Vented Front Brakes + Sway Bar Bushings

[kdumont]

So, I sadly wore through my front right brake pad recently. Unfortunately, I was an hour away from home when I realized it. By the time I got back I had gouged the rotor pretty badly (Fortunately, I was driving very cautiously, so was still able to avoid the deer who decided to jump in front of me on the drive back - calling it a win).

Anyways, it's on me for not checking the status of the brake pad, but also came as a bit of a surprise since I'm at most ~15k miles or less since they were last done. The rotors are stock.

I checked the front right pad/rotor which is toast, but I haven't checked the left one yet. Will update once I've checked it out.

The main thing I'm trying to decide is whether I should:
1) Buy replacement rotors + pads, break down and clean the stock front calipers
2) Go to vented rotors with a spacer kit on the stock front calipers after rebuild (Delorean Go) - I don't really like this option
3) Go to vended rotors with the new caliper set (Delorean Go)

For reference, this is VIN 1659, 3 spd automatic, twin island turbo (done in mid 80s), but otherwise is largely stock. It's been in my family since purchased used in the mid 80s. I will probably be selling in the next couple years.

Total miles on the odometer: 17K
Brakes "serviced" @ 15K - in this case I'm trying to figure out what the service was by my mechanic. The brake master was replaced, but I don't know when the pads were done. Rotors are stock. I'll update once I get a chance to talk to him.

For one, I'm trying to decided between vented rotors and not. I like the idea of vented rotors, especially since I think they pair well with the stage 2 turbo system. Still, not sure if other folks would prefer to see it stock.

Anything else I should consider while I'm at it?

Also, while I'm building up my fall project list, I've seen recommendations for upgrading the sway bar bushings from stock with something like https://www.delorean-parts.com/product/front-sway-bar-combo-kit/

[David T]

Unless you are really driving hard, the stock unvenitlated rotors are OK. If you are planning on selling the car you won't get your investment in the brakes back. Have a shop measure the rotor, maybe it can be saved by resurfacing. If not, replace it. As for the calipers, you should not have to do anything to them except replace the pads unless they are leaking. Maybe flush the brakes with fresh fluid too.

[kdumont]

Just checked out the left brake and pads look almost new. There is gunk around the bleeder valve.
64805

[David T]

The right side is worn out and the left side is like new!!!!?????? Make sure the left side is not stuck. Was the car "pulling" to the right? You must change the pads in sets so you have to replace the pads on the left side anyway, even if they are not worn. That way both sides have exactly the same pads.

[kdumont]

The right side is worn out and the left side is like new!!!!?????? Make sure the left side is not stuck. Was the car "pulling" to the right? You must change the pads in sets so you have to replace the pads on the left side anyway, even if they are not worn. That way both sides have exactly the same pads.

Yeah, as you can see in the photo above there's still a lot of life left in there, whereas the right pads are down to the back-plate. That was my concern when I realized those pads wore down so quickly and hence figured I might have to tear down or replace the calipers. For sure I will replace both sets of pads.

I figure it's either the right brake has been stuck "engaged" or the left brake has been stuck "disengaged". I did press the brake pedal and feel the left brake clamp, so I know it's doing something.

I've been wondering the same thing about the car pulling right when I brake and I think it did a bit, but the stopping power was always okay so I never thought that much of it.

I checked with the mechanic and he confirmed he did not replace the pads, but inspected them, took them out and greased everything 2K miles ago. He did replace the brake master and front brake lines. He didn't do a full caliper teardown.

[ssdelorean]

Unless you are really driving hard, the stock unvenitlated rotors are OK. If you are planning on selling the car you won't get your investment in the brakes back. Have a shop measure the rotor, maybe it can be saved by resurfacing. If not, replace it. As for the calipers, you should not have to do anything to them except replace the pads unless they are leaking. Maybe flush the brakes with fresh fluid too.

I agree with the Guru here. Stock rotors are just fine for non-racecar drivers (or if you don't need cool looking vented rotors).

I have over 233,000 miles (need to update my sig) on my car and have the original rotors. I had them turned just once. Pads replaced twice.

As mentioned by Dave and your other post, it sounds like something is sticking. Get that sorted out and everything should be just fine.

[kdumont]

As mentioned by Dave and your other post, it sounds like something is sticking. Get that sorted out and everything should be just fine.

As you suspected, one of the caliper pistons on the right side was totally stuck. I took the caliper off and broke it down - it was quite a mess.

Actually to pry the jammed piston out I had to soak the back side of the of piston in hot water and leave an ice-cube in the piston. The difference in temperature was enough I could get the stuck piston out. Still, this was the result:

64819

The pistons have to be replaced. I'm also not so confident that the rotor can be saved, as the grooves are pretty deep. All that being said, I'm looking at replacing all 4x caliper pistons ($100) + fittings (2x rebuild kit $25), cleaning and restoring the calipers (which also should be plated or painted), turning the rotors ($50 if they can be saved, $200 if not). It all ends up pretty close to the cost of a new, upgraded caliper system ($475 at Delorean Go with the rotors). I guess it depends on whether I can save the rotors, but all being said I'm leaning towards upgrading the brakes anyways since the price delta looks like $0 - $200.

I'm getting a set of digital calipers to measure the rotors tomorrow.

I've read elsewhere that the wheel bearings will need to be replaced since they are stock. Can anyone confirm that?

Is there anything else I should be replacing while I'm in here? The brake hoses and master cylinder have already been replaced.

[Bitsyncmaster]

I've read elsewhere that the wheel bearings will need to be replaced since they are stock. Can anyone confirm that?.

If you pull the front hubs odds are the bearing seal beaks. The problem is the bearing freezes to the spindle.

[Josh]

now that they are easily available, it is stupid to run solid front rotors.
It is ridiculous that the front rotors were solid to start off with.

[Grover]

For your last question on anything else for replacement, for the front brake pads with the vented rotors up front I used EBC Green Stuff pads, which is what was recommended from Martin at DMC UK when he came out with one of the first front vented rotor kits.



As you suspected, one of the caliper pistons on the right side was totally stuck. I took the caliper off and broke it down - it was quite a mess.

Actually to pry the jammed piston out I had to soak the back side of the of piston in hot water and leave an ice-cube in the piston. The difference in temperature was enough I could get the stuck piston out. Still, this was the result:

64819

The pistons have to be replaced. I'm also not so confident that the rotor can be saved, as the grooves are pretty deep. All that being said, I'm looking at replacing all 4x caliper pistons ($100) + fittings (2x rebuild kit $25), cleaning and restoring the calipers (which also should be plated or painted), turning the rotors ($50 if they can be saved, $200 if not). It all ends up pretty close to the cost of a new, upgraded caliper system ($475 at Delorean Go with the rotors). I guess it depends on whether I can save the rotors, but all being said I'm leaning towards upgrading the brakes anyways since the price delta looks like $0 - $200.

I'm getting a set of digital calipers to measure the rotors tomorrow.

I've read elsewhere that the wheel bearings will need to be replaced since they are stock. Can anyone confirm that?

Is there anything else I should be replacing while I'm in here? The brake hoses and master cylinder have already been replaced.

[David T]

The calipers don't look all that bad and replacing the pistons is a no-brainer. If you plan on keeping the car S/S pistons are the way to go. You *could* clean the calipers and buy some paint form Eastwood to make them pretty. A shop will measure the rotors so you don't need to buy a caliper. You only have to replace the bad one if it can't be saved, you do not have to replace "good" ones, if necessarily they might just need a light cut to clean them up. If you remove the rotors figure on replacing the wheel bearings (the front ones). Of course you will need 2 caliper kits for the fronts but you should also do the rears. You might want to get the hardware kits too but not required. While you are doing this you inspect the suspension and lubricate it. You may find you need bushings, tie rod ends, ball joints, or shocks. If you are looking for an excuse to "upgrade" the brakes, now is the time to do it but it will cost more for a very minor improvement.

[kdumont]

The calipers don't look all that bad and replacing the pistons is a no-brainer. If you plan on keeping the car S/S pistons are the way to go. You *could* clean the calipers and buy some paint form Eastwood to make them pretty. A shop will measure the rotors so you don't need to buy a caliper. You only have to replace the bad one if it can't be saved, you do not have to replace "good" ones, if necessarily they might just need a light cut to clean them up. If you remove the rotors figure on replacing the wheel bearings (the front ones). Of course you will need 2 caliper kits for the fronts but you should also do the rears. You might want to get the hardware kits too but not required. While you are doing this you inspect the suspension and lubricate it. You may find you need bushings, tie rod ends, ball joints, or shocks. If you are looking for an excuse to "upgrade" the brakes, now is the time to do it but it will cost more for a very minor improvement.


If you pull the front hubs odds are the bearing seal beaks. The problem is the bearing freezes to the spindle.


For your last question on anything else for replacement, for the front brake pads with the vented rotors up front I used EBC Green Stuff pads, which is what was recommended from Martin at DMC UK when he came out with one of the first front vented rotor kits.

Thanks for the tips everyone! I got the brakes together yesterday. I ended up splurging and going with the vented rotors from Delorean Go & EBC red, low dust brake pads, though in retrospect I certainly could've saved some money and refurbed the original parts as Dave described. I'll break down the rear calipers this upcoming week - most likely I'll just buy new pistons in advance.

Here's my work update:
- Sand down and apply high-temp rustoleum to dust shield [DONE]
- Replace front wheel bearings [DONE]
- Replace rotors + calipers [DONE]
- Build + bleed [DONE]
- Touch up rust on control arm [TO DO]
- Update tie rod end dust boot [TO DO]
- Teardown rear calipers [TO DO]
- Bleed again [TO DO]

With the cleanup, new calipers, and polished dust shield it looks MUCH better. The suspension looks good as far as I can tell, but the tie rod end dust boot is basically non-existent. I'll update with some photos once I have the new tie rod boot on.

I had a couple fit issues with the new calipers. None of my brake pads fit in the new calipers, so I had to file down the sides quite a bit. The hub also came in contact with the calipers, so I had to file the front of the calipers down as well.

One thing I'm concerned about is how much I had to work to get the driver's side hub on with the new bearing. The old ones came off fine and actually looked great, but I decided to update the bearings anyways per the suggestion on most threads I saw. The passenger's side went on just fine, but the driver's was really ugly and the bearing deformed a lot as I was getting it on.

Should I just keep an eye on this or is this a "start over" kind of deal? I'm also curious if anyone has assessed the build quality of different wheel bearings.

Also, do I need to update the rear brake pads if they're in good condition?

[dmcman73]

Thanks for the tips everyone! I got the brakes together yesterday. I ended up splurging and going with the vented rotors from Delorean Go & EBC red, low dust brake pads, though in retrospect I certainly could've saved some money and refurbed the original parts as Dave described. I'll break down the rear calipers this upcoming week - most likely I'll just buy new pistons in advance.

Here's my work update:
- Sand down and apply high-temp rustoleum to dust shield [DONE]
- Replace front wheel bearings [DONE]
- Replace rotors + calipers [DONE]
- Build + bleed [DONE]
- Touch up rust on control arm [TO DO]
- Update tie rod end dust boot [TO DO]
- Teardown rear calipers [TO DO]
- Bleed again [TO DO]

With the cleanup, new calipers, and polished dust shield it looks MUCH better. The suspension looks good as far as I can tell, but the tie rod end dust boot is basically non-existent. I'll update with some photos once I have the new tie rod boot on.

I had a couple fit issues with the new calipers. None of my brake pads fit in the new calipers, so I had to file down the sides quite a bit. The hub also came in contact with the calipers, so I had to file the front of the calipers down as well.

One thing I'm concerned about is how much I had to work to get the driver's side hub on with the new bearing. The old ones came off fine and actually looked great, but I decided to update the bearings anyways per the suggestion on most threads I saw. The passenger's side went on just fine, but the driver's was really ugly and the bearing deformed a lot as I was getting it on.

Should I just keep an eye on this or is this a "start over" kind of deal? I'm also curious if anyone has assessed the build quality of different wheel bearings.

Also, do I need to update the rear brake pads if they're in good condition?

The bearing deformed as you were pressing it into the hub or it deformed as you were installing the hub onto the spindle? If it deformed while pressing into the hub, you are going to run into issues if the outer portion of the nearing deformed and the path the bearings roll over is no longer smooth and perfectly circular.

[kdumont]

The bearing deformed as you were pressing it into the hub or it deformed as you were installing the hub onto the spindle? If it deformed while pressing into the hub, you are going to run into issues if the outer portion of the nearing deformed and the path the bearings roll over is no longer smooth and perfectly circular.

While pressing the hub onto the spindle. Essentially the inner shaft of the bearing started to slip out - I caught before it came out completely and pushed it back in.

[Bitsyncmaster]

While pressing the hub onto the spindle. Essentially the inner shaft of the bearing started to slip out - I caught before it came out completely and pushed it back in.

The bearings should slip pretty easy over the spindle. Best to dry test it first and if it sticks to much polish the shaft with some emery paper.