Steering Bushing

[DMC-Ron]

I’m looking to replace my steering bushing. I don’t want to remove the steering column so I’m looking to split the bushing and slip it on. There are various choices available. DMC sells a Delrin (plastic) version. DGo offers a polyurethane version, a rubber option, and a Delrin version. The DGo instructions indicate the polyurethane and rubber bushings can be split and installed without removal of the steering column. Not so with the Delrin version. The DMC busing is out of stock so it’s a moot point to ask if they can be cut. What’s the best choice between poly and rubber, assuming you will be splitting the bushing? Does anyone have other tips or suggestions?

Ron

[Azar]

Hi Ron, I got the old bushing failed and split in to the pieces. Looks like it was a plastic one, definitely 10+years old. I got the replacement Delrin from DMCH last year but never installed it since it is really hard, I doubt it will go in without removing the column. I installed the rubber version of DelorenGo, splitting it on the "casting Mark" - so far so good but haven driven much miles with the car. It was not an easy job even it was a rubber one. So definitely use the advise to warm it up in the water and lubricate.

I still have the DMCH Delrin one new, let me know if you need it.

[camaro430sut]

My advise, go with the delrin one. It's not that hard of an install. I did mine in about an hour and a half. And then you'll never have to do it again.

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[WHO1DMC]

First off I'm by far not a machanic just a little handy. This year I probably did more things to my car than previous years. I've done 99.9 percent of the wrenching my self. With all the things I've done this year pulling the steering column to replace the bushing was not that bad.



Dave B.

[deloryan]

I’m looking to replace my steering bushing. I don’t want to remove the steering column so I’m looking to split the bushing and slip it on. There are various choices available. DMC sells a Delrin (plastic) version. DGo offers a polyurethane version, a rubber option, and a Delrin version. The DGo instructions indicate the polyurethane and rubber bushings can be split and installed without removal of the steering column. Not so with the Delrin version. The DMC busing is out of stock so it’s a moot point to ask if they can be cut. What’s the best choice between poly and rubber, assuming you will be splitting the bushing? Does anyone have other tips or suggestions?

Ron

I just did this job last week with the DGo delrin one. I did not have to remove the steering column fully. I found the instructions elsewhere on this forum. Basically, adjust the steering wheel all the way out. Then remove the trunk access cover to the clutch master cylinder. Now you can disconnect the knuckle by the clutch master. Be sure to mark the steering column between the knuckle joint so you know where to reconnect. You can turn the steering wheel so the knuckle bolt is fully accessible. With that knuckle bolt out completely, go to the inside of the car and slip the steering rod up into the adjustment sleeve. You can then move the steering column out of the way enough to put the new bushing in. I put some silicon grease around it but not sure that helped. It was pretty tight fit. What finally worked to pound it in was finding a tapered socket that would fit inside the hole. Then a long socket extension so I could hammer it in. Once bushing is in, slip the steering column back through the hole and into the knuckle. Make sure the steering wheel is turned to the same mark where it came out of the knuckle. Replace the knuckle bolt and you’re done.

[DMC-Ron]

Ryan,
Thanks for the excellent instructions. As you note, the method you describe seems a good shortcut to getting the steering column out of the way without fully removing it, and therefore allowing the Delrin bushing to be installed without cutting. This is a bit more work than the "quicker" technique listed on the Dgo website (see insert below). But it would provide a more “durable” solution using longer lasting hard Delrin plastic without splitting the bushing.

Here is the split method installation as described on the Dgo website:
We have found most times a quicker and easier way is that once you obtain the new bushing, you will see there is a casting mark on the bushing that runs across it. What you do is just on one side cut it so that it allows you to open up the bushing up like the letter "C". Then put the bushing in warm water to make it soft and apply some grease or lubricant around it (supplied), and then from inside the car, apply it in place and use a pry bar or large screw driver press it into place where it will actually lock into the firewall. For best results, orientate the split that you put in it to allow it to go around the column to the top so when you do lubricate it, the actual lubrication will go in and gives it a nice easy track to penetrate all the way around the shaft.

So, I would also appreciate hearing from any owners that have done the split technique; how it went, how long it took, whether rubber or poly was used, and how satisfying was the result.

Ron

[Azar]

Ron, this technique (splitting the bushing) will not work with Delrin. It is too hard, and as Ryan mentioned, it was not even easy to insert without the steering column in the way. DeloreanGo text is relevant to the polyurethane and rubber bushings.
And I have described my experience above. Hope this helps.

[DMC-Ron]

Ron, this technique (splitting the bushing) will not work with Delrin. It is too hard, and as Ryan mentioned, it was not even easy to insert without the steering column in the way. DeloreanGo text is relevant to the polyurethane and rubber bushings.
And I have described my experience above. Hope this helps.

Understood, and the Dgo website is clear that the split technique only applies to poly and rubber. I'm just looking to hear from someone that has used the split technique and read about their experience for comparison.

Ron

[camaro430sut]

Just food for thought. Going through the history on my car. It had a rubber bushing put in in 07. When I installed the delrin this spring it was 100% gone

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[Azar]

Just food for thought. Going through the history on my car. It had a rubber bushing put in in 07. When I installed the delrin this spring it was 100% gone

Sent from my SM-G996U using TapatalkHow many miles did you cover since then? Thanks.

[camaro430sut]

How many miles did you cover since then? Thanks.Unsure. Just a receipt for the bushing

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[Josh]

Do not split the bushing. It will not last long. The delrin one cannot be split anyway as it is not flexible. I am running the Delrin one, from Toby many years ago, works great. Dropping the column is not too much work.

[TheStoot]

I replaced mine w delorean go version last October with the polyurethane one, split it and installed no problems 5000 miles later

[MrChocky]

Don't forget about the internal bushing. It's brittle compared to the firewall one, and can crack or come loose, and when it does, it'll cause excess wear to the other. You'll
definitely have to pull the steering for this, but DGo do a Delrin one.

[mhanch]

Understood, and the Dgo website is clear that the split technique only applies to poly and rubber. I'm just looking to hear from someone that has used the split technique and read about their experience for comparison.

Ron

I did this for my car this year - it was a total piece of cake. took maybe 15 minutes - nothing removed, just split the poly bushing, and lubricated it. it took a bit of prying but eventually it popped into place.

[David T]

I did the Delran one a long time ago. I had to make a puller with pieces of pipe, washers, threaded rod and nuts to get that thing in. It doesn't "give" like poly or rubber. Once I got it in when I put the steering column back I couldn't turn the wheel. I had to file the hole to fit the angle of the shaft going through it so it would turn smoothly. If you drove for a while with the old one after it was destroyed the hole in the bulkhead would be enlarged so it will be easier to get that Delran one in. R & R ing the steering column isn't that bad. Don't cut the Delran one, it won't last as long. Be sure to mark the steering shaft and take pictures before taking it apart. You MUST actually remove the bolts in the U joints, not just loosen them up. When you are done be sure to check that you aren't hitting the A/C hose and it is secured out of the way.

[DL4567]

Around 15 years ago I replaced mine with a soft one from DMCH. It lasted only 1-2 years. Then I got a Delrin one from Toby DMCPNW, and it's still working in the car today. :thumbup:
Interesting that DMCH now also offers theirs in Delrin. Clearly that's the way to go.

It's worth the trouble of disconnecting the steering column if you have to. Just try to line up the splines as best you can on re-assembly, and get a steering wheel puller and adjust your wheel afterwards.

Fun fact: for the first replacement, I rented a puller from the auto store. When I needed to do it again 1-2 years later, I *bought* a puller. And I've never needed it again! haha (very glad though -- the Delrin is great)

[82DMC12]

Another vote for the delrin bushing here. I just inspected mine after about 15 years last weekend and it's still going strong. No big deal to realign the steering wheel. I just take it off (either with a puller or thread the nut back on halfway and use an air chisel to briefly brap-brap the steering column while pulling up on the wheel and it comes right off). Then when you're ready to check the steering wheel alignment, put the washer and nut back on finger-tight and take a drive down a good straight road. Stop and remove the wheel and realign it until it's perfect, then re-tighten when you get back home.

[DMC-Ron]

I just did this job last week with the DGo delrin one. I did not have to remove the steering column fully. I found the instructions elsewhere on this forum. Basically, adjust the steering wheel all the way out. Then remove the trunk access cover to the clutch master cylinder. Now you can disconnect the knuckle by the clutch master. Be sure to mark the steering column between the knuckle joint so you know where to reconnect. You can turn the steering wheel so the knuckle bolt is fully accessible. With that knuckle bolt out completely, go to the inside of the car and slip the steering rod up into the adjustment sleeve. You can then move the steering column out of the way enough to put the new bushing in. I put some silicon grease around it but not sure that helped. It was pretty tight fit. What finally worked to pound it in was finding a tapered socket that would fit inside the hole. Then a long socket extension so I could hammer it in. Once bushing is in, slip the steering column back through the hole and into the knuckle. Make sure the steering wheel is turned to the same mark where it came out of the knuckle. Replace the knuckle bolt and you’re done.

Ryan,
Good description. Thanks. I was hoping there would be enough room to install after sliding the steering rod up into the steering column. My upper universal connection to the steering column is rusty and I have been shooting it with PB Blaster for several days. Did you have any issue getting the column free from the universal fitting? Any tips?

Ron

67258

[MrChocky]

Ryan,
Good description. Thanks. I was hoping there would be enough room to install after sliding the steering rod up into the steering column. My upper universal connection to the steering column is rusty and I have been shooting it with PB Blaster for several days. Did you have any issue getting the column free from the universal fitting? Any tips?

Ron

67258

At risk of stating the obvious, the bolt has to come out before the column will pull out. It also took me several days to free it with it being rusty and all.

[deloryan]

There is a channel that the bolt slides into, so it does need to be removed completely. With bolt out, I did a slight twist with a screwdriver to try and widen the gap. Not sure that did anything, but the column slide out very easily. I didn’t have any rust to deal with.

[DMC-Ron]

Good tips. I had read in the workshop manual about removing the bolt. At least the manual helped with that. Not much else specific to replacing the bushing. And I appreciate the tip to widen the gap. Good idea.

Ron