Brake job questions

[TTait]

I'm part way through a brake job (caliper rebuild, pads etc...) and have a couple questions...

The front rotors look great, smooth, no grooves, no signs of warping. Can I remove the front rotors for a light resurface without removing the entire hub assembly? I know if I pull it I'm going to end up separating the front bearing. Any tips on this?

Same question for the rears I guess...

Another issue with the rears, which are still on the car. In order to remove the front caliper mounting bolts I had to use an impact wrench, even then it took about 45 seconds of use to loosen a couple of the bolts... On the rears there is 0 chance of getting the impact wrench onto those bolts. I gave up just looking at it. Help...

Tom

[Cory W]

I'm part way through a brake job (caliper rebuild, pads etc...) and have a couple questions...

The front rotors look great, smooth, no grooves, no signs of warping. Can I remove the front rotors for a light resurface without removing the entire hub assembly? I know if I pull it I'm going to end up separating the front bearing. Any tips on this?


Can you remove the rear spindle nut and separate the spindle from the steering knuckle? That's the only way around it.



Same question for the rears I guess...


I've never touched my rear brakes yet, so unsure personally.



Another issue with the rears, which are still on the car. In order to remove the front caliper mounting bolts I had to use an impact wrench, even then it took about 45 seconds of use to loosen a couple of the bolts... On the rears there is 0 chance of getting the impact wrench onto those bolts. I gave up just looking at it. Help...


Any idea if anyone used loctite on them in the past, or if they're just being difficult?

I don't have an impact wrench. I have used a bottle jack, the vehicle's weight, and wrench, though. (Proceed with caution, YMMV, etc) If you're worried about breaking anything, spray with the penetrant of your choice well in advance (I use a 50/50 Acetone-ATF mix)

[TTait]

Can you remove the rear spindle nut and separate the spindle from the steering knuckle? That's the only way around it.



I've never touched my rear brakes yet, so unsure personally.



Any idea if anyone used loctite on them in the past, or if they're just being difficult?

I don't have an impact wrench. I have used a bottle jack, the vehicle's weight, and wrench, though. (Proceed with caution, YMMV, etc) If you're worried about breaking anything, spray with the penetrant of your choice well in advance (I use a 50/50 Acetone-ATF mix)

Spindle nut is interesting = I can try that...

No sign of loctite on the fronts - just good Irish enthusiasm and 30 years of compounded interest.

I put some penetrant on the rears, but with the top nut especially It looks like I can maybe get a 10" wrench on it from above, no socket and not much chance of getting it a handle horizontal to attack it with a jack. It cant be as tough as I'm expecting it to be, can it?

I'm considering bailing on the rears, the fronts were actually in pretty good shape.

[sean]

The rear rotors come off a lot easier than the fronts. If the caliper is already off then you just need to remove the screw that holds the adapter plate in place and pull the rotor off.

[Chris4099]

The front rotors look great, smooth, no grooves, no signs of warping. Can I remove the front rotors for a light resurface without removing the entire hub assembly? I know if I pull it I'm going to end up separating the front bearing. Any tips on this?

If you don't want to risk damaging the bearings, you can call around different brake shops to see if they can turn rotors on the car. The option I went with is I bought the refurbished hubs from specialtauto.com. They come with new bearings already pressed in. So I just yanked the old ones off and put the refurbs (with new rotors) on.


Another issue with the rears, which are still on the car. In order to remove the front caliper mounting bolts I had to use an impact wrench, even then it took about 45 seconds of use to loosen a couple of the bolts... On the rears there is 0 chance of getting the impact wrench onto those bolts. I gave up just looking at it. Help...

To get the calipers off, I just used basic sockets and extensions. An impact socket would be too thick, but a standard thin walled socket will reach those bolts. In my case, I used a few extensions and a breaker bar to get them off. If you get the bar at the right angle, you should be able to apply more then enough torque to break the bolt loose. The only real issue I had was the socket would get stuck against the hub carrier while backing the bolt out. Going to a deep socket prevented that issue.

[sean]

To get the calipers off, I just used basic sockets and extensions. An impact socket would be too thick, but a standard thin walled socket will reach those bolts. In my case, I used a few extensions and a breaker bar to get them off. If you get the bar at the right angle, you should be able to apply more then enough torque to break the bolt loose. The only real issue I had was the socket would get stuck against the hub carrier while backing the bolt out. Going to a deep socket prevented that issue.

Sorry I didnt read the original question better but hmm is right on. 16mm short socket on a swivel extension(s) plus a little cheater bar will loosen those bolts up. For the one that is really tucked away in there once you get about 3/4 the way out you will want to make sure you get the socket backed out abut so it does not strike the hub carrier.

[stevedmc]

A floor jack can work miracles for stuck bolts. Just put your socket wrench on the bolt, put your jack under the wrench, and jack away. This method uses the weight of the car to loosen the bolt.

I remember doing this for some stuck caliper bolts and it works like a charm.

[TTait]

Sorry I didnt read the original question better but hmm is right on. 16mm short socket on a swivel extension(s) plus a little cheater bar will loosen those bolts up. For the one that is really tucked away in there once you get about 3/4 the way out you will want to make sure you get the socket backed out abut so it does not strike the hub carrier.

I'll try it tonight - I've just been soaking them so far but it sure looks like the top one sure looks like cramped quarters... Hope I can find a position to get may jack on it too. since you guys have gotten in there I guess I'm just overly worried.

Almost done with rebuilding the fronts - wow - easier than I thought. I feel silly now for paying so much to trade for rebuilt ones on my wife's D... If I wasn't painting them I'd have had them done in 20 minutes each...

[TTait]

So here was my hangup on the rear caliper bolts; from the angle i was looking at everything I couldn't see that there were access holes opposite the bolts. Well, that makes life easier doesn't it?

First rear caliper off - and the kids are whining they want to eat dinner - sheesh.

Thanks for your help guys, I would have tried to get the bolts out using a wrench from above.

Onward and upward...

Tom

[TTait]

The rear rotors come off a lot easier than the fronts. If the caliper is already off then you just need to remove the screw that holds the adapter plate in place and pull the rotor off.
,,, as long as the phillips heads aren't rusted out. (sigh)

I'll go to Sears in the AM and buy an impact style screwdriver. In the meantime, they are soaking.

failing that hail mary, all 4 rotors are smooth as glass and not warped - I hate to say it, but they may not get turned. Someday I'll let DMCCA turn them for me - they have all the bearings and replacement screws right there...

The fronts are done and the rears are off, at least I'm making some progress.

[sean]

,,, as long as the phillips heads aren't rusted out. (sigh)
.

Not uncommon. Drill the head off of the screw so you can take the rotor off then you'll have some good access to getting your favorite penetrating oil on the bolt. Little time, maybe some heat, and a pair of vice grips should help get the bolt out.

[TTait]

I wasn't sure there would be enough exposed shaft if I did that.. Thanks. Hope I can find the screw locally.

[TTait]

Used an impact screwdriver and the screws came out intact. No further damage.

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00947641000P?prdNo=8&blockNo=8&blockType=G8

It probably popped them loose in 1 or 2 whacks, but I kept hitting it anyway as the movement was imperceptible. If someone tries this in the future, give it 5 good wacks and then see if the screw turns, then repeat.

i still need to replace the screws, but life is easier with them out in one piece.

[sean]

Used an impact screwdriver and the screws came out intact. No further damage.


Great news! I was under the impression the screw head was stripped. Those impact drivers do work great.

[DMCMW Dave]

FWIW the screw on the brake rotor is only there to hold things in place on the assembly line. You can take the screw out/cut it off/drill it etc. and throw it away and you'll never know the difference. Once the wheel (even the caliper) is on, the brake rotor isn't going anywhere. When (if) you put it back in, use anti-sieze on it and don't go crazy tightening it.

[TTait]

The phillips heads were mangled, but still recognizable. Whoever messed with them last was kind enough to not totally round them out.

Nice to know they are superfluous.


Next question - the read pad shims have a index finger shaped dip in them, doe sit matter if this is positioned toward the front or rear of the car? I'm guessing it doesn't matter and this is a remnant from a cross application. Thanks guys.

Tom

[DMCMW Dave]

Next question - the read pad shims have a index finger shaped dip in them, doe sit matter if this is positioned toward the front or rear of the car? I'm guessing it doesn't matter and this is a remnant from a cross application. Thanks guys.

Tom

What rear pad shims?

[ramblinmike]

What rear pad shims?

http://www.specialtauto.com/delorean-parts/images/brake-caliper-rear-pad-shim.jpg