New (to me) What's my future?

[Helirich]

So I finally bought a Delorean. (Been looking for years) Brought it home today on a trailer.

The good.
-9/10 body. Two dings the size of a dime. Slight deformation above inner headlights.

-8/10 Interior. Fan control knob is loose. Clock doesn't work.

-7/10 Chassis. Just slightest pealing of paint on box frame at the edges. Maybe some rust trying to bubble up there.

Lots of documentation and a set of brand new tires.

The bad.

-Fuse box melted

-discs look really grungy.

-Engine turns over but won't start.

The has been sitting for about two years. The previous owner said it needs a clean out of the fuel system and the fuse box replaced. I understand about the fuel, but I have no spark. It appears to be unrelated to the fuse box.

First question, how do you remove the fuel distribution thing to get the dizzy cap off? I'm thinking maybe the 4 bolts at the front where it bolts to the intake? Not real clear in the manuals.

Anyways, you'll be hearing from me more often now.

[mark w]

Welcome and congrats!

what does the fuel tank smell like?

if you tried to start it without first flushing the ENTIRE system- its now toast. time to replace or rebuild the whole fuel system. sorry but the CIS fuel system is very sensitive and cannot handle old sticky gooey fuel.


to change the distributer cap you dont need to remove the entire fuel mixture or any of the lines. remove the air cleaner, then remove the screws holding down the mixture unit- two little brackets on either side. this will allow you to lift it a little bit. then the came can be removed. its still a pain in the A$$ but possible.


So I finally bought a Delorean. (Been looking for years) Brought it home today on a trailer.

The good.
-9/10 body. Two dings the size of a dime. Slight deformation above inner headlights.

-8/10 Interior. Fan control knob is loose. Clock doesn't work.

-7/10 Chassis. Just slightest pealing of paint on box frame at the edges. Maybe some rust trying to bubble up there.

Lots of documentation and a set of brand new tires.

The bad.

-Fuse box melted

-discs look really grungy.

-Engine turns over but won't start.

The has been sitting for about two years. The previous owner said it needs a clean out of the fuel system and the fuse box replaced. I understand about the fuel, but I have no spark. It appears to be unrelated to the fuse box.

First question, how do you remove the fuel distribution thing to get the dizzy cap off? I'm thinking maybe the 4 bolts at the front where it bolts to the intake? Not real clear in the manuals.

Anyways, you'll be hearing from me more often now.

[David T]

No need to get to the distributor. If you need to check for spark either pull the coil wire or a spark plug. Or try a shot of Ether. Chances are the reason it won't start are fuel related anyway. Especially if you tried to start it with a tank full of stale gas.

[Helirich]

Thanks guys,

Yea, I ended up determining the fuel pump was shot. The tank is full of gunk. It's clean now and I have a new one coming. (Plus filter) I'm going to pull the accumulator and run some gas through it. Do you think I should just order one?

Of course that has nothing to do with the spark. Ordered a new module and fuse box. The fuse box is melted some, But I don't think it has anything to stop the spark. The coil test good with a ohm meter.

I'm glad I don't have to pull the intake to get the cap off. I'll check that shortly.

I just bled the clutch and it works. The rest of the car is in pretty good shape. Had to order all the struts.

The car came with a new set of rubber seals for the doors. The guy said the current seals don't leak, but they are wrecked up a couple places. Do you think I should change them now? Is that a PITA? I need new tires, but that can wait till I have it running. (The ones he gave me aren't correct size)

[Maritime-elf]

Most of us have at least one or two melted fuses' this is not uncommon. Fuse box replacement is an all day long but common project. I would be surprised, if you don't already have an inline fuse for the receptacles which are melted.

[David T]

I would concentrate on getting the car running and driving before doing any of the more cosmetic things like door seals. Very doubtful the ignition module is bad, they have a very low failure rate. Typically it is something external to it like a wiring problem or a bad impulse coil. If you do not have the original Bosch coil, that *could* be the problem. Testing with an ohmmeter is not a very good test.

[Helirich]

I would concentrate on getting the car running and driving before doing any of the more cosmetic things like door seals. Very doubtful the ignition module is bad, they have a very low failure rate. Typically it is something external to it like a wiring problem or a bad impulse coil. If you do not have the original Bosch coil, that *could* be the problem. Testing with an ohmmeter is not a very good test.

I do have a Bosch coil. If it is original, I wouldn't be surprised after 40 years, but it did test OK. Not sure if that's a good test or not. I read that the module doesn't fail very much, but I don't mind having one "in stock" if that's not the problem. Maybe I should get a coil to keep in stock.

[David T]

Really not worth stocking up on parts that have a low failure rate. Better to stock parts that are known to fail like relays, fuses, switches, fuel pump, shift pivot bolt, filters, struts, etc. Most people would rather just order stuff as they need it. If you need it really bad you can always get overnight shipping. Or, when you do need stuff, add some extra things to the order to save a little on shipping. You can always use some extra filters or a bulb or two. Like the ones in the headlight and hazard switch. Or maybe some manuals or an extra key.

[Helirich]

Really not worth stocking up on parts that have a low failure rate. Better to stock parts that are known to fail like relays, fuses, switches, fuel pump, shift pivot bolt, filters, struts, etc. Most people would rather just order stuff as they need it. If you need it really bad you can always get overnight shipping. Or, when you do need stuff, add some extra things to the order to save a little on shipping. You can always use some extra filters or a bulb or two. Like the ones in the headlight and hazard switch. Or maybe some manuals or an extra key.

My thought is I don't mind stocking stuff that stops the car. If a strut gives out, I can hold the trunk open. (And wait till one arrives) But if I'm driving through North Carolina and the coil fails, it would be nice to pull one out of the trunk. (Even if I have to hold the trunk open while I get it, lol) I will certainly have fuses and relays with me. (Although not many of those will shut the car down.)

Is there a thread on here that lists items to carry for emergencies on this car. I have a 30 year old Bronco and a 48 year old Volkswagen. I would not hesitate to drive either of them cross country. (I have a stash of parts that can fail and stop the car in each of them.)

[Rich]

Yes, there are two such threads: One thread is mainly about parts (http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?1722) and the other thread is mainly about tools and supplies (http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?2959).


Is there a thread on here that lists items to carry for emergencies on this car. I have a 30 year old Bronco and a 48 year old Volkswagen. I would not hesitate to drive either of them cross country. (I have a stash of parts that can fail and stop the car in each of them.)

[Rich]

I do have a Bosch coil. If it is original, I wouldn't be surprised after 40 years, but it did test OK. Not sure if that's a good test or not. I read that the module doesn't fail very much, but I don't mind having one "in stock" if that's not the problem. Maybe I should get a coil to keep in stock.

Back to whether your coil test was done correctly or not, you may want to refer to the factory troubleshooting guide.

Images of the two pages you need (from Chart C1 - Ignition - Engine Will Not Start) are posted as the first two images LINKED here (http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?3142).


Factory Troubleshooting Charts - Engine Will Not Start

Photos of pp. 126-129 of the factory Technical Information Manual

Chart C1 will help you see whether you are getting enough spark and, if not, why not. You'll save time if you perform these 5 tests in order even if you already ran one or more of them.

The troubleshooting proceeds from spark test to voltage tests (battery and coil) to coil resistance test to dwell during cranking. Pay close attention to the required pass-fail criteria for each test. It's pretty easy to sort it out if you have the tools. You can test the ignition with the fuel system down.

[Helirich]

Thanks Rich,

I'll be working on it tomorrow. I might have that info. The guy who sold me the car gave me lots. Haven't gone through it all yet.

He gave me a bunch of old "Delorean World" magazines. Is this still published?

[CFI]

Thanks Rich,



He gave me a bunch of old "Delorean World" magazines. Is this still published?

Yes. It’s available from the DeLorean Owners Association.

[Helirich]

Yes. It’s available from the DeLorean Owners Association.

Thanks CFI,

Is that referring to Flight instructor? Asking as a CFII/ATP.

[Helirich]

Woo hoo, just started the engine!

Had to do some goofy shanangens to the louvers/hood to get at the distributor, so I couldn't run it long. The whole car is precariously up on jackstands. But after I get that stuff de-rigged I'll run it longer.

It sounded good for a few seconds.

[Helirich]

Yes, there are two such threads: One thread is mainly about parts (http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?1722) and the other thread is mainly about tools and supplies (http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?2959).

Thanks Rich, I missed this earlier. (It was at the bottom of the page)

[Helirich]

So working on it yesterday, I didn't get very far. It's starts every time and runs great for a few seconds. This tells me it's running out of fuel. My theory is when I turn the key on, the fuel pump brings the pressure up to the operating psi. Then when I start it, the psi bleeds down till it stalls. If I give it gas, it revs up just a bit before quitting. It runs longer if I just let it idle. There is no differnce if I jump the fuel pump to run continuously.

I see two possibilities.

1. The fuel pump, lines or filter can not deliver enough fuel.
2. There is a restriction after the pressure regulator in the fuel distributor.

#1 seems unlikely because the pump and filter are new and the lines have been cleaned out pretty good. I wonder if the accumulator could have had some junk in it that didn't get washed out. It could have dislodged and clogged the line. Today I'm going to pull the return line and run it in a catch can. If it can fill a gallon in less than 5 minutes, I think I can rule out #1.

#2 is much more problematic. I guess tear it apart or send it out for rebuild. I'm not that keen on rebuilding it myself. It's kind of irritating because it runs good for those few seconds. One thing I thought about is pulling the injectors and putting them in bottles. (Like you see in the utube videos) Then pumping acidtone through it followed by gas. Not sure if acidtone would hurt anything for a short time. Of course if I send it out, it doesn't matter.

Thoughts, recommendations?

[David T]

Pull an injector and see if it sprays any fuel when you run the fuel pump and depress the air sensor plate.

[Helirich]

Pull an injector and see if it sprays any fuel when you run the fuel pump and depress the air sensor plate.

Wouldn't it have to be spraying if it starts? Maybe one or two could be plugged, but most must be working. What would pulling an injector tell me?

[David T]

If it starts and runs for a couple of seconds and then dies it tells me it is starting on the Cold Start system. That doesn't rely on the fuel injectors, it is one injector and also doesn't require full system pressure to operate. Next step is to see if the fuel injectors are providing fuel. Just pull one and see.

[Helirich]

I didn't realize the cold start worked like that. I will try pulling an injector(s).

I tried the fuel flow test at the return. It pumps a gallon in about 2 minutes. Plenty for this car.

[Helirich]

Pull an injector and see if it sprays any fuel when you run the fuel pump and depress the air sensor plate.

The plot thickens.

OK, I pulled 5 injectors. They all sprayed. In fact, it sprayed even when the plate was not pushed down. This didn't make sense because it was running out of fuel. So I put the injectors back in and hit the key. Now it wouldn't start. I pushed the gas pedal about 3/4 and it started right up and revved. It ran as long as I revved it. When I let off the throttle, it quit. This is completely differnt than yesterday.

Here's what I think happened. I read a couple rebuild accounts and they mentioned a plunger on the side of the distributor. I believe it sets the pressure. Anyways, I pulled it and cleaned it up. There is an o-ring on it that the guy said he couldn't find to replace it. Well wouldn't you know, I have a giant assortment of O-rings and I didn't have a match either. So I installed the old one. Well it went in tight. After this issue today, I pulled it again. The O-ring was distroyed.

Now I need to find an O-ring that nobody has. At least, I'm hoping a new one might fix all. (Fingers crossed)

[Michael]

The plot thickens.



Now I need to find an O-ring that nobody has. At least, I'm hoping a new one might fix all. (Fingers crossed)

PPR O-ring kits are readily available at many vendors for under 10 bucks.

[Helirich]

PPR O-ring kits are readily available at many vendors for under 10 bucks.

What is PPR? As I mentioned, I have a giant O-ring assortment box. It's the same one I see in most venders places.

[Michael]

What is PPR? As I mentioned, I have a giant O-ring assortment box. It's the same one I see in most venders places.

Primary pressure regulator (the plunger on the side of the fuel distributor). If the o-rings in your box are off sized just a little bit, you are just asking for problems. The kit includes 2 o rings and a copper seal. We are not sealing a window washer pump here, we are working on the heart of a very complex and finicky fuel system. Spend 10 bucks, get the right ones and be done with it.

https://deloreanindustries.com/1-2-ppr-o-ring-kit-fuel-distributor/

[Helirich]

Primary pressure regulator (the plunger on the side of the fuel distributor). If the o-rings in your box are off sized just a little bit, you are just asking for problems. The kit includes 2 o rings and a copper seal. We are not sealing a window washer pump here, we are working on the heart of a very complex and finicky fuel system. Spend 10 bucks, get the right ones and be done with it.

https://deloreanindustries.com/1-2-ppr-o-ring-kit-fuel-distributor/

It might look like a rocket, but it's not rocket science. It's just an O-ring. Stupid the engineers decide to use an off size for what reason? Ten bucks doesn't bother me, but I doubt they have that kit in stock at the zone.

[Michael]

It might look like a rocket, but it's not rocket science. It's just an O-ring. Stupid the engineers decide to use an off size for what reason? Ten bucks doesn't bother me, but I doubt they have that kit in stock at the zone.

I never said or even implied the orings were at Autozone. Vendors means DeLorean vendors. Delorean Performance, PJ Grady, DMC, DeLoreango, etc.

I even gave you a link to one. Do what you want. This endeth my involvement in this thread.

[Helirich]

I never said or even implied the orings were at Autozone. Vendors means DeLorean vendors. Delorean Performance, PJ Grady, DMC, DeLoreango, etc.

I even gave you a link to one. Do what you want. This endeth my involvement in this thread.

No, you implied I would use an off size O-ring "asking for problems" because I was too cheap to buy the right one.

Thanks for the link.