1982 Frame Off Restoration [Archive] - Page 2 - DMCTalk Forum

SupercoolBill

11-13-2022, 08:08 AM

Checked around town for fine glass blasting media. All I could find is 80 GR at HF.
I was impatient and wanted to try thr thing out so I took the 80GR media out of my dry blaster figuring maybe it was so beat up at this point that maybe it was fine and not 80GR anymore.
Well unfortunately it was still to course. So I didn't get a nice semi-gloss finish. Instead the results on aluminum and brass pretty much looked like they did in my dry booth (go figure).
So the whole machine need to be drained, media removed, cleaned out. What a pain.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20221113/f3ff49941ab54bd8ff2047a366cecd6c.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20221113/c945668308c8c3148bffebb1f37b1b6d.jpg

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SupercoolBill

11-13-2022, 08:11 AM

I had to order the media so no wet blasting for a while. Shifted focus to getting the new parts cleaner set up. I feel bad about the gross parts I am going to send through this thing. I think that the previous owner either never used it or just used it to final clean parts that had already been pre-cleaned. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20221113/c87abeb4fd07c96960ad7491deddeef4.jpg

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SupercoolBill

11-22-2022, 04:19 PM

Now that I got the correct grit media the vapor blaster is working awesome!!
I did have to take some media out though because I was getting media into the clean water system. Makes it really hard to see through thr window in the machine when slurry is spraying out of the window washer nozzles.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20221122/a6156930cf8a94f5f3b4a002a03108da.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20221122/47a950e01ef86eb4566f5733ef22b096.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20221122/e575e09784178dfa4fd6e99cf8bb1cfb.jpg

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SupercoolBill

11-22-2022, 04:25 PM

Tried my hand at plating parts again.
I am really getting frustrated and discouraged with this. It is very time consuming waiting for everything to get to temperature, prepping thr parts, hanging all the parts, figuring out the correct settings for the power source, trying to not breath in or get on you these nasty chemicals.
Kind of wishing we just sent our stuff out to be plated. I may still end up just doing that. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20221122/ada33a78788ccedea855bb3ceea7e71a.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20221122/0e40a2b93d320ca2da1e6c7c8833c8f1.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20221122/5272045b247b0ed80bbece812da893c5.jpg

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82DMC12

11-22-2022, 04:25 PM

WOW that looks great. I think you found a side gig!

SupercoolBill

11-22-2022, 04:29 PM

I did the math for how many amps (6) I needed to send through the part during plating but the power source wouldn't go that high (even though I had it cranked way up). I think maybe it just isn't powerful enough for these larger cast metal pieces. I may end up just painting my calipers with gold engine paint.

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SupercoolBill

11-22-2022, 04:33 PM

More parts showed up today. Just about done buying parts for a while I think. We'll besides nuts and bolts and stuff like that.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20221122/89c7012d83c6031fd49c5f7bdc6baa69.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20221122/e44caff8bad61d2377cacd21d431d9cd.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20221122/af0c334dce3e9b32e8854dd9bc2b7d5a.jpg

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Mark D

11-23-2022, 10:49 AM

The vapor honed parts turned out great. I've seen similar results on a few youtube restoration channels and I've always been impressed. If I could justify the investment I'd love to get a cabinet someday.

For zinc plating I've also experimented, but ultimately sent parts out to a plating vendor to do it instead. I went through DMCMW and they have a local vendor they use. You can send just one or two parts and they'll batch them with other orders, or if you've got enough parts to do a separate run they'll plate all your parts together. Not sure if DMCMW still offers that service or not.

I sent all my exhaust and chassis brackets, wheel hubs, brake calipers, etc. and they were plated in zinc with yellow dichromate conversion coating. The nuts, bolts, and other hardware were zinc plated with clear dichromate.

82DMC12

11-23-2022, 12:03 PM

SupercoolBill

11-27-2022, 06:31 PM

Worked on the project yesterday for a good part of the day. The wife (Tammie) showed up with the dog and helped for a while. I showed her how to use the vapor blaster so she worked on vapor blasting parts while I jumped back and forth between dry blasting parts and trying to plate parts.
Steering rack mounts didn't come out well. I had some luck on some bolts that came not great but okay.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20221127/acfa53892e9e3069ada30a429242937f.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20221127/4c343138678baddb2c0aecbd20cf761c.jpg

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SupercoolBill

11-27-2022, 06:43 PM

My low foaming Simple Green came in so I was able to use the parts cleaner finally. This thing is a GAME CHANGER!! I have done so many projects through the years that this would have been so good for. I did find though that even with the small amount of cleaner I added to the water it still got foam on the window so it was difficult,...sometimes impossible to see what you were doing after a few minutes of aggressive cleaning. I may end up installing a windshield wiper at some point. The key to this working well is the high pressure nozzle and the water at 125 degrees.
I installed a garden hose on the mezzanine and I am glad I did. It comes in really handy for cleaning the glass in the parts cleaner, rinsing parts before they come out of the vapor blaster, topping off water in chemical buckets, etc. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20221127/d09d15740c30771d5018c8ab482b7a23.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20221127/788c28059ea6c41821de16aa77ad11f4.jpg

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SupercoolBill

11-27-2022, 06:47 PM

As the day wore on I had more and more issues with plating. Weird patterns, metal flakes ending up on the surface of the stuff I plated, etc. So I pretty much decided to paint a lot of parts that was planning on plating before. I think having them painted will make them hold up better over time anyways. Here is a bunch of parts that I blasted that I am now going to paint.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20221127/657cf98fa972230758885835c7b927f1.jpg

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SupercoolBill

11-27-2022, 06:59 PM

Today I just finished prepping parts for paint and painted them. Hand panted some steel parts that are connected to aluminum parts that were blasted.

I am having failed uploads when I pick medium quality for pics with lots of objects in them so I have to reduce some of them to low. Kind of a pain but you get the point (casein point the pic with all the parts hanging on the front of the forklift).https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20221127/922b5ed40678cfed4ec8b14dc816466e.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20221127/c9470677dc3764bb2b5f36541cabd790.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20221127/4c1ebc5956141982a7b5efe70aec0245.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20221127/5c050a7a71a11089e5359f5c661b6fed.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20221127/69b4826221fbbdd1af935fe7a758f785.jpg

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SupercoolBill

11-27-2022, 07:10 PM

I watched some you tube videos of people plating. These guys are spending a LOT of time on this. One video I watched the guy (someone that professional restores old motocross motorcycles) spent like an hour on one bolt. He first cleaned it the threads with a wire wheel, then he used two different scotchbrite wheels on it, then he vapor blasted it, then he degreased it, then he replaced his zinc plates with new ones because the ones he had were kind of gray looking and he claimed that his bolt would look that way if he didn't change them, then he dipped the bolt in acid, he rinsed it, he put it in the plating bath until it was plated, then he took it out and rinsed it, then he polished it, then he dipped it in acid then water, then he dipped it in the yellow chromate.
Basically every part needs to have a bunch of prep work or it comes out like crap. Everything in the plating set up needs to be perfect...or it comes out like crap. You need to have the amperage figured correct and have the item in the bath the correct amount of time or......you guessed it....it comes out like crap. Ugh.....

I swear this guys bolt is worth $100 now!!!

I don't know if I have the patience or the time for all that.

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Stainless

11-28-2022, 02:43 PM

I don't know if I have the patience or the time for all that.

I certainly didn't have the patience for all that either. I went with what I was comfortable with, which was paint. This time last year, I was in the thick of it with regards to putting everything back together after having to pull out the engine and tranny due to a broken engine mount bolt and decided to make everything look pristine before going back into the car. I documented it all here (http://deloreanblog.blogspot.com/2022/02/before-and-after-delorean-restoration.html), if you're curious what my paint and end result turned out like. A year later and it all looks unchanged. It has held up exceptionally well and would highly recommend.

SupercoolBill

12-18-2022, 07:57 PM

I certainly didn't have the patience for all that either. I went with what I was comfortable with, which was paint. This time last year, I was in the thick of it with regards to putting everything back together after having to pull out the engine and tranny due to a broken engine mount bolt and decided to make everything look pristine before going back into the car. I documented it all here (http://deloreanblog.blogspot.com/2022/02/before-and-after-delorean-restoration.html), if you're curious what my paint and end result turned out like. A year later and it all looks unchanged. It has held up exceptionally well and would highly recommend.I read your thread. I really wanted to replicate the original plating but painting is looking better all the time.

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SupercoolBill

12-18-2022, 08:10 PM

Tried my hand at plating again last weekend and also blasted more parts. I think I figured out my biggest issue. When I was doing multiple parts such as 4 bolts at once, I didn't have my amperage set high enough so the zinc plating was coming out dull. I still struggle with getting the gold color to come out consistent. Also h
I have learned that my DC power generator cannot provide enough amperage for larger parts. 4 maybe 5 amps is the most it will do. I think I will use my plating set up for little parts that I don't want to risk sending out to the platers but everything else is getting sent out. The throttle assembly shown in the pics is beyond the limit of what my DC power source can handle. It looks oksy with the gold but as you can see the zinc didn't come out well.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20221219/3c2f90d907487cde96622e86cf18a42b.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20221219/e2c3eb0dfa8dbbae71a86cc36aa1e2f6.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20221219/c9e37b8117fccedfeddd2144bd38762f.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20221219/c71ece1017f13badf2302225618a142d.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20221219/f5c57b27035b38b6ff470becccebf4eb.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20221219/bb18a2eee4966c8d514bbe8a4569159d.jpg

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SupercoolBill

01-01-2023, 04:15 PM

Update,...it's been a while. Christmas has come and gone,...2022 is over.
Most previous posts made it look as though the parts re-plating process is going great. Well the truth is it is not. My success rate is still not that great and my DC power source doesn't seem to put out enough current for larger pieces. By larger I mean the engine compartment latch mechanism for example. It plated but came out dull. Also I am worried about the longevity of the plating since I am not 100% sure that I am doing it right. So I decided to make a list of all of the hardware for the car that needs to be replaced so I could order that stuff. I contacted a small family owned plating company that is about an hour away. They couldn't give me a quote over the phone so I decided to run some errands and swing in to get a quote and drop off the parts. I looked up the price for the larger bolts and decided that it would be more cost effective to have these parts re-plated. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230101/535c5b4736a9015641305b6ea801c028.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230101/cc96ceebb95b80f8ed8641b1dfa28c6a.jpg

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SupercoolBill

01-01-2023, 04:37 PM

Upon arriving at the plating place (nothing more than a two car garage that had been converted into a plating business) I met the owner...an older man (60s?) named Lloyd. He took a quick look at my parts and said "This stuff isn't ready to plate!?"
I said "Yeah it is, I cleaned them myself in my blasting booth." This wasn't starting out too well. He said "Do you think I'm BSing you??" I said,..."Well not exactly but these parts were covered with rust that I blasted off down to bare metal. So how is there zinc on it?"
He was very patient with me and wasn't easily offended. He said "Come here let me show you something"
He took one of my parts (a large bolt) hooked it on some wire, and dropped it down into a tank of muriatic acid. The bolt started foaming up (see picture) He said "See that? That's the zinc coming off. If there wasn't anything on the bolt it wouldn't do that. Let's leave that for a while then come back" I was still skeptical.
A few minutes later we came back and he showed me how it wasn't foaming (off gassing) anymore. He took the bolt out, rinsed it, dipped it back in. He said "See that? No foaming, the zinc is gone now. I will have to do this with all of your parts."

This is a classic example of a teaching moment with someone that is an expert. Everything I had read, watched, etc. Said just to dunk the part in the acid before plating. I had never heard about leaving the part in there until it stopped foaming completely. Honestly I thought if you left it in there too long the acid would start eating through the actual part.

He gave me an price of around $500 to do the parts I brought. This was a lot more than I was expecting but the guy had already volunteered an hour of his time to show me his shop and teach me some stuff about plating, etc.
Also I knew my stuff would come out perfect so I left my parts to be plated.

I still have all the parts off the engine and transmission, hood latches, etc. So I'm probably looking at $1000 total in plating....ugh......https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230101/121251af281d1fedbab5cf4daba8fc65.jpg

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SupercoolBill

01-01-2023, 04:44 PM

I had dropped off some parts at a local guy that does blasting with agressive medis and does powdercosting. I dropped off the rear suspension links to be blasted only (Rubbers still in), the sway bar, and the rear crosslink for blasting and powder coating. I was worried about the connector bar because it was so rusted. It was pitted and flaky.
Sure enough you can see and feel the rust damage to the connector bar. Fortunately because of the location I don't think that anyone will notice that the bar isn't perfect. I figure if it really bothers me that much I could replace it later. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230101/8e951736a6c5db5a56b1a60f204fea5e.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230101/0918fe360992a837a443ffe81a24133d.jpg

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SupercoolBill

01-01-2023, 05:00 PM

The other thing I did was print out the entire Delorean parts manual (260 pages), three hole punched the pages, and put it in a 3-ring binder.
Next I spent a night highlighting every nut, bolt, washer, screw that I needed for the entire car.
I typed up a spreadsheet of what I needed for hardware with part number, description, etc.
I emailed the list to Arron at Delorean Go and asked if he could put all the stuff in my virtual cart. Unfortunately he said that I would have to do it on my end but he gave me some pointers. He said I could type in a whole bunch of part numbers separated by a comma, hit search, and all of those parts would populate. It worked pretty well but still took several hours to get everything in my cart. I added a shifter cable to my order also. I was up to $260 so I held off on buying hardware for the engine, transmission, and interior. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230101/4e3d897dacfa114d3a2aac722510dc76.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230101/9fc8aa2bf8f117ba1bff3cc776c59d8a.jpg

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SupercoolBill

01-01-2023, 05:04 PM

In true Delorean Go fashion the parts showed up very quickly.
The best thing about going this route vs. buying bolts from a place that sells hardware (not a Delorean parts vendor) is that every part is bagged and tagged with a Delorean part number. So the wife and I can literally just follow the Delorean parts manual and grab the bags with the correct part numbers when assembling that particular part of the car. Also there are no risk of issues with a bolt not being the right size, shank length, etc.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230101/e2baa3f0f5189201c89bfe9dbb1b19eb.jpg

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SupercoolBill

01-01-2023, 05:24 PM

I have misplaced a oil cooler pipe support bracket and the left transmission mount. Both were damaged (stripped threads and lots of rust on bracket and transmission mount bracket broken in half).
My worry is that I may have assumed that I could buy new replacement parts and threw these parts away.
I have looked everywhere and can't find either part. And guess what? Both parts are NLA. [emoji53] https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230101/7eec08fbd574f828c0846564f01d5317.jpg

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SupercoolBill

01-01-2023, 05:26 PM

I was lucky enough to find someone that had a good used bracket and transmission mounting bracket to sell me. Life is good!!

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SupercoolBill

01-08-2023, 07:11 AM

Finally started the reassembly process on the car. First step was to closely examine the replacement frame and fix any chips or loose epoxy. I bought some gray RTV and up am just going to use that for the little chips here and there. Worst spot is where the LCA were allowed to push down into the front closing plate when the suspension was disassembled (before I received it). That required some straightening of the metal.
Felt around inside the engine cradle area and discovered delaminating epoxy so tried to break off, break up, and pull out as much as I could. Found some zinc rich paint and borrowed the spray head/nozzle off my 3M cavity wax. It made a huge mess but I think I managed to get the inside painted. Next I will use the actual cavity wax to coat inside there also. It's frustrating that this happens to these frames as they get older. Even a "good frame" has hidden issues. I am starting to understand why Josh B. and others have given up on stock frames.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230108/44d494699a6c0d639b54e4b000a7cadc.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230108/6eebc5151f9c33db4a665be30de0feea.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230108/2c320be16160e72f79b45cfba745999e.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230108/a64013d29cefc2b7377c5aa4694a9e5b.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230108/cc08197311cef22bcdaf50febffc590a.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230108/59c4c3fc533031b93c8b500fe07645f5.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230108/7ca4901c85fdcc1cf719c7f6731cab82.jpg

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SupercoolBill

01-08-2023, 12:36 PM

Forgot to post about painting suspension links and transmission rubber mounts. Painted with engine paint. Primer, gloss black, then clear. They didn't come out perfect but I need to give up on perfection or we will never get this car back together. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230108/d2a561458e4dd6caa4e5853e0eceee55.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230108/a3506d4c9754df4dc6f922c4d1f9f5af.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230108/92977a75a9ce52d9c68aaffacee03654.jpg

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SupercoolBill

01-08-2023, 12:43 PM

"NLA" parts showed up. I have realized how vastly different zinc with yellow chromate plating can look. It depends on how long it is dipped into the yellow chromate. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230108/232049ae8d7e285404cf50d89420d3e2.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230108/b7147c896bd02288a8b52c2010d93cff.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230108/3fbc9dc727c6b615551631a0014de145.jpg

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SupercoolBill

01-08-2023, 12:50 PM

Last yesterday afternoon the wife and I focused on trying to figure out and install the fuel lines, vacuum line, and tank vent line. One frustration with a lot of the aftermarket parts that I have purchased is the lack of any instructions on how to install them. It wastes a lot of time and is frustrating to try to figure this stuff out. Also I would appear that our kit is missing some connector fittings. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230108/1f113dced2050a221665d7d4fbb452e2.jpg

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SupercoolBill

01-08-2023, 01:04 PM

I never really liked the cheapo plastic fuel line clips that came on the car originally. I had a thought of instead using stainless steel P shaped clips with rubber in them. I was further encouraged to go this route when I stumbled upon a video on YouTube where a guy installed his lines with this same exact method. So I had ordered a kit of SS rivnuts, a kit of S P clips, and SS 6mm socket head screws. The wife removed the old clip bushings and drilled the holes larger while I installed the rivnuts. I couldn't find my own rivnut tool so I had to borrow one. I got one rivnut installed no problem but then after that everytime I started to do the final tightening something in the tool would go "BANG" and I'd have to retighten. I thought I had broke the tool internally but after like five rivnuts, realized what was happening. The threaded part of the tool was pulling out of the threads in the rivnuts....not good!!! After checking things out I determined that either the male threaded part of the tool was made too small or the rivnuts female threads were too large,...or a little of both. If the rivnuts were aluminum or even mild steel this wouldn't be an issue but the SS rivnuts pull hard. I ended up having to run a tap through the rivnuts that had been installed thus far...fun.
Around this same time the wife had started installing the fuel lines with the new clips and I didn't like how it was coming out. So we stopped and reassessed the situation. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230108/37eec5d17880def9e15f2efcf38564dd.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230108/1bf1313073055d50be1ded091dddd94b.jpg

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SupercoolBill

01-08-2023, 01:20 PM

The issue that I was seeing with my plan (besides the rivnuts not cooperating) was that the P clips installed into the same holes that the original lines were clipped into, offset the fuel lines by around 3/4".
Not that might not seem like much but these lines are pre-bent to fit where the original lines went. On the ones that had two lines on a double clip instead of the two lines running right close together (normally an 1/8" gap) now they were way the heck apart. Unfortunately I didn't take any pictures which would have been helpful for explaining this. My wife grabbed a large P clip put it around two lines and said "Why can't we just do this". I have to admit, I kind of cringed at first, acted like I didn't hear her, and kept trying to figure out another way to do it like drilling new holes and staggering the P clips. But that was a lot more holes in the frame and on some psrts there wasnt enough space to do this.
Then I got thinking. She may be onto something. What if we went with a slightly larger P clip but reshaped to hold two lines properly? [emoji848] Then we could drill new holes in the frame offset from the original holes. Instead of using the troublesome rivnuts I could just drill and tap the frame. After all they are fuel lines...not suspension or steering parts. So that is what we did. I taped two 5/16" bolts together then shaped the 1/2" clips around the bolts.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230108/ac3607ce6dd2bbc34efa7f544e53a1df.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230108/8432937e7a32271edc2af6b13687b084.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230108/1633e056debca3b82af56e195d57116f.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230108/18633f704aa78456055e8fd14c179a28.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230108/a4db1337f8a29f05b412fb599e0d8acd.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230108/647d17a62637472fe5a8950ad2dbe73a.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230108/c9ca6f23b3fc8d9d0a6efbb14f8d05ee.jpg

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SupercoolBill

01-08-2023, 01:24 PM

During a 5 mile run in 17 degree temperatures a friend of mine that also restores old cars and stuff said "Why didn't you just rivet the P clips with some nice big aluminum rivets?"
Hmmm....after we know we have everything where it needs to be I may just do that. Especially since some parts of the frame that we drilled and tapped were pretty thin and as my wife was tightening the bolts at one point she said "This one just keeps spinning" [emoji37]

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SupercoolBill

01-09-2023, 09:10 PM

I decided to spray inside the frame voids with body cavity wax and some fluid film. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230110/ed0fadcf44df2b98b23ff86e60c8f742.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230110/dbe0da6314161662f9d932117467c35d.jpg

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SupercoolBill

01-09-2023, 09:16 PM

I noticed some more damaged epoxy coating. I thought that this was caused by people jacking up the car with a jack that doesn't have something on it to spread the weight but when I posted it on a Delorean FB page multiple people said that their car has never been jacked up like that yet still has the same damage. This project is dragging on forever so I decided to just chip off the loose epoxy with a screwdriver then paint the frame with zinc rich primer then gloss gray paint. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230110/a7adb720700bf75bb9cc850a9f014f7f.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230110/8db51672ad2d94664113a739b4276dd3.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230110/872ffd7991b9cb1127798a1c3b34cffc.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230110/6e6f3641ce0028251ce63b80d4c0ba1a.jpg

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SupercoolBill

01-09-2023, 09:25 PM

I located my fuel filter, accumulator, and fittings. I forgot that I had purchased some nice replacement fittings locally. I can't find my tee and elbow with a barb connection so I'll have to buy those. Mine were probably corroded badly anyways. I put never seize on the threads but not on the face of the connections.
The replacement fitting that I bought for the fuel filter inlet is SS which is nice. It is however straight thread not tapered thread like the original was. I installed the new one with fuel proof gasket sealer on the threads and a nitrile o--ring. Gonna give it a shot. If it leaks then I will go back to the original tapered thread design. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230110/45b6f3ad3e77a918237aff587cc7a9f9.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230110/ba2b72baf5c2aa1f80343e24c17d4081.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230110/cd658f894175afbc3f8c92f1139a48be.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230110/eca878d3324dd52078b07947c2651294.jpg

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SupercoolBill

01-09-2023, 09:34 PM

I started trying install the DPI fuel line kit. It is very confusing without any directions or pictures or tags on the lines. Right off the bat I had issues trying to get these bulkhead type fittings into the holders on the frame. It was way too tight of a fit. I tried chamfering the edges in hopes of it sliding in easier. I tried using the nut on the fitting to pull the fitting into holder. Unfortunately instead of pulling into the holder it stripped out the threads. Bummer....I wonder how long it will take to get another one of those...https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230110/39adde285031434301869cfebe206bf6.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230110/a9ae8f33e2946f1ab84127a3c70b46ed.jpg

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AussieDMC

01-10-2023, 07:13 PM

That fitting on the frame is for the flexible brake hoses that go to each caliper.

SupercoolBill

01-11-2023, 03:05 PM

That fitting on the frame is for the flexible brake hoses that go to each caliper.This is part of a kit. These are the fittings that go into the holders with this kit.

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SupercoolBill

01-11-2023, 03:32 PM

Well, yesterday was a very frustrating day. I drove an hour to pick up my parts that i had plated only to be completely disappointed. When I picked up the parts, i was impressed with how every part was individually wrapped in gift paper like you put in a birthday gift bag. I assumed the parts would be stunningly beautiful, so I paid the lady at the plating shop the $590 that I owed them.
I drove for 15 minutes then couldn't stand it anymore. I had to see how awesome these parts came out. Much to my surprise and utter disappointment, they looked horrible. They looked worse than my worst plating attempt. So I turned around and went back to the place. Now,...something that you should know about me is that I hate confrontation. I avoid it at all costs. I get reslly stressed out and either avoid being assertive, or I just snap and go off on the person.
Anyways I went back and brought my parts in and said, "Uh...this aint right." The woman said, "The owner said that he told you that the pieces wouldn't come out right because you blasted the parts."
We went back and forth, and finally, I said, "I will leave my parts here for the owner to look at but I need my money back" She gave me my money back and I left.
Half an hour later, the owner called me all bent out of shape. He said he wanted me to come back and talk to him about it. I went back (which is the last thing I felt like doing) and got in a heated argument with him.
Basically, I feel like he didn't send enough current through the parts to properly plate them thick enough and quick enough for them to come out looking good.
He, on the other hand, blamed the poor results on my prep work,...namely glass bead blasting the parts.
It was super awkward, but I left with parts and my money. He kept saying over and over, "I don't rip people off!"
I never once said or insinuated that he was trying to rip me off. So that was kind of interesting [emoji848]. I just kept saying "How is it that I plated similar parts, off the same car, prepped the same exact way, in my $300 hobby plating kit and got them to come out really nice but the stuff you did looks really bad ,"because I prepped it wrong"?" "It doesn't make sense"
The only part that came out somewhat okay is the fuel filler.
My wife and I own a small service business with 5 employees, so we wear a lot of hats. We have been overwhelmed and understaffed for over a year now. Needless to say, I don't have a lot of free time to be wasting. So it really sucks to have wasted so much time on this part of the project.
So now I am back to trying to plate the parts myself or find another place to bring my parts. I was referred to another shop that is nearby, so I have emailed them.
Fun stuff.
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Stainless

01-11-2023, 06:04 PM

Dang. This is making me more and more grateful that I just went down the route of painting instead of plating. I'm sorry it's been such a long ordeal. I hope you can find a way to get it done in a way you'll be happy with.

AussieDMC

01-11-2023, 07:35 PM

You are trying to fit parts of the fuel line kit into holders on the frame that are for the brakes. Those holders are for where the metal brake lines attach to the flexible lines. The flexible lines then go to the caliper/s.
The metal fuel lines run along the top of the frame on the passenger side, they then attach to the flexible lines which go the the pump/sender.

Mark D

01-12-2023, 12:04 PM

I would have been really disappointed with the plating results as well, especially considering what you paid.

Your own attempts seem to have turned out way better, so you know it was possible to have them not turn out with the blasting prep you did. If the guy really knew what he was doing he would have tested a few parts first, then made adjustments along the way to improve the results, then refinished anything that didn't turn out before turning the parts back over to you.

I prepped my parts similar to how you did yours, although I used aluminum oxide blasting media and not glass beads. But the parts were still rough, had pitting from rust on some parts, and overall end results were still great. If I had to do it all over I would have done some sanding on the flat sheet metal parts to try and remove some of the pitting, and then re-blasted for an even surface.

The shop that DMCMW uses seems to have the process down, because all of my parts turned out nice and bright yellow finish.

SupercoolBill

01-12-2023, 08:01 PM

SupercoolBill

01-12-2023, 08:04 PM

SupercoolBill

01-12-2023, 08:06 PM

Mark D

01-13-2023, 02:58 PM

I checked my records and the plating itself was $180. To ship the heavy parts I used USPS large flat rate boxes and it cost $50 to ship to DMCMW. Return shipping was $85 but that also included some other parts I bought.

This was back in 2012 though, so I imagine the plating cost has gone up since then. I'd guess it would probably be around $300 today, plus another $100 or so for shipping. If you're interested you could give DMCMW a call to see if they could give you a quote.

I remember back when Dave was running DMCMW he told me if I had just a few pieces they'd hang on to them until they could batch them together with more parts. But I had enough stuff of my own to justify a run of clear zinc for all the bolts, and yellow zinc for the rest.

I stripped and sand blasted everything myself so that also helped bring the cost of plating down. The suspension parts and steering rack were powder coated by a local shop and it looks like I paid around $250 to have all that done.

https://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=30009&d=1407857642

https://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=40743&d=1457714987

https://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=40744&d=1457714988

SupercoolBill

01-14-2023, 08:45 PM

SupercoolBill

01-14-2023, 08:58 PM

Worked on what we could today. Still waiting for parts that were missing from some "kits" we purchased from D-Industries. Hopefully they will be here soon so we can put the gas tank in, finish the fuel lines, etc.
Not sure if I had brain fog today or what but the D-Ind. flexible brake line kit was very complicated and confusing to me. I really wish it came with instructions. Andy Lien (82 DMC12) was a huge help as I messaged him like 50 times while trying to figure out how to install the brake line kit.
I'm still a bit on the fence with the "all flexible" brake line set up. The way my brain work I would rather have been sold a hard pipe SS brake line kit. Josh said this is the best system out there so I am going to trust that he is right and try not to let it bother me that it isn't hard piped. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230115/82c7151462c1e6839d7956a2a6e06271.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230115/f7ffb6e6d412ff038ab0ecd784e0c0ca.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230115/f26e4a21ce61dfceb29a4bb3b2db356e.jpg

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SupercoolBill

01-14-2023, 09:15 PM

Installed the "Bullitproof" rebuilt steering rack that we bought from D-Ind. Well, my wife actually did most of the work to get it in place with the mounts. There was a lot of yelling...she was having fun lol.
The rack is a beautiful piece of work all ready to bolt in. Really glad I didn't spend a bunch of time attempting to rebuild our original steering rack. We installed new poly mounting bushings, new SS fender washers, and SS nylon lock nuts. Yes we put anti-sieze on the threads. The wife torqued down the mounts and one of the nuts just kept spinning. So we took that bracket (drivers side) back off the car. The nut was stripped and the threads on the mount were pretty bad. I showed her how to use a die and she ran it over the threads. One thing that I noticed when I was cleaning up the mounts in the bead blasting booth was that the threaded part of both mounts was kind of thin on the first 1/2",...I am assuming from rust. In hindsight for the cost we probably should have just replaced them. What we ended up doing is stacking some SS washers so that the nuts (new SS nuts) would bite on a good section of the threads. Less threads now hang out past the lock nuts but there is plenty enough for the nylock nuts to do thier job.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230115/9e3eacb643bc8caf56f243bf611f3e03.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230115/7c0a2fa7a2908ae25153b376a15dbdba.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230115/3518861c69dd8300900c190c02b0c180.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230115/6b82c7c2028c32add22de2192bf0f78a.jpg

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Mark D

01-15-2023, 04:31 PM

Wow that's cheap. Did they plate the inside of the caliper bores? Just wondering if it hurts anything to have the inside plated.

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Yeah they were plated inside and out. Won't hurt anything to have plating inside the bores.

SupercoolBill

01-15-2023, 04:56 PM

Yeah they were plated inside and out. Won't hurt anything to have plating inside the bores.I wouldn't think so but I've seen people trying to mask them off and I wondered if it was really an issue.

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SupercoolBill

01-18-2023, 08:09 AM

We are missing the fittings to join together the stainless steel lines that we got from DPI and it is holding up the project so I went to a local store that sells pipe fittings. This is the same place that sold me the fancy fittings for my fuel accumulator.
They figured out what I needed for a flare union. I also purchased a new compression tee and 90 degree elbow. Not sure if those were supposed to be included in my DPI SS fuel line kit or not but the ones that came off the car were in rough shape so I got new ones. Buying these fittings local is not cheap. I paid around $60 for just a few fittings.
The one thing that they didn't have were the compression by barbed adapters and I can't seem to locate the ones that came off the car. I'll probably end up getting the adapters from one of the Delorean parts vendors because I don't know what the actual size and official name is for the fittings. Delorean people call them a "Fuel Fir Tree" fitting. I am not sure if that is necessarily the official name for one of those fittings or not. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230118/96ca84e54e17a254726f90f8e91e6225.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230118/65a967284ac122c34d56e0774006404a.jpg

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SupercoolBill

02-02-2023, 07:22 PM

We are still waiting to receive the following parts that were missing from the parts we purchased from Delorean Industries: the special clip nuts for the gas tank closing plate, the special cresent shaped washers for the axle shafts, two aluminum coolant tubes, and a couple other things. It has been four months since the original purchase. At this point these missing parts are holding up the project. Frustrating to say the least.
Until the missing parts show up we will take the parts that need to be replated off from the engine and transmission so we can send everything out at once to be re-plated.

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SupercoolBill

02-18-2023, 03:54 PM

Earlier this week we received an email saying that most of our missing parts are being mailed out. I surely hope that is the case.
I picked up some heater hose at Napa for the pieces of hose that wrap around the coolant hoses to protect them from damage.

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SupercoolBill

02-18-2023, 04:00 PM

I just had my old flourecent lights in the shop replaced with super bright LED lights with motion sensors. What a difference!
I saw someone posting on FB about some S.S. anti-rattle springs for the rear brakes. These were not being offered by one of the Delorean vendors and they were only $20 ,so I figured I'd better just buy them.
If anyone else is looking for a set the sellers name on FB is Ryan Foster. I guess that Rob Grady used to sell them also. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230218/a08e953e40b5a8bbdfee8afd081dd905.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230218/284ba9079a80729c97d91eb238838b12.jpg

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SupercoolBill

02-18-2023, 04:08 PM

Thursday night after work we worked on trying get the parts that need to be replated removed from the engine and transmission and also separating the transmission from the engine. I tried to get out the Y Pipe bolts without snapping them but they ended up just breaking. There is one bolt that is blocked by a threaded bung on the exhaust. What a stuipid design.
I am not too concerned about trying to save the old exhaust because we have a new full SS exhaust for the car.
I had purchased a new shift cable for the car just assuming that I'd need it. We'll I'm glad I did. It looks like it has been rubbing on something and wore right through the outer sleeve.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230218/94a4c1a3fa4b1426a2fc93e486c2bd41.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230218/8f131575f0734531dff65994ab02e00f.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230218/287171dfa2ae92e6b46981404b87ced8.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230218/c52de58f00dea417697bba31e8cf78ae.jpg

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SupercoolBill

02-18-2023, 04:17 PM

We have been spraying down bolts on the transmission and engine for months but unfortunately, even with heat, two bolts snapped off. One on the starter and one of the top bell housing bolts. The remnants of the bolt looked like it was bonded to the aluminum transmission housing. So I drilled out the bolt. I tried to stop short of drilling out the bolt all the way to the engine. My hope is that after the transmission is removed there will be enough of a nub to grab onto to try and back the broken bolt out of the engine block.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230218/27cdf72375d968237bea08d2ae0c1471.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230218/7fe7b357fad93fcbd060becd256932b6.jpg

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SupercoolBill

02-18-2023, 04:21 PM

During this work we found SO MANY bad electrical connections and wires. Not sure how this car was running when the guy parked it. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230218/78cc063ad1d7b9fe306c4933df7cc5cd.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230218/80c130102a84cfee31bdf3de26f2fd5a.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230218/6364b9860842dcf5d7d1a0fe69137189.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230218/24970f0c92b084ef1b8609ededd2c8b8.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230218/46b1d2a9d28ff47bb8e60f85df696efd.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230218/dba4173d28d9e7eec6500b25cde98ef0.jpg

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SupercoolBill

02-18-2023, 04:24 PM

This thing is SO RUSTY!!! https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230218/c328e248e717d46fc6d0b44841796770.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230218/aad5d392185edc7c99b8b03a01a9ff20.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230218/814aace95b9bdb0e5bb8c1abb607cdf4.jpg

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SupercoolBill

02-18-2023, 04:28 PM

I am really loving these new lights in the shop.

We tried to get the transmission to separate from the engine and it wouldn't budge. We haven't drilled out the broken starter bolt yet. I don't really see how the starter would stop the transmission from separating from the engine....at little bit but maybe. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230218/637b954c4fdd742a83cacbf7a2a0343a.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230218/b91f51f6db9b8388e449dd819a37e409.jpg

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Helirich

02-20-2023, 07:31 PM

Maybe some heat on the tranny side. Not real hot, but a propane torch and a rubber mallet could loosen it up.

SupercoolBill

02-20-2023, 09:02 PM

Maybe some heat on the tranny side. Not real hot, but a propane torch and a rubber mallet could loosen it up.Yup we did a lot of that.

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SupercoolBill

02-20-2023, 09:15 PM

Back at it on Sunday. We drained the engine and transmission fluid and hung the engine from the transmission in hopes of breaking it loose. Ended up having to drill out one of the starter bolts that was seized into the bell housing.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230221/a627570f31a50abf828b76bb33c590e8.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230221/6fedc2db9372ef760f7ab443abafce50.jpg

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SupercoolBill

02-20-2023, 09:27 PM

I drove the remains of the starter bolt out with a hammer and a punch. After a lot of whacking the transmission with a big plastic hammer (my wife did that part), forcefully but somewhat carefully prying near the stuck bolt...eventually the transmission slowly separated from the engine.

Ironically I bought a new complete clutch kit but the clutch on the engine looks to be a mint replacement https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230221/df30c36cd2963fcfbed0977cde5b26da.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230221/4360cff92d8e99df172abfa4e9d8925b.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230221/04385f60ad3bfc07d73e23e8a4bbba1d.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230221/ac92c63381a69071a8d2eb78db81d7d0.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230221/b3ce2a7e6252a7f367d7affcae75c9d6.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230221/6823b36594890922c875e7b8129052de.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230221/e6608f063230c7672db4dd86e2b7d5d6.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230221/a41a7def089f2b0da14b329c9e3956ee.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230221/9062513169215ffb56b1666522f3de61.jpg

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SupercoolBill

02-20-2023, 09:44 PM

Now the fun part. Try to remove what is left of the bolt without snapping it off in the engine block. Stressful [emoji30]
Hit it with a hammer a bunch of times, heat the block, spray with penitrating fluid, try to turn it, heat the bolt, try to turn it, whack it with a hammer,.....eventually I got it to move a tiny bit. A tiny bit is all I needed. From there just kept turning it back and forth while spraying it until eventually I was able to thread it out.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230221/1b754e493f0c235366a0560f99f30af3.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230221/70197cba51955c63960887ebf1d6d857.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230221/d92417833a2d991c086bcf101dd7fbff.jpg

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SupercoolBill

02-20-2023, 09:50 PM

The wife started in on the transmission. She removed the output flanges and the tail piece.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230221/6e2e6dbc7aa0cf17b737264810709fe3.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230221/40a37ff74c638aca8fd295bc68c65416.jpg

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SupercoolBill

02-20-2023, 09:51 PM

The clutch slave cylendar seems to be reusable. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230221/496cb96f4ee730c59cfefba97a7cec5f.jpg

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Stainless

02-21-2023, 07:16 PM

You're making slow, but steady progress. I was in a similar place as you a year or two ago. It seems bleak in the moment, but it's super rewarding when you get to the reassembly phase. Keep up the good work!

69434

82DMC12

02-26-2023, 10:14 AM

My crossgate cable wore through the outer jacket in the same place. That seems to be where it passes through the frame. Maybe enough vibration will do it. Where did you get your new cross gate cable? I'm waiting on DPI to make a kevlar jacket cable for me.

SupercoolBill

03-01-2023, 01:02 PM

Got mine from Delorean Go

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SupercoolBill

03-01-2023, 01:14 PM

Boy getting that shifting shaft out was a major P.I.T.A. first trying to drift out the roll pins through the little plug while holding everything in the correct position then trying to compress the springs while trying to pop the plastic sleeves out. OMG!!
After cleaning it up we could see how pitted the shaft is where the seal rides. One issue I can see with this design is the the shaft doesn't only rotate but also goes in out out laterally. It's a tough job for a seal in an area that picks up a bunch of crap off from the road.
We need to decide to leave the shaft as is and hope that it doesn't leak, bring it to a machine shop to be repaired, or buy a new one for $200.00. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230301/3ff1181522b85e304dd6e81b6381efb1.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230301/466812061653bea2afee031bb651745f.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230301/93796d7e0d03077f2137e7860da5b16f.jpg

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82DMC12

03-01-2023, 02:19 PM

Got mine from Delorean Go

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Just an FYI I've seen report on Facebook where the D-go crossgate cable end has snapped off of it at the shifter. Maybe two people reported this. Inspect it carefully before installing.

SupercoolBill

03-02-2023, 08:08 PM

Just an FYI I've seen report on Facebook where the D-go crossgate cable end has snapped off of it at the shifter. Maybe two people reported this. Inspect it carefully before installing.Okay I will.

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SupercoolBill

03-02-2023, 08:24 PM

The missing parts that we bought from DPI finally showed up the other day. After all this waiting I was kind of disappointed with the nuts that hold the front lip of the gas tank closing plate. The plate and all the fasteners are stainless steel but this nuts are just regular zinc plated clip in nuts.
My worry is that over time the bolts will get seized in the nuts. And then of course when forced the clips will just break free. Then you'd have nuts spinning in a location that you can't get to with tools. I did some poking around online and found a different style nut that wouldn't spin and is even available in stainless steel. In the end we decided to just use the clip nuts that go to the closing plate we bought but made sure to put anti-sieze on the bolts.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230303/f3b0840d37d9ba63dce095cd7954a3bf.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230303/72e4430ce03e616b7cd50bbb6b1d2e08.jpg

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SupercoolBill

03-02-2023, 08:34 PM

I cleaned up the gas tank, removed the old foam pads, I used some foam tape that I had at the shop to put on the bottom of the gas tank. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230303/c88e97c1475c0970110220690fa35e4c.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230303/fbd3f751222141dc9aa558e4faf47038.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230303/184f7562d0b93dfa80c9ee796853cc0d.jpg

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SupercoolBill

03-02-2023, 08:44 PM

The other day I bought a length of coolant hose. I cut two pieces to put on the first to sections of coolant pipe where they contact the frame. I didn't get pictures of it but we strapped up the coolant hoses then held the closing plate up while we put some long bolts with nuts on them. Once we got the bolts in we used the nuts to pull the plate in tight.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230303/97ec3740d4cb91c7b174ef0180e89a4d.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230303/3a6b57da963d2b1f5646543ff95abf22.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230303/a0c4763ace24d991670ef40dda029293.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230303/30c62bcaa39278f8c168a1cf0a99c257.jpg

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SupercoolBill

03-17-2023, 09:30 AM

We received more parts this week. These came from D-go. I feel kind of foolish ordering all these parts from a company in the UK but I find their website easy to use, their prices are good, they have free shipping (if over $100 but let's be honest....it is never less than $100) and even though they based in Europe I get my parts faster than I would from vendors right here in the USA.
So what did we get? The missing coolant pipe that D-Ind couldn't provide, the plastic clips to hold the heater pipes onto the frame, the black metal clips that hold the wiring harness in a bunch of places on the car, transmission mounts (the part with rubber on them), some fittings we were missing for the fuel systems, fuel filter holder, misc bolts and other fasteners, and the angle bracket that holds the clutch hard line on the transmission....S.S. version.
Apparently I accidentally ordered two fuel filter holders so I am giving one to a local Delorean owner.

I am glad that I decided to replace my transmission mounts. After I had the new ones I decided to get a little rough with the ones that came off from the car and the rubber easily separated from the metal part.

One thing I will say is that rubber on the new motor mounts and transmission mounts seems very stiff compared to the stock ones. Not sure if that is a good or a bad thing. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230317/92d0a7c2d132c707cf1fe9f44f435b63.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230317/1f96a642e92d99a95b84d881fa3daa14.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230317/d35e7864858129b71d799144ca39f4ff.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230317/383be049c6b23d24f6133ba795b0d0d7.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230317/56ff60bd3990f3dbc8e5e92ee295aaf0.jpg

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SupercoolBill

03-17-2023, 09:48 AM

I am wondering if we should clear coat some of the new parts we have that are plated. I know that the nice looking zinc coating only lasts so long. Then again this car will probably only be driven on nice sunny days so it may be overkill.
The other thing I am trying to decide it if I send out the new part we have that are already zinc and yellow chromate dipped to be re-plated zinc and yellow dipped. I have seen pictures of how the parts come out when you have them replated and it is usually a very bright gold color. It would be nice to have ALL of the zinc/yellow chromate parts on the car matching.
Here is an example. the first pic is a picture of a part I had plated locally and the next are parts that someone had replated and DMW. (Actually I got the pics backwards)
The 3rd picture is a part with what I'd call "factory plating" which is how the parts I have order from vendors look. The last picture is a new part next to a part I replated.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230317/fd37ef6db65d386fff361030ed8dd9c8.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230317/5123195a9ce474f63f7b33c6256d14e9.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230317/4fb6f414f74602adda7b9454573c6aa8.jpg

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https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230317/ae747f170e6aa36f92230b2848bf58d7.jpg

SupercoolBill

03-17-2023, 09:57 AM

We sealed off the ports and vapor blasted the nasty warm up regulator. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230317/c17cf2dafdb4c8c6647a803c6e402b68.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230317/e9aa5a41dc25e0189f750f08e122f3c3.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230317/e8597825bd44e78f4ea17a5304dc2274.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230317/29960a4371536d25bbbbf47767368ce0.jpg

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82DMC12

03-17-2023, 01:01 PM

I've had good luck using Duplicolor Gloss Clear Engine Enamel for things I want to clear-coat. Get it at Autozone etc. I had my calipers plated and then gave them three coats with that stuff to help keep them looking good and easy to clean.

Timeless

03-17-2023, 01:05 PM

Josh

03-23-2023, 11:42 AM

Unless your transaxle mounts are visibly damaged, i would not replace them. If replacing, try your best to stick with NOS. I have not had good luck with the reproduction transaxle mounts.

SupercoolBill

03-25-2023, 06:21 PM

Unless your transaxle mounts are visibly damaged, i would not replace them. If replacing, try your best to stick with NOS. I have not had good luck with the reproduction transaxle mounts.From what I hear they have changed the mounts because they had issues with the last batch. [emoji1745]

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SupercoolBill

03-25-2023, 06:34 PM

Well just because the WUR looks good on the outside it doesn't mean it is in good shape in the hidden places. I had a heck of a time trying to get it apart. The bolts that hold it together were seized. The center section of the WUR was cracked on the corner. When I took the valve apart the whole corner just fell off (see the last picture)https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230325/2c3e5939a82d62614b14b67bf0eac8ce.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230325/dcd4992583feb50c91ac3c9ec3866a0d.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230325/bafce99183cedf0878aa8dc543ab2ea9.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230325/dbae7de20f90d4d8bb994d4a6b8d8054.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230325/1735e44562bf52516e17da6c7c93220b.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230325/6fe95a7803173f388efc0661d9312c36.jpg

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SupercoolBill

03-25-2023, 06:43 PM

I had previously purchased a WUR rebuild kit from Germany. It looks like the kit comes with a new diaphragm and small screws to replace the rivets. I ended up carefully drilling then driving out the rivets.
My buddy TIG welded the center section for me and I gave him $50 for doing it for me. I just need to dress it up a bit and drill out the hole. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230325/96419a8a1520aaba6e49d6aefb8d9a4f.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230325/18b3e4c67e0ab05df368d389cd01b34f.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230325/f616b99dc484a738907b09dbd8e02503.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230325/4fb0f61a43530b01352cb4a1f6da4638.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230325/17c27bed54c7012b3ef8dce87688e011.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230325/202356dac7dae337eaa35077f26321d5.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230325/ae6ca861aea795ef1d00bfc96d558517.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230325/f266366182bbb7edc45768fe8877486e.jpg

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SupercoolBill

04-22-2023, 08:44 PM

Hunting down the very last parts of the car that need to be replated. I think all that is left is this bulkhead plate and the headlight plates. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230423/d76b8837b33bad2ff7ad65e8f5cdfd4b.jpg

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SupercoolBill

04-22-2023, 08:47 PM

One of the bolts was seized so the rivnut started spinning. I carefully ground the bolt head off. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230423/f7dfde7a2cd3c2c9fab5c12f2afda2d2.jpg

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82DMC12

04-22-2023, 08:47 PM

If you're like me, you'll find at least one more thing as soon as you get your parts back from plating!

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SupercoolBill

04-22-2023, 08:51 PM

Got the plate freed up but it wouldn't come off. Found that an electrical connector on the other side of the body was holding things up. Couldn't be in two places at once so had to use Vise Grips to hold the outside while I went inside the car.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230423/20f502563158927b9c6962c3a2dc091a.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230423/9049b5c6b80d4f631af13a540c50907b.jpg

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SupercoolBill

04-22-2023, 08:55 PM

Got the plate out and peeled all the foam insulating gasket off from it.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230423/afd16d67aa102a7a051bf84454fd1976.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230423/f8bd1190f8b9f48f89cb20d0810274bc.jpg

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SupercoolBill

04-22-2023, 09:04 PM

Next we (the wife and I) tried to get the headlight assemblies apart. This is not for the faint of heart. The screws are almost impossible to get to and par for the course on this car, everything is really rusty.
The plug connectors for the headlights are kind of rough and probably should be replaced.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230423/03103188dc0cd251e5644cf4162aac3c.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230423/82a009a4a542e1c864044e0a0cb865d6.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230423/1384e450af75db9beb6f1804acbf20af.jpg

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Helirich

04-25-2023, 11:27 AM

Better get out the Por-15.

SupercoolBill

05-06-2023, 05:39 PM

We ended up pushing pause on trying to get the headlight parts all off from the car. It was taking too long, we were getting frustrated, and I feel like we are getting to the point where we have taken apart too much of the car without putting anything back together yet. Really the biggest deciding factor was finding out that we can buy brand new complete headlight mount assemblies for $123.00 each. I have a blasting booth, the adjustment screws and plastic nuts,...springs aren't much but the convenience and time saving of just buying complete assmeblies ready to go won me over. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230506/20624d5e44980a1c2f48a9f8d18ef4fd.jpg

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SupercoolBill

05-06-2023, 06:03 PM

I wanted the tube in the valve cover replated and I also wanted to remove the plastic screen that was floating around in there so I drilled the aluminum mushroomed studs, removed the plate, removed the screen, heated the valve cover and tapped the tube out of the valve cover.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230506/e49879902c2624032f7f449e6a4337b4.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230506/776e02aa5abbcdbbcde58070273b3869.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230506/b35a6df0194104eda00fa42d6951a1ec.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230506/f0f0ec06453c3116fb0e97439bc93f8d.jpg

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SupercoolBill

05-06-2023, 06:23 PM

I decided to send out everything on the car that is supposed to even if it had good plating because I wanted it all to match. Well,...I changed my mind on the parking brake assemblies. I bought these from Ed (Delorean EU) they are all ready to go. I felt like taking them all apart was asking for trouble so I put them back together. If the plating isn't quite as good or as bright yellow as on my newly plated stuff I'll just have to live with it. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230506/9f6550bb2f5fe771b03c33f800870d21.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230506/17a517e08b0df5cc61bd05660662bc41.jpg

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SupercoolBill

05-06-2023, 06:35 PM

I've been soaking the screws on the distributor for a month or so. The screws were still stuck solid. I had to carefully heat the distributor body then use a hand impact. It was a slow painful process. The screws must be hardened steel because they didn't just snap off (much to my surprise).
I need to do some research to figure out how to get this take apart fully so I can check and rebuild all parts of it. I'm not sure if the vacuum advance can be safely replated.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230506/4b9255619fc795006d5af1d6e5d252d0.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230506/3ac1709aa76b57a6990a3d35da99a0ad.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230506/55b8589c2467ee2940baefb6e2384248.jpg

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SupercoolBill

05-06-2023, 07:24 PM

I messaged Mike from DMW and shared my concerns about sending these parts out. I asked if I could take pictures of what I was sending out and he could take pictures of my parts after having them plated so I know that everything is coming back. He said he would. These are the pictures I sent him along with a couple others via email.
I grabbed random boxes to box thing up and didn't put much though into what parts went in which box.
If I ever did this again I would use boxes with writing on the, I would have distributed the weight more evenly amongst the boxes, and I wish I would have put the hard to impossible part in one box so I could put more insurance on that one box.
It cost $165 to ship thr four boxes priority with $200 insurance on each box. Everything is so expensive nowadays. I really wish I would have found a local plating place that I could trust. It seems foolish to ship these parts half way across the US to have them plated.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230506/6629a6987f28ffad6cf7f4f1f5ec7351.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230506/dbafebbac99c2a5b57f161fd605a1b8d.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230506/d5cb8bdee9d874084d98346c85af774e.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230506/6438e6d7129232167d58409fb73dd8bd.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230506/197c6a56be3c3dd158d6858acee370c4.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230506/4135d1d3714d4a5212aae5252e3882c4.jpg

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SupercoolBill

05-06-2023, 07:56 PM

We recieved the parts to make our own LCA supports/caster adjusters.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230506/3ec7b4d1260713066f423dc9b42fb447.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230506/f3ff4bd1320b0c96b53c0312dc6dbfd2.jpg

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Helirich

05-07-2023, 11:51 AM

SupercoolBill

05-07-2023, 12:05 PM

I looked into making the LCA supports like the ones DCI makes. I have pretty much a complete machine shop. Honestly, I couldn?t justify the work. You would have the tap for the future, but it probably wouldn?t be that sharp after tapping all that stainless. I really don?t understand why he doesn?t charge more.

I applaud you for doing it yourself though.The parts can all be bought from Speedway. The only thing that needs to be fabricated are some spacers made from aluminum tubing.

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Mark D

05-10-2023, 02:09 PM

It cost $165 to ship the four boxes priority with $200 insurance on each box.

It would have been more cost effective to use USPS flat rate boxes. The large size boxes cost $22.80 to ship anywhere in the US, and can be loaded up to 70 lbs. $100 of insurance is also included. For $200 of insurance you'd add $4.30 per box.

You probably could have fit everything in three boxes and it would have cost around $82. Four boxes would have been $109.

Bitsyncmaster

05-10-2023, 02:24 PM

It would have been more cost effective to use USPS flat rate boxes. The large size boxes cost $22.80 to ship anywhere in the US, and can be loaded up to 70 lbs. $100 of insurance is also included. For $200 of insurance you'd add $4.30 per box.

You probably could have fit everything in three boxes and it would have cost around $82. Four boxes would have been $109.

+1

The flat rate boxes almost always cost less then your own box shipped priority. Only found mailing to my state your own box cost less then the flat rate.

Mark D

05-10-2023, 02:38 PM

+1

The flat rate boxes almost always cost less then your own box shipped priority. Only found mailing to my state your own box cost less then the flat rate.

Similar experience here. Shipping anything further away than a couple of hundred miles always seems to be cheaper if it goes flat rate. The small, medium and large boxes are free at the post office too which is also nice. USPS has a lot of other free boxes you can order online in various shapes and sizes.

Regional rate boxes were also a good way to save but USPS got rid of those a few months ago, unfortunately.

Interesting note on the small flat rate box... It also has a maximum weight of 70lbs. But due to the small volume, it's physically impossible to exceed the weight limit even if you packed it with the most dense element on earth.

82DMC12

05-10-2023, 02:45 PM

I like that the boxes are free. I always have three or four of every size in a closet at home so I can pack stuff up whenever I feel like it.

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SupercoolBill

05-10-2023, 03:26 PM

Similar experience here. Shipping anything further away than a couple of hundred miles always seems to be cheaper if it goes flat rate. The small, medium and large boxes are free at the post office too which is also nice. USPS has a lot of other free boxes you can order online in various shapes and sizes.

Regional rate boxes were also a good way to save but USPS got rid of those a few months ago, unfortunately.

Interesting note on the small flat rate box... It also has a maximum weight of 70lbs. But due to the small volume, it's physically impossible to exceed the weight limit even if you packed it with the most dense element on earth.Yeah that is exactly what I found out when I was at the post office. Time is money so I just sent it. Next time I'll know better.

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SupercoolBill

05-10-2023, 03:33 PM

I like that the boxes are free. I always have three or four of every size in a closet at home so I can pack stuff up whenever I feel like it.

Sent from my Pixel 6a using TapatalkI used to do that but my local post office gives you a hard time about taking flat rate boxes. They say if "Hey of you aren't using that to mail something out you can't take them"
I say "Yeah eventually"
They say "Well that's not what it is for...if your not mailing something today or tomorrow you shouldn't take them"

I think this is another case of a few people ruining it for everyone else. People grabbing an armful of flat rate boxes for moving or organizing thier junk.

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Bitsyncmaster

05-10-2023, 03:53 PM

Similar experience here. Shipping anything further away than a couple of hundred miles always seems to be cheaper if it goes flat rate. The small, medium and large boxes are free at the post office too which is also nice. USPS has a lot of other free boxes you can order online in various shapes and sizes.

Regional rate boxes were also a good way to save but USPS got rid of those a few months ago, unfortunately.

Interesting note on the small flat rate box... It also has a maximum weight of 70lbs. But due to the small volume, it's physically impossible to exceed the weight limit even if you packed it with the most dense element on earth.

Shipping priority overseas, flat rate box is always about 40% less then your own box. I use two post offices and they leave the free boxes in racks so take as many as you need. Never had any worker comment for taking them.

Timeless

05-10-2023, 04:18 PM

We ended up pushing pause on trying to get the headlight parts all off from the car. It was taking too long, we were getting frustrated, and I feel like we are getting to the point where we have taken apart too much of the car without putting anything back together yet. Really the biggest deciding factor was finding out that we can buy brand new complete headlight mount assemblies for $123.00 each. I have a blasting booth, the adjustment screws and plastic nuts,...springs aren't much but the convenience and time saving of just buying complete assmeblies ready to go won me over.
I bought a set of headlight housings from DGo and about to powder coat them. Really is a no-brainer instead of messing with 40 year old rusty parts.

SupercoolBill

05-19-2023, 09:01 AM

Received an email from DMW. They said they unboxed all of my parts to be re-plated and sent them out to be plated. They said they should be done in a couple weeks.

They charge by the bucket load. This seems like an odd way to determine cost. I have done prepping and plating myself and I find all of the small parts to be the biggest pain to deal with not the large parts like calipers for instance. So if they want to charge that way it is fine by me. The wife and I are excited to see the after pics.

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SupercoolBill

05-19-2023, 09:03 AM

82DMC12

05-19-2023, 10:34 PM

These two parts on my distributor were rusted so bad that they can't be used. I message Mike at DMW to see if he could get me these parts while he has my parts that are getting plated so that I can have them plated at the same time. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230519/838f1ad6078ad6e65a70dd9485a3fc24.jpg

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If you can't find them, reach out to Bill Robertson. He has a ton of spare distributors, mostly other slightly different versions but I bet all that stuff is the same.

SupercoolBill

06-25-2023, 09:28 PM

We got our parts back from being re-plated at DMW.
They were great to deal with and I couldn't be more pleased with how everything came out and how they took care of us.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230626/821868a0772e85c4b01586a9998ec394.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230626/95a8ad3eceb5d8335b5f3fdd58b28778.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230626/9d7230d7cbe330af23982e5956e2ef32.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230626/0ed3259803d8bfe69cddf61832fb236e.jpg

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SupercoolBill

06-25-2023, 09:32 PM

Here are some before pics for reference.

Oh and a special shout out to Andy Lien who kept suggesting that I send our parts to DMW to be replated. I should have just done this in the first place rather than wasting time and money trying to do them myself. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230626/a39d461ef3b3031f9af9fec3fa849b5a.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230626/2d3885d9a855d087d7bfd7c4f2355575.jpg

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Mark D

07-05-2023, 09:38 AM

Great results on the re-plated parts going through DMC Midwest. I had similar results when I sent them a bunch of parts 10 years ago, and the plating is still holding up well.

SupercoolBill

07-06-2023, 08:00 PM

Great results on the re-plated parts going through DMC Midwest. I had similar results when I sent them a bunch of parts 10 years ago, and the plating is still holding up well.That's great Mark

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SupercoolBill

07-06-2023, 08:07 PM

FINALLY had some time off and nothing else planned for a day so we could actually work on the car.
Wife assembled the brake calipers while I assembled the rear axle carriers.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230707/852155fb3cea973b09884dae091ae84f.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230707/e252514c6afd87775c63264136744f9f.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230707/4b6174b5d8ab9bcf31b7971122a50601.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230707/1971a2acbede6be9af529c93d0735a92.jpg

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https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230707/b5d997c8e557f27a321566d059c35ac3.jpg

SupercoolBill

07-06-2023, 08:15 PM

Assembled rear suspension and links.
The special shouldered bolt on top of the coilover was kind of a pain. You can't see where exactly the adapter is as you are trying to tighten the nut to the bolt. So over and over again you tighten it and it stops short so you have to loosen it again and start over again. Hard thing to explain but trust me it is super annoying.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230707/5357905153a292d9fb2ea8bc41070de5.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230707/daf7fd5a0d6ccebdbf871f69e3b539f3.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230707/bcc989a1e14501a3df1fe15c8a8cc93c.jpg

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SupercoolBill

07-06-2023, 08:31 PM

Our radius arm bolts are not long enough if I put on the washers.
The bolts, washers, and nuts were all ordered from D-Go using the OEM part numbers. I thought maybe they sold me bolts that are too short but I found my origonal bolts and they were the exact same length. After talking to others and thinking about it I think that the origonal washers were thinner and the lock nuts were thinner or a different type (not nylock type).
At the hardware store I found some nuts that would work. Well that is if they had the correct size.
They did have regular nuts so I bought them.
I have a lot of faith in thread locking chemicals so I think I am just going to use the regular nuts with thread locker. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230707/d432226bdec0b8e066ebb90924dab677.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230707/2293416cf5242636d09235cdd0b0ad2e.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230707/594c0fce82e5fed0ecc0790e1b03ecfe.jpg

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SupercoolBill

07-09-2023, 09:54 PM

Worked on the car tonight. Installed LCAs, upper wishbones, and LCA stabilizers.
Cut spacers from some aluminum tubing I'd ordered online. I used a pipe cutter to cut the pipe, a 1/2" drill to clean out the hole, and a sanding disk to clean up the ends.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230710/3f2454af56b3f1a342ab189f8d95fd55.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230710/1e059f04fd516d87aad91b11264fdf9f.jpg

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SupercoolBill

07-09-2023, 09:57 PM

I realized that the new coilovers didn't come with any spacers for inside the LCAs.
Measured everything and did some quick math.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230710/ffe8e90263baadfb4b45203792eae5f8.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230710/4f4d4920240f4090b78bcfcf5ab5eeb0.jpg

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SupercoolBill

07-09-2023, 10:07 PM

Got the LCAs installed and moved onto the wishbone.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230710/3a3a96f5aaa5db236e99cc37be182c3b.jpg

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SupercoolBill

07-09-2023, 10:14 PM

The washers that I ordered from D-Go seemed too large. They had such a large diameter that it set up against the metal part of the wishbone rather than the rubber insert. We found some smaller OD washers and used them. I was a bit worried since I used the OEM part number to order the washers. So I looked through all my pictures from when we disassembled the car. It looks like we did the right thing. The washers look like the ones we ended up using.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230710/19c66ede12f5ab154003608a9a5edd21.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230710/7dea2f82ff65e141db386f3b9e31bad9.jpg

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https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230710/856fb1c379ca5df1bcd786c057d04c89.jpg

SupercoolBill

07-13-2023, 09:11 PM

Installed more front end parts. The front wheel hub didn't want to slide smoothly onto the spindle. We tried to pull it back off and the bearing pulled apart. Oops. Kind of glad it happened though because we found out that the bearing was all rusted inside. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230714/0ebe2e9ae714653acda660b092fb8009.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230714/122bf3301350b7d32c803e370f63a1df.jpg

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SupercoolBill

07-19-2023, 08:01 PM

We figured out that the hibs came from D-Go so I emailed Arron at D-go and he sent out a new hub assembly immediately. Great service. He suggested cooling the spindle shaft or heating the hub so that it would go on easy. We did both. Threw the hub in the shop oven for a while and froze the spindle shaft.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230719/b0bd4c6254110d656d27027d148872e7.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230719/28a040e31d71f017872155a4ac8fa523.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230720/29b62a8fa90c9728c7dbd679b9eeb265.jpg

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SupercoolBill

07-19-2023, 08:07 PM

More brake work. Most of the brake lines have been run and connected.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230720/597c5ee91f8ba41147d17b9d5acd912e.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230720/ac44bcbdc2ea2d6162fe9bbc2debf503.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230720/73dd86d533ab1545e8632a4df3d6a97b.jpg

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SupercoolBill

07-19-2023, 08:10 PM

Anti-sway bar installed.
After the alignment the sway bar clamp bolts will have loctite applied to them.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230720/608d075773bf3f4c1bbc83c64a42851f.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230720/9cfcb62680d36296bd1b09bf92e61842.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230720/ab0352534352232aacfe0c2c85fc0c7d.jpg

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SupercoolBill

07-19-2023, 08:17 PM

After talking to Josh from D-Ind and other we decided to replace the ball joint nylock nuts with castle nuts and cotter pins which came with the recall kit from D-Ind. The other two castle nuts don't fit our upper ball joints. So if I want castle nuts for them I will have to buy them. Also the ball joint stud will need to be drilled. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230720/d28d9335ff0c597bbd7418d1d8e053ad.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230720/3eafc0c4982840955638119265594f46.jpg

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Rich

07-19-2023, 08:39 PM

Looks nice and solid. Same goes for that crumple tube bracket.

Haven't seen a D sway bar mount with what looks like a Zerk lube fitting.
a. Is that what it is? Is the fitting aimed straight down?
b. Do you think it may be damaged approaching or departing ramps/driveways or under full front susp. compression at speed on bumpy roads? I do see the coilovers and special springs.

Anti-sway bar installed.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230720/ab0352534352232aacfe0c2c85fc0c7d.jpg

SupercoolBill

07-19-2023, 08:56 PM

Looks nice and solid. Same goes for that crumple tube bracket.

Haven't seen a D sway bar mount with what looks like a Zerk lube fitting.
a. Is that what it is? Is the fitting aimed straight down?
b. Do you think it may be damaged approaching or departing ramps/driveways or under full front susp. compression at speed on bumpy roads? I do see the coilovers and special springs.Yes the grease fitting getting wiped out I'd a concern.

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SupercoolBill

07-21-2023, 05:52 PM

Is a concern that is

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r00b

07-26-2023, 01:20 AM

I decided against those brackets with the zerks since I deferentially have hit those brackets on steep ramps into parking lots, my brackets where scraped and damaged with worn flat spots on the sides from the impacts.

Looks nice and solid. Same goes for that crumple tube bracket.

Haven't seen a D sway bar mount with what looks like a Zerk lube fitting.
a. Is that what it is? Is the fitting aimed straight down?
b. Do you think it may be damaged approaching or departing ramps/driveways or under full front susp. compression at speed on bumpy roads? I do see the coilovers and special springs.

SupercoolBill

07-26-2023, 05:41 AM

I decided against those brackets with the zerks since I deferentially have hit those brackets on steep ramps into parking lots, my brackets where scraped and damaged with worn flat spots on the sides from the impacts.What did you end up using instead?
Why couldn't I just remove the zerks until greasing is needed?

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Helirich

07-27-2023, 12:22 PM

What did you end up using instead?
Why couldn't I just remove the zerks until greasing is needed?

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I?m sure you could do that. You might want to put a plug in the hole. I have to say I?ve not seen a zerc in that location before. (On any car) It?s usually a ?grease once? kind of thing.

SupercoolBill

07-27-2023, 12:26 PM

I?m sure you could do that. You might want to put a plug in the hole. I have to say I?ve not seen a zerc in that location before. (On any car) It?s usually a ?grease once? kind of thing.Yeah I thought of that but it is kind of an odd size thread. It's not like it is a bearing or something that would get ruined if a piece of sand or drop of water somehow got up in.

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82DMC12

07-27-2023, 12:27 PM

I?m sure you could do that. You might want to put a plug in the hole. I have to say I?ve not seen a zerc in that location before. (On any car) It?s usually a ?grease once? kind of thing.

Yeah I don't see why you can't take the zerks out. I'd be curious how the zerk is able to grease the inside of the bushing anyway. Does the bushing have a channel inside of it?

Typically I would suggest using Energy Suspension Formula 5 silicone grease all over the bushing where it wraps around the sway bar. That's what I use on all bushings.

WHO1DMC

07-27-2023, 12:42 PM

Yeah I don't see why you can't take the zerks out. I'd be curious how the zerk is able to grease the inside of the bushing anyway. Does the bushing have a channel inside of it?

Typically I would suggest using Energy Suspension Formula 5 silicone grease all over the bushing where it wraps around the sway bar. That's what I use on all bushings.

It's for polyurethane bushings. They have a hole for the grease.

Dave B.

82DMC12

07-27-2023, 12:43 PM

Inside the bushing?

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WHO1DMC

07-27-2023, 01:15 PM

Inside the bushing?

Sent from my Pixel 6a using TapatalkThis is just for demonstration purposes only.

Dave B.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230727/f001506fa03511cd8d12b8780314b41e.jpg

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82DMC12

07-27-2023, 01:16 PM

Ok cool. Wonder how effective that is? I am in the habit of just removing the bushing and rubbing the silicone grease all over it. I don't even have a grease gun.

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SupercoolBill

07-28-2023, 06:11 AM

I personally don't think it is necessary. This isn't a daily driver. As long as I applied some grease in there during assembly (I did wheel bearing grease) I think it will be fine for the years I own it.

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SupercoolBill

07-28-2023, 08:22 PM

We worked on the car for few hours last night.
We tried to find the correct sized castle nuts for the upper ball joints locally with no luck. We were not looking forward to drilling the ball joints either. After talking to several mechanics, Delorean owners, etc. we decided to just use nylock nuts with some Loctite on them.

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SupercoolBill

07-28-2023, 08:45 PM

We didn't want a late night of working on the car so we decided to install the radiator and stop there. Well it's a.good thing because it took about 3 hours just to do that.
The drawings in the manual are not very clear. I took pictures as we took the car apart but I took like 1000 pictures and I never got around to putting them in categories. Pictures from other people's cars online helped. Eventually we figured out what went where.
The final problem we were left with was figuring out the bottom radiator mounts. We bought a complete radiator kit from D-Ind. It included the radiator, fans, fan shroud, mounting bolts, washers, and poly bushings. We tried using what was provided. The bolts were way too long for some reason. We also had two bolts and washers that came from D-Go in bags labeled "Radiator". These bolts were too short. The factory manuals showed what looked to be only bushings between the radiator and the mount but then pictures of people's car off the internet looked like they had the bracket sandwiched between two bushings on each side...so four total. And I remembered Josh telling me that's how it is supposed to be. Looking at how the bolt boss on radiator was designed it seemed like the upper bushings should have had a larger I.D. In the end we ended up using thin regular sized (not fender) washers on bottom and pushed up hard on the bolt while turning it. We managed to just get one thread started then from there we were able to easily squat the bushings down by tightening the bolts.
Eventually I may get longer bolts or cut down the bolts that were too long.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230729/4887ce20d906e3bfe166e9c532af282c.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230729/348d8b8648aa8f9939216ccb03fd571f.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230729/c4de6ef8dcfc1b69ac29a0cae8bcb51f.jpg

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Helirich

07-29-2023, 11:20 AM

I took pictures as we took the car apart but I took like 1000 pictures and I never got around to putting them in categories.

This is always the way. I?ve done a project like this and the other issue is you take pictures of everything around the thing you need help with, but you don?t have a good angle of what you want.

Anyways, your car looks fantastic. Thanks for posting all this.

SupercoolBill

07-29-2023, 03:42 PM

This is always the way. I?ve done a project like this and the other issue is you take pictures of everything around the thing you need help with, but you don?t have a good angle of what you want.

Anyways, your car looks fantastic. Thanks for posting all this.Yup that's the way it goes.
No problem (posting the project). It is a good way to document the project and potentially help out someone else that may be doing a full frame-off restoration.

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SupercoolBill

08-02-2023, 09:45 PM

A few more hours of working on Sunday night.
I got sunburned really bad Saturday so the wife had to lay under the car trying to install the dreaded fuel accumulator. She hated it. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230803/fe77cfc6359d20e987d1c5c2a06e4edc.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230803/9e5d2644b8a8c4d5fcc947c4b9eef099.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230803/90c410c06c72cd82f222eb915b7d47bb.jpg

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SupercoolBill

08-02-2023, 10:00 PM

Meanwhile I worked on the heater pipes. I planned on reusing the original pipes 1. Because they seemed salvageable. And 2. Because getting new ones was not easy or cheap. Well when I pulled off the old rubber hoses I got to see the worst part of them. After I cleaned off the flakey stuff I was left with a stalactite type material that had to be chiseled off. The front end of both pipes was pretty bad but luckily not rotted through. The rear end on the other hand had some bad rot. I was looking for replacements on line, measuring the OD and ID so I could possibly order new piping somewhere and try to make my own. I thought about TIG welding them but getting the aluminum clean enough to weld would be an issue.
My wife was getting all upset about the situation. She is sick of having to stop to purchase more parts. She had a brilliant but simple idea. "Why can't we just cut the bad section off and use a bit longer hoses?"
So that is exactly what I did. I cut around 3" off from the rear end of each pipe.
We got the fuel filter installed and completed what we could for coolant lines.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230803/17dad17c7d76196385d173adcf4d4cf1.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230803/28da0a41151b3aab2fe2684c8107f81d.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230803/4b38a6843f99415ea103f1a8f7ff1040.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230803/8e8e1f3216574ed82c8fc244e44569ad.jpg

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SupercoolBill

08-03-2023, 09:36 PM

We couldn't get the plastic holders for the heater pipes to work right. They kept coming lose from the holes in the frame. I never really cared for these lame things anyways. So we decided to use some cushioned S.S. holders.
You have to be careful on the two holes at the front because you could accidentally drill into the gas tank. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230804/d5f0f0986519be01d5da76e954e143f4.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230804/8281f057de8eb83d6581bc35cf589691.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230804/e89e0ae2785ab6c81ce6f9873f276db9.jpg

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SupercoolBill

08-03-2023, 09:41 PM

We are still struggling to figure out how these SS fuel and vents lines from D-Ind should be installed. I thought that we had the brake booster vacuum line figured out but when we laid the old one next to it we found out something odd. The distance from the bends to the ends are opposite what the old pipe was. We tried flipping it 180 but then the bends are way off from what they should be.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230804/48ba052804c5745b7802e4248182a37a.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230804/faf890705c37f48680df83f30064f333.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230804/1288e4023c0466bbe06674727de6d88e.jpg

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SupercoolBill

08-06-2023, 08:29 PM

We installed the shifter, cross gate cable, shift shafts, etc.
We have the D-Ind shift shafts. I love D-Ind products but I really get frustrated with the lack instructions for almost everything that we have bought from D-Ind. The bolts supplied with the shifter shafts appear to be too short. We don't know which direction the rear shaft should go, and what preset length we should go with. I reached out to Josh but didn't get an answer so we ended up reusing the original bolts.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230807/d0d96cbdc687af353c457cab20151c0d.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230807/11d65d7eef684065d505858262c75266.jpg

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SupercoolBill

08-06-2023, 08:43 PM

82DMC12

08-06-2023, 08:47 PM

I noticed another little OEM mistake. This is the bellcrank assembly with the original bolt and base washer. The concept is that the bolt has a shoulder on it so when fully tightened it is still free to rotate. A washer goes on bottom so that the surface of the bottom of the bellcrank is not dragging on the frame.
Here is the issue that I found. The washer ID is too large. This causes the shouldered part of the bolt to almost pass through the center of the washer. You can see the mark on the original washer where it was actually offset by quite a bit.
I didn't get a picture of it but I used a washer with a smaller ID. It worked better but not perfect. You really need a washer that fits so tight that it needs to be threaded over the bolt threads.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230807/7235b659d4c69af6158a93af68d71a57.jpg69916

Sent from my SM-F926U1 using TapatalkMake sure you lubricate the underside of the bell crank and the bolt shank with 50/50 red grease and copper anti seize. The tighten the nut with blue loctite or possibly even red loctite. The pivot bolt is notorious for unscrewing from the frame if it's not tight and secure. That's a very bad thing to have happen and is the cause for the only two times I needed a tow truck in 23 years. First time the bolt sheared right off. Then 22 years later it unscrewed from the frame.

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SupercoolBill

08-06-2023, 08:53 PM

We installed the shift tower. I didn't like how the pin set in the cross gate cable connector. When the stick was moved into the far right, forward position the pin hit the tower mounting bolt. I could see the hairclip getting knocked off by the bolt head leaving us stuck somewhere. I wanted to flip the pin around but the manual showed it going down through. I posted the situation on the Delorean technical page on FB and switched the pin around and also put some washers on it. I checked back on FB and Derrin on there said he puts the pin in the other way also so I left it the way I had it. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230807/08287063916070b7a3cc63b1ad590aba.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230807/fb99cd3824519e276d1cf3cd0bc645f4.jpg

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SupercoolBill

08-06-2023, 08:56 PM

Make sure you lubricate the underside of the bell crank and the bolt shank with 50/50 red grease and copper anti seize. The tighten the nut with blue loctite or possibly even red loctite. The pivot bolt is notorious for unscrewing from the frame if it's not tight and secure. That's a very bad thing to have happen and is the cause for the only two times I needed a tow truck in 23 years. First time the bolt sheared right off. Then 22 years later it unscrewed from the frame.

Sent from my Pixel 6a using TapatalkOkay I'll do that

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SupercoolBill

08-06-2023, 09:01 PM

This weekend we pretty much wrapped up the rolling chassis. Discovered that the TABs were installed from the outside in not inside so switched those around.
My wife installed the rims while I was replacing the front brakes, wheel bearings, etc on my Tacoma.
I heard my wife yelling and making up homemade swear words so I went over to see what was wrong.
The parking brake arm on the LH side of the car was hitting on the inside of the rim. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230807/b6dd1503b5f42d46817d171533eeaa75.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230807/13ca0b641ac31d0ec2bcabd16a40a6a8.jpg

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SupercoolBill

08-06-2023, 09:13 PM

I looked at the situation. It didn't make any sense. Did we get two RH parking brake arms from Delorean EU?
I dug out the old rusty POS original parking brake assemblies. They actually looked exactly the same. Even with the old ones it looked like the left side was bent up more than the right side. I messaged Andy L. and he said he had the same issue. He said he used a big wrench to bend the arm downward. So that is what we did.
So we are about done with the work on the frame.
Next up engine rebuild.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230807/617a5586f9028b23f5abfe02816ee4a6.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230807/e233577fbf0ebdbd97694109a568801c.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230807/00e05599968269c0263ca93b1579408b.jpg

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AugustneverEnds

08-07-2023, 06:20 AM

It's almost to pretty to cover up with a body!

Really nice job :thumbup2:

SupercoolBill

08-08-2023, 06:59 PM

It's almost to pretty to cover up with a body!

Really nice job [emoji106]2:Thanks I appreciate it

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ssdelorean

08-09-2023, 08:27 AM

Yes, look'n really great. Nice work!

I love making up swear words but don't enjoy the reasons associated with making them up :-)

What verse reference is that on the Mrs's "Courage" tattoo?

SupercoolBill

08-09-2023, 08:42 AM

Yes, look'n really great. Nice work!

I love making up swear words but don't enjoy the reasons associated with making them up :-)

What verse reference is that on the Mrs's "Courage" tattoo?It is a reference to a Bible verse. She has several tattoos. Two are Bible verses. One is faith the other is courage. I forget which verses are on them.
She says she got them (both on her forearms) so that whenever is sees them she is reminded to have faith and and have courage when anxiety strikes.

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Helirich

08-12-2023, 12:36 PM

It's almost to pretty to cover up with a body!

Really nice job :thumbup2:

X2

SupercoolBill

08-14-2023, 05:13 PM

The wife and I took a much needed mini-vacation Wed-Sun. We stayed somewhat local because we have some amazing thing to go see and do right here in the state we live in (Maine).
We stayed at The Cliff House in Cape Neddick. I highly recommend for a summer get away to celebrate a special occasion or if you are very wealthy just because you want to. While we were on the trip the car came up in conversation a couple of times. I am telling you...almost everyone loves Deloreans.

Anyways back to the project.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230814/229305573ff07b3a2c6b6f36430163bd.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230814/1800555990c8e80600e84b37ddd2794b.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230814/44fa3862c1286d260249c2950a767f46.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230814/eb1b47cf51428049d7fb60c23a5857ea.jpg

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SupercoolBill

08-14-2023, 05:18 PM

After we got home on Sunday we tackled the vacuum, brake booster pipe conundrum. All the pics I found on line looked like we needed more pipe in the rear and equally less up front. However when we flipped the pipe around the angle of the bends were wrong. I said screw it and tried taking some of the bend out of one bend and adding more bend to the other one. Turned out to be super easy. I was able to just do it by hand. The first two pics show where the pipe terminated before. The third is a zoomed in picture from D-Ind website. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230814/527ec79de843825d716df76252c230e6.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230814/53d5632dd608644a28eb28b21d11b968.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230814/909641a9a737a651e76214c8e0ed0a7c.jpg

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SupercoolBill

08-14-2023, 05:22 PM

So now we had to figure out how to best clamp the pipes down again. That took a bit but we got it figured out. Here is how they ended up. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230814/a510d0ef2b0e617a63dbd69d99c49f65.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230814/d409dc0d2ebfd8cd989ddc57ee2ea9b1.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230814/d1a1f5fb2c5c925306d77b6d20416b04.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230814/6984f82995bf514db1bb5eeb1c694b80.jpg

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SupercoolBill

08-14-2023, 05:28 PM

This part does bother me a bit. I wish this sat tighter to the frame. I can slide the whole line back until it lays correct but then the pipe is pushed too far to the rear of the car. I think it will be fine though. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230814/e955324d1733b6d33b8cfcc0acfe0845.jpg

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SupercoolBill

08-14-2023, 05:34 PM

We had one tire go flat so we removed that wheel.

Side bar....I really think that there should be a word in the English language for a tire mounted on a wheel.
It is erroneous to say "I removed my tire" because your not removing just your tire. You are removing your wheel with the tire on it and air in it. So I am left saying either "I removed the tire" or "I removed the wheel" which is not accurate. Anyways I digress.

The leak was on the stem. An easy fix with a deep socket using quick jerk motions to tighten (because the part inside the wheel tries to spin).https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230814/12799d53c6202fdd3d75d8f0d3b54fac.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230814/1c00bcae433533f432dfad11dabcb3dd.jpg

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SupercoolBill

08-14-2023, 05:41 PM

The last thing we did...well my wife did...I to swap around the rear gearchange tube so that the bend is on the forward part of the tube and face the bend so the tube arcs towards the hole in the frame. Based on research I THINK this is how this is supposed to go. We are still not 100% certain. While we were in there we removed the pivot bolt, cleaned the anti-seize off the threads, and put it back in with threadlocker as recommended by 82DMC12 (Andy L). There are quite a bit of extra threads sticking out so I may install a nut with thread locker on there as a jam nut also.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230814/5d761754c05ee66f2ddb1aeabad9b364.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230814/6e9c15657f0c6dd8261eba3685cccf62.jpg

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SupercoolBill

08-16-2023, 09:01 PM

Tonight after work we spent some time going through all the boxes of parts on the shelves. Threw some stuff out, condensed boxes of parts, better labeled boxes, etc.
Next we pulled the motor out and got started on disassembling it. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230817/96efdd95b55090f10cb4cff3f016ad9c.jpg

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SupercoolBill

08-16-2023, 09:04 PM

While the wife was removing the oil pump and timing chain parts I worked on a snapped off bolt in the Y-pipe. Drilled it out until the Y-pipe came off. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230817/a2274d23fbaaf14e520bb8b35d1280cb.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230817/8e43c7f7da46a35ceb3a7b5bdb302d26.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230817/de1469723abae8ad4460053f73c68dd4.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230817/798d5c666863ce77093bd570cf34eaf2.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230817/0da44ca785a1e760f46b1e053660212e.jpg

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SupercoolBill

08-16-2023, 09:07 PM

Almost all of the head bolts were stuck solid. I felt like I was going to snap my 1/2" breaker bar. We ended up having to heat the block to most of the bolts out. They came out DRY!https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230817/0899aae08c5ade50d45283c2a5278278.jpg

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SupercoolBill

08-16-2023, 09:09 PM

Both of the oil galley screens had a hole in them. I am assuming they are made this way from the factory. Kind of odd. Not sure if I'll be putting them back in.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230817/5bd64ec7c4cd0926b3394cecd428a336.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230817/d9f1b061f312634282d355cdc6210cb3.jpg

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SupercoolBill

08-16-2023, 09:11 PM

Oil pan with old goo caked on. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230817/f4b4cc103ecefb82e2d5324729ee204c.jpg

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SupercoolBill

08-16-2023, 09:14 PM

So much rust and corrosion. I'm a bit concerned with the condition of the engine mounts.
I've also been thinking of how to get the old mount studs out without ruining the engine block.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230817/5b2bfda4120639c711c1599661607820.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230817/2d0485c5a957c6097d14566388150b06.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230817/25f3f3d135c333461de69ec365903ad1.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230817/2dd6e18ec9262a4367fe6f09bfd98f23.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230817/e9c8fd7a6d0a1fb6e984a7fbb34c3e35.jpg

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82DMC12

08-16-2023, 09:20 PM

Looks like a bit of a pickle, is most of the engine mount stud broken off?

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WHO1DMC

08-16-2023, 09:26 PM

Never seen those screens before. They look like something you pull out of a washing machine hose.
Definitely interested in how you get those motor mount studs out!

Dave B.

82DMC12

08-16-2023, 09:28 PM

Never seen those screens before. They look like something you pull out of a washing machine hose.
Definitely interested in how you get those motor mount studs out!

Dave B.I doubt they will come out, he's probably going to have to drill through the whole thing.

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SupercoolBill

08-16-2023, 09:33 PM

Looks like a bit of a pickle, is most of the engine mount stud broken off?

Sent from my Pixel 6a using TapatalkOn one side yeah. Other end is sticking out. Threads aren't the greatest.
My thought was to grind the broken off side down flush. Drill like 1/4" into the stud to create a little crater. Fill the crater keep with Kroil and let it sit. Chase the threads with a die. Stack washers then thread on a nut. Heat the aluminum part. Tighten the nut and use it to pull the stud through. If that doesn't work....try to drill the entire stud out.

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SupercoolBill

08-16-2023, 09:33 PM

Never seen those screens before. They look like something you pull out of a washing machine hose.
Definitely interested in how you get those motor mount studs out!

Dave B.Yeah that was my first thought too. Or a faucet screen.

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82DMC12

08-16-2023, 09:34 PM

On one side yeah. Other end is sticking out. Threads aren't the greatest.
My thought was to grind the broken off side down flush. Drill like 1/4" into the stud to create a little crater. Fill the crater keep with Kroil and let it sit. Chase the threads with a die. Stack washers then thread on a nut. Heat the aluminum part. Tighten the nut and use it to pull the stud through. If that doesn't work....try to drill the entire stud out.

Sent from my SM-F926U1 using TapatalkGood luck, the good news is you have the engine on a stand and you have plenty of time! Usually seems like this happens to people who have the engine still sitting in the car and they were just trying to change their motor mounts!

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WHO1DMC

08-16-2023, 09:34 PM

I doubt they will come out, he's probably going to have to drill through the whole thing.

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Well I kinda figured something like that would have to happen. Still I would like to see something about it.

Dave B.

SupercoolBill

08-16-2023, 09:36 PM

Good luck, the good news is you have the engine on a stand and you have plenty of time! Usually seems like this happens to people who have the engine still sitting in the car and they were just trying to change their motor mounts!

Sent from my Pixel 6a using TapatalkYeah I have been thinking that about all of this stuff. Look at those exhaust manifolds! I couldn't imagine trying to do those with the engine in the car! FML!

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SupercoolBill

08-19-2023, 08:47 PM

After I ran 4 miles and my wife ran 14 miles (overachiever) we worked on the car.
I printed out the Volvo engine rebuild manual and put it in a 3 ring binder. I read it and highlighted and made notes in it. I needed a piece to hold the cylendars in so I walked over to the hardware store. I should I have just ordered the correct tool from D-Ind since the stuff I bought added up to quite a bit.
Sorry pictures are not in order.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230820/5c32595797a8c2cf63466e5c2e200f59.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230820/43b6eeaadc7a3956e1a113024a3f53ec.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230820/55935eee9f4fd92b7ba59bc304379559.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230820/d20e9fa1ab8e34199377aa429c49394d.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230820/f83573c3345668746507e64c5746d601.jpg

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SupercoolBill

08-19-2023, 08:50 PM

I used a scotchbrite wheel on a die grinder to clean up the top of the block and the cylendars so I could mark and number the cylendars.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230820/cbe9b4ff6e86c748b34854112f5cb27b.jpg

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SupercoolBill

08-19-2023, 08:56 PM

Carefully removed the pistons. Luckily the connecting rods are numbered from the factory. They are not numbered by piston number but rather in order of how they land on the crank. The manual has a chart that tells you which number represents what piston number. Kind of confusing but it works. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230820/5b13f2488381a0be53894e061c69b6a7.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230820/89d2fad187395b32494923ac0e129eed.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230820/bcb51543a2bc7052d821bff8b9869a5d.jpg

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SupercoolBill

08-19-2023, 09:03 PM

Cleaned the crud block, antifreeze gel off the cylendars, etc.
After the cylendars were out I transfered the marks and numbers that I wrote on top to the side with an engraver.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230820/47f84ea46c1993a99c6ebc96ee29ee52.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230820/eb9b700ef13995f546cf89f4da758b63.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230820/24bb9fb0fb252141c8f51493ca0cc7a1.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230820/4dfe27a92fdb6a2b0673d044b8ac96c4.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230820/121d956311bd96c495f2ccd583971647.jpg

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SupercoolBill

08-19-2023, 09:07 PM

Kept going disassembling, cleaning, and inspecting.
So far everything looks really good except for a score in one of the crank bearing halves. Crank has a line on it but I can't feel any actual damage. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230820/9a7e77a11217f56483c5ed4a5e1a8203.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230820/ca939f683547cf61af7778ee3a4e98c4.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230820/d692bf6dd05e4e64be041b41bd1352a9.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230820/84a0b2c3c3a1311ed9e266f681a64fbd.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230820/de0062f9bce7d74331987fb3276262f0.jpg

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SupercoolBill

08-20-2023, 09:01 PM

We worked on the car for 4-5 hours today.
If i hadn't mentioned before, the engine had good compression and we got it to run before we pulled it out of the car. So I was starting to feel like maybe we made a mistake to get in this deep but when we found stuff like this it made me feel glad that we did this. That is old anti-freeze in semi-solid form. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230821/6ee8fcce5443943555b257abc9d25807.jpg

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SupercoolBill

08-20-2023, 09:02 PM

I spent a lot of time cleaning tools and bench space today. The wife cleaned parts. Look at that nice clean pan!https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230821/cc6f5614d366bb148632027cbc366813.jpg

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SupercoolBill

08-28-2023, 10:43 PM

We had a busy last few days in the local running community that culminated with a local 5k race yesterday morning. After the race, a shower, and lunch we put in some hours on the car.
The wife started blasting parts in the wet blasting booth while I took apart the air intake assembly. I scored a housing that was in better shape than the one off our car but it was missing the guts. So I took apart the one that came on our car. Luckily the parts inside were in much better shape than the outside of the housing. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230829/fd82a3aa251a9db269b4ff553a2c60d9.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230829/76d927c94d9aaff0569b5462deebb317.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230829/99a390058e80221600a4465318666178.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230829/e40f7eb4a1993a576441910a00ba97b0.jpg

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SupercoolBill

08-28-2023, 10:47 PM

Like an idiot I tried to remove the bolt from the intake disk and it snapped off. I am pretty sure it was thread locked in place. So I had to drill out what was left of the bolt. It put up a fight but I got it out without damaging the threadshttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230829/0c51482d026d6fc0d59bb9646fe441dd.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230829/2a393eb8df2eaf430ed53b767602c11c.jpg

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SupercoolBill

08-28-2023, 10:49 PM

This project gave me an excuse to by more tools. These showed up the other day https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230829/72eafaa8b117cde2ef9c7c0aba3ed917.jpg

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SupercoolBill

08-28-2023, 10:57 PM

I got out all of the piston (and conn. rods). I removed the rings, taped them together in sets, labeled them, and bagged them.
I inspected the pistons and measured them...or at least tried to. It has been a minute since I used a micrometer and I had a hard time figuring out what my measurement was. Then I had a heck of a time trying to get the micrometer in just the exact right spot on the piston, while carefully tightening the clicker knob. My measurements were all over the place. I was getting frustrated. I looked closely at the pistons. They all still have the machining lines on them from when they were made. I'm gonna say since that is the case I don't really need to try to get an accurate measurement on each one.
Note in the pictures it looks like there is a weird circle pattern on the pistons but that is just how the pictures came out. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230829/bf4ccabca797c7265975662164c8b29e.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230829/452c63c1c5abf5270fa0a887fbf3c7b2.jpg

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SupercoolBill

08-28-2023, 11:01 PM

Parts after blasting themhttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230829/f10ed88c3d636fd9a0a79d03ac97a985.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230829/a9545a841e06beb9387a4debe6851f7f.jpg

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SupercoolBill

08-28-2023, 11:02 PM

Lots of broken bolts to try to remove on this engine.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230829/683e50a029580f960843bb5312b2421c.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230829/e236773a59d4fb2f2bf4061734a79074.jpg

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SupercoolBill

08-28-2023, 11:08 PM

I brought the engine block and bottom section to a local motor shop to have it hot tank cleaned. He said he would have it done the next day. It had been four days and he hadn't done the work still. Also as I was leaving I was talking to him and found out he didn't even have a hot tank...just a heated parts cleaner. So I went and got my parts back and cleaned them in my own heated parts cleaner.
I really wish there was a safe way to wet blast this engine block. I may spend the money to have it dry ice blasted somewhere. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230829/e5ff68a4009757a25f283ac6e41070c6.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230829/71883110c2bffc7b352c62b16a780b9d.jpg

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SupercoolBill

08-30-2023, 09:03 PM

I decided to make things easy for myself snd just get a digital caliper. This thing is so much easier to read with my old eyes.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230831/14f3bf986d914ffb99e71533a6af3fe2.jpg

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Helirich

08-31-2023, 07:15 PM

Have you rebuilt engines in the past?

SupercoolBill

08-31-2023, 07:18 PM

I rebuilt a Suzuki Samurai engine in a 12'x12' shed years ago. Have rebuilt several motorcycle engines. My dad is a mechanic so I grew up around it.
It's a challenge since it is not something I do on a regular basis but I feel it is something we can handle if we do our homework and take time.

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SupercoolBill

08-31-2023, 07:20 PM

Timeless

09-01-2023, 07:47 AM

I managed to find a company in my state that does dry ice blasting. They told me $375. Pretty expensive for something that will probably take them less than an hour but I think we are going to do it. I want this block to look like new.
I have a local exotic car dealer I know well and has dry ice cleaning services and I use them for my collection. It's not a quick job. Most undercarriages are 8-10 hours - all dependent on the vehicle and tips used. I am planning to have my DeLorean blasted most likely next year.

SupercoolBill

09-03-2023, 04:14 PM

Latest update. We have found a reputable Delorean shop to sell us heads that are ported, polished, decked, valves ground, cams reground, etc. So we are going to have a stage 2 car. Yeh!!!

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SupercoolBill

09-04-2023, 08:31 AM

Pulled this off the internet. I am really hoping that it is true.

"The Stage II modifications boost the output from 130 bhp to a claimed 215 bhp, taking the 0 ? 60 mph time from 10.5 seconds to 7 seconds"

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Helirich

09-04-2023, 01:02 PM

SupercoolBill

09-04-2023, 01:40 PM

Sounds good. I take it the stage II is turbo? Have you sourced all the parts?No not turbo. Different exhaust, modified cams, head work, etc. but no turbo.

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Helirich

09-04-2023, 08:05 PM

No not turbo. Different exhaust, modified cams, head work, etc. but no turbo.

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Wow, sounds too good to be true. I would love to see the dyna tests on that.

Helirich

09-04-2023, 08:46 PM

Ok, I found the page you were referring to claiming 215 hp. I did some more searching and found this thread.

https://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?1293-DMC-stage-1-and-stage-2-engine-differences

In it they claim much less improvement. Its not completely clear what it is claiming. Most guys are saying around 197 hp., but in one post it says that the stock engine gives 100 hp to the wheels. (Which might be true) Then he goes on to say the stage II puts 130 hp to the wheels. I know there are differences in BHP vs HP at the wheels, but I dont know why the stock engine loses 30 hp and this claimed 197 loses 67 hp.

I suspect that these numbers are estimated at best and should be viewed with extreme caution.

On the other hand, a number of guys got the Stage II and appear to be happy, so it must do something. I feel sure that I gained hp by bolting on the Delorean industry exhaust, but I would not claim a specific amount and certainly not more than 10 percent.

SupercoolBill

09-04-2023, 09:09 PM

Helirich

09-05-2023, 11:01 AM

Yeah I have read a bunch of varying opinions also. Bottom line for $2400 I gain significant HP so I am going for it.
$2400 doesn't include the cost of the exhaust but I needed a new exhaust system anyways.

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I got the exhaust for the same reason as you and was very pleased. The minor power improvement was just a bonus. $2400 doesn?t sound like very much for a noticeable improvement. I would gladly pay that right now if it were that simple. In your case, it?s a no brainer.

SupercoolBill

09-05-2023, 11:44 AM

I got the exhaust for the same reason as you and was very pleased. The minor power improvement was just a bonus. $2400 doesn?t sound like very much for a noticeable improvement. I would gladly pay that right now if it were that simple. In your case, it?s a no brainer.Yup that's the phrase I have been saying. We already have the engine down to the bare block. Gaining hp (and knowing the heads are reconditioned for an additional $2400 (plus shipping charges) is a no brainer.

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SupercoolBill

09-05-2023, 10:09 PM

Tonight I got the heads ready to be mailed for a core.
I'm trying to find the right size boxes and the cheapest way to ship them.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230906/a8184ddc773a5a993919254f3258e9cd.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230906/d0c7e2feb01a7b94a39633860af3cfb9.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230906/128a3f79609cd0505f4d884d5cf79c65.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230906/2a792422d41c54ca80cc3cafb5d6770a.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230906/207ecc20277f2938f16621939f83441a.jpg

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SupercoolBill

09-05-2023, 10:16 PM

Did more digging in the VOD (valley of death). Just when I think I have dug and scraped all of the crap out if there I manage to dig out a bunch more. What is coming out now reminds me of the stuff that grows on old batteries when they leak. So far no holes through but some pretty good divits. I can't believe how deep these are once all the crap is dug out!https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230906/5fd5acb48397aa4c8d106d72dd9cf534.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230906/395679ace1d7d3b8524dce279a5fe8fe.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230906/ea23da5c7e161c85e8cdbf1a4032c0ff.jpg

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Bitsyncmaster

09-06-2023, 06:08 AM

I used wire brushes on a Dremal hand held flex extension to clean my VOD.

SupercoolBill

09-10-2023, 09:51 PM

I ordered some plugs on Amazon. I plugged every port I could on the block. I am going to yank out all of the factory plugs to clean the oil galleys after blasting but I figured the more stuff I keep out of there the better. I blasted the heck out of the valley. Man I forgot how much of a pain in the butt my bead blaster is. You can't see what the heck your doing, my dust collector motor is dying, I have some junk in the glass beads that keeps plugging up the gun. Ugh...I need to spend some time working on my equipment one of these days.
Anyway after an hour or so I got the VOD cleaned up pretty good. It looks pretty good but there didn't seem to be any holes through the block....yet.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230911/c7cbeb3817256c0f6fa2acd4089cc0f3.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230911/80f45206c1c83e9030e11c1364368c70.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230911/1adbae7e39dc0291ee568e138074b9c5.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230911/baebc4fc9690ad4d061e6eb1f68ceda1.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230911/19a26b1762e816d8935209cb109d419e.jpg

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SupercoolBill

09-10-2023, 10:10 PM

I know I am going to take some flack for it but I feel strongly that I can and should use this block. I also think that JB weld will work great to patch up the existing block rot and to prevent future potential damage. I am also really leaning towards painting the VOD with something.
I sprayed degreaser onto the VOD to remove any remaining oils. I filled the four deep pockets with 1" of degreaser with the block on an oil soak pad and paper towels to test and see if there was any leakage. Good news. No leakage.
So my plan is to buy a bunch of JB Weld. I'm going to mix it up, start by laying some down in the base of the voids. I'll take a dowel or something and use if to push the JB Weld down into the clean, porous surface. Next I'll do the same on the walls of the voids. Then last but not least I think I will finish filling the voids 3/4 of the way full with JB weld.
Here are some pics of testing for leaks with degreaser.
I feel very fortunate to be doing all of this work with the engine out of the car and torn apart....and that I have a blasting booth.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230911/34bb5732515be170cb71ecca8f44a0cf.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230911/724f316327c6f2b940245f7bd799abb8.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230911/041eaa2138327e0d2bdb9ad6533e9a31.jpg

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SupercoolBill

09-10-2023, 10:17 PM

The wife vapor blasted parts while I cleaned them really well, dried them, and sprayed a mist of oil on them to protect them. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230911/f4633f766772a2a1fff2b3068a1f1022.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230911/80517c46845bc310ccdc999214652110.jpg

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SupercoolBill

09-10-2023, 10:21 PM

Scraped what I could of the timing cover gasket off then used my pneumatic tool to finish the job. Man what a pain!! This had to be one of the worst gaskets I have ever dealt with. It was rock hard and thoroughly stuck to the cover. It took me at least an hour to get the old gasket removed.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230911/911387556f4401c92dcc8855f701f863.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230911/8e8335d1d34911d4c91b7db4f97e0347.jpg

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SupercoolBill

09-10-2023, 10:25 PM

Next I removed yet ANOTHER broken bolt. I heated up the timing cover with a torch, clamped onto what was left of the bolt, and just kept trying to get the tiniest amount of rotational movement on the bolt which eventually I did and was able to get it loose enough to punch it out.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230911/802ecd269e087146ef7d876bed864062.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230911/72f46a0a45dac3600ac9303cd99f92f1.jpg

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SupercoolBill

09-10-2023, 10:30 PM

Last thing I did before calling it a night was to blast the worst side of the crank case to see how bad it really is. It is REALLY BAD!. I am actually just going to try to find a good replacement part for this. It is too far gone. Could JB weld fix it? Probably but it is structural so I'm not going to risk it. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230911/00ba22901858cbf26a301a668b47da6b.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230911/61d36428b7f482687ae5214118bb20dd.jpg

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Helirich

09-11-2023, 01:49 PM

Last thing I did before calling it a night was to blast the worst side of the crank case to see how bad it really is. It is REALLY BAD!. I am actually just going to try to find a good replacement part for this. It is too far gone. Could JB weld fix it? Probably but it is structural so I'm not going to risk it.

If you think the structure is good enough, JB might be able to stop further corrosion. But I wouldn?t count on it adding strength. I wonder if a guy good with a mig could add metal to that?

SupercoolBill

09-11-2023, 02:52 PM

If you think the structure is good enough, JB might be able to stop further corrosion. But I wouldn?t count on it adding strength. I wonder if a guy good with a mig could add metal to that?I have a guy but I would still have somehow get the studs out still. It's just not worth it. Mike at DMW is going to sell me a really nice lower case case for $425+shipping.

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https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230911/f69f2e42dfa7a635559beb27d6fe5bff.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230911/e18db630aab156fc9ae7041f7fc0b7d8.jpg

Helirich

09-11-2023, 05:09 PM

I would have expected a lot higher price for that. Not worth fooling with the old one for that.

SupercoolBill

09-13-2023, 08:55 PM

Update- The search for a good lower crankcase turned into a bidding war. I ended up buying a nice used part from a fellow Delorean owner for $275 shipped. I am very happy with the offer that Mike gave me but if I can save some a decent amount of money I have to do it.

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SupercoolBill

09-13-2023, 09:00 PM

Tonight the wife vapor blasted some more parts while I worked on the VOD. I'm glad I bought the jumbo size tubes of JB Weld because I used a lot of it. In fact I ended up using two large tube kits and a regular kit and I still need more because I have decided to fill in all of the voids.
This is one of the worst areas. That is the oil galley. With that material missing the wall thickness can't be very thick.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230914/47b24a66add801e0031c3cc95517f84c.jpg

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SupercoolBill

09-13-2023, 09:15 PM

I have been thinking of this a lot over the past few days so I had a good plan. I jumped right in by emptying the tubes from one kit and mixing them together. I took a plastic butter knife and used it to spread the goop onto the walls of two of the four really deep valleys. I pushed it into the rough surfaces of the walls. Once I had the walls coated I just started shoveling goop into the voids. My hope was that it would be runny enough that it would settle into the voids filling from the bottom up. I poked around with the knife to make sure no air pockets were remaining. Just filling these two voids used 80-90% of the JB Weld from the first kit. I used what was left to fill in some of the other low areas. I used the same technique of pushing the goop into the aluminum to make sure it really locks in. It would have been nice to make it come out more smooth but I didn't want to keep messing with it.
I used the other large tube kit to do the same thing on the other half of the valley. I'm loving how this is coming out so I am going to buy one more large kit to finish filling in the valley. I may have to rename it when I am done...maybe "The Valley of JB".https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230914/e5056304c8a78b6565a45f15d6c87ac8.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230914/842ba68e69aa713aac7843a40a3d35de.jpg

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SupercoolBill

09-14-2023, 08:57 AM

I checked the JB Weld this morning and it has set up nicely.

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Helirich

09-14-2023, 08:30 PM

SupercoolBill

09-15-2023, 09:27 AM

Wow, so we?re there any holes, or you are just stopping further corrosion? Do they get holes there often? I?ve never looked in mine. Is that a common fix for that? I suppose that doesn?t get any hotter than the water temp. Should be alright for JB.No holes. I pooled up degreaser in there and none bled through. Stopping any future corrosion but also sealing it from leaking incase it is so thin that it would have leaked in the future. Yes block rot is a fairly common issue on these engines. This is not a common fix as far as I know and I am sure I will catch some flack for doing it. Heat shouldn't be an issue as JB Weld is rated for over 500 degrees F.

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SupercoolBill

09-15-2023, 09:32 AM

Yesterday I bought one more of the large tube kits. After work I filled in the last areas that I wanted to hit. Once again I am liking how this is coming out. I think I am also going to take it one step further and paint the valley with engine primer and paint.

The special sized boxes that I ordered came in so I boxed up my heads so I can get them mailed out to DMW. They look like a giant burrito. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230915/d0be1c83cdb8c15573e385c7e50ec0e6.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230915/f7bbb9fc663a96a131989ce4b1c151c6.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230915/67dc1bc098fd2abcdfe6bb3f0cd12f34.jpg

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SupercoolBill

09-15-2023, 09:40 AM

Since it looks like this stock engine rebuild is actually going to happen I worked on a list of parts for the engine. This ended up taking like 4 hours. I had to look through my boxes of what I already had, go through every page of the parts manual that shows anything related to the engine and make my own list with part numbers. I ended up with 7 pages of stuff.
I discovered that even though I paid for a full engine gasket/seal kit I am missing a bunch of seals. I am not sure if the kit I ordered didn't include them, I was supposed to get them and they didn't get added to my order, or I somehow lost or misplaced them. Regardless it is pretty frustrating when you thought you paid for one thing and discover you have to pay for some of it all over again.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230915/2022f5f83b3901a29811a2029f020481.jpg

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SupercoolBill

09-17-2023, 08:50 AM

I spent a bunch of time ordering nuts, bolts, washers, and little trinkets last night. I ended up ordering them from D-go. For some reason I find their website to be the easiest/quickest to punch in part numbers and enter the quantity I want. And I had a LOT of part numbers. I like that every part has a picture or pictures of it so i can verify that I am order the right thing. I also like the fact that every fastener or fasteners that are one part number come in a little bag labeled with that part number. It make reassembling the car like a Lego set. I just follow the manual and grab the baggie with that part number on it. Big time saver especially with the wife working on this project with me. Also I always get my stuff ridiculously fast with no missing parts ever.

I will be ordering piston rings, cylendar sleeve gaskets (shims), cylendar holders, etc. From one (or more) of the US vendors.
By the way I found that the price of piston ring kits is all over the place. Anything from as low as $90 to as much as over $500!!
I did some asking around and was told that not all kits are created equal. So the $90 ones (which I have been told are made in China and not good) are out.

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SupercoolBill

09-19-2023, 09:28 PM

Today was a good day. Well, it was another super stressful overwhelming day as a small business owner BUT parts showed up at my doorstep.
The used lower crankcase section that purchased showed up from CO. and a bunch of parts I ordered from D-Go in the UK showed up.
I know I have said this over and over but DANG! how the heck is D-Go taking my order, pulling my order, putting each part or batch of parts in little individual bags labeled WITH the part number, packaging it all, shipping it out, and getting it to my shop in 2.5 days!?!?! And the S&H is free! And it was ordered on a Sunday night. Amazing.[emoji2962]
I bought basically every plug, nut, bolt, washer, sensor, sending unit, gasket, o-ring, etc for the engine. I have all the equipment necessary to restore my rusty old headlight mounts but I decided that for the price of new ones it isn't worth my time.
There are some more parts that are more critical which I will be ordering from a US vendor. Piston rings, cylendar base seals, etc.

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Timeless

09-20-2023, 07:53 AM

I know I have said this over and over but DANG! how the heck is D-Go taking my order, pulling my order, putting each part or batch of parts in little individual bags labeled WITH the part number, packaging it all, shipping it out, and getting it to my shop in 2.5 days!?!?! And the S&H is free! And it was ordered on a Sunday night. Amazing.
They are most likely pre-bagged and sitting in inventory ready to be picked for orders. Like you, I bought their headlights mounts and buckets and ended up powder coating the mounting. Glad to see they make/have them since I'm not aware of any other vendor offering new ones.

SupercoolBill

09-20-2023, 10:40 AM

They are most likely pre-bagged and sitting in inventory ready to be picked for orders. Like you, I bought their headlights mounts and buckets and ended up powder coating the mounting. Glad to see they make/have them since I'm not aware of any other vendor offering new ones.Yeah I get that for some of the items but there were a lot of items like bolts, nuts, etc. That I had random counts of how many I needed.

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SupercoolBill

09-20-2023, 09:53 PM

Tonight after work the wife cleaned up the engine part and started working on fixing up the seat rails.
Meanwhile I took my hand written list of parts I recently order and the actual parts and I went through every part one at a time. I also re-organized my parts for the project. I made separate boxes for many things such as air intake system, air mixture control, oil pan and baffle plate parts, etc.
I added a brief description to the tags on the bags of parts. Believe it or not this burned up about 4 hours.
I did let myself install one new part. A nice aluminum anodized magnet drain plug.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230921/4c4ba9bfa0fea0c340026aaa9cee03a3.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230921/e035edf9188e20fe8fbd52df2ac7bad3.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230921/074e396487ac6a56a660bdac394cb3b4.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230921/14b93f530379e5de88621f87ebb7daa5.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230921/5623fe82e50db0a4e590effdda7b2250.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230921/59df880e41959e95ba4b64a5ef08f98b.jpg

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SupercoolBill

09-22-2023, 03:43 PM

Last night I dry blasted then wet blasted the engine block. I dry blasted the valley so the engine enamel would stick well to the JB Weld.
The left and right side, and the bell housing end of the block was really nasty and was taking forever. I could have made it look a lot nicer but decided it was getting too late and called it good at 7P because I knew I still had at least an hour of cleaning to do after.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230922/09e249f13cd8ebfb79c825c067a4bd3b.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230922/c3ed143b38946871676ed08a06ac45df.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230922/d762960c21ff1e0ef357634a121c76ba.jpg

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SupercoolBill

09-22-2023, 03:50 PM

Next I hosed the block down with my soap foam gun and washed the block really well to get any remaining glass beads that didn't get rinse when I rinsed it in the vapor blaster.
I am really glad I decided to purchase and install the rubber plugs. They worked great for keep the blasting media from getting in everywhere. I am still planning on pulling all of the push-plugs out of the block to run brushes through and blow through every passageway though just to make sure nothing snuck through.
I'm not sure what they mean but there are numbers made into the engine in several places. Things that you never notice on a nasty dirty engine.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230922/d8dd0a51bb108af1c3498c5b1badb24a.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230922/0e2d9c5146404643ca5763a36199f4f9.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230922/907f029545bc20b66d5000b3afc87dcd.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230922/c58f6ad1ea975d6b47597560828fb5ce.jpg

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SupercoolBill

09-22-2023, 03:55 PM

After I washed the block I took compressed air and blew the water off it. I also used the sir gun to clear the glass beads out of any tapped holes in the block. I could very easily tell the ones I had put plugs in and the ones I hadn't. Note to self...wear safety glasses when blowing out blind bolt holes after vapor blasting. The media blasts you right in the face.
It's not perfect but it looks 100% better than it did before. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230922/a04920eae4127fa91368b801c9e85f04.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230922/4ee22dce8dfbf18982c1cceb2c36380e.jpg

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SupercoolBill

09-22-2023, 04:02 PM

Today it was really nice out and I didn't want to sit in my office doing HVAC quotes so I painted the valley.
First I taped off the parts I didn't want painted. Next I used some prep spray with is probably just a degreaser. Then I primed two coats and painted with aluminum colored engine paint two coats.
I had some Cast Aluminum engine engine paint also that I didn't use but I now wish that i would have. It would have matched the sides of the block better. Oh well.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230922/bff5925639da88cf4d8c89424389dab7.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230922/8ae328ea004adcd26fe84beaa6e30c31.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230922/b34f7e540b6f267ae818c0ee108f4d79.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230922/1c4459ffa67565d6a00aef6685014552.jpg

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SupercoolBill

09-22-2023, 04:10 PM

Last night I had my wife wire wheel the idle control valve so we would paint it. She did a good job but all I could think about is how much better of a job the vapor blaster would do. So I said screw it. I jammed some plastic plugs into the ports nice and tight and taped over the plug connector. It came out really nice. I already had some gold engine paint so I primed it then used the gold to try to match the original zinc with yellow chromate coating that came on it from Bosch. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230922/dad503e07836165b65c208549c7e2085.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230922/89ef1b6e3cd2cb756f907f30bdaae72f.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230922/edf01105c086e771f90bc98a6c3445fe.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230922/7829ab2f0ec304a1c4c580c666405b8c.jpg

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SupercoolBill

09-22-2023, 04:13 PM

Today the order from Belmetric showed up. This is every nut, bolt, and washer that goes on the outside of the transmission. Thanks 82DMC-12 -(Andy L) for hooking me up with the hardware list. It came out to around $100 with shipping.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230922/cf416471a01c1f92be72836035ed7491.jpg

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SupercoolBill

10-02-2023, 12:20 PM

I'm slacking on my updates. We worked on the car some last week. We did some cleaning and maintenance on the vapor blaster. We dry blasted the lower engine case part (girdle?) The piece is in good shape but was very dirty so it took quite a lot of time to get cleaned up. I hate all the cavities on this motor. It's nearly impossible to get all of the crap out of those pits. I am tempted to fill them in with gray RTV.
After two hours of work with the vapor blaster it came out looking pretty sweet.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20231002/a3ee2dfb9d14fe863deb6d94dff2fc89.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20231002/26cdce816ec5d7786a20cad1b81b8b20.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20231002/f7dbf6e7d0887b70f1d62ab295617876.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20231002/e6f05ed886c2863165cb848c0ae06f2f.jpg

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SupercoolBill

10-02-2023, 12:48 PM

I picked one cylendar to clean the gasket off from, try my hand at honing, and measuring the bore.
These things are definitely things that are an acquired talent. I struggle with getting good bore measurements, doing the math of what is acceptable and what isn't. From what I can tell this one seems pretty good. I have a buddy that is a machinist. I've invited him to come over some time to teach me the best way to do this and to double check my numbers.
One thing I don't understand is why the manual and everyone I talk to says to put the cylendars back in the same way they came out. If the cylendars tend to wear on the thrust axis why wouldn't it make sense to turn all of the cylendars 90 degrees from where they were for the last 40k miles to get some new material on the thrust axis?
Yeah there would be a break in period but isn't there going to be a break in period with the new piston rings anyways?

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SupercoolBill

10-02-2023, 01:00 PM

Tried the screw trick for pulling out plugs on intake assembly. It didn't work for me. The screws just kept pulling out. I decided I was going to have to drill out the plugs as large as I could then try to carefully use a tiny Sawzall blade to make a relief cut and hopefully pop the plug out. After I got the hole drilled larger it dawned on me that I could just use a steel rod to drive the opposite side plug out then use that hole to drive this one out. It worked like a charm so I did the same thing on the other two.
I used some brushes to clean out all of the passageways. I ended up not needing to take out the last two plugs (luckily!) I didn't really get very many glass beads out. Mostly just dried up oil dust.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20231002/6795784ed8e87ab286199dfb9a74261d.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20231002/79db278b744527a03d9f843795d3c784.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20231002/2c8bc1b1210cbd806871c70115083e9c.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20231002/9690688f4ca40f8bed7eb9d660cf6b73.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20231002/a9b1a994752fb561b69c68b7d2590f59.jpg

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SupercoolBill

10-02-2023, 10:08 PM

I used the same metal rod to drive out the oil plug in the main overhead galley. I put some motoseal in the hole before pounding in a new plug. I found no traces of any glass beads anywhere in any of the oil passageways. I ran a brush through the passageways, sprayed cleaner through, etc.
I couldn't be more pleased. But then I did a really dumb thing. I decided to got back around with the air gun double checking bolt holes and stuff. Well wouldn't you know it I must have missed one of the bolt holes in the bottom of the block because when I hit it with the air glass bead dust when everywhere. Now the block feels like it has a dusting of sand on it. So I am going to have to wipe down the whole inside of the block. Duh....https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20231003/1c0b44b530ffbbf7a628855c372ea772.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20231003/c287fbcef01dd2b927e560d9c6d4f178.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20231003/4f69e32c8fa3c78531a6208ff64c2529.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20231003/5d2f5d829adc4d97d65006944b5b4e1e.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20231003/0e247d9a4b044f5cd6a2ced03d7da1a2.jpg

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SupercoolBill

10-04-2023, 05:37 PM

I recieved more stuff in the mail today.
A special set of square sockets that I ordered for coolant plugs and other things. I also received a good used Y-pipe and the special bolt that holds on the air meter disk. The Y-pipe is in MUCH better shape than the one I had. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20231004/90dd897c54f9895ada9b2f7fdb536f1b.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20231004/a47257aae5bc918847f91d1a709d1b60.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20231004/cb4b134bb81beb0a164108b27522a6c1.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20231004/56d17ab5753c2954a1e9cfcc7904b1de.jpg

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SupercoolBill

10-08-2023, 08:06 AM

Spent some time on a rainy Saturday working on the car. The wife removed the sliders from the other seat, cleaned them up with wire wheels on a grinder and a die grinder, primed, and painted all of the sliders and the adjuster from the second seat. She also spent time vapor blasting the Y-pipe that we later discovered we can't use because it is missing the threaded hole for one of the temperature switches.
The interesting thing is the parts manual that we have doesn't show the threaded hole or the temperature switch that goes in it. [emoji848]🫤https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20231008/087f60a2f9f982c3c7a5a2540c0bf836.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20231008/9119ad6d2e165b251c46b4358048b707.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20231008/e9c6447ee751245534d0e2bc04a3a1f8.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20231008/7af4ca33c5e156572dd698299bc6da43.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20231008/a6d05a0c60bec3d6cc124092c44b096a.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20231008/eb552c4037052512d0a36c3d3c022736.jpg

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