YAVOD (Yet Another Valley of Death) Teardown - Island Twin Turbo Edition

[kdumont]

Earlier this spring I turned over my DeLorean for the first time since early winter (went through some steps to winterize, like eth-free gas) and was greeted with coolant sludge pouring out of the valley of death. Decided to therefore take on the much-overdue project of getting down into VOD and touching things up.

I wanted to keep a bit of a log here and post any questions as they come up. I'm happy to update with more photos or info if folks are interested. I figured it might be a little unique since it's a relatively low VIN and twin-turbocharged.

Before:
67094

Removed Turbo Pipes & Rear Fascia
67095

Current State
67096

In general, I'm trying not to go too overboard here with restoration. I'd like to keep as much original as possible, but have decided to replace parts with stainless and silicone where it makes sense. As far as I know this is the first VOD teardown the car has seen. Pretty much everything is stock (except exhaust). I really want it to show well & want to fix enough to avoid another VOD teardown for at least 5yrs :wink:

Plan:
- Replacing all coolant hoses with silicone
- Buffing aluminum coolant hoses with high grit for a nice shine
- Replacing coolant reservoir? (see below)
- Replacing/rebuilding water pump (see below)
- Moving to Stainless New Style Water Pipe (hope this fits around the turbos!)
- Replacing fuel lines and banjo with stainless
- Painting VOD and Engine Block
- Replacing spark plugs
- Rebuilding idler pulleys (took off the AC belt and the pulleys are a bit crunchy)
- Replacing alternator? (see below)
- Replating yellow zinc components (see below)
- Rebuilding intake manifold - Stainless bolts, replace butterfly flange, paint, etc.

Questions:
- Anyone have recommendations for a good plating service (especially around NH)? I'm looking at doing a DIY yellow zinc plating because I'm really struggling to find someone to do a small batch zinc plating.
- Seems like replacing the coolant reservoir is pretty mandatory? I really like the look of the plastic, but don't want to risk it.
- Any suggestions for how much of the water pump to retain? Don't really want to spend too much time restoring this (happy to follow up with some pics once I tear it down). Currently planning on replacing everything except the Thermostat Cover.
- Alternator is actually 90A Motorola (I think this was done when the turbos were put in in the mid-'80s). It's leaking some mysterious goop and seems to be struggling to keep up with the AC on (though I never got around to checking with a DMM - tsk tsk). Replace it? I love all the options for new units - any suggestions for best alternative?
- Any suggestions for plugging the cylinders + coolant openings? I really want to scrub this thing, but I'm worried about getting contaminants where they don't belong. Really was hoping to find some 3D models to print for plugs...


Some stats:
VIN 1659
16500 miles
3-speed automatic
Island Twin Turbo

I also have a ton of reference guides and pictures I'm taking as I go. Currently building a Notion page, which I can publish as I go (if there is interest).

Thanks!!!

[DMC5180]

Goo from the Alternator is a pretty good indicator it’s done. Time for a replacement. Both of my Motorolas Original and replacement, eventually did that. I now have DMCH CS130 [emoji106]

Be cautious with Silicone hoses in the VOD. They can still leak. I suggest you get some Murry Constant tension clamps for silicone hose. Be sure to torque them to the manufacturer specifications for best results long term. I think you can get them from Jegs or Summit racing.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210830/fae73149c4e38c46be2eb82a25761209.jpg

I think most folks clean the mating surfaces at the ports then tape over the openings as required. A good sticky polyethylene or duct tape should be fine.

[dmcnc]

Questions:

- Seems like replacing the coolant reservoir is pretty mandatory? I really like the look of the plastic, but don't want to risk it.

If it was new and impecable I'd say keep it. But if it's dried out with heat stains, it's likely weakened enough to where it's not safe long term
- Any suggestions for how much of the water pump to retain? Don't really want to spend too much time restoring this (happy to follow up with some pics once I tear it down). Currently planning on replacing everything except the Thermostat Cover.


I went for a rebuild through Flying Dutchman (http://water-pump-rebuilders.com/contact.html). You'll get a higher quality seal and the impeller set to spec for optimal performance at idle. I do recommend sending it with a new pulley as the old ones shouldn't be reused
- Alternator is actually 90A Motorola (I think this was done when the turbos were put in in the mid-'80s). It's leaking some mysterious goop and seems to be struggling to keep up with the AC on (though I never got around to checking with a DMM - tsk tsk). Replace it?

Just replace the regulator (https://www.ebay.com/itm/263333886330?hash=item3d4fec397a:g:dtkAAOxyNDxRX1V u) (held on by two screws in the back) and the brushes (https://www.maniacelectricmotors.com/74101404.html) (under the regulator).

[kdumont]

Goo from the Alternator is a pretty good indicator it’s done. Time for a replacement.

Got it! If it's leaking goo, time to renew.


Be cautious with Silicone hoses in the VOD. They can still leak. I suggest you get some Murry Constant tension clamps for silicone hose. Be sure to torque them to the manufacturer specifications for best results long term. I think you can get them from Jegs or Summit racing.

This is super neat. I was going off Dave's notes (http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?4968-Hose-clamp-torque) and ordered stainless clamps. Was planning on pressure testing before building everything back up, but I guess I can't be too sure things aren't going to change with temperature and vibration.


A good sticky polyethylene or duct tape should be fine.

Alright, good to know. Wanted to use some gorilla tape, but didn't know if that was a no-no.

[FABombjoy]

VOD paint never ever seems to hold up, regardless of prep or paint formula. I've seen a few sets of pics (and one car firsthand) of painted VODs that peeled and left paint shrapnel everywhere, possibly becoming moisture traps in the process.

You can double-clamp the VOD hoses too for extra security.

[kdumont]

Just wanted to update this thread. I've completed my teardown and after 10+ hours of cleaning and scrubbing...

I've gotten from this:
67170

To this, painted with PoR 15 Engine Enamel:
67171

And zinc plated as many parts as seemed reasonable at a local shop:
67172

[82DMC12]

Looks great!

I like the look of zinc plating and cad plating. There are some shops in Kansas City that do it but for some reason they only seem to want to plate new hardware. They don't offer a full service where you bring in your grimy old stuff and they clean it, prep it, and plate it. I know the guys at DMCMW have a guy nearby that does do the full service so I'll probably ship some stuff out to get done later this year. At that point I'll take as many brackets and crap as I can find to throw in and get done at the same time!!!

[kdumont]

Looks great!

I like the look of zinc plating and cad plating. There are some shops in Kansas City that do it but for some reason they only seem to want to plate new hardware. They don't offer a full service where you bring in your grimy old stuff and they clean it, prep it, and plate it. I know the guys at DMCMW have a guy nearby that does do the full service so I'll probably ship some stuff out to get done later this year. At that point I'll take as many brackets and crap as I can find to throw in and get done at the same time!!!

Thanks, yeah I had to call around a LOT to find a place that would do small batch zinc plating - had to drive down to MA because apparently you can't do that plating work in NH due to regulations.

I cleaned the parts up best I could with Brakeleen then found a local shop here in NH to bead-blast for $25, then drove the parts down to MA (Five Star Plating).

[Helirich]

Those pics are amazing!

[Mark D]

Just wanted to update this thread. I've completed my teardown and after 10+ hours of cleaning and scrubbing...

I've gotten from this:
67170

To this, painted with PoR 15 Engine Enamel:
67171

And zinc plated as many parts as seemed reasonable at a local shop:
67172

Looks really great! It's kind of amazing how transformed the parts look once they are all shiny and re-plated. Great work on that VOD cleanout as well. I've gotta get back in there one of these days on my car.

[kdumont]

Do these gaskets (https://store.delorean.com/102152-flange-gasket.html) (or others) require gasket seal, like permatex? Can't seem to find that documentation.

[DMC5180]

Do these gaskets (https://store.delorean.com/102152-flange-gasket.html) (or others) require gasket seal, like permatex? Can't seem to find that documentation.

They don’t require it. But some people like a belt and suspenders approach. Permatex great stuff is popular supplement that DMCMW uses in combination with the regular gaskets.

[kdumont]

It's been a lot of planning and cleaning, but finally making some progress. Here's the latest with...

- Y-pipe reinstalled
- new coolant reservoir installed
- new water pump
- all new silicone coolant hoses
- new stainless coolant temp sensor
- new spark plugs

All stainless bolts with anti-seize.

67278

For better or worse, the turbos are keeping things interesting... You might notice the alternator mounted on the top of engine instead of the bottom. I've actually been able to reverse the sides of the large coolant hoses going to the water pump (shorter one on the left, longer one on the right) to make room for the alternator and turbo pipes. It works ALMOST perfectly with the new replacement coolant temp sensor. It just sticks out about 5 inches too far with a right-angle fitting.

67279

My solution is to take ~2-3" off each end of this coolant pipe.

67280

I've called a local machine shop to see if they can put the ridge back in the coolant pipe, but honestly not sure how big of a deal this is.

In other news, I didn't realize the alternator belt is not the standard length (I should've checked), so I have a new one on order, as well as a longer tensioner. Once that's done I'll replace the rest of the fuel lines and start putting the air intake manifold back together.

[FABombjoy]

not sure how big of a deal this is.
It would be better to have than not.

Ask around and see if they have a bead roller, which is the best tool for the job. You can weld a bead on but that's way more prep & work. You might be able to find a local club on Facebook or something and someone might have a roller. I have one and am always looking for a chance to make the buy-in price worth it.

If so, you don't need to anneal original pipes as they will roll/bend cleanly as is. If you get stock 1.25" tube to make up a new section you will likely need to torch it first.

[Bitsyncmaster]

I replaced all my coolant pipes a long time ago. There are a few stock pipes without the bead. Looks like they had to cut those shorter to fit. I've not had any leakage with my silicone hoses on those pipes without the bead.