Tank varnish

[Helirich]

I thought I would give my experince on fuel system and some thoughts.

I pulled my pump and it and the tank were full of crud. I cleaned the tank useing fresh gas. This works, but not very good. The instructions with the new pump said to use acidtone. I can tell you, it works MUCH better! I installed the new pump, but before hooking it to the fuel lines I wanted to clean them.

I removed the filter at the back of the car and ran about a 1/2 gallon of acidtone throughfrom the front. I just used a funnel in front and a bucket in back to catch it. I followed this with a gallon of fresh gas. (I didn't want acid residue in the line) There was very little crud, if any, in the line. I removed the line going from the filter to the injection pump and cleaned that also. I noticed that line was bone dry. I also noticed the filter would only dump fuel out of the inlet end. (Nothing out of the outlet) So I thought I would investigate.

I cut the filter at the outlet end.

65598

I'm having a problem put pics on here. If this works, you can see the outlet end of the filter is bone dry. You can also see the fine screen on the filter. (All dry)

I pulled the screen out and found rolled up paper. This paper was soaking wet with gas.

65599

Not sure if this paper is swelled from water/gas, but it was tight in the canister. I pulled it all out and it didn't seem to have any crud in it.

While the tank was full of junk and the pickup sock was basically disintegrated, I don't think anything made it past the filter. So I don't believe that trying to start a long sitting car is dangerous to your injection system. Now, let me be clear, there very well may be varnish in my injection system from gas that was sitting there as long as the tank gas, but it didn't come from the tank.

In any case, I have electrical issues, so I can't start the engine right now. But I'll let you know if the fuel distributor needs rebuilt once I get that sorted.

[Riley88]

Good luck man, keep this thread updated!

[dmcman73]

I thought I would give my experince on fuel system and some thoughts.

I pulled my pump and it and the tank were full of crud. I cleaned the tank useing fresh gas. This works, but not very good. The instructions with the new pump said to use acidtone. I can tell you, it works MUCH better! I installed the new pump, but before hooking it to the fuel lines I wanted to clean them.

I removed the filter at the back of the car and ran about a 1/2 gallon of acidtone throughfrom the front. I just used a funnel in front and a bucket in back to catch it. I followed this with a gallon of fresh gas. (I didn't want acid residue in the line) There was very little crud, if any, in the line. I removed the line going from the filter to the injection pump and cleaned that also. I noticed that line was bone dry. I also noticed the filter would only dump fuel out of the inlet end. (Nothing out of the outlet) So I thought I would investigate.

I cut the filter at the outlet end.

65598

I'm having a problem put pics on here. If this works, you can see the outlet end of the filter is bone dry. You can also see the fine screen on the filter. (All dry)

I pulled the screen out and found rolled up paper. This paper was soaking wet with gas.

65599

Not sure if this paper is swelled from water/gas, but it was tight in the canister. I pulled it all out and it didn't seem to have any crud in it.

While the tank was full of junk and the pickup sock was basically disintegrated, I don't think anything made it past the filter. So I don't believe that trying to start a long sitting car is dangerous to your injection system. Now, let me be clear, there very well may be varnish in my injection system from gas that was sitting there as long as the tank gas, but it didn't come from the tank.

In any case, I have electrical issues, so I can't start the engine right now. But I'll let you know if the fuel distributor needs rebuilt once I get that sorted.

I did the same exact thing many months ago and posted that procedure on one of the Facebook Delorean groups. As long as you do not run acetone through any of the components like the fuel distributor, it will clean the steel lines right out. Flushing it with gas afterwards ensures that the acetone is properly flushed out.

You can use a cheap hand operated fuel pump to push the acetone through the steel lines, it works better as the pressure from it will loosen any crud in there better.

[Helirich]

I did the same exact thing many months ago and posted that procedure on one of the Facebook Delorean groups. As long as you do not run acetone through any of the components like the fuel distributor, it will clean the steel lines right out. Flushing it with gas afterwards ensures that the acetone is properly flushed out.

You can use a cheap hand operated fuel pump to push the acetone through the steel lines, it works better as the pressure from it will loosen any crud in there better.

So did you have to rebuild the fuel distributor?

[cdrusn]

You didn't say how long it had been since you ran the car and filled it with fresh gas. I recently was changing fuel hoses as maintenance and it had been several years since I ran through the gas. So before changing the hose I used the fuel pump to put the discharge into a gas can. It was green and smelled bad but not varnish. Then I put
fresh gas and stabil and ran the car for awhile. I hope to find a gas station that sells gas without ethanol to fill up this summer.

[Rich]

For the fuel varnish recovery questions -
See this detailed How-To for dealing with a DeLorean's fuel system after the car has been dormant too long:

dmctalk.org....How-To-Clean-out-fuel-tank-and-flush-fuel-system-BEFORE-you-try-to-start-the-car (http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?637-How-To-Clean-out-fuel-tank-and-flush-fuel-system-BEFORE-you-try-to-start-the-car)

It covers lots of tips in the Tank Varnish thread plus lots more.

Over 68,000 views of this 2011 post! Thanks to Tom Tait for posting it.

[Helirich]

For the fuel varnish recovery questions -
See this detailed How-To for dealing with a DeLorean's fuel system after the car has been dormant too long:

dmctalk.org....How-To-Clean-out-fuel-tank-and-flush-fuel-system-BEFORE-you-try-to-start-the-car (http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?637-How-To-Clean-out-fuel-tank-and-flush-fuel-system-BEFORE-you-try-to-start-the-car)

It covers lots of tips in the Tank Varnish thread plus lots more.

Over 68,000 views of this 2011 post! Thanks to Tom Tait for posting it.

Yea, I read that one. I disagree with a couple things.

1. He perpetuates the myth that the tank crud will be pumped through the filter to the fuel distributor.

2. I don't like the idea of pumping acid through an old filter even if he bypasses the distributor. He does say to change the filter later, but why send filter material through the lines? If the filter is not distroyed by the acid, it might be OK, but has this been tested? In my case, I don't think anything was going through the filter unless it "ate" it's way through.

[David T]

It's not acid, it is Acetone. It is a solvent, it is not an acid. It does not have to be neutralized, it gets diluted. Either method is OK.

[Helirich]

It's not acid, it is Acetone. It is a solvent, it is not an acid. It does not have to be neutralized, it gets diluted. Either method is OK.

Ha-ha, I guess I never read the can. So do you suppose I could run it straight as a fuel for a few minutes to clean out the fuel distributor? I wonder how it would run the engine as compared to gas? I wonder if "seafoam" is made of it?

[David T]

Don't try running on Acetone. Too flammable. Once you can get the motor running and the car driving, fill up the tank and pour in a can of Techron fuel system cleaner. Modern fuels have cleaners added so if you use the car regularly they will keep the system clean. If the injectors are not spraying good patterns and/or they are not all opening and closing at near the same pressures, they should all be removed and cleaned and tested. If the injector seals are hard and not sealing well they should be replaced at that time.

[dmcman73]

So did you have to rebuild the fuel distributor?

I took the distributor off the car and did the following WITHOUT opening the two halves.

1. I carefully removed the plunger, cleaned it and set it to the side wrapped in a rag
2. Pulled the fuel pressure regulator out and took that apart, cleaned it an replaced the rubber orings with new ones from DeloreanGO
3. I removed each small screen from the output ports at the top of the distributor (the ports going to each injector) and replaced them with new ones from DeloreanGO. The screens come out by threading a machine screw into the tops of them and then pulling them out. They are made of plastic and are pressed in.
4. I cleaned the chamber where the plunger goes into the distributor and I also cleaned out the chamber where the pressure regulator goes into.
5. Prior to installing the new screens into the output ports, you could connect everything back to the car and run the fuel pump to flush the distributor. Just connect the injector hoses the the distributor, without the injectors, place each hose into a secured large fuel proof container and flush new gas through it. Take the hoses off, drive the new screens in and you're all set. If your distributor isn't in really bad shape, it should come back to life. I had a lot of varnish in my lines and just doing that cleaned everything up and my engine fires right up perfectly. Just make sure you don't run acetone or carb cleaner through the distributor or you'll rot the orings located inside of it warranting a full rebuild.

If you notice that fuel isn't coming out of any of the injector lines when you're flushing it, you may have a larger clog. You can keep trying to flush it and if it doesn't work, send it out for a rebuild.

When I reassembled everything, I applied a very light coat of Marvels mystery oil to the orings to lubricate them for the installation.

[dmcman73]

Ha-ha, I guess I never read the can. So do you suppose I could run it straight as a fuel for a few minutes to clean out the fuel distributor? I wonder how it would run the engine as compared to gas? I wonder if "seafoam" is made of it?

Do not run acetone through the distributor, there are rubber orings in there that it will deteriorate. Acetone is NOT rubber friendly.

[Helirich]

Do not run acetone through the distributor, there are rubber orings in there that it will deteriorate. Acetone is NOT rubber friendly.

I just had a long discussion about running acetone mix in fuel with my brother. He mentioned the issue with rubber. He said he has run a beer mug of acetone to a tank of gas and it cleaned it good. He said there's lots of U tube videos on the subject. Most are to do with mpg, not cleaning out the injectors or fuel system. I'm not very keen on the idea right now. I got the car running alittle better now. I might just run a double dose of some injector cleaning solution and see how it goes.

[dmcman73]

I just had a long discussion about running acetone mix in fuel with my brother. He mentioned the issue with rubber. He said he has run a beer mug of acetone to a tank of gas and it cleaned it good. He said there's lots of U tube videos on the subject. Most are to do with mpg, not cleaning out the injectors or fuel system. I'm not very keen on the idea right now. I got the car running alittle better now. I might just run a double dose of some injector cleaning solution and see how it goes.

Don't forget, you're dealing with a 40 year old car when there was to ethanol in the gas mix so all that rubber starts to break down. You don't want to throw acetone in the mix.

[SS Spoiler]

I've heard you can put a loose rag in the
tank are blow air into it, and the rag will
flutter around cleaning it. Adding a solvent
to the rag will help. Never tried it but it
sounds logical....

[David T]

The way I do it is to remove what liquid is still in the tank and dispose of it properly. Carefully remove all of the parts inside taking care not to break the stud loose if possible (sometimes they get so rusted up you can't help it). Scoop out whatever solid dirt remains on the bottom of the tank. Finally wipe the inside (mainly the bottom) of the tank with a rag socked in Acetone. You can also wipe the parts you removed with Acetone but you usually replace the suction hose, the fuel pump, the inner and outer boots, and the 2 fuel lines. Maybe even the wire and plug to the fuel pump. Or you just replace the whole mess with the new style fuel pump assembly. Be very careful because the old fuel is flammable and so is the Acetone. Use gloves, a respirator, eye protection, and plenty of ventilation. Best to do it outside, not in the garage so you don't stick up the house. I also keep a fire extinguisher nearby just in case. Taking the fuel tank out does not make it any easier. Remove the fuel sender unit and disassemble and clean it too unless you are using the new style pump assembly with a sender in it. Acetone works well but it is dangerous so be careful.

[Rich]

+1 on the safety and disposal notes David T shares regarding acetone.

I've worked with it professionally for non-automotive cleanup in a lab environment. Here is a generic acetone Safety Data Sheet for reference (https://www.labchem.com/tools/msds/msds/LC10420.pdf).

Pay close attention to Sec. 8.3 regarding PPE. Absolutely do not use disposable nitrile or latex gloves with acetone. It penetrates them and then they dissolve. Good (reusable) butyl rubber or neoprene gloves are called for with this solvent. Think about getting ones with integrated coated sleeves for reaching further into the tank. McMaster-Carr sells them if you can't get them locally.

Sec. 13 of the SDS tells how to dispose of acetone and dirty rags/towels. Call your local residential waste hauler for advice - they should know how to handle acetone waste correctly or point you to whoever does.


.....Be very careful because the old fuel is flammable and so is the Acetone. Use gloves, a respirator, eye protection, and plenty of ventilation. Best to do it outside, not in the garage so you don't stick up the house. I also keep a fire extinguisher nearby just in case......Acetone works well but it is dangerous so be careful.

[Bitsyncmaster]

You won't be able to buy acetone in California.

[mark w]

You won't be able to buy acetone in California.

You can buy Acetone no problem but no longer Denatured Alcohol (which was great for cleaning up brake fluid).

Mark

[Helirich]

I've heard you can put a loose rag in the
tank are blow air into it, and the rag will
flutter around cleaning it. Adding a solvent
to the rag will help. Never tried it but it
sounds logical....

I'd have to see that. Ha-ha.

I just did it like David T.

I might try DMCman's distributor cleaning method. Right now I'm waiting for some parts.

[David T]

I used nitrile and double-gloved but they do swell up and rip so you got to be quick. Rubber gloves are so bulky it is difficult to do anything with them and even fit them in through the hole. You have to do the job one-handed anyway. As for disposal of the Acetone soaked rags, I just let them evaporate and once dry you can throw them in the trash. It's the stale gas that is the real problem to get rid of. If you have an old car you can mix it with fresh gas and just burn it up as you drive. If the old gas is really nasty and/or you don't want to use it, you can take it to a gas station and ask them if they will take it. Some will take it for free and some charge.