Super stuck upper A-arm pivot bolt

[82DMC12]

Today I took apart literally my entire front end down to the frame as the first step in a complete refurbishment of the front suspension. All was pretty good going until I got to removing the upper wishbone on the driver side. The pivot bolt is seriously stuck in there. I got the nut off no problem. But even with a long 1/2" breaker bar and a pipe on the end of it, I can't turn the bolt head. If I try to unscrew it (CCW) it is very hard to move and it seems to be lifting the wishbone up with it. I suspect the bolt is frozen in one or both of the bushings. I tried putting the nut back on just enough to cover the end of the screw and hit it with a hammer but of course with the underbody in the way it's hard to get a good solid whack.

Any ideas?? Currently soaking in PB Blaster at each crack between the bushings / frame/ washers / etc.

The passenger side pivot bolt came out easily.

67117

[cdrusn]

Use a hand held MAPP torch to heat it up. After a couple of heat and cool it will come out.

[82DMC12]

Thanks. I assume you mean heating up the bolt head, the channels it runs through under the wish bone, heating up the frame channel, etc? What does the heat do to the epoxy? I'm changing bushings so not worried about the rubber.

Sent from my Pixel 3a using Tapatalk

[cdrusn]

Heating the bolt breaks it loose from the rust or what ever is holding it in. The upper wishbone is not epoxy coated usually it is black in color, yours is grey so
it's been painted.

[82DMC12]

Heating the bolt breaks it loose from the rust or what ever is holding it in. The upper wishbone is not epoxy coated usually it is black in color, yours is grey so
it's been painted.

I'm out of MAPP (bought it for the Valley many years ago) so I'll grab another bottle today. I think it's just the flash on my camera - the underside of the wishbone is definitely painted black, but there's a thick layer of crud on the top that reflects somewhat grey under flash photo. Anyway, I'm going to get the bushings pressed out and have them powdercoated black once again.

Removing the original balljoints is a mega pain. Only think I can really do is destroy the four studs with a dremel cut off wheel! New ball joints are nut/bolt of course.

[David T]

MAPP doesn't get it hot enough. Oxy-Acetalyne is the way to go. Keep a wet rag and a spray bottle filled with water handy and do it in a well ventilated area with a fan because you will burn the rubber bushing.

[dn010]

MAPP gas works wonderfully if you use it with a TurboTorch tip.

[mrsandman]

I have a similar issue with my driver's side LCA. The nut is off and the bolt does not move. I've tried using a breaker bar and hammering on the other end, but the bolt does not budge. I have used various penetrating oils but with the bolt being 6 inches long, that is a bit to ask from them. I also tried heating up the bolt itself, but I only have propane at this point.

Thinking about my next steps:

Use a battery to heat the bolt corrosion. I tried this but the amount of arcing is a bit scary and I'm afraid I could weld the bolt internally.
Use a welder to heat the bolt, still afraid of welding the bolt internally.
Drill holes into the spacers to apply penetrant directly to the corrosion
Heat the bolt using MAPP
Something else?


82DMC12 - what worked for you?

[Bitsyncmaster]

I have a similar issue with my driver's side LCA. The nut is off and the bolt does not move. I've tried using a breaker bar and hammering on the other end, but the bolt does not budge. I have used various penetrating oils but with the bolt being 6 inches long, that is a bit to ask from them. I also tried heating up the bolt itself, but I only have propane at this point.

Thinking about my next steps:

Use a battery to heat the bolt corrosion. I tried this but the amount of arcing is a bit scary and I'm afraid I could weld the bolt internally.
Use a welder to heat the bolt, still afraid of welding the bolt internally.
Drill holes into the spacers to apply penetrant directly to the corrosion
Heat the bolt using MAPP
Something else?


82DMC12 - what worked for you?

With such a long bolt you probably can't heat it enough. On the transmission drain plugs, welding a larger nut on it with a MIG magically breaks all the corrosion.