Multiple Issues

[LimitedRunDouglas]

So my biggest problem with my car was the AC was cutting in and out. I managed to get the switch swapped out yesterday and it seemed like it was working fine. But another issue I've had here and there was my car's RPM when idle was 3000. It would start to stall when I would shift and chug. Today I tried adjusting the screws for the RPM and got it down to 1600 but once I got in and tried to reverse it stalled out. Then I went back to adjust the screw and suddenly my air died, then the car stalled again. The car now won't start and I had to push it into the garage.

Does anyone have any advice?

[David T]

I think you're right, you have multiple issues.
1) No hot restart
2) High idle
3) A/C not working right
4) stalling
For the no hot restart try the plug swap to confirm and then you probably need a new accumulator
For the high idle, you may have to adjust the throttle screws, air screws, make sure the idle motor system is working.
For the stalling, vacuum leaks, dirty fuel injectors, mixture screw, make sure the Lambda system is working
Once you get these problems cleared up you may find the A/C is OK.

[LimitedRunDouglas]

I think you're right, you have multiple issues.
1) No hot restart
2) High idle
3) A/C not working right
4) stalling
For the no hot restart try the plug swap to confirm and then you probably need a new accumulator
For the high idle, you may have to adjust the throttle screws, air screws, make sure the idle motor system is working.
For the stalling, vacuum leaks, dirty fuel injectors, mixture screw, make sure the Lambda system is working
Once you get these problems cleared up you may find the A/C is OK.

What is the plug swap?

Thanks for the help!

[LimitedRunDouglas]

Figured out the plug swap. It started for a sec but then shut off and won't start again.

[David T]

Check and see if you have spark.

[Jonathan]

An idle stuck at a real specific high value like 2,500 or 3,000 might be telling you the electrical connector came off the thermister switch. It's a pain in the butt to get to and check because it's in the valley and you can't reach it without taking the top of the engine off. Check that last, but keep it in mind as you're doing these other checks.

https://store.delorean.com/p-6749-thermister-idle-speed.aspx

EDIT: there is a way to fake it out and test to see if that connector really has come off. It's basically putting a jumper on the pins where it normally connects to in the electrical area behind the driver's seat. That won't continue to tell you what temperature the engine is at, but it will at least tell the electronics in your car that there is something connected and not default to this excessively high value.

[LimitedRunDouglas]

I'm starting to think there is no spark. It seems like it really wants to start but just won't all the way. How do you check for that?

[Rich]

I'm starting to think there is no spark. It seems like it really wants to start but just won't all the way. How do you check for that?

The initial ignition test for Does Not Start condition is to see if spark is getting to the distributor from the ignition coil.

Be sure battery is charged. Twist/remove the primary ignition wire from the center terminal of the distributor cap. Removing the air filter housing will help you access top of distributor. Ignition wire should pull straight out.

Using an insulated tool or thick gloves hold the bare end of that primary ignition wire about 12mm or more from a good ground such as the intake manifold or a valve cover. Have an assistant crank the engine for 5 sec or so. You should see a series of blue sparks jump across a gap of at least 12mm between the wire and the ground in order to pass this test.

Replace the primary ignition wire onto the dist. cap.

Source: DMC Technical Info Manual, Table C1 - Ignition System Diagnostic Chart, Test #1 (p. 126)