Let's talk modern replacement stereo head units

[joshg]

I'm starting my research on modern replacement head units... there are some good old threads here, but the tech changes each year so thought I'd ask for latest opinions.

Obviously, I'm not a purist and my car won't ever be a concourse showpiece. I'd like a good new head unit.

Curious what units people have installed, and how they made their decision?

I'm thinking a motorized pop-out screen unit, assuming the depth is there in the dash since these units are deep... ideally with Apple Car Play and a good modern UI with access to B/T, streaming services like Spotify. I don't see caring about playing DVDs or anything, but WOULD want video in for reverse cameras and auto switching to the cam when transmission goes into reverse. They all probably come with it, but i don't care about MP3 storage or playback. If it has carPlay, it doesn't need built in apps for streaming or nav.

I'm somewhat concerned about the screen blocking the vents when up, but I have seen several installs where the location of the vents and the head unit are swapped so that the screen is higher and doesn't block the vents. Opinions on how hard that swap is and if it's hard to reroute HVAC ducts and wiring.

Thoughts? Specific unit recommendations? Pics?

Thanks!

[CFI]

If you live in a warm climate, relocating the air vents if you install a flip up screen is a must. The majority of air flow when the AC is on is from those vents.

[jangell]

I did this a couple years ago, and then put a larger radio in more recently (same brand, so it plugged into the same harness). Both units have (one wired, one wireless) CarPlay, which is the main reason I wanted to do it.

The first unit was a traditional double-DIN. Air vents were a problem, so I did what others have done and relocated them to the knee pads, which wasn't terribly difficult. A bigger problem was that the radio was too deep and hit the air distributor box that the old center vents connected to. I built a new box out of cardboard, hot glue, and some duct adaptors, then fiberglassed the whole thing (this was my first fiberglassing project, and it was pretty easy). I had a few weeks of fiberglass smell coming out of the vents, but it worked great.

Most of the wires you need will already be there for the old radio, and you "just" have to connect the old wires to the new harness. You may also have to run a wire to the hand park or start inhibit relay, or get a bypass kit for $10 so you can use certain features that they don't want you to do while driving, which includes things like pairing Bluetooth devices and other basic setup.

I'd also suggest getting a backup camera kit and installing that at the same time. It's really nice to have, and they're pretty cheap (like $30).

Finally, I put a capacitor on the accessory power wire to the radio. This acts as a 5 second battery that charges basically instantly. The reason for this is that it takes about 10 seconds for these head units to start up, and when you're cranking it cuts power to the radio. If you have a car that can take a few tries to start, it means that your radio isn't going to be ready until after your car is running. The capacitor lets the radio continue to have power while cranking, and without drawing precious starter power while it does so.

Here's my writeup on it, with lots of pictures: http://www.tmproductions.com/repairs-and-maintenance-blog/2018/3/2/double-din-radio-install


The second unit I installed has a bigger screen and wireless CarPlay (I highly recommend wireless CarPlay over wired, just for the convenience). Since it's a Pioneer again, it uses the same harness, and just plugged in. The screen is separate from the main unit in this one, which wound up being important since it allowed me to mount the unit in the center stack first, reassemble the trim, and install the screen on top afterward. I couldn't get a screwdriver in for the stock mounts, so I just used some strong magnets, plus some aluminum brackets that align the screen to the main unit body. It sticks out in front of the trim, overhanging the climate controls, but it's not in the way of anything. This setup probably isn't for most people, though.

The main unit is a single-DIN height, so it can probably fit where the old radio was. The screen can be positioned in an arbitrary location, although you'll have to buy a $100 extension cable to move it an appreciable distance from the main unit. This means that if you want to avoid the air vents, you could mount the screen above them or attached to the passenger kneepad or something. Note that this radio is notably more expensive than integrated units for reasons I don't really understand.

Here's the writeup on that, which is based on the first install: http://www.tmproductions.com/repairs-and-maintenance-blog/2021/3/13/radio-upgrade-from-double-din-to-remote-screen


Also, be aware that you'll likely have to cut up your center stack to fit a new radio. If you haven't modified yours yet, you might want to buy one of the double-DIN ones from DeLorean, as I don't believe original ones are available anymore. Mine was already cut up, so that ship had sailed by the time I did the bigger radio.

I know some people have swapped the locations of the center air vents and radio so that they can do a flip-up screen. If you do that, you'll likely be making a new air distributor box, or else modifying the original. It's probably a similar amount of work to relocating the vents to the knee pads, but it will have a more original look.

As for the head units themselves, I only have experience with Pioneer at the moment. The UI is sluggish, but once you're in CarPlay it's nice and fast. I don't know why the main UI in modern electronics like this isn't snappier, especially considering how much this thing costs. But it does the job, so I'm happy.

-- Joe

[FABombjoy]

There are lots of options for sure, only limited by creativity
Here's a few pics from my recent upgrades during the build process:
https://imgur.com/a/rCe7lBg

-Pioneer somethingsomething-2550 head unit w/ remote display in ABS 3D printed bracket, using the blank canvas on top of the center console. The main body is in the storage box behind the driver's seat.

-Hybrid Audio 6.5" in fiberglass kickpods (no drill / no permanent mods)
-Hybrid Audio 2.7" / 1" mid/tweeter in ABS 3D printed dash mounted pods (no drill / no permanent mods)
-MB Quart shallow mount sub, soon to be replaced w/ a JL Audio 13TW5V2

-Alpine X-A70F amp for spare-tire sub & woofers
-Alpine PXE-0850S DSP + 25w x 4 amp for mids & tweeters
-PXE volume control in ABS 3D printed holder, replaces the dash rheostat (no drill / no permanent mods)

I'm usually questioned by other owners about losing the spare tire to a subwoofer. It's 100% worth it for amazing sound.
You can actually remove the cover to the jack storage & the tire can sit in the trunk without issue. For long trips, I just bungee cord it to the shock tower brace.

[uhhair]

So I am actually doing a similar install right now. I can tell you my biggest challenge has been finding a single DIN unit that still has a flip-out screen. All of the units that used to have this feature, in addition to having Carplay, have been discontinued from what I can tell. I ended up finding a refurbished unit so we will see how it goes. I know that the screen will block the vents when it is out, but I only really use the screen for navigation and I really don't want to go through the hassle of relocating or custom fitting a screen just for part-time map usage. If I find that I end up really liking the screen and the vent blockage is an issue I will most likely replace the unit with a modular style as previously referenced. This solution seems like a great one, and adds the functionality of wireless carplay which is a great addition. However, if you are more like me and just want a flip-out screen for part-time use I would get searching, as I had a very difficult time finding a good unit and I think they are all going the way of the dinosaur. If you come across something I didn't, please let me know. Best of luck!

[jangell]

FABombjoy's post reminded me that I 3D printed a simple carrier for a cheap Windows tablet while I was messing with tuning MegaSquirt. It slipped under the back (front?) of the center stack trip and clamped onto the tablet screen. It's one of the first things I printed so it's a bit rough and slightly fragile, but it got the job done, and didn't require any modifications to the trim. Something like that could probably be repurposed to hold the display for a head unit that has a remote screen.

It seems I never took a picture of it in the car (I only install it when tuning), but here's some of it on the bench. The flat base slides under the center console trim from the windshield side.

6587265873

-- Joe

[MrChocky]

I didn't see this mentioned here, but a reminder that you need to split the speaker grounds with modern headsets, or it'll sound rubbish.

[Josh]

https://i.imgur.com/lInkPMA.jpg?1

[joshg]

I did this a couple years ago, and then put a larger radio in more recently (same brand, so it plugged into the same harness). Both units have (one wired, one wireless) CarPlay, which is the main reason I wanted to do it.

The first unit was a traditional double-DIN. Air vents were a problem, so I did what others have done and relocated them to the knee pads, which wasn't terribly difficult. A bigger problem was that the radio was too deep and hit the air distributor box that the old center vents connected to. I built a new box out of cardboard, hot glue, and some duct adaptors, then fiberglassed the whole thing (this was my first fiberglassing project, and it was pretty easy). I had a few weeks of fiberglass smell coming out of the vents, but it worked great.

Most of the wires you need will already be there for the old radio, and you "just" have to connect the old wires to the new harness. You may also have to run a wire to the hand park or start inhibit relay, or get a bypass kit for $10 so you can use certain features that they don't want you to do while driving, which includes things like pairing Bluetooth devices and other basic setup.

I'd also suggest getting a backup camera kit and installing that at the same time. It's really nice to have, and they're pretty cheap (like $30).

Finally, I put a capacitor on the accessory power wire to the radio. This acts as a 5 second battery that charges basically instantly. The reason for this is that it takes about 10 seconds for these head units to start up, and when you're cranking it cuts power to the radio. If you have a car that can take a few tries to start, it means that your radio isn't going to be ready until after your car is running. The capacitor lets the radio continue to have power while cranking, and without drawing precious starter power while it does so.

Here's my writeup on it, with lots of pictures: http://www.tmproductions.com/repairs-and-maintenance-blog/2018/3/2/double-din-radio-install


The second unit I installed has a bigger screen and wireless CarPlay (I highly recommend wireless CarPlay over wired, just for the convenience). Since it's a Pioneer again, it uses the same harness, and just plugged in. The screen is separate from the main unit in this one, which wound up being important since it allowed me to mount the unit in the center stack first, reassemble the trim, and install the screen on top afterward. I couldn't get a screwdriver in for the stock mounts, so I just used some strong magnets, plus some aluminum brackets that align the screen to the main unit body. It sticks out in front of the trim, overhanging the climate controls, but it's not in the way of anything. This setup probably isn't for most people, though.

The main unit is a single-DIN height, so it can probably fit where the old radio was. The screen can be positioned in an arbitrary location, although you'll have to buy a $100 extension cable to move it an appreciable distance from the main unit. This means that if you want to avoid the air vents, you could mount the screen above them or attached to the passenger kneepad or something. Note that this radio is notably more expensive than integrated units for reasons I don't really understand.

Here's the writeup on that, which is based on the first install: http://www.tmproductions.com/repairs-and-maintenance-blog/2021/3/13/radio-upgrade-from-double-din-to-remote-screen


Also, be aware that you'll likely have to cut up your center stack to fit a new radio. If you haven't modified yours yet, you might want to buy one of the double-DIN ones from DeLorean, as I don't believe original ones are available anymore. Mine was already cut up, so that ship had sailed by the time I did the bigger radio.

I know some people have swapped the locations of the center air vents and radio so that they can do a flip-up screen. If you do that, you'll likely be making a new air distributor box, or else modifying the original. It's probably a similar amount of work to relocating the vents to the knee pads, but it will have a more original look.

As for the head units themselves, I only have experience with Pioneer at the moment. The UI is sluggish, but once you're in CarPlay it's nice and fast. I don't know why the main UI in modern electronics like this isn't snappier, especially considering how much this thing costs. But it does the job, so I'm happy.

-- Joe
What an amazing writeup here, and then on your blog posts! Very helpful and informative. sounds like i should go for the remote unit, possibly mounted behind the driver's seat with a remote screen like you did. Thanks for all the details!

[joshg]

So I am actually doing a similar install right now. I can tell you my biggest challenge has been finding a single DIN unit that still has a flip-out screen. All of the units that used to have this feature, in addition to having Carplay, have been discontinued from what I can tell. I ended up finding a refurbished unit so we will see how it goes. I know that the screen will block the vents when it is out, but I only really use the screen for navigation and I really don't want to go through the hassle of relocating or custom fitting a screen just for part-time map usage. If I find that I end up really liking the screen and the vent blockage is an issue I will most likely replace the unit with a modular style as previously referenced. This solution seems like a great one, and adds the functionality of wireless carplay which is a great addition. However, if you are more like me and just want a flip-out screen for part-time use I would get searching, as I had a very difficult time finding a good unit and I think they are all going the way of the dinosaur. If you come across something I didn't, please let me know. Best of luck!

Thanks. i had assumed there would be multiple choices for pop-out screen head units... but it's been years since I checked. Wanted a new one with wireless carplay. Sounds like i need to rethink and go for the remote screen approach. Thanks for the info...

[joshg]

There are lots of options for sure, only limited by creativity
Here's a few pics from my recent upgrades during the build process:
https://imgur.com/a/rCe7lBg

-Pioneer somethingsomething-2550 head unit w/ remote display in ABS 3D printed bracket, using the blank canvas on top of the center console. The main body is in the storage box behind the driver's seat.

-Hybrid Audio 6.5" in fiberglass kickpods (no drill / no permanent mods)
-Hybrid Audio 2.7" / 1" mid/tweeter in ABS 3D printed dash mounted pods (no drill / no permanent mods)
-MB Quart shallow mount sub, soon to be replaced w/ a JL Audio 13TW5V2

-Alpine X-A70F amp for spare-tire sub & woofers
-Alpine PXE-0850S DSP + 25w x 4 amp for mids & tweeters
-PXE volume control in ABS 3D printed holder, replaces the dash rheostat (no drill / no permanent mods)

I'm usually questioned by other owners about losing the spare tire to a subwoofer. It's 100% worth it for amazing sound.
You can actually remove the cover to the jack storage & the tire can sit in the trunk without issue. For long trips, I just bungee cord it to the shock tower brace.

Good solution... was surprised that a sub in the luggage area would be effective in the cabin. aren't you sending most of the sub sound out to the street rather than directed towards the driver? I know sub frequencies are mostly omnidirectional, but the distance and stuff in between should affect the sound, now?

[joshg]

I didn't see this mentioned here, but a reminder that you need to split the speaker grounds with modern headsets, or it'll sound rubbish.

can you say more about this? i don't understand what splitting the grounds means.

[joshg]

https://i.imgur.com/lInkPMA.jpg?1

wow... not sure what we're looking at here. Is the screen for the monitoring of the parameters also handling A/V? what's the head unit itself?

[MrChocky]

can you say more about this? i don't understand what splitting the grounds means.

In the plugs used to connect to the original radio, the negative connections for the front (and separately, the rear) go to the same
pin. You need to pull out one of these and wire it separately if you are going to reuse it.

[Helirich]

Joshg,

I don't know anything about the new stuff, but if your Craig is still working, I would like to buy it. I'm not a purest either, I just got a box of good cassettes.

[WHO1DMC]

Joshg,

I don't know anything about the new stuff, but if your Craig is still working, I would like to buy it. I'm not a purest either, I just got a box of good cassettes.

Remember the original tape decks are now 40 years old. The belts are beyond their life span. The flex cables to the screen are brittle. The grease is probably no good as well. They need to be refurbished or you'll just eat up tapes. I've had my car over 5 years now and I haven't even tried a tape because of these reasons.


Dave B.

[Helirich]

Remember the original tape decks are now 40 years old. The belts are beyond their life span. The flex cables to the screen are brittle. The grease is probably no good as well. They need to be refurbished or you'll just eat up tapes. I've had my car over 5 years now and I haven't even tried a tape because of these reasons.


Dave B.

The tapes are currently in my 30 year old Bronco. OEM tape deck. I think my Bronco had a much harder life than this car. Works so far. But your concerns are noted.

[WHO1DMC]

The tapes are currently in my 30 year old Bronco. OEM tape deck. I think my Bronco had a much harder life than this car. Works so far. But your concerns are noted.

Your trying to compare two completely different systems that are about 15 years apart in teck. The ford tape deck was a very good unit. No screen in the door and I believe by that time there direct drive or gear drive.

Not trying to start a tit for tat just pointing out some differences.

Sorry to the OP this is not what this is for!
Dave B.

[FABombjoy]

Good solution... was surprised that a sub in the luggage area would be effective in the cabin. aren't you sending most of the sub sound out to the street rather than directed towards the driver? I know sub frequencies are mostly omnidirectional, but the distance and stuff in between should affect the sound, now?
No, it's not an issue at these frequencies. The energy stays mostly in the car.

First image shows the uncorrected (no EQ applied) measurement from in car (drivers seat on my right shoulder)
https://imgur.com/a/6AENVGR

Pre-80hz the sub response is really pretty reasonable for "out of the box" and given that I've constrained the enclosure design to the spare tire dimensions.

Second image is the RH 6.5" woofer w/ a preliminary correction applied. It's fairly even beginning 60-70hz so I'll spend some time blending the crossover region between the two.

Some of these response valleys are likely semi-permanent due to the shape of the cabin and construction materials of the vehicle. I've not had much free time to tune & experiment but will be further dialing things in in over the coming weeks.