Engine won't start

[bedhedned]

My engine turns over but won't start. Recently I changed the spark plugs and wires, I had to remove the fuel distributer to get to the distributer cap. When I reconnected everything I made sure I reconnected all the fuel lines correctly and everything else then started the car, which started though it sputtered a bit. I then drove it home (I work on my car at my place of work), and stopped to get pizza. When I attempted to leave the car would not start. The engine turned over but wouldn't start. I've heard about the fuel accumulator giving people issues with hot starting, however I tried to start it repeatedly over a period of a couple hours. I eventually had to get it towed the rest of the way home. Tried to start it again this morning, still wouldn't start; engine turns over but won't start. Any idea what would cause to start once then refuse to start again?

[WelmoedJ]

As always:
1. Check there is fuel coming from an injector
2. Check if you have a spark at a spark plug.

If you have fuel and no spark, check:
- Power at the resistor pack and coil
- Distributor cap firmly affixed to the distributor (you have been in there)
- Fuses of main relay

If no power, check the connections at the resistor pack and to/from the relay next to the resistor pack (there's an inline connector that sometimes disconnects).
Then check the power to the coil (there should be power at the coil if you have checked the connections at the resistor pack).

If you have no fuel but you have spark, check:
- Power to the RPM relay, to the pump and check the inertia switch (disconnects the pump in case of a roll-over accident, switch ground is prone to go bad).
- If the pump works, check if it sucks in fuel and then check the fuel line to the accumulator and distributor for blockage (can be inside the tank too, clogged screen or split pickup hose).

Start with the easy things and work your way down the list.

[bedhedned]

Thanks, I appreciate it, we'll see how it goes.

[LEVY]

Keyword: "Wires"

Since your car started rought, and you just replaced wires,I'm thinking you may have a wire order issue, make sure all your wires are connected correctly.

Levy


My engine turns over but won't start. Recently I changed the spark plugs and wires, I had to remove the fuel distributer to get to the distributer cap. When I reconnected everything I made sure I reconnected all the fuel lines correctly and everything else then started the car, which started though it sputtered a bit. I then drove it home (I work on my car at my place of work), and stopped to get pizza. When I attempted to leave the car would not start. The engine turned over but wouldn't start. I've heard about the fuel accumulator giving people issues with hot starting, however I tried to start it repeatedly over a period of a couple hours. I eventually had to get it towed the rest of the way home. Tried to start it again this morning, still wouldn't start; engine turns over but won't start. Any idea what would cause to start once then refuse to start again?

[Spittybug]

Taking bets that one or more of the plugs are wired in wrong order to the dizzy......

[TTait]

Also check your vacuum lines...

[Bitsyncmaster]

Taking bets that one or more of the plugs are wired in wrong order to the dizzy......

But he drove it. My bet is a vacuum line.

[LEVY]

+ 1

Taking bets that one or more of the plugs are wired in wrong order to the dizzy......


If he drove it, then nothing, what can be wrong on the vacuum side?

I'm good on the electric side but no as good on the vacuum side, what can cause the engine tu run, then not even to start?

Would like to learn a little on that matter.

Levy


But he drove it. My bet is a vacuum line.

[TTait]

The car may run (poorly) with a vacuum leak, but not restart.

I'd guess a line or connection was loose, and upon shuddering while running and driving, it is now worse or completely disconnected.

Several of the lines were either disconnected or manipulated while doing recent work, they are just as suspect as anything else.

He did not mention a glowing cat or a strong smell of gasoline in the exhaust, so it strikes me as less likely two of the wires are swapped, maybe one loose, but two swapped would be pretty severe.

[stevedmc]

If the car ran fine at first then the wires are probably connected in the correct order. One of the wires may have come loose from the distributor cap though. I would check all of the spark plug wires to make sure they are snug.

Edit: I just read his post again and realized he said it sputtered. Definitely check to make sure the wires are in the correct order. Also, make sure they are gapped correctly. I believe stock gap is somewhere around .026

If you have a stock ignition and the plugs are gapped too high, the plugs won't be able to reliably ignite fuel.

[Bitsyncmaster]

It could also be something happened to fail not related to the work you just did. So if you don't find a spark or vacuum leak, I would first check that PPR o-ring.

Time how long you hold rest pressure. Just use the "tap air plate" method to time your rest pressure time.

[Dangermouse]

Distributor cap wasn't correctly snugged down and now worked loose?

[Ron]

??? My post disappeared ???

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+ 1

If he drove it, then nothing, what can be wrong on the vacuum side?

I'm good on the electric side but no as good on the vacuum side, what can cause the engine tu run, then not even to start?

Would like to learn a little on that matter.

Levy
I'm with you on this...
I don't like coincidences. Seems we need clarification on the sputtering. It reads to me like it sputtered when it started and ran ok afterwords??? (How it ran before. If it was shut of between first start and the pizza joint....might tell something.)
If one wire is wrong, then there is at least two wrong, which means at least 1/3 power gone....seems it would be worse than a sputter.
I'm wondering if removing the CO may have caused it to sputter until extra fuel cleared out, and, now it needs readjusting. Maybe rich, flooding/fowling the plugs, or way lean. I guess it depends on how/where it was taken off...

I would check, in order: Plate pressure, spark at coil, spark at plug, fuel at injector, new huge vacuum leak...

[TTait]

new huge vacuum leak...

Mine won't start if the small hose to the underside of the throttle body comes loose. Even a small leak can hose you.

[Ron]

I agree, especially if it is cold! I was just offering a mythodlogy...working from easiest to do while revealing the most...

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I'm not sure how much you might get the CO adjustment off by simply removing the FD and putting it right back on in general...But I put another one on mine just to see if it weeped and swapped it right back (touching nothing else) and it ran but smoked a lot.

No mention of smelling fuel now also raises a red flag...