Body/Frame Separation

[Nicholas R]

Lets talk about this.

First off, before the body can be lifted from the frame what needs to be disconnected?
Here's what I can think of off the top of my head:

Disconnect
-Front radiator shroud
-Evaporator Lines
-Heater Core lines
-Steering linkage
-Radiator Fan lines
-Horn lines
-console/shifter area
-Mode switch vacuum lines
-Engine wiring
-Carbon Canister lines
-O2 sensor
-Alternator Power
-Starter Power
-Automatic Transmission computer (if applicable)

Bolts Removed
-2 bolts in the trunk bolting to shock towers
-2 bolts inside near center console bolting sideways into the frame
-2 bolts near the transmission/engine connection bolting the frame the body to the frame

I'm sure there's more I'm missing so what is it?

Also, once everything is removed/disconnected, whats the best way to remove the body; a bunch of people all around the car? How heavy is the body (of a complete car)? How many people would it typically take to lift it off? Where are the best places to lift from? Can you utilize an engine hoist? Jacks? etc.

Thanks, for the help, This may be in my future.

[TTait]

Clutch line
Brake lines
Fuel filler hose
fuel pump lines and wiring
Fuel level sender wiring
Battery ground cable
Air duct to filter box

[DeloreanJoshQ]

Lets talk about this.

First off, before the body can be lifted from the frame what needs to be disconnected?
Here's what I can think of off the top of my head:

Disconnect
-Front radiator shroud
-Evaporator Lines
-Heater Core lines
-Steering linkage
-Radiator Fan lines
-Horn lines
-console/shifter area
-Mode switch vacuum lines
-Engine wiring
-Carbon Canister lines
-O2 sensor
-Alternator Power
-Starter Power
-Automatic Transmission computer (if applicable)

Bolts Removed
-2 bolts in the trunk bolting to shock towers
-2 bolts inside near center console bolting sideways into the frame
-2 bolts near the transmission/engine connection bolting the frame the body to the frame

I'm sure there's more I'm missing so what is it?

Also, once everything is removed/disconnected, whats the best way to remove the body; a bunch of people all around the car? How heavy is the body (of a complete car)? How many people would it typically take to lift it off? Where are the best places to lift from? Can you utilize an engine hoist? Jacks? etc.

Thanks, for the help, This may be in my future.

Did you already disconnect the negative battery cable from the trailing arm?
The front lighting wiring/ground junction area, disconnected?

I believe they're are 10 bolts that hold the body to the frame.

-Don't forget the frame bolts that attach to the body at the back of the frame on each side; once the bumper is off you will see them inside the round cut-outs
-I assume you are talking about removing the frame brace that bolts between the engine and transmission
-The seatbelt bolts go through the body into the frame, don't forget these in addition to the other 2 bolts in the side of the center console.

I believe if you have everything disconnected correctly you want to gently and slowly lift the body off of the frame via the 4 jack points (behind the front tires/in front of the rear tires). Once you get it so high, you can put support beams under it and roll the chassis out of the way....

[Rich W]

Add a few more notes, front to back, for the body/frame removal list:

- 12 body/frame bolts (including the 2 seat belt bolts)
--- 2 at front shock towers, 4 along the interior center tunnel and 2 seat belt bolts,
--- 2 above the rear shock towers (under shock tower brace), 2 in rear pontoons
*** Make sure to pre-treat all frame bolts, in advance, with PB Blaster or similar

- unbolt (or break off) studs on bottom of radiator sceen grille, to remove shroud
- remove frame grounds from the wiring harness to the frame crumple tube area
- disconnect A/C lines and wiring at passenger front wheel well area
- remove access cover under fuel filler, to gain access to disconnect steering knuckle
- remove access cover over brake master, to gain access to disconnect brake lines
- remove access cover to fuel pump boot area, to diconnect fuel lines and wiring
- disconnect lower speedometer cable at angle drive or at lambda counter under dash

- disconnect Emergency Brake lines (in the interior, under the E-Brake handle)
- remove seats for access to frame bolts along center tunnel and seat belt bolts
- pull back (down) carpet along center tunnel, to gain access to frame bolts

- unbolt (or break off) studs along bottom of rear fascia, to disconnect from support
- remove rear tail lights, to access additional rear closing plate bolts and/or brackets
- disconnect engine cover release cable (if removing rear fascia for refinshing, etc.)
- disconnect rear fascia wiring assembly...while removing rear fascia assembly
- remove rear fascia assembly (with rear closing plate) at the closing plate brackets
- disconnect frame grounds to the rear quarter stainless panels (if still in place)
- remove main grounding wires (brown wires) from engine compartment wiring bracket
- remove any vacuum lines (for mode switch, older aftermarket cruise control, etc.)
* remove throttle cable at throttle spool (on engine) near the rear fascia

These items above are in addition to most of the other items already mentioned.

That's all I can recall for now, off the top of my head.

As for body removal questions, I would recommend using a lift whenever possible.
If using jacks, stands and 4x4's, make sure to use 4 floor jacks and lift all points slowly.

The underbody with all stainless panels, doors, front fascia, etc. attached will weigh
at least an estimated 1200 pounds (less without seats, etc.) and it will be "nose heavy".

Having at least two people will make things go much quicker, easier and safer.

Later,
Rich W.

[DMCMW Dave]

- unbolt (or break off) studs along bottom of rear fascia, to disconnect from support
,
Rich W.

Unbolt the plate that the fascia attaches to from the frame rather than breaking all the lower facia studs. Much easier to repair and they are less likely to break.

[David T]

The biggest caveat is to work slowly and lift VERY carefully so if it stops because you missed or forgot something (like a wire) you don't rip and break things apart. Take notes and pictures because when you reassemble you do not want to forget anything, it may require lifting the body again to get to it!!!!!!!! There are many jobs made easier when the body is separated and some can only be done with the body separated. One is the fuel lines. There is a grounding wire from the fuel tank that connects to the filler that must be removed. It is under the access cover under the gas fill. Doing a huge job like this generally becomes MUCH bigger than you plan for. Since so many things are so much easier to do the temptation is to do them. All of that takes more time and parts and parts cost money. One of the small steps that take you into doing a full-blown resto. BTW you will need a LOT of room to do it. Not only to work on the car but for all of the parts that will be coming off of it.
David Teitelbaum

[Nicholas R]

Thanks for the help. How high does the body typically need raised before the frame can come out from under it? Is it higher than the average floor jack? I suppose its the distance from the bottom of the rear fascia to the top of the engine.

As far as supporting it later, is it best to build a body dolly? Keep it on jack stands? Cinder blocks? etc?

[tgraham]

How high does the body typically need raised before the frame can come out from under it? Is it higher than the average floor jack? I suppose its the distance from the bottom of the rear fascia to the top of the engine.

Yes, you'll have to clear the top of the motor - that's the highest point of a body-less DeLorean.

Travis

[David T]

You can roll the body around on two wooden mover's dollies. You will have to make a small frame using the two dollies. A floor jack won't get you high enough all by itself. Most try to use the garage and hang it from the ceiling. A lift is the way to go if at all possible. Use the jacking points and up it goes. Roll the frame out of the way and set the body onto the dollies.
David Teitelbaum

[Nicholas R]

I do have 2 engine hoists available; Where/what would be the best place to adapt this? I suppose my biggest concern with this would be bending/warping/crimping the stainless by wrapping straps around the car.

[nullset]

I did it with lots of solid concrete blocks and 2 floorjacks.

If you remove the shifter knob, you don't have to lift as high.

It's better to have helpers, so that if it starts to fall, someone can catch it.

Sean did it by himself, with no tools. He just picked the body straight up and carried it off.

Or maybe he used one floorjacks. He did do it by himself, though…. :)

--buddy