Warning Lights Out Except Oil

[Midnight Specialist]

Over the summer I replaced all the bulbs in the dash with LEDs and put a new incandescent for the battery. Before I left for an overseas deployment the lights all worked. I recently returned and now only the oil light will illuminate. I tested the battery with a multimeter and it appears to be charging. Does anyone have any ideas what this could be? https://youtu.be/wpJinnBJfeY

[Midnight Specialist]

Update. I have seen the batter light flicker once or twice when the engine didn’t all the way turn over. Also, the gas light flickers when I turn the key to the position 2. https://youtu.be/hKpWSMgKfkc


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[MrChocky]

Over the summer I replaced all the bulbs in the dash with LEDs and put a new incandescent for the battery. Before I left for an overseas deployment the lights all worked. I recently returned and now only the oil light will illuminate. I tested the battery with a multimeter and it appears to be charging. Does anyone have any ideas what this could be? https://youtu.be/wpJinnBJfeYAre you sure the incandescent is the same? The system is picky about the resistance.

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[Midnight Specialist]

I hope so. I got it from DMC and it did work when I put the dash back together.

[David T]

A possible bad connection between the flexible PCB and the plug that goes into it. Or a missing ground.

[Midnight Specialist]

being the new Delorean owner that I am, what is the flexible PCB? and would that be a bad ground on the alternator?

[David T]

The flexible PCB is that thing that on the back of the binnacle (instrument cluster) that all of the lights and gauges are connected to. The ground I am referring to is the main ground for the IP on the front, left radiator support, frame end, with all of the black wires.

[Midnight Specialist]

Thanks David. I think you might be on to something there with the ground. When I was away the car overheated and had to have a new radiator and new fans put in.

[Ron]

That ground may be causing some of the problems. But the oil light and battery light have their own, separate, grounds. Since they use the same power source and the oil light works while the battery light does not, I'd try grounding the NY (brown with yellow stripe) wire at the alternator with the key on. If the battery light does not come on, I'd retest the alternator, then pull the binnacle and check out the white plug connections (and bulb).
(The fuel, brake, seat belt and door ajar lights all use separate, grounds.)

[Midnight Specialist]

Thanks Ron. I have a new alternator coming in from Delorean Industries as I still have the factory Ducillier unit. The bulb shouldn't be out as I have seen it flicker yesterday.

[David T]

There is a simple self-test for the bulb and alternator. On start-up, with the key on and engine off, before you get to the start position, the bulb must light up and then go out once the motor has started. Most drivers never take notice of that or the oil light but that is how you know they work.

[Midnight Specialist]

I noticed that and it’s just the oil light. I have seen it flicker once or twice so I’m thinking it’s the alternator, but I threw a multimeter on the battery while it was running and it’s charging


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[David T]

If you are having trouble with just the oil light, the wire running done the back of the motor gets burnt and can cause the light to flicker but it should still light up when the motor is off and the key is on.

[larsmhh]

Over the summer I replaced all the bulbs in the dash with LEDs and put a new incandescent for the battery. Before I left for an overseas deployment the lights all worked. I recently returned and now only the oil light will illuminate. I tested the battery with a multimeter and it appears to be charging. Does anyone have any ideas what this could be? https://youtu.be/wpJinnBJfeY

I changed the incandescent bulbs two years ago and did have the problem that nothing really worked after the principially "easy" change. In particular the indicator relais (and the indicator bulbs) did not work properly and did stay on permanent or did not work at all. At least it was the big connector (near the speedometer cable) that was - but not properly - connected in the socket. Because the connector is hard to see during installation (so little space to work) I would check this connection first.

Good luck,

Lars.

[David T]

The other thing you must be aware of when switching to LED bulbs is that they are sensitive to being installed the "wrong" way and if a bulb doesn't work you have to remove it and try it the other way.