Delphi Fuel Pump DFG0089 & Hardware replacement

[Beachdrifter]

Hi all,

Yesterday , after driving in prolonged stop and go traffic, in ~ 90 degree weather, when I got home I noticed a slight buzzing noise from the front of the car at idle. I figured it's the fuel pump being louder than normal and heat associated with the driving. I've read all the shortcomings of the stock fuel setup and heat associated with it.

It's been like 8 years since I replaced mine with the standard setup, and figured I'd go ahead and upgrade this system and get rid of the extra crap in the tank that is outdated as well.
I've heard a few use this new modern pump with success.

Can anyone point out the links to the required "v-clamp" to hold it down, as well as good sources for the 90 degree quick disconnects to the pump?
Also, if I were to install this while leaving my fuel sender in place, which of the two outer harness wires are (+) and neg (-) ? (if anyone happens to know off hand).

Thanks really appreciate any info,

-Randy

[Nicholas R]

As I recall the go-to is a standard 4" stainless steel v-band clamp. Like this: https://www.ebay.com/itm/372940661058

These are commonly for turbos and exhaust systems so a lot of them come with the flanges to weld to the plumbing. But in this circumstance only the clamp is needed.

[Beachdrifter]

As I recall the go-to is a standard 4" stainless steel v-band clamp. Like this: https://www.ebay.com/itm/372940661058

These are commonly for turbos and exhaust systems so a lot of them come with the flanges to weld to the plumbing. But in this circumstance only the clamp is needed.

Hey Nick, great seeing you yesterday, thanks for this info! I saw a few of these 4in ones but just wasn't sure.
Appreciate the link.

-Randy

[Bitsyncmaster]

In post 21 of my thread, I posted a number for the clamp but have not tested it.

http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?17160-V-band-clamp-for-GM-fuel-pump/page3

[Beachdrifter]

Great links so far, thank you . First time considering these modern pumps. I noticed it eliminates a lot of the standard hardware in the tank like baffle and tubing.
Are these pumps adjustable in height and if so, what is the proper setting? or is it pretty much drop in and that's it? Just wondering how low it is supposed to be from the bottom of the tank?

Thanks,

[CFI]

The problem with V clamps is that the diameter is just one of the measurements. The “V” channel itself must also be the proper size to engage both the fuel pump and gas tank. To keep things simple, I purchased the V clamp directly from DMCH.

For quick disconnects, you’ll need:

1/4 inch barb* to 5/16
1/4 inch barb * to 6/16 [3/8]
*The disconnects I purchased actually ranged in size from 1/4 at the tip to 5/16
You can find these on Amazon.

As far as wiring, the instructions included with the Delphi pump will tell you.
As far as height, the unit is spring loaded. During installation into the DeLorean fuel tank you’ll need to compress it slightly in order for it to seat correctly.

[Beachdrifter]

The problem with V clamps is that the diameter is just one of the measurements. The “V” channel itself must also be the proper size to engage both the fuel pump and gas tank. To keep things simple, I purchased the V clamp directly from DMCH.

For quick disconnects, you’ll need:

1/4 inch barb* to 5/16
1/4 inch barb * to 6/16 [3/8]
*The disconnects I purchased actually ranged in size from 1/4 at the tip to 5/16
You can find these on Amazon.

As far as wiring, the instructions included with the Delphi pump will tell you.
As far as height, the unit is spring loaded. During installation into the DeLorean fuel tank you’ll need to compress it slightly in order for it to seat correctly.

Many thanks CFI, great information and very helpful!!

[Chris 16409]

Just did this for a friend. I’ve been putting together install kits.

65961

[dmcman73]

Just did this for a friend. I’ve been putting together install kits.

65961

Which gasket is that? That's not the one that comes with the pump itself.

[Helirich]

Is there a big savings in sourcing the parts yourself? I just bought the complete kit from DMC. The only thing I don't like about it is no fuel sock. At least not one I could see. Seems like if the big trouble with these cars is fuel contamination, you would want a big fuel sock.

Oh, and the other complaint is the fuel sender doesn't work until you start the car. (Not just turn the key on) I might go back to the original sender.

[dn010]

Is there a big savings? I don't know how much they charge now but I think years ago it was $450 or around there (Feel free to correct me if I am wrong), I can't look now because they show out of stock. In comparison, the Delphi pump can be purchased anywhere from $75 - $200+ depending on where you look. A band is another $15 and you'd need to figure out wiring/harness. So in my opinion, yes, there is a huge cost savings but you don't get it in "kit" form with everything you need.

Also, the "big trouble" isn't fuel contamination, the problem is when fuel is left in the tank for an extended period of time where it turns to varnish. A 'sock' won't help you.

[WHO1DMC]

By the way there's a fuel sock or pre filter. It's in the housing with the pump.




Dave B.

[Chris 16409]

Which gasket is that? That's not the one that comes with the pump itself.

Correct the top seal is different than the one that seals the hole. Since I tell people to buy the pump at AutoZone so you get a lifetime warranty. I don’t want to cut the locator tab off the pump in case a smart employee notices during a warranty exchange. The top seal I use allows the tab to remain intact.

You can save some money doing the job yourself. The AC Delco Mu1777 is what I use. It is the same pump as the Delphi. I believe Delphi makes parts for GM. Anyhow my kit costs $75 and comes with everything you need to set it up. You need to have a working sender or buy Dave’s pump logic box. When AutoZone has an online 25% off coupon the pump comes to like $150.

[dmcman73]

Correct the top seal is different than the one that seals the hole. Since I tell people to buy the pump at AutoZone so you get a lifetime warranty. I don’t want to cut the locator tab off the pump in case a smart employee notices during a warranty exchange. The top seal I use allows the tab to remain intact.

You can save some money doing the job yourself. The AC Delco Mu1777 is what I use. It is the same pump as the Delphi. I believe Delphi makes parts for GM. Anyhow my kit costs $75 and comes with everything you need to set it up. You need to have a working sender or buy Dave’s pump logic box. When AutoZone has an online 25% off coupon the pump comes to like $150.

Locator tab? I purchased the Delphi one and I don't remember cutting off a locator tab to fit the pump. It came with a thick rubber ring seal but not the top one you are using.

[CFI]

Locator tab? I purchased the Delphi one and I don't remember cutting off a locator tab to fit the pump. It came with a thick rubber ring seal but not the top one you are using.

There is a small plastic tab that can interfere with the V clamp. I filed mine down.

[dmcman73]

There is a small plastic tab that can interfere with the V clamp. I filed mine down.

Is it at the top or bottom of the lip?

[Chris 16409]

Here is a top view.

65968

[dmcman73]

Here is a top view.

65968

Thanks, Chris. I can't recall if mine had that tab or not.

[Bitsyncmaster]

Thanks, Chris. I can't recall if mine had that tab or not.

I think they all have that tab. It's a good idea to have a way to not have to cut it off. Not only for guarantee but if you have to replace it on the road then you don't need to cut it off with no tools.

[Beachdrifter]

Excited, bought all my goodies and we shall see how it all comes together. Already took out the old pump and baffle inside. So glad to get rid of all the unnecessary outdated stuff and rubber parts. Hopefully should be a better performing and quieter pump especially on high temp days.

Randy

[Chris 16409]

You'll need to get an external check valve

https://www.usplastic.com/catalog/item.aspx?itemid=85394&catid=940

[Bitsyncmaster]

Excited, bought all my goodies and we shall see how it all comes together. Already took out the old pump and baffle inside. So glad to get rid of all the unnecessary outdated stuff and rubber parts. Hopefully should be a better performing and quieter pump especially on high temp days.

Randy

My pump is pretty loud. Not sure if it's the pump I installed or something with my setup. My pump has a metal top but I think it may be I need to install some foam around the top of the tank to stop it acting like a drum.

[Josh]

My pump is pretty loud. Not sure if it's the pump I installed or something with my setup. My pump has a metal top but I think it may be I need to install some foam around the top of the tank to stop it acting like a drum.

That is a completely different pump Hervey was selling. it is from a 2003-2007 flexfuel gm truck. The pump is larger capacity due to flexfuel. Its not a great fit for the car. Furthermore he provided no QC fittings so people were clamping hoses onto an unbarbed fitting.

[Chris 16409]

That is a completely different pump Hervey was selling. it is from a 2003-2007 flexfuel gm truck. The pump is larger capacity due to flexfuel. Its not a great fit for the car. Furthermore he provided no QC fittings so people were clamping hoses onto an unbarbed fitting.

He didn't provide the correct electrical connector either. The AC Delco / Delphi pump seems to be good. It was one of few brands that published a Max PSI rating (109 PSI).

[Josh]

He didn't provide the correct electrical connector either. The AC Delco / Delphi pump seems to be good. It was one of few brands that published a Max PSI rating (109 PSI).

All the GM pumps should be at least 100psi if they are manufactured to oem specs. but if its not published it is impossible to know.

[Bitsyncmaster]

My pump is the Bosch 67317. I got that one because the owner that convinced me to design the fuel gauge ECU also used that one. I don't know if Hervey used the same. I did do a max pressure test and it pegged my 100 PSI gauge. I also did a flow check at 75 PSI and yes it is way more then any owner would need.

[CFI]

You'll need to get an external check valve

https://www.usplastic.com/catalog/item.aspx?itemid=85394&catid=940

I run my Delphi setup without an external check valve. Works just fine.

[Drive Stainless]

I run my Delphi setup without an external check valve. Works just fine.

Same here. Chris will explain now. :)

[dmcman73]

Same here. Chris will explain now. :)

The internal should suffice, but, these pumps were not made to hold pressure back when the car was off like in the Delorean fuel system which is why i think some of the other pump models failed after a while. For an $18 check valve, I just bought one and installed it "just in case" since I was making all new fuel lines anyway.

[Josh]

Same here. Chris will explain now. :)

You are not running Kjet though either.

[Beachdrifter]

I just installed the pump and clamped it down. For the plastic quick disconnect fittings, I push them in and they "click" into place. However is it normal that you can still have some freeplay in the connector to where it still can rotate around? Just curious because they are in but can still be moved.

Thanks

Randy

[Michael]

I just installed the pump and clamped it down. For the plastic quick disconnect fittings, I push them in and they "click" into place. However is it normal that you can still have some freeplay in the connector to where it still can rotate around? Just curious because they are in but can still be moved.

Thanks

Randy

Yes it is normal. Still you will want to leave the cover off and run for some time to make sure there are no leaks as well as after stopping the engine, check after about 30 minutes as the system will still be under pressure so you may see any small leaks.

[dmcman73]

I just installed the pump and clamped it down. For the plastic quick disconnect fittings, I push them in and they "click" into place. However is it normal that you can still have some freeplay in the connector to where it still can rotate around? Just curious because they are in but can still be moved.

Thanks

Randy

Yes, it's normal that they can rotate. As long as they click when you popped them on, you're good.

[MacStainless]

Correct the top seal is different than the one that seals the hole. Since I tell people to buy the pump at AutoZone so you get a lifetime warranty. I don’t want to cut the locator tab off the pump in case a smart employee notices during a warranty exchange. The top seal I use allows the tab to remain intact.

You can save some money doing the job yourself. The AC Delco Mu1777 is what I use. It is the same pump as the Delphi. I believe Delphi makes parts for GM. Anyhow my kit costs $75 and comes with everything you need to set it up. You need to have a working sender or buy Dave’s pump logic box. When AutoZone has an online 25% off coupon the pump comes to like $150.

What’s in the kit and how does one order it? I may need to re-do my fuel system in the coming week or so.

[Beachdrifter]

Hi all,

I have to say this has been a very informative thread. Thank you to all who chimed in!!
The least I can do now is report back.

The pump is in, all hooked up, heard the pump prime with a much more pleasing buzz than the old one, and car started right up!!

A few of my observations:

Good riddance, gone with the old!!!
66024

In with the new Delphi Pump -- great addition:
66025


My observations on the Delphi Pump:

1. Initially it took me a few tries to seat the pump in and get the V-Clamp to hold it down. I did end up buying a 4in Vclamp from Walker #35805. My first attempts were not that great, i felt that the lower part of the clamp was not actually engaging the tank even after maxing out the tightening to where the clamp would not go no more. The pump ended popping back out. My second try i made especially sure that the pump was pushed in as far as possible and flush with the gasket as much as possible, I also made a slight spacer of weather stripping rubber to fit in the "v groove" of the clap to help the clamp grip the rim of the pump more. It did that time and held the pump in, I can also shake the car a bit if I try to move the pump from side to side. I guess that is "tight enough" just to keep the pump in place, because needless to say if I actually use my whole strength I can probably still pull the pump out by force even with the clamp on. I figure with the spare tire on it and the force the clamp already has, that the pump should stay in place .

Any other observations on this? First time using this style clamp on anything.

2. The Delphi pump has the sender arm pointing the opposite direction; the way it swings would by default cause your gauge to read F when in fact it is L, and vice versa, as compared to the DMCH pump/sender combo unit. So I went ahead and reversed the bend of the sender unit that goes into the pump 180 degrees, and played with the rest of the metal rod to where it would be a nice shape and not exceed too far out to where it would catch the ground wire in the tank.

The thing is I still have a good sender unit which is the aftermarket Delorean.com unit. It works fine, but I went ahead and set the pump up with the sender unit in the event I go upgrade later. I figure the pump sender unit will be more accurate than the default unit since the Delorean.com unit seems to read more in 1/4ths at a time.
I'll tinker with that later and work to get maybe Dave's sender ECU unit.

Here is a great link, maybe from someone already here LOL, that explained the positioning of the sender arm. I went ahead and used this to leave it setup and ready .. LOL, i hope I did it right!

http://www.tmproductions.com/repairs-and-maintenance-blog/2019/8/4/yet-more-issues-alternator-water-pump-fuel-pump-sway-bar-and-coolant-temperature

3. After I started the car, I left it running for about 15 mins. There were no leaks at the pump or disconnects. I did notice a slight leak to my feed line at the hard line barb that goes into the car, so I just tightened the clamp down a few more turns and it stopped. The only thing I can attest to this is that maybe moving the lines around I disturbed the seal or perhaps this new pump has a slightly higher pressure than the old one and caused the initial small leak.

I'll keep it uncovered and check it a few hours overall to see if everything it good then I will start it again and patch it all up.

4. Oh and I did cut off that annoying tab on the rim, and a few on the top of the pump that might interfere with the spare wheel cover.

5. Also, I did not know this until now, but right above the pump on the bulkhead you will notice a hole, that hole is the drain from the windshield where all the rain water flushes down... conveniently on the pump and connector!! You can make some sort of gutter cover right in front of it from plastic to divert the splash of water away from the pump. I did so and now the water will run more along the bulkhead than splash right on the pump.



Overall I am very much happy with this setup, don't know why I didn't do it years ago!! I guess it took some annoying buzzing from a hot day of driving to make me realize it was time for this old pump to go.

Again, thanks everyone!!

--Randy

[Michael]

I noticed you said you tightened a clamp down to stop a leak. I don't know what clamps you are using but you may want to consider using fuel line clamps. It sounds like you are using hose clamps.

I absolutely love my pump option. I completely revamped the fuel system last year and I didn't make it 50 miles on a BRAND NEW oe pump and this was on a mild night and with me insulating the tank to boot!. Once I got my new pump in place, it has been perfect no matter what the ambient temps. I will caution to pay close attention to your fuel gauge as these tanks do not have a low cavity for a pump like this to sit in so empty really means empty.

[dmcman73]

Hi all,

I have to say this has been a very informative thread. Thank you to all who chimed in!!
The least I can do now is report back.

The pump is in, all hooked up, heard the pump prime with a much more pleasing buzz than the old one, and car started right up!!

A few of my observations:

Good riddance, gone with the old!!!
66024

In with the new Delphi Pump -- great addition:
66025


My observations on the Delphi Pump:

1. Initially it took me a few tries to seat the pump in and get the V-Clamp to hold it down. I did end up buying a 4in Vclamp from Walker #35805. My first attempts were not that great, i felt that the lower part of the clamp was not actually engaging the tank even after maxing out the tightening to where the clamp would not go no more. The pump ended popping back out. My second try i made especially sure that the pump was pushed in as far as possible and flush with the gasket as much as possible, I also made a slight spacer of weather stripping rubber to fit in the "v groove" of the clap to help the clamp grip the rim of the pump more. It did that time and held the pump in, I can also shake the car a bit if I try to move the pump from side to side. I guess that is "tight enough" just to keep the pump in place, because needless to say if I actually use my whole strength I can probably still pull the pump out by force even with the clamp on. I figure with the spare tire on it and the force the clamp already has, that the pump should stay in place .

Any other observations on this? First time using this style clamp on anything.

2. The Delphi pump has the sender arm pointing the opposite direction; the way it swings would by default cause your gauge to read F when in fact it is L, and vice versa, as compared to the DMCH pump/sender combo unit. So I went ahead and reversed the bend of the sender unit that goes into the pump 180 degrees, and played with the rest of the metal rod to where it would be a nice shape and not exceed too far out to where it would catch the ground wire in the tank.

The thing is I still have a good sender unit which is the aftermarket Delorean.com unit. It works fine, but I went ahead and set the pump up with the sender unit in the event I go upgrade later. I figure the pump sender unit will be more accurate than the default unit since the Delorean.com unit seems to read more in 1/4ths at a time.
I'll tinker with that later and work to get maybe Dave's sender ECU unit.

Here is a great link, maybe from someone already here LOL, that explained the positioning of the sender arm. I went ahead and used this to leave it setup and ready .. LOL, i hope I did it right!

http://www.tmproductions.com/repairs-and-maintenance-blog/2019/8/4/yet-more-issues-alternator-water-pump-fuel-pump-sway-bar-and-coolant-temperature

3. After I started the car, I left it running for about 15 mins. There were no leaks at the pump or disconnects. I did notice a slight leak to my feed line at the hard line barb that goes into the car, so I just tightened the clamp down a few more turns and it stopped. The only thing I can attest to this is that maybe moving the lines around I disturbed the seal or perhaps this new pump has a slightly higher pressure than the old one and caused the initial small leak.

I'll keep it uncovered and check it a few hours overall to see if everything it good then I will start it again and patch it all up.

4. Oh and I did cut off that annoying tab on the rim, and a few on the top of the pump that might interfere with the spare wheel cover.

5. Also, I did not know this until now, but right above the pump on the bulkhead you will notice a hole, that hole is the drain from the windshield where all the rain water flushes down... conveniently on the pump and connector!! You can make some sort of gutter cover right in front of it from plastic to divert the splash of water away from the pump. I did so and now the water will run more along the bulkhead than splash right on the pump.



Overall I am very much happy with this setup, don't know why I didn't do it years ago!! I guess it took some annoying buzzing from a hot day of driving to make me realize it was time for this old pump to go.

Again, thanks everyone!!

--Randy

For the leak around the fuel line to the barb: Did you use a razor to cut the old line off the barb? If so, you may have nicked it with the blade causing the leak as well.

For the fuel sender, I know Dave McKeen made a fuel sender ECU for the Tahoe one that I think takes the orientation of the sender in account, his ECU is fully programmable so you can calibrate it for F and E.

[Bitsyncmaster]

Because our tank has a very small rib on the pump hole, The V clamp does not pull the pump down tight. It just holds it where you push is down. I thought about machining the proper shaped ring to attach to the tank but never got around to it. With my pump the seal was very tight. I sanded any imperfection off the inside opening on the tank and was finally able to seat the pump with a lot of downward force.

[Beachdrifter]

Thanks for the feedback on the barb and vclamp. I've checked the car and everything looks good.

As for that little leak, I guess it was more of an annoyance than anything, it stopped. The clamp i was using is for fuel lines. The only hose I replaced was my return line because it was initially too short. I left my feed line in since it still looked good and didn't want to mess with it.

I can't say for sure if the barb is damaged or not. But since the little dribble stopped after tightening it down a few more turns until no more it hasn't leaked again.

When it comes time to remove the feed line to replace in the future, I will take care removing it and inspect closer.
Maybe this pump seems to have a bit more "umph" than my tired 8 yr old oe pump.


Randy

[dmcman73]

Because our tank has a very small rib on the pump hole, The V clamp does not pull the pump down tight. It just holds it where you push is down. I thought about machining the proper shaped ring to attach to the tank but never got around to it. With my pump the seal was very tight. I sanded any imperfection off the inside opening on the tank and was finally able to seat the pump with a lot of downward force.

I was going to do the same thing except 3D print a ring from Carbon fiber and epoxy it to the neck.

[WHO1DMC]

A common problem with these pump setups is getting the closing panel on. Well I know mine was a bit tricky. So in these cases where the panel gives it so much down force does one really have to worry when you get it seated and clamped the best you can?


Dave B.

[Ron]

You don't want the cover rubbing a hole in the top of the pump from vibration... I put a small square of plywood on the pump, started the screws, and slowly tightened them while carefully heating the area with a heat gun. (Then tossed the plywood.)

[MacStainless]

I’ll ask my question again, but in a more general fashion since I didn’t get an answer: what do you need (besides the pump and v clamp) to do this job? Thanks.

[dmcman73]

I’ll ask my question again, but in a more general fashion since I didn’t get an answer: what do you need (besides the pump and v clamp) to do this job? Thanks.

- The pump should come with a new connector so you'll need find the pin outs of the pump you purchases and splice it into the cars wire harness.
- Optional would be to install a check valve, i installed one in the event the one in the pump failed
- If you are not going to use the OEM fuel sender and want to use the float on the new pump, purchase a fuel ECU from Dave Mckeen to interface it to your gauge
- Fuel injection fuel lines and clamps
- Quick connect fittings to snap onto the barbs of the fuel pump

That's really about it for parts.

[Ron]

Another option:
https://deloreanindustries.com/delorean-fuel-pump-kit-updated-divorced-sender/

[Michael]

Another option:
https://deloreanindustries.com/delorean-fuel-pump-kit-updated-divorced-sender/

That's the setup I used and I love it. I have no problems with the original sending unit. It works just fine mainly because I don't run my car to vapors before filling it up. Josh also sends 2 hookup options as well as one heck of a in line check valve.

[Chris 16409]

I’ll ask my question again, but in a more general fashion since I didn’t get an answer: what do you need (besides the pump and v clamp) to do this job? Thanks.

Hello sorry I haven’t checked this thread in a few days. My kit has everything you need to install the GM pump. Send me a PM.

[Bitsyncmaster]

I’ll ask my question again, but in a more general fashion since I didn’t get an answer: what do you need (besides the pump and v clamp) to do this job? Thanks.

You would need the mating electrical connector. The quick connect fittings for the fuel pump (outlet and return). Some extra hose if yours is to short. And fuel injection hose clamps for that hose. You may also want the external check valve. You may also need some extra wire (16 AWG is fine). Butt splices for the wire and crimping tool.

[MacStainless]

Thanks everyone. I very well may need to do fuel pump / line work soon and I’m trying to get my ducks in a row.

As far as the DPI kit goes, will it have any issue with KJet? From what I know, their stuff is for EFI and I would hate to possibly buy that kit and then have compatibility issues.

[Delorean Industries]

Our offering is for K jet cars. Our EFI pump system is only part of our full EFI kit.

[Delorean Industries]

That's the setup I used and I love it. I have no problems with the original sending unit. It works just fine mainly because I don't run my car to vapors before filling it up. Josh also sends 2 hookup options as well as one heck of a in line check valve.

We have updated this system to only include the top of the line braided stainless lines, fittings and billet check valve with stainless internals.

[MacStainless]

Our offering is for K jet cars. Our EFI pump system is only part of our full EFI kit.

A full three minutes and I’ve got the answer! Thanks Josh. You need to be faster next time. :-p Haha.

[Chris 16409]

Here is what I include:

-5/16 Gates Barricade Fuel Injection Hose

-Brass check valve

-Quick Fuel Line Connects

-Fuel Injection Hose Clamps

-Top Rubber Seal

-Wide Stainless Clamp

-Fuel Pump harness connecter

66032

[SS Spoiler]

don't get the two lines mixed, it will
run for ten seconds and quit....

[David T]

For those of you converting to the newer style, do not throw the old parts away. Offer them for sale, some owners may still want to stay OE and some of those parts are NLA. They may be junk to you but to someone else they are desirable. The nylon parts can be cleaned up and reused. After you install the new parts, keep checking for any leaks or smells if fuel. Fix any leak, no matter how small, right away.

[Michael]

For those of you converting to the newer style, do not throw the old parts away. Offer them for sale, some owners may still want to stay OE and some of those parts are NLA. They may be junk to you but to someone else they are desirable. The nylon parts can be cleaned up and reused. After you install the new parts, keep checking for any leaks or smells if fuel. Fix any leak, no matter how small, right away.

I thought about selling it but I would never curse anyone with an OE setup let alone make them pay for it.

[MacStainless]

Here is what I include:

-5/16 Gates Barricade Fuel Injection Hose

-Brass check valve

-Quick Fuel Line Connects

-Fuel Injection Hose Clamps

-Top Rubber Seal

-Wide Stainless Clamp

-Fuel Pump harness connecter

66032

Thanks! I saw you said to send you a PM. I’m gonna hold off until I know what’s needed on my car. I’m keeping this thread handy though so I can reference back to it.