Driver info needed

[Helirich]

Tonite I drove my car for the first time at speed. I live on a dirt road about a mile long. I've driven it in my yard and out on the dirt road a few times, tonite I took it on the highway up around 65 mph.

I have never driven one of these cars. In fact, I've never even rode in one on the road till tonite. I want to know what's normal.

First, it seems like the car has no power till about 2000 rpm. From 2000 to 4000 it runs pretty good. When I say no power, I mean in any gear but first and second it really won't excellerate below 2000. I've had lots of problems getting this to run right and I'm hoping that I still have some improvements coming.

Second, I did a panic brake to test its stopping ability. It stopped pretty quick, but I ended up locking the front wheels. They lock easily on the dirt road, but I didn't think they would on blacktop. I have to say they lock easier than most cars I've driven. No sound from the rear. Do I need to adjust something there. (I have checked the pads and they all look fairly thick.)

In an unrelated question, do any of you know if the cross over pipe will come off without taking the converter or muffler off? I've got an exhaust leak. I think it's in that pipes gaskets or maybe the pipe itself.

Edit, I was disappointed to find I couldn't take it to 88 mph. Is there a speedometer available that goes higher?

[Rich]

Answers to most of your questions here in bold. Performance figures are from car mag tests done in '81 or so with new DeLoreans.


Tonite I drove my car for the first time at speed. I live on a dirt road about a mile long. I've driven it in my yard and out on the dirt road a few times, tonite I took it on the highway up around 65 mph.

I have never driven one of these cars. In fact, I've never even rode in one on the road till tonite. I want to know what's normal.

First, it seems like the car has no power till about 2000 rpm. From 2000 to 4000 it runs pretty good. When I say no power, I mean in any gear but first and second it really won't excellerate below 2000. I've had lots of problems getting this to run right and I'm hoping that I still have some improvements coming.

A stock D will accelerate fine from about 1500RPM on up past 5000. "Fine" means OK for 130HP pushing 2900lb plus the passengers. 5-spd 0-60MPH times are in the 9-10sec range. On level asphalt. Slamming the shifts if you dare.

Second, I did a panic brake to test its stopping ability. It stopped pretty quick, but I ended up locking the front wheels. They lock easily on the dirt road, but I didn't think they would on blacktop. I have to say they lock easier than most cars I've driven. No sound from the rear. Do I need to adjust something there. (I have checked the pads and they all look fairly thick.)

Locking the fronts first is normal. For a non-ABS car this is the most stable and safe setup. Locking all 4 tires at the same time may be ideal but designers like to have a bit more braking in back because it keeps the back end from breaking loose before the fronts at which point the car will tend to spin. Again, all this is on pavement.

In an unrelated question, do any of you know if the cross over pipe will come off without taking the converter or muffler off? I've got an exhaust leak. I think it's in that pipes gaskets or maybe the pipe itself.

Edit, I was disappointed to find I couldn't take it to 88 mph. Is there a speedometer available that goes higher?

One or more vendors used to sell a 140MPH speedo. Am guessing you could find a used one if nobody sells them retail anymore. As you may know a stock 5-speed D tops out at 105-110MPH. A (safe) top speed run on level ground will be one more way to check your power output. Even without the 140MPH speedo you can gauge your speed past the 85MPH mark using some algebra and the tachometer. I don't recall whether I got top speed in 4th or 5th, come to think of it. It was a long time ago.

[FABombjoy]

Ditto on everything Rich said.
If the brakes lock too easily, its a traction (tire) problem not a brake problem.

[Helirich]

Thanks guys, it looks like I have more to do as mine won't excellerate in 3rd gear at 1500.

[Ron]

Since the front is lighter than most, it is very important to inflate the tires according to the label. What is on the tire is usually quite higher, which will make the tire bulge, reducing the contact area/friction (and cause other problems).

There are 160MPH speedometers running around as well.

[Helirich]

Since the front is lighter than most, it is very important to inflate the tires according to the label. What is on the tire is usually quite higher, which will make the tire bulge, reducing the contact area/friction (and cause other problems).

There are 160MPH speedometers running around as well.

Label?

120 mph would be fine. 80 is embarrassing.

Another quick question. My idle sometimes is fine and sometimes it just hunts up and down. I've read vacuum leaks might be an issue. (My hoses are dry and brittle) But I wonder why sometimes it idles fine. Is there anything else I should look at?

[Ron]

Label?

120 mph would be fine. 80 is embarrassing.

Another quick question. My idle sometimes is fine and sometimes it just hunts up and down. I've read vacuum leaks might be an issue. (My hoses are dry and brittle) But I wonder why sometimes it idles fine. Is there anything else I should look at?Label should be inside the glove box lid (or in door jamb by law).
https://store.delorean.com/105198-tire-pressure-label.html

On the hunting, you'll get a million answers.
Yeah, vacuum leaks are a very common cause. But a lot depends on mods, how bad,when it happens, etc.
I'd suggest getting everything in top shape and to specs (full tune up, timing, CO, etc,) as you can then post a vid in a new thread.

[Rich]

About the original 85MPH speedo.
Yes, 120 would indeed be fine.

You can thank the Arab Oil Embargo, the U.S. Congress and President Nixon for the one in your car.
85MPH max speedos were mandated on all new cars sold here when the DeLorean went on the market, including such cars as the Porsche 928 and the DeTomaso Pantera.
That rule also mandated the special font for the 55MPH index mark. The national speed limit was 55 at the time.

The speedometer doesn't care how much faster than 85 you drive. It just won't help you do it.

Good luck sorting your car to make that happen.



120 mph would be fine. 80 is embarrassing.

[hippieman9]

Tonite I drove my car for the first time at speed. I live on a dirt road about a mile long. I've driven it in my yard and out on the dirt road a few times, tonite I took it on the highway up around 65 mph.

I have never driven one of these cars. In fact, I've never even rode in one on the road till tonite. I want to know what's normal.

First, it seems like the car has no power till about 2000 rpm. From 2000 to 4000 it runs pretty good. When I say no power, I mean in any gear but first and second it really won't excellerate below 2000. I've had lots of problems getting this to run right and I'm hoping that I still have some improvements coming.

Automatic transmission? If so sounds like the servo may need to be updated.

In an unrelated question, do any of you know if the cross over pipe will come off without taking the converter or muffler off? I've got an exhaust leak. I think it's in that pipes gaskets or maybe the pipe itself.
Yes you can remove the crossover pipe with out removing the manifolds, it’s tricky, but can be done.

Edit, I was disappointed to find I couldn't take it to 88 mph. Is there a speedometer available that goes higher?
Even though the stock Speedo, only reads 85mph it will go faster as I’ve had mine up to 110 confirmed with GPS. DMCH does offer a 140 mph speedo though.

[Helirich]

Even though the stock Speedo, only reads 85mph it will go faster as I’ve had mine up to 110 confirmed with GPS. DMCH does offer a 140 mph speedo though.

Aparently, out of stock. Anybody installed one of them? Looks like it should be easy. Sometimes looks are deceiving. They cost more than a dollar per mile. Lol. (I think it would be worth it)

[? ? ? ?]

About the original 85MPH speedo.
You can thank the Arab Oil Embargo, the U.S. Congress and President Nixon for the one in your car.
85MPH max speedos were mandated on all new cars sold here when the DeLorean went on the market, including such cars as the Porsche 928 and the DeTomaso Pantera.
That rule also mandated the special font for the 55MPH index mark. The national speed limit was 55 at the time.



The 85 MPH speedometer and highlighted 55 wasn't mandated until 1979, so that is primarily thanks to Jimmy Carter and Joan Claybrook. The law was repelled a couple years later after Reagan took office. I recall seeing some 1980's Honda's that didn't have the 85 MPH speedo, and were made after the law was gone.

[Ron]

Aparently, out of stock. Anybody installed one of them? Looks like it should be easy. Sometimes looks are deceiving. They cost more than a dollar per mile. Lol. (I think it would be worth it)


There are a few How Tos in the Resource Section that should help. Two Here:
http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?5085-How-To-Binnacle-Removal-and-Bulb-Replacement
http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?10011-Binnacle-removal-anything-else-I-should-do-while-it-s-out

Only thing I would add is that short ratchet wrenches help and keep track of where the fasteners go (several sizes etc.)

[David T]

Check that the mechanical and vacuum advance is working and working correctly. The stock Delorean is in no sense a "performance" type vehicle so there is only so much you can expect from it. If you think the 5-speed is bad, try an automatic! The 170 MPH speedo is just a stock speedo with a stick-on label that is re calibrated. Somewhere is a .pdf of the label that you can print and then you take your speedo to a shop to be re calibrated. Or you can look for one from one of the vendors or maybe find a used one. Part of the original Island Turbo install was also doing the 170 MPH speedo. The brakes were set up so the fronts would lock up before the rears because if the rears locked up first the car would skid uncontrollably because of the rear engine. Make sure you have the correct tire sizes and pressures to maintain that bias. Test driving on an unpaved road is not the best way to test any car. Hard to tell if it is leading to one side, pulling when applying the brakes, noises, etc. It is useful to test the clutch, transmission and engine. If you have exhaust leaks you probably need new gaskets between the exhaust manifolds and the heads. Fun job.

[Helirich]

Check that the mechanical and vacuum advance is working and working correctly.


If you have exhaust leaks you probably need new gaskets between the exhaust manifolds and the heads. Fun job.

Ive checked the mechanical advance and it appears to work. The vacuum does not leak, but I haven't confirmed the amount of advance. (If any) I don't have anything to generate 5" of vacuum. Maybe I could use my AC pump somehow.


On the exhaust, I'm kind of figuring on a manifold gasket. I had my wife rev the car while I felt around underneath. I couldn't feel or see anything. It sounds like either the driver's side manifold or maybe the flex section on the cross over pipe. Is it susceptible to cracking? What I could see wasn't cracked, but the heat shield looked like a section was black with soot.

I'm going to order one of those manifold kits with studs and all because mine look terrible. I don't want to tear into it until I have the kit on my bench. Might get the manifolds ceramic coated.

[Ron]

Ive checked the mechanical advance and it appears to work. The vacuum does not leak, but I haven't confirmed the amount of advance. (If any) I don't have anything to generate 5" of vacuum. Maybe I could use my AC pump somehow.
Disconnect and plug the vacuum advance line at the distributor.
Check the timing at idle. It should be 13°.
Rev the engine to 4000 RPM. It should add 20°, giving 33°.
Reconnect the vacuum.
Rev the engine to 4000 RPM. It should add 20°, giving 53°.

[Helirich]

Disconnect and plug the vacuum advance line at the distributor.
Check the vacuum at idle. It should be 13°.
Rev the engine to 4000 RPM. It should add 20°, giving 33°.
Reconnect the vacuum.
Rev the engine to 4000 RPM. It should add 20°, giving 53°.

The vacuum at idle should be 13 degrees? Ha-ha. (I know what you meant)

I'm working by myself. How do you rev it to 4000 while looking at the timing marks? I can work the throttle, but I can't do it very accurate and I can't see the tach from there.

[Ron]

The vacuum at idle should be 13 degrees? Ha-ha. (I know what you meant)

I'm working by myself. How do you rev it to 4000 while looking at the timing marks? I can work the throttle, but I can't do it very accurate and I can't see the tach from there.LOL Sorry, I'll fix that...
(Ah, you should of been nicer to your helper last time... ;-)
You really shouldn't use the tach in the dash for timing anyway. Use a multimeter and the throttle spool.
As for RPM accuracy, 4000+ will work. It maxes out there.

[CFI]

The 85 MPH speedometer and highlighted 55 wasn't mandated until 1979, so that is primarily thanks to Jimmy Carter and Joan Claybrook. The law was repelled a couple years later after Reagan took office. I recall seeing some 1980's Honda's that didn't have the 85 MPH speedo, and were made after the law was gone.

Some companies (Buick, IIRC) had purchased so many 85MPH speedometers that they continued to use them well after the law had been repealed.

[Michael]

Odd how the 85mph myth stuck to the DeLorean and not all the other cars with the same "top speed".

[Helirich]

Odd how the 85mph myth stuck to the DeLorean and not all the other cars with the same "top speed".

Most of them are in the crusher. Of course, the Delorean looks fast also.

I have a C7 Corvette. I guess it's capable of 200 mph. I've had it to 160 once. I can count the number of times it's been over a hundred on my fingers. BUT, I have no idea how many times it's been over 85! I would be happy to have 120 on the dial. I just checked with DMC and they don't have them right now. (There working on a new supplier) Probably they won't get them untill all this Covid nonsense is over.

[David T]

DMCH is not the only "game in town". Try other vendors. Besides, if you aren't driving the car on public roads yet there is no rush to get the 170 speedo.

[Helirich]

DMCH is not the only "game in town". Try other vendors. Besides, if you aren't driving the car on public roads yet there is no rush to get the 170 speedo.

Had someone comment on it in my garage allready. Lol. But you're right, it will wait till I have it on the road. There's a few things I will order as soon as it is on the road.

For now I'm waiting for exhaust gaskets. I pulled the crossover tube and I don't think it's leaking. (Can't get it completely out.) Does anyone know if it will come out after I pull the converter and muffler? It appears the leak is the driver's side manifold. Studs look like rust city. We'll see what kind of job that turns into. Lol.

[artisticent]

Aparently, out of stock. Anybody installed one of them? Looks like it should be easy. Sometimes looks are deceiving. They cost more than a dollar per mile. Lol. (I think it would be worth it)

This speedo was one of the first things i bought for my car for all the same reasons you want one. I did install it and while I liked the look of the higher markings, the black background just DOESNT quite match the black of the original gauges. It bothered me so I removed it and put thr original back in. I am also committed to keeping it now because I took my car in to DMCCA for some work at the time and they went and smogged the car without me knowing and the logged the higher mileage shown on the speedo (60K) as opposed to the true 34K on the car and on the original Speedo. Anyway just my 2 cents on the look of the aftermarket one..
Nathan

[David T]

Not only will you find the exhaust gaskets blown, if it was driven for a long time with the leak you will have to have the manifolds ground flat. You also need the stud kit, you will probably break a few taking it apart. I do it with an Oxy-Acetalyne torch and usually get it all apart without breaking any. The kit comes with nuts and washers too. The better kits are S/S but they are pricey.

[Rich]

Without answering your crossover pipe removal question your upcoming project (pulling the catalytic converter) may a good opportunity to at least take a good look at the cat itself.

Your ongoing low-power and low-revs issue is consistent with a restricted intake or restricted exhaust. And within those categories a bad/clogged cat is right up there on the possible-problem list. A new cat or at least a cat bypass pipe (for diagnosis only) might be worth trying.


......For now I'm waiting for exhaust gaskets. I pulled the crossover tube and I don't think it's leaking. (Can't get it completely out.)
Does anyone know if it will come out after I pull the converter and muffler? It appears the leak is the driver's side manifold.

[Helirich]

Not only will you find the exhaust gaskets blown, if it was driven for a long time with the leak you will have to have the manifolds ground flat. You also need the stud kit, you will probably break a few taking it apart. I do it with an Oxy-Acetalyne torch and usually get it all apart without breaking any. The kit comes with nuts and washers too. The better kits are S/S but they are pricey.

I got the kit with the studs. I do have a oxy-acetalyne. I may try it if things don't work out. I sprayed it good with PB blaster a couple days ago. I probably won't get to it for a few more.


Without answering your crossover pipe removal question your upcoming project (pulling the catalytic converter) may a good opportunity to at least take a good look at the cat itself.

Your ongoing low-power and low-revs issue is consistent with a restricted intake or restricted exhaust. And within those categories a bad/clogged cat is right up there on the possible-problem list. A new cat or at least a cat bypass pipe (for diagnosis only) might be worth trying.

I've allready had the cat off and it and the muffler are clear.

On the power/rev issue. I changed the plugs and it seemed to run better, but it got worse the longer I ran it. When I got back to the house, it was lugging terrible and finally quit in my driveway. When it was lugging, the volt meter was dropping to 8 volts and lights dimming. I was pondering towing back up to my shop when I decided to try the key. It started right up and ran great. The next day I took it out for a bit and it ran great again.

Theory, I have an old battery in the car. (17 year old Optima) It is just temporary battery I had around the shop. I wonder if it was working well while I had the headlights on. Possibly, the volts were so low, the ignition was failing. I have tested the alternator and it's good, but maybe that battery is fickle.

The plan is to fix my manifold leak and install all new ignition parts, in addition to a new battery.

[Helirich]

Not only will you find the exhaust gaskets blown, if it was driven for a long time with the leak you will have to have the manifolds ground flat. You also need the stud kit, you will probably break a few taking it apart. I do it with an Oxy-Acetalyne torch and usually get it all apart without breaking any. The kit comes with nuts and washers too. The better kits are S/S but they are pricey.

I got four studs out without much trouble. Broke the other two. Interesting, the easiest and the hardest to get to. (Very front and very rear) I just got done with the front one and was able to drill an 1/8" hole dead center down the stud. I then drilled a slightly larger drill bit and disintegrated the stud. Ran a tap down and it all cleaned up nicely. I was thinking of installing a helicoil, but the threads are tight.

The other one is going to be trouble. I will have to use a right angle drill to get in there. I don't see how I can be accurate on drilling down the center of the stud. I decided to sleep on it.


Without answering your crossover pipe removal question your upcoming project (pulling the catalytic converter) may a good opportunity to at least take a good look at the cat itself.

Your ongoing low-power and low-revs issue is consistent with a restricted intake or restricted exhaust. And within those categories a bad/clogged cat is right up there on the possible-problem list. A new cat or at least a cat bypass pipe (for diagnosis only) might be worth trying.

Rich, as I said above the cat is definitely clear. I put a light in one end and I could see it was all clear.

I think the exhaust is clear also, but I'm not as sure. I sprayed compressed air at the inlet from about 6" away. Then I held my hand at the outlets where I could feel the air coming out. It seemed to come out fine and it wouldn't take much blockage to stop the flow since I wasn't actually pressurizing it. I also shook it and couldn't feel or hear anything loose inside.

What How would you test it to ensure it was clear?

[Rich]

Rich, as I said above the cat is definitely clear. I put a light in one end and I could see it was all clear.

I think the exhaust is clear also, but I'm not as sure. I sprayed compressed air at the inlet from about 6" away. Then I held my hand at the outlets where I could feel the air coming out. It seemed to come out fine and it wouldn't take much blockage to stop the flow since I wasn't actually pressurizing it. I also shook it and couldn't feel or hear anything loose inside.

What How would you test it to ensure it was clear?

This article (https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-test-a-catalytic-converter), along with its video, explains a few different tests you can consider running to verify whether your cat is OK or not.

I haven't run any of them myself.