I get 0.36 VAC while cranking, measured at the disconnected distributor pig tail. Measures 0.589 Ω.] A good ICU will send its ground to the WS wire under these confirmed conditions. So, if you have bypassed the other circuits connected to the WS (to eliminate interference...), the coil should be getting a ground signal and be firing, if the ICU is good.

[3886ad]

Hey Alan. Hoping the hair pile isn't getting too high ;-)

You have confirmed a good coil and that it is being fed sufficient power. If the WS wire supplies ground ('charges') and then drops it, the coil must fire.
The ground is fed by the WS wire, which has a good connection to the ICU. The ICU has a good connection to ground, sufficient power from the Green wire and a sufficient AC signal from the Blue wire. [I get 0.36 VAC while cranking, measured at the disconnected distributor pig tail. Measures 0.589 Ω.] A good ICU will send its ground to the WS wire under these confirmed conditions. So, if you have bypassed the other circuits connected to the WS (to eliminate interference...), the coil should be getting a ground signal and be firing, if the ICU is good.

Hi. That is my understanding.
That is very succinctly put.
Therefore ICU needs a replacement to check.
Seems the only way.

Thank you very much.
There is another Delorean restorer fairly near who may be able to help. Would drive but under lock down.
I hope he might post.
I will keep you informed.
Thank you again

Alan.

[Bitsyncmaster]

Hey Alan. Hoping the hair pile isn't getting too high ;-)

You have confirmed a good coil and that it is being fed sufficient power. If the WS wire supplies ground ('charges') and then drops it, the coil must fire.
The ground is fed by the WS wire, which has a good connection to the ICU. The ICU has a good connection to ground, sufficient power from the Green wire and a sufficient AC signal from the Blue wire. [I get 0.36 VAC while cranking, measured at the disconnected distributor pig tail. Measures 0.589 Ω.] A good ICU will send its ground to the WS wire under these confirmed conditions. So, if you have bypassed the other circuits connected to the WS (to eliminate interference...), the coil should be getting a ground signal and be firing, if the ICU is good.

I'm also thinking the ignition ECU is the problem. Normally the output transistor blows out but I'm not sure if the typical failure is shorted to ground or and open circuit. The stock ECU will ground that white/slate wire when powered and no engine running. So the OP should be seeing that white/slate wire on the coil has about 1 volt and the + side of the coil has around 5 or 6 volts because the resistors and wiring are dropping the voltage. You would probably see an AC voltage on that white/slate coil wire when cranking but then you would have spark.

So I would say check the two voltages on the coil terminals when the key is on and let us know the voltages.

[3886ad]

I'm also thinking the ignition ECU is the problem. Normally the output transistor blows out but I'm not sure if the typical failure is shorted to ground or and open circuit. The stock ECU will ground that white/slate wire when powered and no engine running. So the OP should be seeing that white/slate wire on the coil has about 1 volt and the + side of the coil has around 5 or 6 volts because the resistors and wiring are dropping the voltage. You would probably see an AC voltage on that white/slate coil wire when cranking but then you would have spark.

So I would say check the two voltages on the coil terminals when the key is on and let us know the voltages.

Hi. Thanks.
I will do. tomorrow.
I am very grateful for your help.
Alan

[3886ad]

I'm also thinking the ignition ECU is the problem. Normally the output transistor blows out but I'm not sure if the typical failure is shorted to ground or and open circuit. The stock ECU will ground that white/slate wire when powered and no engine running. So the OP should be seeing that white/slate wire on the coil has about 1 volt and the + side of the coil has around 5 or 6 volts because the resistors and wiring are dropping the voltage. You would probably see an AC voltage on that white/slate coil wire when cranking but then you would have spark.

So I would say check the two voltages on the coil terminals when the key is on and let us know the voltages.

Hi. Back again.
All connected. ignition on.

WS shows 0.7 volts.

+ shows 3.2 volts.

No A/C on either.
Regards. Alan

[gluaisrothaii]

Is it possible that the distributor rotor has slipped out of position? Happened to me once...I know it's keyed, but the cap will still go on even if the rotor is not fully down and engaged. The engine will not run if this happens, for obvious reasons....

If there's a spark on the coil lead, but not at the plug wires, suspect a slipped rotor.

Best,
Ken

[David T]

There is a troubleshooting flow chart in the DMC Technical Information Manual, C1 pages 126 & 127. If you can get your hands on it, it is an excellent guide to figure out what's not working.

[gluaisrothaii]

Is it possible that the distributor rotor has slipped out of position? Happened to me once...I know it's keyed, but the cap will still go on even if the rotor is not fully down and engaged. The engine will not run if this happens, for obvious reasons....

If there's a spark on the coil lead, but not at the plug wires, suspect a slipped rotor.

Best,
Ken

Never mind, just re-read the OP where he says no spark at coil....

[Bitsyncmaster]

Hi. Back again.
All connected. ignition on.

WS shows 0.7 volts.

+ shows 3.2 volts.

No A/C on either.
Regards. Alan

Your + voltage seems low but I think it will still fire at that voltage since one of the resistors is bypassed when cranking. If you like you can bypass both resistors and see if it will start. If it still fails my bet is your ECU is bad.

[3886ad]

There is a troubleshooting flow chart in the DMC Technical Information Manual, C1 pages 126 & 127. If you can get your hands on it, it is an excellent guide to figure out what's not working.

Hi.
I've been using that from the start.
As you see from my last entry the sw terminal shows o.7 volts.
Test 2 says that under 6 volts means short in primary winding.
Checked resistance and its 1.2 ohms..
Where would you suggest I go from there.?
Alan

[3886ad]

Your + voltage seems low but I think it will still fire at that voltage since one of the resistors is bypassed when cranking. If you like you can bypass both resistors and see if it will start. If it still fails my bet is your ECU is bad.

HI.
Tried with 12 volts direct from battery right at the start of problem and no spark.
ECU it is then.
Thanks for yoyr help. Will post result on replacement here later.
Thank for your help. uch appreciated.
Regards. Alan

[3886ad]

There is a troubleshooting flow chart in the DMC Technical Information Manual, C1 pages 126 & 127. If you can get your hands on it, it is an excellent guide to figure out what's not working.

Sorry I meant 3.2 Volts at 15
Alan

[3886ad]

Your + voltage seems low but I think it will still fire at that voltage since one of the resistors is bypassed when cranking. If you like you can bypass both resistors and see if it will start. If it still fails my bet is your ECU is bad.

Hi. Dave. Just to let you know that with your help I decided it had to be the ECU.

Obviously I hoped it wouldn't be that as they are so expensive.
I went on to E.Bay and found four for sale
Three were over £250 british and one £35 pounds.
Having heard so many people telling me the ECUs never go wrong, I thought that this cheap ECU must be OK.

Turns out it was OK. and I now have spark and the car runs.
Many thanks for your help and encouragement.
Thanks to all others as well. Regards. Alan

[David T]

Well, they can go bad, you are the case that proves it! Unusual and rare but possible. The good news is now it is working and you didn't have to "break the bank" to get it going. Good gamble. Your old one may be repairable. Don't throw it away.