New Door Lock ECU

[Bitsyncmaster]

The number one problem with the OE door lock ECU (and the LOCKZILA) is the sticking relays that can lock you in the car and damage the solenoids and wiring. It’s not that the relays are under rated, it’s caused by the slow voltage drop on the relay coils that cause arcing and the contact burn closed. Have you ever slowly switched a wall switch in your house and hear the arcing?

The second problem is the 12 ma. constant current draw for non-daily drivers. Without charging the battery you only get a few months before you have lost 50% of battery power.

The third problem is you can’t driver actuators without adding extra relays. The unit has to ground the outputs when not driving the to 12 volts.

When I first got my car I built a new door lock ECU using CMOS logic and that worked fine for me but I never got enough requests from other owners so never did a PCB for it. Well I finally did a new design with a micro and got PCBs made. Now the problem is getting the OEM style 9 pin connectors. DeLoreanGO has some but I suspect even their stock will go away. The two pin connectors are also impossible to find. So we may have to start replacing connectors with something else. Now the door lock ECU has two power wires (both brown always hot) not really needed. It also has the driver outputs separated for each door. Those 4 connections can be made to two connection is they are joined on the harness side rather then the ECU side. Since the ECU is only driving power for a fraction of a second, wire melting is not a problem with smaller gauge wires.

So anyway, my unit has all 9 wires but I’m not adding a connector (yet). My unit has the power running to a 20 amp internal fuse. Standby power is 279 ua. The unit drives power for 333 ms. Which will drive either solenoids or actuators. I’m still designing the filtering routines in software to reduce a problem with the door switch electrical noise. My drivers door switch seems to randomly not work so I I have to pull the covers off the door and adjust the locks and switch (I did have an unlock failure on that door when no ECU was connected). I think the ECU helps prevent the unlock problems because it moves the linkage a little better than just using the mechanical switch. I just drop the ECU in the area beside my relay plate and the car body.

[Domi]

Really nice board!

[Farrar]

Dave, this is excellent! I have connectors that I can reuse for my car, so is there any chance I could order one of these modules from you with no connectors so I can add my own?

[Malevy]

Got a price set on the new DLM?

I had the "noise" problem with my design too, a capacitor cleaned it up.


This place said they will make more connectors as the orders come in..

https://www.automotiveconnectors.com/replacement-for-9-way-lucas-rists-tts-socket-female-black.html

[WHO1DMC]

This a link for a company in PA for connectors and other things. I have ordered from them in the past with no problems.
They also have a UK office as well.
I would also be in the market for one. I also have connectors so not a problem.

http://www.britishwiring.com/Multi-Wire-Connectors-s/35.htm

[Bitsyncmaster]

Dave, this is excellent! I have connectors that I can reuse for my car, so is there any chance I could order one of these modules from you with no connectors so I can add my own?

Let me get my door apart so I can see how the door switch is made. I want to see how it makes ground contact to know more about the noise to expect. I hope it's a multi contact wiper arm. I would guess there are two large copper pads separated so it immediately switches from one side grounded to the other without the possibility of both sides switching.

I drive each switch wire with 5 volts through a 20 Kohm resistor. That actually is what draws the most standby current (250 ua.) The switch pulls it down through a diode. I also have a capacitor on that pull up so it filters the rising edge but not the falling edge.

FYI:
The switches are wired parallel at the harness connector side. So you can only work the power on the falling edge of the switch since the other door switch keeps the line grounded till you power it to move. If you had separate switch inputs you could aid the switch moving rather than wait till it moves to the other position.

I was thinking of pricing it at $75 without the connector.

I forgot, I also have two extra input locations on the PCB if someone insists on having a remote. I'm against that since all the remote receivers draw about 15 ma. all the time. Maybe a daily driver could use it but most of us don't drive it enough to cure battery discharge.

[WHO1DMC]

75 dollars. That's definitely a good deal!


Dave B.

[mark w]

interested!

[Bitsyncmaster]

I forgot another thing I put in the software for you guys that switch your battery off. If one door is locked and the other unlocked, on power up (you turn the battery on) I will unlock the doors.

[Malevy]

This a link for a company in PA for connectors and other things. I have ordered from them in the past with no problems.
They also have a UK office as well.
I would also be in the market for one. I also have connectors so not a problem.

http://www.britishwiring.com/Multi-Wire-Connectors-s/35.htm

They only sell it in a "set", male and female.. Don't need both.

[Josh]

This a link for a company in PA for connectors and other things. I have ordered from them in the past with no problems.
They also have a UK office as well.
I would also be in the market for one. I also have connectors so not a problem.

http://www.britishwiring.com/Multi-Wire-Connectors-s/35.htm

They do not sell 9 pin connectors anymore.
The site is also missing listings for the female terminals, but they have the male terminals. Does not make sense.
I order wire from them though, they have a good variety and mostly all the same colors and diameters as stock.

[larsmhh]

Hi Dave!
That is an elegantly designed PCB.
But I do not like two aspects: 1) The use of SMD components which makes it much harder to change components or to find cold solder joints (if it gets a few years old) or to change components and 2) the special on-board fuse (why not use blade fuses that could be integrated in the housing).
Please do not understand this as criticism but as a community talk.

I did revise the original ECU with the modifications I did find here (? - I´m not sure, maybe it was somewhere else in the internet. If desired, I could search for the link) with different resistors and transistors to lower the stand-by current. It works fine - hopefully also in the future...

Best wishes and have a mery christmas,

Lars.

[Bitsyncmaster]

I did look at using a blade fuse but with a socket it was to high to fit in the small box I decided to use. I really never expect a fuse to blow. Just to protect for a short circuit in the car wiring. The fuse lets you run without the original circuit breaker.

I never expect anyone would need to replace any components.

[Malevy]

Hi Dave!
That is an elegantly designed PCB.
But I do not like two aspects: 1) The use of SMD components which makes it much harder to change components or to find cold solder joints (if it gets a few years old) or to change components and 2) the special on-board fuse (why not use blade fuses that could be integrated in the housing).
Please do not understand this as criticism but as a community talk.

I did revise the original ECU with the modifications I did find here (? - I´m not sure, maybe it was somewhere else in the internet. If desired, I could search for the link) with different resistors and transistors to lower the stand-by current. It works fine - hopefully also in the future...

Best wishes and have a mery christmas,

Lars.

This modification you speak of I think was developed by Elvis in Germany. It is a significant improvement because of the idle current, but does not address the problem of the slow capacitor discharge through the coil. I have gone back and forth on how critical this is. On the one hand, some of these lock modules are 40 years old now and the relays are still fine. On the other hand, many lock modules had early failures which prompted such products like LockZilla. I have parts in stock to repair and "upgrade" the original DLM, but demand for this service is low (I'd say non-existent).


I did look at using a blade fuse but with a socket it was to high to fit in the small box I decided to use. I really never expect a fuse to blow. Just to protect for a short circuit in the car wiring. The fuse lets you run without the original circuit breaker.

I never expect anyone would need to replace any components.

Considering the original DLM had no fuse protection at all (the circuit breaker only protects the door solenoid), this is an improvement. I also agree that the SMD is an improvement. SMD is much less likely to suffer from vibrations issues IMHO.

There are a few things I would have done differently, but that is all a matter of opinion. I am confident anything Dave makes/sells will be good quality.

[dmcman73]

This is awesome! I was going to redesign the DLM myself but if Dave is on this, sign me up for one!

[Bitsyncmaster]

Here is a photo of the door lock switch. It did not seem to move enough when I operated the manual lock button. I think some of the lock rods are not adjusted causing the limit to movement.

Anyway it looks like very little pressure on those contacts (one side has less). Also the connector pins are very oxidized (surprised it ever worked). I did get a little more movement using the actuator. What I'm going to do is Tarnex clean the pins and replace the female pins on the mating connector. I will clean up the contacts and bend the arms a little for more pressure.

Then installing one rod at a time it will let me adjust the rods to proper length while I look for maximum travel of the switch.

[Bitsyncmaster]

Well after all that work on the drivers side door, it turns out the passenger side is the problem. The passenger side does not quite lock when solenoid powered only. By not lock I mean the contacts don't close unless I give it a little push on the manual lock button.

Anyway the drivers side is properly adjusted now. What works to set the rod lengths is connect the manual switch rod and then you swing the pivot back and forth and just adjust each rod so it will travel to those ends of movements.

Now when working the locks with the door open, I latched all four door latches (close the arm). Just remember to put all those latches back before closing the doors.

Now to workup the energy to pull the passenger door apart.

[Bitsyncmaster]

Now I pulled the panels off the passenger door and everything is working now.:shock:

It must be a dirty switch contact since that switch is moving fully over the contacts. Oh well will pull the switch, clean it and the connector. Will check the rods anyway since it's all open.

[Timebender]

It interested in one - I have connectors from my original unit as well as the crummy DeLorean one.

[Bitsyncmaster]

When both door switches are working, there is no electrical noise since your moving the contacts off one door but the other door keeps the circuit grounded. The only noise you get is when the contact makes the ground on the new side but that is nothing to filter in my software.

What I will do it disconnect one door switch and move the switch ever so slowly and see if I can eliminate any noise in that condition.

The passenger side looked better than the drivers side (Less oxidation on contacts and pins) so it must have been a dirty contact. Only one rod needed adjustment. My locks never felt so good when working now.

God I hate those pins in the connectors. The male pins are pretty easy to pull but the female pins are so hard. The problem is the two latches are to wide to compress into the pin and they are pointed which makes them dig into the plastic shell. Very poorly engineered for removal.

[Bitsyncmaster]

That was a good test to unplug one door switch and try to screw it up. I was able to very slowly move the switch so the ground lifted and then move it back and it found a bug in my software that kicked the solenoids back the same unlock position. Not that anyone would have seen that but it was a simple software change.

I still have not tested it with solenoids but those work faster than the actuators and my relays are rated for 20 amps continuous and much higher for peak.

I will now build up 10 units.

[Malevy]

When both door switches are working, there is no electrical noise since your moving the contacts off one door but the other door keeps the circuit grounded. The only noise you get is when the contact makes the ground on the new side but that is nothing to filter in my software.

When I did my DLM, I had everything working with the car off.. Then, took the car for a ride. Other sources of "noise" in the car would sometimes make the lock actuators click. In my case, I filtered in hardware... But, however you plan on filtering- I'd leave it in there even if you think you don't need it.

[Bitsyncmaster]

When I did my DLM, I had everything working with the car off.. Then, took the car for a ride. Other sources of "noise" in the car would sometimes make the lock actuators click. In my case, I filtered in hardware... But, however you plan on filtering- I'd leave it in there even if you think you don't need it.

I did some more thought on noise. I could see if the car was moving or on a bad road the ground connections on the door switches could be noisy. So my software remembers what condition the locks are set and will not fire the solenoids (or actuators) to that same condition. Hence both door switches lost ground and then go back to ground. It won't cause noise getting a ground on the opposite side since the switches never get close to making that contact. I did leave the capacitor filter in anyway but I would bet that software filter would work by itself.

[Bitsyncmaster]

This a link for a company in PA for connectors and other things. I have ordered from them in the past with no problems.
They also have a UK office as well.
I would also be in the market for one. I also have connectors so not a problem.

http://www.britishwiring.com/Multi-Wire-Connectors-s/35.htm

Britishwiring is only showing 16 of the 9 pin pairs in stock. I wonder if they can get more. I do have some 9 pin connectors but I would need a supply of them to sell many units with the connector attached.

[Bitsyncmaster]

Ive got 8 units (no connector) with 9 inch long wires ready to sell. If you wanted one I will sell for $75 including shipping to US address.

I attached my notes I started for documentation. Also a photo of a stock connector wired.

I'm still working on notes but if you have any questions, let me know.

[BABIS]

Hello Dave,

can you add instructions about adding the two ground inputs from remote module?

do you think your board will fit inside the stock dlm housing?

Thanks

[Bitsyncmaster]

Hello Dave,

can you add instructions about adding the two ground inputs from remote module?

do you think your board will fit inside the stock dlm housing?

Thanks

The two inputs are the two empty solder pads labeled W10 and W11. Right now I have software looking for a rising edge to do a lock or unlock. W10 is for lock and W11 is for unlock. Voltage from your remote can be anything up to 250 volts but the low level must be less than one volt. My circuit board is 2.34 inches long and 1.535 inches wide. I use 16 AWG wire for all connections.

[Chris 16409]

Dave couldn’t we have the connector 3D printed?

British Wiring may be getting their connectors from here:

https://www.autosparks.co.uk/electrical-components/plugs-connectors/9-way-3mm-pin-socket-connector

So I’d say the supply should be good enough to satisfy a run of your Lock modules.

[Bitsyncmaster]

Dave couldn’t we have the connector 3D printed?

British Wiring may be getting their connectors from here:

https://www.autosparks.co.uk/electrical-components/plugs-connectors/9-way-3mm-pin-socket-connector

So I’d say the supply should be good enough to satisfy a run of your Lock modules.

It's mostly the pins that would require quite an investment to produce. Actually making little changes to pin design would enable the female pins to be removed easily. The AMP connectors are much better for pin removal. You can even do it without an extractor. I just think there are none being produced any longer. I did a test of ordering 50 of those and it came back only 26 were in stock.

Yes you could 3D print the shell but I would not want to do production numbers with my 3D printer. Mine uses liquid and a laser which works with great resolution but it messy cleaning up and slow to print.

By the way, My LOCKZILA used one of the AMP connectors so they have been around a long time.

[Bitsyncmaster]

I had a customer that wanted to use a remote. So his system seems to use a negative pulse to lock or unlock. So as I was changing the software, I found a bug with the remote operation that I had to also fix in the software. The stock door lock switches stay set or clear but the remote is just a pulse and I did not account for that with my first software design.

So right now, I will keep the negative pulse for remote operation.

[Chris 16409]

I wonder what Houston is doing for their Digital Lock Unit. Several of the recent ones I’ve seen have had a blue connector. I wonder if they are harvesting them from old wiring harnesses. Last time I checked, the website showed out of stock.

[Bitsyncmaster]

I wonder what Houston is doing for their Digital Lock Unit. Several of the recent ones I’ve seen have had a blue connector. I wonder if they are harvesting them from old wiring harnesses. Last time I checked, the website showed out of stock.

Toby has no stock of his fans with connector. He does have them without connector. That is the two pin connector. I have a blue idle ECU connector that came with an idle ECU core I bought. I guess a Volvo car used them.

[MikeWard]

Autosparks make those connectors brand new.

If they don't currently have enough in stock, perhaps try contacting them to obtain pricing/timeline for the quantity you require.
https://www.autosparks.co.uk/contact
[email protected]

[Bitsyncmaster]

Autosparks make those connectors brand new.

If they don't currently have enough in stock, perhaps try contacting them to obtain pricing/timeline for the quantity you require.
https://www.autosparks.co.uk/contact
[email protected]

Thanks. I contacted them.

[Malevy]

Based on my research, AMP discontinued their version of these Lucas connectors.

I also thought about 3D printing the connectors. I found suitable 3mm pins that would work, I suspect the plastic print could be printed to use a modern 3mm pin.

[Chris 16409]

Brandon has already test printed one:

65299

[Rhye]

I also thought about 3D printing the connectors.

No problem to make a male plug using cheap FDM:

65300

Female side will be a bit more challenging because of those tiny latches - I'd use polyamide filament and print it sitting on a short side. Industrial grade SLS or MJF would be perfect here, but these are more expensive.

[Bitsyncmaster]

Can someone post a photo of the wire end of there harness connector for the door lock unit. Not sure if mine was stock with a large brown wire in the top single pin on the connector. I had the LockZilla in my car when I bought it. I thought the top pin was unfused 12 volts and then the door lock unit took that mating pin to the circuit breaker and then the circuit breaker powered the relays in the stock door lock unit.

I think the LockZilla changed that power but I may have changed it when I did my first door lock unit over 10 years ago.

[WHO1DMC]

Can someone post a photo of the wire end of there harness connector for the door lock unit. Not sure if mine was stock with a large brown wire in the top single pin on the connector. I had the LockZilla in my car when I bought it. I thought the top pin was unfused 12 volts and then the door lock unit took that mating pin to the circuit breaker and then the circuit breaker powered the relays in the stock door lock unit.

I think the LockZilla changed that power but I may have changed it when I did my first door lock unit over 10 years ago.

Mine has nothing in that location.

Working on a pic for you.


Dave B.

[WHO1DMC]

Mine has nothing in that location.

Working on a pic for you.


Dave B.

Hope this helps.

[Bitsyncmaster]

Thanks for the photo. Now it came back to me from 10 or more years ago when I built my first door lock unit. I had the Zilla case which has a circuit breaker mounted inside of it. So I decided to remove the breaker mounted on the metal because it was rated higher than the breaker in the Zilla. So I just used the brown wire feeding the breaker and put a pin on it and used that extra pin in the connector.

So if you want to keep the breaker, you would wire one of my brown wires to the breaker like they did with the OEM unit.

Since the solenoids only get power for 333 ms. removing the breaker does not really save heat generated, it only reduces a few connections. The fan circuit breaker should be removed if using fused jumper wires or my fan fail since that runs a long time and produces heat.

[dmcman73]

I purchased one of David’s DLM, I was the one working with him with the negative trigger keyless entry.

I added the 9pin connector to the unit, but, I tied both brown wires to a spade connector so I can plug it into the DLM thermal breaker. Since both brown wires are tied to each other internally, it didn’t make sense to put one into the 9 pin connector and one on the breaker. The original DLM required two separate 12v feeds, one for the solenoids (that 12v feed went to the thermal breaker) and the other for the rest of the circuit to power it (that 12v feed goes directly to pin 4 of the 9 pin connector). I wanted to keep everything as close to original as possible for easier trouble shooting with the current wiring diagram/ fuse locations and also to easily install another lock module (or help test one for another owner) if need be.

Dave added the red and green wires for my remote lock/unlock unit and I am just waiting for a two pin molex connectors to come in to keep it all clean and allow me to remove the DLM easily in the future.

Dave did a fantastic job with this and packed it all into a very small unit. I’m going to swap out my solenoids for the lighter and lower draw actuators in my door.

[Chris4099]

One suggestion I have for a future revision is a lock disable feature. In my case, I rebuilt my factory module to the lower standby current and then added a discharge resister and diode to the lock side (thanks to Elvis for this idea). This is then grounded when a door is open and prevents the lock module from activating the locks. Very handy feature, especially with a keyless entry. All the installer would need to do is tap in at the white delay module (or plug into the alarm output of they have the digital delay module).

[BABIS]

One suggestion I have for a future revision is a lock disable feature. In my case, I rebuilt my factory module to the lower standby current and then added a discharge resister and diode to the lock side (thanks to Elvis for this idea). This is then grounded when a door is open and prevents the lock module from activating the locks. Very handy feature, especially with a keyless entry. All the installer would need to do is tap in at the white delay module (or plug into the alarm output of they have the digital delay module).

this would be a clever feature. do you have more infos about the mod?

[Chris4099]

this would be a clever feature. do you have more infos about the mod?

Unfortunately I don't as I did this over a decade ago and have long deleted the details Elvis sent me. I'm not even sure it would work with a factory module or any of the replacements as mine is factory with this modification: http://www.teslorean.com/assets/uploads/documents/pdf/Door-Lock-Module-mod.pdf

However, it's basically a resistor and diode connected to the lock trigger wire. When the door is opened, you ground that connection via the resistor and diode. It then slowly discharges the capacitor and will not trigger the lock relay as if an immediate straight to ground would. The exact value of the resistor is the unknown part. I can't look at the current one either as I have it covered in heat shrink. I guess you can try different value of resistors as there's no harm. Simply start with grounding via the resistor. If the lock triggers, try a higher value of resistor. If it doesn't, wait a second and then bypass the resistor directly and go to ground. If the lock then triggers, the value is too high. A diode isn't needed during testing if you are going straight to ground. Once you have a value that works, add the diode (to prevent any current from feeding from the door lights back into the lock module) and you should be set.

[dmcman73]

One suggestion I have for a future revision is a lock disable feature. In my case, I rebuilt my factory module to the lower standby current and then added a discharge resister and diode to the lock side (thanks to Elvis for this idea). This is then grounded when a door is open and prevents the lock module from activating the locks. Very handy feature, especially with a keyless entry. All the installer would need to do is tap in at the white delay module (or plug into the alarm output of they have the digital delay module).

If you perform a "wedgectemy" on the door locks, you don't have to worry about this.

https://support.delorean.com/kb/a101/door-latch-modification-new.aspx

[Jakub]

So I have installed Dave unit today, I have also added remote unit. In order to keep wiring original I did order dedicated 9 pin socket from England and because of Brexit delivery instead of three days has taken three weeks. Anyhow, as far as door lock go I have full service now, indoor buttons, outdoor keys, FOB, indicators flashing, you name it I've got it. I have been playing, locking and unlocking zyllion times, everything works. Thank you David.

[iOutatime]

When I first got my car I built a new door lock ECU using CMOS logic and that worked fine for me but I never got enough requests from other owners so never did a PCB for it. Well I finally did a new design with a micro and got PCBs made. Now the problem is getting the OEM style 9 pin connectors. DeLoreanGO has some but I suspect even their stock will go away. The two pin connectors are also impossible to find.

Brandon Fayette has reproduced the 9-pin "church" connector for 3D printing for FREE if anyone needs them! His 3D printing has been a godsend in recent times. Here is his original Facebook post: https://www.facebook.com/groups/116227491775513/permalink/3908656525865905/

Visit his Dropbox link and see his page on DeLorean Directory for all his 3D models that are freely available for anyone to print. I'd recommend using an online 3D printing service (like ShapeWays) to upload the files and have them professionally printed and shipped right to your door. Again, not trying to boast. But the guy is amazing and I love when different members of the community can solve the missing pieces for each other. :deedledee:

[iOutatime]

I just drop the ECU in the area beside my relay plate and the car body.

A small thing to worry about as of right now, but I can see about getting a 3D printable model of the OEM Door Lock Module housing scanned and place standoffs inside with a removable lid to install the board into.. that way it would fasten to the OEM mounting location. Perhaps it could be possible with a REV B board if not REV A? Seems like the REV A board is more than small enough to fit in the housing as is. Just food for thought, Dave. :thinkin:

[Timebender]

Brandon Fayette has reproduced the 9-pin "church" connector for 3D printing for FREE if anyone needs them! His 3D printing has been a godsend in recent times. Here is his original Facebook post: https://www.facebook.com/groups/116227491775513/permalink/3908656525865905/

Visit his Dropbox link and see his page on DeLorean Directory for all his 3D models that are freely available for anyone to print. I'd recommend using an online 3D printing service (like ShapeWays) to upload the files and have them professionally printed and shipped right to your door. Again, not trying to boast. But the guy is amazing and I love when different members of the community can solve the missing pieces for each other. :deedledee:

I just checked out his Dropbox- wow! This guy is extremely clever and there’s so many good things to find there.
What a great resource!

[Malevy]

Brandon Fayette has reproduced the 9-pin "church" connector for 3D printing for FREE if anyone needs them! His 3D printing has been a godsend in recent times. Here is his original Facebook post: https://www.facebook.com/groups/116227491775513/permalink/3908656525865905/

Visit his Dropbox link and see his page on DeLorean Directory for all his 3D models that are freely available for anyone to print. I'd recommend using an online 3D printing service (like ShapeWays) to upload the files and have them professionally printed and shipped right to your door. Again, not trying to boast. But the guy is amazing and I love when different members of the community can solve the missing pieces for each other. :deedledee:

Very cool that someone is doing these designs and providing them to the community for free. Restores some of my faith in the community. I'll check out the drawings, but wondering what style metal pins are used? I think there are at least 2 stiles of the 3mm pin.


A small thing to worry about as of right now, but I can see about getting a 3D printable model of the OEM Door Lock Module housing scanned and place standoffs inside with a removable lid to install the board into.. that way it would fasten to the OEM mounting location. Perhaps it could be possible with a REV B board if not REV A? Seems like the REV A board is more than small enough to fit in the housing as is. Just food for thought, Dave. :thinkin:

Someone printed a DLM box for me that matches the original design. Not my design file, but I did ask for a few extra housings (have not gotten them yet). My board outline is the same as the OEM, so it fits well. Modified to control the lock actuators and door/bonnet opener.

[Bitsyncmaster]

Yes the OEM pins are not really interchangeable with the AMP connector. My pin extractor does not work with the AMP pins.

[iOutatime]

Very cool that someone is doing these designs and providing them to the community for free. Restores some of my faith in the community. I'll check out the drawings, but wondering what style metal pins are used? I think there are at least 2 stiles of the 3mm pin.

I think I've found the two types of Pins you're referring to:

https://www.automotiveconnectors.com/lucas-rists-round-female-term-20-16awg.html (I think it might be these)
and the male ver: https://www.automotiveconnectors.com/lucas-rists-round-male-term-20-16awg.html
or
https://www.automotiveconnectors.com/lucas-rists-round-female-terminal.html ... but I can't find the male version at the moment.

[Malevy]

I think I've found the two types of Pins you're referring to:

What is more important is which pins fit the 3D printed connector.

[Malevy]

Photo of my 3D printed DLM box..

65627

[iOutatime]

What is more important is which pins fit the 3D printed connector.

The 3D printed connector from Brandon should be a carbon copy of the OEM plug. The pins have got to be one of the two links I posted above..

Does anyone have a photo of one of the connector pins pulled out to compare to these two to figure out which is correct?
65636
65637

[Rhye]

Does anyone have a photo of one of the connector pins pulled out to compare to these two to figure out which is correct?


2-nd one is wrong for sure - it has some extra blades coming out just behind the crimping area so it won't fit. 1-st one looks good.

Female connector housing with latches:

65640

RISTS_9way_female.STL (https://drive.google.com/file/d/1gBmtGML2lLST5Kky5JGukcerqTBgoq1g/view?usp=sharing)
RISTS_9way_female.STEP (https://drive.google.com/file/d/1yurA2bDu05_LRMCUlX9OSvDBsCuIDn3N/view?usp=sharing)

May require some minor corrections so I'm attaching a STEP file as well. The latches should last long enough if printed with polyamide filament and if the printing direction is like on the picture.

[Bitsyncmaster]

I made a change to the DOOR LOCK ECU. This change prevents damage to the ECU, solenoids or actuators in case they get power for to long. That would only be caused by a failed component or a stuck relay.

The change is using a 10 amp fuse for solenoids or a 3 amp fuse for actuators and a software change. I was powering the outputs on for 333 ms. but now power them on for 150 ma.

If you want me to make the change in your existing unit, send it back to me to update.

[Meta]

Are these still available?

[Bitsyncmaster]

They are without the connector. Customers find a connector or splice my wires to their original.

[Meta]

They are without the connector. Customers find a connector or splice my wires to their original.

Is that a straight forward swap? How much do you charge for them? Thanks for replying

[Bitsyncmaster]

Is that a straight forward swap? How much do you charge for them? Thanks for replying

You would need to splice in your old connector, find a new connector or splice in without a connector. Otherwise it works just like the old one and will work with actuators also. You let me know if your running OEM solenoids or actuators and I fuse it for that. Price is $107 which includes shipping to US address.