Thermal vacuum control valve, accessing

[DrWin]

Hi again, :)

So another noob question: I'm pretty damn sure my vacuum lines are set up wrong. I got the replacement kit from deloreango.com, black silicone, and I've installed numbers 1-7, but I'm stuck one number 8-11. Basically I need access to the thermal control valve to get on with the rest of the show, but the question is: How?

Or rather how much (disassembly) before I can reach down and right the vacuum wrongs?

Any and all help would be appreciated. :)

[Jonathan]

You need access to the “valley” for those last three. A lot of work to do so. Top of the engine / intake has to come off.

[DrWin]

You need access to the “valley” for those last three. A lot of work to do so. Top of the engine / intake has to come off.

Thanks for the reply!

Oh, that sound like a lot of work. But the air intake manifold has to come off, and I suppose the k-jet with it, then? Is there anything else I need to remove and/or anything else I need to do while in the valley of darkness? (Except being my brother's keeper and the finder of lost children...)

[DMC5180]

Thanks for the reply!

Oh, that sound like a lot of work. But the air intake manifold has to come off, and I suppose the k-jet with it, then? Is there anything else I need to remove and/or anything else I need to do while in the valley of darkness? (Except being my brother's keeper and the finder of lost children...)

Honestly, I would save those hoses for another reason to go into the valley. Like a water pump change. Unless you really want to go there of course. [emoji6]

[Rich]

Yes, it's a lot of work the first time you try it. After that it takes 50% less time. Yes, the K-Jet is removed together with manifold. My first removal took me 2hrs. I've seen it done in <1hr. Easier, of course with correct tools and parts. Nothing exotic is required. See 2 bold links here below.

Removing the intake manifold is known as going into the Valley of Death (VOD). Lots of threads about that elsewhere.

Use the pdf in this thread (http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?429) as a how-to guide. The last photo on p.15 shows your target valve (with special red tubing, not original black).

While in there consider:
- replacing all 6 manifold O-rings (be sure to put silicone lube on for best sealing)
- replacing the 4 coolant hoses that can be accessed only with the manifold off. If you do this be sure to perform a coolant pressure test after hose replacement and BEFORE replacing the manifold.
- not replacing any coolant Y-pipe bolts or gaskets unless you find a leak. The bolts are difficult to remove without breaking them on such an old engine.
- general cleaning of the top of the engine block (in the Valley)
- replacing all of the vacuum hoses in that area
- bleeding the clutch slave cylinder - it is so much easier to access the cylinder bleed port with the manifold off. You need to bleed the clutch every 2-3 yrs.
- Optional to check-replace the heater control valve just to the right of the clutch slave. Again, access is very good.

When putting it back together you will need to learn how to correctly insert and seal the Pipe of Agony (http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?6383). It's fun.

Cover the rear fascia with a thick towel before starting. You will be leaning against it much of the time.

Others will join in with more ideas for fun in the VOD.


Oh, that sound like a lot of work. But the air intake manifold has to come off, and I suppose the k-jet with it, then? Is there anything else I need to remove and/or anything else I need to do while in the valley of darkness? (Except being my brother's keeper and the finder of lost children...)

[David T]

Before you go taking things apart refer to Service Bulletin ST-32-12/81. It explains how to check the thermal valve without disassembling the motor.

[DrWin]

Yes, it's a lot of work the first time you try it. After that it takes 50% less time. Yes, the K-Jet is removed together with manifold. My first removal took me 2hrs. I've seen it done in <1hr. Easier, of course with correct tools and parts. Nothing exotic is required. See 2 bold links here below.

Removing the intake manifold is known as going into the Valley of Death (VOD). Lots of threads about that elsewhere.

Use the pdf in this thread (http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?429) as a how-to guide. The last photo on p.15 shows your target valve (with special red tubing, not original black).

While in there consider:
- replacing all 6 manifold O-rings (be sure to put silicone lube on for best sealing)
- replacing the 4 coolant hoses that can be accessed only with the manifold off. If you do this be sure to perform a coolant pressure test after hose replacement and BEFORE replacing the manifold.
- not replacing any coolant Y-pipe bolts or gaskets unless you find a leak. The bolts are difficult to remove without breaking them on such an old engine.
- general cleaning of the top of the engine block (in the Valley)
- replacing all of the vacuum hoses in that area
- bleeding the clutch slave cylinder - it is so much easier to access the cylinder bleed port with the manifold off. You need to bleed the clutch every 2-3 yrs.
- Optional to check-replace the heater control valve just to the right of the clutch slave. Again, access is very good.

When putting it back together you will need to learn how to correctly insert and seal the Pipe of Agony (http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?6383). It's fun.

Cover the rear fascia with a thick towel before starting. You will be leaning against it much of the time.

Others will join in with more ideas for fun in the VOD.

Thanks, that's pretty damn helpful! :) This is the reason I'm asking here, I get a lot more information than I _knew_ that I needed. What you don't know can harm you, and your delorean.
I'll get straight to reading up on the VOD procedures. Thanks again.

[DrWin]

Before you go taking things apart refer to Service Bulletin ST-32-12/81. It explains how to check the thermal valve without disassembling the motor.

Thanks, man. That's propably a great idea, though I'm 99% sure. I think I can actually see they are connected wrong on the back of the engine.

[DrWin]

I just read up on the VOD guide. I think I'd better wait until winter season, when I won't be driving the car for 2-4 months depending on the weather, and be thorough when I go into the VOD. Seems to me that there will be a lot of time/resources saved, in the long run, by doing as much as possible while down there.

[MrChocky]

I just read up on the VOD guide. I think I'd better wait until winter season, when I won't be driving the car for 2-4 months depending on the weather, and be thorough when I go into the VOD. Seems to me that there will be a lot of time/resources saved, in the long run, by doing as much as possible while down there.Right. They are digging up my road soon so my car will be out of action for a couple of weeks. I need to replace my water return pipe. My fear is that I'll need to order more parts half way through.

Fortunately I replaced the distributor cap etc a few weeks ago so I've at least done half of this.

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk

[DMC5180]

I just read up on the VOD guide. I think I'd better wait until winter season, when I won't be driving the car for 2-4 months depending on the weather, and be thorough when I go into the VOD. Seems to me that there will be a lot of time/resources saved, in the long run, by doing as much as possible while down there.

Nothing wrong with going into the VOD. Just be prepared to clean things up and consider replacing the Water pump and hoses as a preventative measure. Cheap insurance that should keep you from an untimely VOD visit.

[lazabby]

Be sure to do a smoke test to check the vacuum hoes for any leaks.

[David T]

If it has been a very long time (or never) that anyone has been "in there", it is necessary to do it. The "while you are there things" include a through cleaning, replacing all of the hoses, water pump, "O" rings, seals and gaskets. Typically the thermal valve doesn't need to be replaced unless it is broken, they don't fail much. The vendors have what they call the master water pump kit that includes all of the parts you will need including the bearings for the idlers, belts, etc. Big job. Best done in the wintertime when you park the car so you can take your time.

[MrChocky]

Be sure to do a smoke test to check the vacuum hoes for any leaks.I've misplaced my pimp shoes.

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk