Replaced Fuel Feed Line Now Car Wont Start

[Midnight Specialist]

Hi all,

I need some help figuring out this problem. We replaced the fuel feed line with a stainless one along with a new fuel filter. To make sure there were no leaks, we jumped the RPM instead of starting the car. There was fuel being pumped as a leak or two needed to be fixed. After multiple attempts at starting, we figured it might be flooded due to the us testing for leaks and trying to start it. After attempting to start today, no luck. Any ideas?

Installed is Dave's RPM (“HOT FIX” disabled) and hot start relay. Both the line and banjo blots were from DPI.

[Helirich]

Hi all,

I need some help figuring out this problem. We replaced the fuel feed line with a stainless one along with a new fuel filter. To make sure there were no leaks, we jumped the RPM instead of starting the car. There was fuel being pumped as a leak or two needed to be fixed. After multiple attempts at starting, we figured it might be flooded due to the us testing for leaks and trying to start it. After attempting to start today, no luck. Any ideas?

Installed is Dave's RPM (“HOT FIX” disabled) and hot start relay. Both the line and banjo blots were from DPI.

Was it easy to start before the work?

Edit, have you tried starter fluid?

[Ron]

If that's all you were working on and you don't have spark, I'd check fuse #1 (feeds RPM relay, distributor...).
If no luck, pull a few spark plugs and see if they are fuel fouled (still flooded).

[Jonathan]

Check the usual electrical suspects starting with the ballast resistor connections. If it wasn't hard to start before your fuel system work, you probably just bumped something loose.

[dmcman73]

The fuel feed line from the filter is right next to the connector the ignition distributor is plugged into that goes into the computer behind the drivers seat. Check that connector, make sure nothing is broken or became slightly unplugged. Also, unplug it and make sure that the connectors are not corroded.

Without this connection, you won't have any spark which will result in an obvious no start.

I would also inspect all of the other wiring connectors in that area as well and make sure everything it connected properly. It's very easy to knock then loose while working around them. Some of the connectors on the sensors in the VOD can also easily pop off...ask me how I know.

[DMC5180]

Check the usual electrical suspects starting with the ballast resistor connections. If it wasn't hard to start before your fuel system work, you probably just bumped something loose.

Yes, If it started okay before you did this work, look for wire connections that may have been pulled loose while you were working in the area.

1. Coil wire at Distributor
2. Wire connection at the Vacuum solenoid
3. Wiggle wires at the ballast resistor and the bypass relay to the left of it.

[Midnight Specialist]

Thank everyone for all the help. Seems that it was flooded and after waiting the night, it started up. I appreciate all the help.

[DMC5180]

Thank everyone for all the help. Seems that it was flooded and after waiting the night, it started up. I appreciate all the help.

[emoji106]

[Helirich]

Check the usual electrical suspects starting with the ballast resistor connections. If it wasn't hard to start before your fuel system work, you probably just bumped something loose.

This post saved me a lot of time. I was taking a test drive today for the brakes. I get a 1/4 mile down the road and I turn on the AC. Right then, the car quits. Of course I'm trying to think of why the AC shut the car off. I turn the AC off and try to start the car. It turns over but no fire. I opened the hood and thought of this thread. I wasn't working around the ballast, but looked there anyways. Low and behold, the plug is off. It must have vibrated off. I plugged it back and the car started right up. Lol.

Thanks for the help!