1982 Frame Off Restoration

[SupercoolBill]

Used these boiler brushes to break free the loose rust inside the roof box.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260226/f45ddbe089459a595e308cf4aa0e59e4.jpg
Vacuumed out the rust debris
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260226/fdc0382be2851337575e1200527c8356.jpg

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[SupercoolBill]

I emptied this whole can into the roof box.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260226/2af82498a2bfb4833d0c774b6a7db475.jpg
Well there's a leak area
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260226/c8451d9094367cc8a3710b4439e5e2e7.jpg
Called it a night. Driving the car with an 80# door just held up with a piece of lumber seems somewhat dangerous....
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260226/3b3002f90f122a21927976d8b38c394b.jpg

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[Bitsyncmaster]

Use some wood on those vice grip jaws. Or you can use a Jorgensen clamp. I use these many times for different clamping needs.

https://www.amazon.com/Jorgensen-Size-6-Inch-Handscrews-Clamp/dp/B0000224CR/ref=sr_1_16?adgrpid=185084437863&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.MCz6nrT4fNSJtq2mpBETWmCRJs1DXFrJE Jzk0idO6hOl6DPWNghu35AcAlJBM0JopEYMsYXICRF25yqdjE8 CS7ynuLmLBXh6p6MsNz5pDngxzlVL6HgCtCUzi3WK9oi1A8FRj 6RzyCm05_pwa97gwU362SyX18ztY6uUFLU7vm5SjtAnv92u7Js E6i7tDkKaRg887pwIxwYOrudXkpKn89te-QIp0wTxeGTRktn2YaZOwTj2oe4T_5qGnVSQB05IAQma5DD2GPA tp1mL9-ZaCDvVn1381QVel1KorgvMa-E.WcJqrEGZBu5maEbDYf0c06tpzWUYU_EGtH8Y98TibUA&dib_tag=se&hvadid=779633365376&hvdev=c&hvexpln=0&hvlocphy=9058125&hvnetw=g&hvocijid=3403293309380324428--&hvqmt=e&hvrand=3403293309380324428&hvtargid=kwd-716658070&hydadcr=17508_13751666_2109991&keywords=jorgensen%2Bwood%2Bclamps&mcid=7a3923df8bfc3fd4b46c026fb6770446&qid=1772105493&sr=8-16&th=1

[SupercoolBill]

Use some wood on those vice grip jaws. Or you can use a Jorgensen clamp. I use these many times for different clamping needs.

https://www.amazon.com/Jorgensen-Size-6-Inch-Handscrews-Clamp/dp/B0000224CR/ref=sr_1_16?adgrpid=185084437863&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.MCz6nrT4fNSJtq2mpBETWmCRJs1DXFrJE Jzk0idO6hOl6DPWNghu35AcAlJBM0JopEYMsYXICRF25yqdjE8 CS7ynuLmLBXh6p6MsNz5pDngxzlVL6HgCtCUzi3WK9oi1A8FRj 6RzyCm05_pwa97gwU362SyX18ztY6uUFLU7vm5SjtAnv92u7Js E6i7tDkKaRg887pwIxwYOrudXkpKn89te-QIp0wTxeGTRktn2YaZOwTj2oe4T_5qGnVSQB05IAQma5DD2GPA tp1mL9-ZaCDvVn1381QVel1KorgvMa-E.WcJqrEGZBu5maEbDYf0c06tpzWUYU_EGtH8Y98TibUA&dib_tag=se&hvadid=779633365376&hvdev=c&hvexpln=0&hvlocphy=9058125&hvnetw=g&hvocijid=3403293309380324428--&hvqmt=e&hvrand=3403293309380324428&hvtargid=kwd-716658070&hydadcr=17508_13751666_2109991&keywords=jorgensen%2Bwood%2Bclamps&mcid=7a3923df8bfc3fd4b46c026fb6770446&qid=1772105493&sr=8-16&th=1Surprisingly the teeth on my visegrips matched up pretty well with the splines. I was just using the. For something to tap on with a hammer. I kept removing them and putting the splined plate back on to make sure I wasn't messing up the splines.

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[Mark D]

You can get stainless Phillips screws in black oxide from McMaster-Carr if you're going down the rabbit hole of replacing them all. I used these all over the front trunk area and random other places. Just measure the thread lengths on your old screws beforehand so you know how long to get. The regular mild steel black screws only hold up for so long before they start to get rusty.

https://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=72024&d=1772117324

You can also get black stainless for all the screws on the exterior for the turn signal lenses, marker lights, tail lights, etc. but I think it's cheaper to buy one of the black stainless screw kits from one of the vendors rather than buy them all individually.

[SupercoolBill]

You can get stainless Phillips screws in black oxide from McMaster-Carr if you're going down the rabbit hole of replacing them all. I used these all over the front trunk area and random other places. Just measure the thread lengths on your old screws beforehand so you know how long to get. The regular mild steel black screws only hold up for so long before they start to get rusty.

https://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=72024&d=1772117324

You can also get black stainless for all the screws on the exterior for the turn signal lenses, marker lights, tail lights, etc. but I think it's cheaper to buy one of the black stainless screw kits from one of the vendors rather than buy them all individually.Yeah I already bought the black stainless exterior screws kit.
I bought the plastic black screws for all of the cover panels in the fronk.

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[SupercoolBill]

Well, the penitrating fluid must have done something over night.
This morning I put the Allen socket in the torsion rod on my breaker bar and barely put any CCW pressure on it and "POP" it moved.
It was a five minute fight of wiggling CCW/CW while pulling on the rod as hard as I could but eventually it came out.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260226/7d2a3d297056ccd165ba481dc93b127b.jpg
Now I can get in there better to clean, seal, and paint.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260226/b1ca89e9b16679191addc4a994393f88.jpg
I tested the rod with a magnet and it is magnetic so if they are S.S. it must not be pure. So should I be painting these with a light coat of paint or wipe down with oil?

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[SupercoolBill]

It looks like I got the inside of the roofbox pretty well aside from the ceiling of it in some areas.

https://youtu.be/QuCl05CjGw8?si=hadA17RGDmtEZTz-

Next up is the 3M Body Cavity Wax.
The paint is not fully dried yet though.

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[SupercoolBill]

Worked on the car for an hour today.
Drilled a bunch of 1/4" holes and put in aluminum rivets for some added insurance.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260227/7c096fa64ddbe86a09c5bfd857b7ed27.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260227/89602571cf5759430eba6865298019e5.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260227/740365cd57dba66def72f75b450c12ba.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260227/c21819536289a57969ba7a4c90e49947.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260227/02330c734430f3f7d81935f940385f37.jpg

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[SupercoolBill]

I removed the torsion rod so I could assess and pull out this rubber boot that the wires run it. I didn't like how it was shaped. I fed the wires out through the roof box.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260226/ecc17a1cb2fb0c03e9d6e3ed25b1d43b.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260226/e45f2b5ce268018a5e2d2b4db3eee785.jpg

I found that the top side of the rubber piece is torn.
Anyone know where I can get one of these? I am pretty sure they are NLA.

Sent from my SM-S928U using TapatalkI found a source for this NLA part. Yeah!!!

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[SupercoolBill]

We worked on the car for a few hours after work.
The devil's in the details. Prepped the door hinges, sides of the roof box etc. for paint and sealing.
This involved proving the door all the way open, closing it, opening it again.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260306/73943f574076b947964aa7019ea538ed.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260306/726ccf542ee776423249f3458aa53ac6.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260306/a9b78c9b2738ab18ff002571b67607a5.jpg

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[SupercoolBill]

I put Tam to work painting the hinges, etc. I scoped out the new top door rubber seals.
I am not sure which way this is supposed to go. The new seal has a curve to it. If align the shape of the old part with the shape of the new one the curve seems to go the opposite way.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260306/1fb78bd9593f68e1be52b00fbc7f04fd.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260306/0ac3914c38d44d49c5c7d3b80d1ff0af.jpg
I took my best guess and drilled holes through the rubber.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260306/549e65b4ad4523febaafca3752064b1c.jpg
I glued the rubber to the plate
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260306/594332e1eb27b9c8dd47843d2481a0e4.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260306/8f30a1f3decb83cd4b157f454ed74a11.jpg

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[SupercoolBill]

Sealant applied to this plate
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260306/cead4ade3063b3d7fee5f693a45e8f01.jpg
Installed with some nice black screws.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260306/4e62e24f4cc23f186cae9a25e1ce7e74.jpg
Purrrty
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260306/b21964c8aacad12f3937ccae2cbc35c0.jpg

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[SupercoolBill]

One thing I noticed that I hadn't before the end of the left and right torsion rod is made in a different shape.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260306/f96b191bf037410a60ac68ebba855970.jpg

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[Helirich]

Hmmm, would the drivers door be different somehow because of more use.

[SupercoolBill]

Hmmm, would the drivers door be different somehow because of more use.I think it may be because of the rotation of the rods. They are probably not designed to rotate on the opposite direction of what they were made for at Grumman Aerospace or whatever.

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[Helirich]

I think it may be because of the rotation of the rods. They are probably not designed to rotate on the opposite direction of what they were made for at Grumman Aerospace or whatever.

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Yea, that sounds right.

[SupercoolBill]

Needful things. This showed up today from the Netherlands today (Ed). Cost us over $60.00 U.S. but nobody else had one and ours is all discombobulated.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260306/88da4a6820c3dcd9ac41eb6baafb9517.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260306/28c6f58f9c7d026be91de6f065442eb6.jpg

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[Timeless]

So not doing the SS roofbox? Want to sell it?

[SupercoolBill]

So not doing the SS roofbox? Want to sell it?Yeah I may be interested in selling it. PM me.

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[Rich]

I think it may be because of the rotation of the rods. They are probably not designed to rotate on the opposite direction of what they were made for at Grumman Aerospace or whatever.

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Confirming that's exactly why they designed the fixed end of each of the two bars differently - so they're not interchangeable L-R.

Enough torque in the incorrect direction for either door may delaminate/break the bar.

This is why you must torque each one ONLY in the correct direction for that side when installing them - in the direction that helps open the door on that side of the car.

[Rich]

I can't tell from the photos whether your upper door seals are oriented correctly.

The correct orientation has each seal with its concave side facing up with the door closed.

You can't count on duplicating the orientation of the old seal due to possible PO repair mistakes.


I put Tam to work painting the hinges, etc. I scoped out the new top door rubber seals.

I am not sure which way this is supposed to go. The new seal has a curve to it. If align the shape of the old part with the shape of the new one the curve seems to go the opposite way.

I took my best guess and drilled holes through the rubber.

I glued the rubber to the plate

[SupercoolBill]

I can't tell from the photos whether your upper door seals are oriented correctly.

The correct orientation has each seal with its concave side facing up with the door closed.

You can't count on duplicating the orientation of the old seal due to possible PO repair mistakes.I was afraid you'd say that. I have them the other way. Which is the way the old ones seemed to be going.

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[SupercoolBill]

I found this video on YouTube.

https://youtu.be/ZgJZPw4qyLo?si=VhS_gf5uQrNIsVa5

Looks like we are trying to put the rubber pieces on the wring way.

This doesn't make any sense with how the seals are made and which one is labeled as left and which one is labeled as right.
I may have to do a YouTube video on this. It is difficult to properly explain through pictures.

Some people are telling me these "seals" are not needed and don't actually do anything except make noise when you open and close the door. Thoughts?



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[Bitsyncmaster]

I found this video on YouTube.

https://youtu.be/ZgJZPw4qyLo?si=VhS_gf5uQrNIsVa5

Looks like we are trying to put the rubber pieces on the wring way.

This doesn't make any sense with how the seals are made and which one is labeled as left and which one is labeled as right.
I may have to do a YouTube video on this. It is difficult to properly explain through pictures.

Some people are telling me these "seals" are not needed and don't actually do anything except make noise when you open and close the door. Thoughts?



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I had bought new seals. They were made a bit thicker than the originals. I had a problem with the new seals. They would fold over when opening the door and seemed to make the door not open fully on their own power. I ended up removing the drivers side. I don't think the seals do anything except hide the gap and hinges from sight when doors are closed. Any rain would just drain as normal down the tub ridges. I did try to put that seal back in recently and cut it 0.3 inches from the edge of the stainless seal plate. I have it installed and there is a little gap in a few areas. I should have cut it 0.4 or 0.5 inches. The seals will fold over hitting the hinge bolts.

[Timeless]

Yeah I may be interested in selling it. PM me.
PM sent.

[SupercoolBill]

We worked on the car for 6 hours today.
I spent some time looking at the door seals again. I thought maybe DMCH had their left and right mixed up but after looking at all the options I realized that there was pretty much only one way they would fit right.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260307/b3cbe3dad6800ccb1a05cfc047b46ec3.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260307/7d00e0345836993af0f9c16be0ab6130.jpg
And this meant that the concave side faces down. So that is how they are installed. Installing these is challenging and there is definitely a trick to it.

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[SupercoolBill]

This is the left side done.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260307/50884bcf5a812f3ce25c211abc39f032.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260307/d8e92a773967f73a748ed7f0671e067e.jpg
We set up the plate one notch less than it was before.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260307/dfa3b653c5bf599818cbf667b4ee54ea.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260307/b733284c1c0fe31d91fc54794a3167af.jpg
The door rests at almost closed with the lift strut not installed yet which is less than suggested but because our D-go lift struts are pretty powerful and we are going to be replacing the lock solenoids with new lighter ones, this is where we wanted it.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260307/fed98216fa1d3795c6943ba160933f56.jpg
With the lift strut installed the door opened perfectly.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260307/b3849122a8f4990c12d397420113732a.jpg

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[SupercoolBill]

Next up the right side. By the way if you ever work on your doors do yourself a favor and buy a truck bed load pole from Harbor Freight. You can set it for any height, it ratchets, and it is cheap. And you can use it in your truck or SUV to keep loads from sliding.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260307/4f9924e5f457427b39d398ca0c638aea.jpg

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[SupercoolBill]

We removed the wiring boot. I ended up lifting the door as far as I dared to.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260307/a19946a72d823839e33fb06305532cf0.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260307/b62456c1a3b41ec2e5ed439bfd0cabb5.jpg
Yuck
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260307/15e9ae9fda4a02521df4e85239915bb9.jpg
This thing looks funny. Looks like a snail or something.
So it turns out it isn't torn. It had just become dislodged at some point. If someone had time and patience they could probably get this one back into usable condition.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260307/fb2e5990d6e5a00b08bfcc1c6f568b23.jpg
My best imitation of it-
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260307/470979c6a5bf0a8a227994d07701806e.jpg

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[SupercoolBill]

I ended up unpining one of the connectors so we could feed the wires through the rubber sleeve.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260307/f7eb9fdfe8165272edeca428c71071f4.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260307/f45428d12d1e8f43c4ceca2a645f27b4.jpg
I didn't want the same thing to happen again so I glued the sleeve to the plate with black contact cement.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260307/ad6e87889aa55d45223c8b82bb4a3167.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260307/a0a63be631d2ac70bdec76152c588430.jpg
With the door raised up as far as it can go (with no lift strut or torque rod installed) my rivet tool just barely fit. In fact I had to tap on it to get it to go in there.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260307/1c6970db21614798ae5853891e5d3919.jpg
This picture shows just how hyper-extended the door has to be.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260307/6c0393b7dcb8483756232b3ad79dba24.jpg
Done deal
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260307/6df9d0eff1ea63dde5e7a6c8570805bb.jpg

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[SupercoolBill]

Meanwhile Tam prepped and painted the top of the roof box, the rear of the roof box, etc.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260307/587526cf08ce6d922fc33aa53fa460fd.jpg
With both doors back in working order the last thing we did today was to coat the inside of the roof box with Cavity Wax.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260307/9ca0cd3a22227da2d7265e8aa785881b.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260307/de09d26b80924db2c908583ee1dbc3c9.jpg
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https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260307/ad0f50870aad429ce87a0e4c95f93cf5.jpg

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[SupercoolBill]

We worked on the car for a few hours tonight. Main objective- swap out fuel distributor, rough adjustment of CO screw, see how the car runs.
I opened the fuel distributor which we had sent to DMCH for a full rebuild, testing, calibration.
Immediately upon unwrapping it I noticed a couple things. The fuel distributor seemed to be in worse shape than when I had sent it. The paint job looked like someone just waved the spray of a paint can past one side of it. Or maybe a 8 year old kid painted it. Mine had been well prepped and painted really good with fuel proof paint. Then I looked at the I.D. tag and it looked not as nice as mine was....and maybe even a different color.
So I looked at my pictures.
Sure enough....this is not the fuel distributor that I sent them.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260312/e8dadf8a364a1b0f7dd479f6c7840e39.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260312/5b247b2fdb5ae3244c338333c6d0ebf4.jpg

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[SupercoolBill]

Pictures of the disappointing paint job. I know it is just a fuel distributor but you guys have seen the condition of my engine. I want this thing to look perfect.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260312/d486e4e0ed9dba18d0f24eca32ed5f14.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260312/66e630dbd01e32f008eb6bfc2c6ada0f.jpg

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[SupercoolBill]

We did the thing where you hook up all of your fuel lines except the injector lines, back off the CO adjustment, jump out the fuel pump, and see if fuel starts coming out of the ports.
Several ports immediately started having fuel Weeping so I back off on the CO screw. Still weeping, did a full turn CCW. One port still weeping slowly. One port never even had fuel come up in it.
Now I am wondering if this F.D. even got rebuilt correctly or tested.. .and did the pressure get set.
I was so frustrated that I ended up yelling at Tam and dropping the f-bomb when she kept asking me a bunch of questions about what was happening.
We decided to try starting the car just so we could at least drive it back to where we keep it parked.
It was smoking like crazy and the engine sounded weird. I backed off the CO adjustment, I backed it off more.
I yelled "Shut it off shut it off!"
Tam said "What is wrong with it?"
I lost it. I reached my tipping point.
After a while I calmed down. We figured that maybe it was just burning fuel that leaked into the mixture assembly when we removed the old F.D. so we started again and I gave it some throttle. It was really smoking but then it stopped smoking and died. It didn't want to start or stay running. Tam took my hand and said "God help us to get this thing to run right"
I turned the CO back CW figuring maybe it was smoking from fuel that spilled, i had backed it way off so maybe it was too lean now.
The car fired, seemed to run fine, and wasn't smoking anymore.
Okay so maybe a breakthrough.
We quit while we were ahead.

I still have my issues and doubts with this F.D. so I will be reaching out to DMCH tomorrow.

I don't lnow if it is this disease or what but I am feeling really insecure about my abilities to set up, test, calibrate this K-Jet system so I may end up having to pay someone to commission it to give me some piece of mind.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260312/0ffe623509a612310d3fb72e73b462cc.jpg

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[Helirich]

Good work. Sometimes the car needs some vocal coaxing.

I really need to look into my roof box. It?s not a problem now, but I guess I should nip it in the bud. How did you like that cavity wax. I?ve never used it.

[SupercoolBill]

Good work. Sometimes the car needs some vocal coaxing.

I really need to look into my roof box. It?s not a problem now, but I guess I should nip it in the bud. How did you like that cavity wax. I?ve never used it.Vocal coaxing, haha I like that.
The 3M cavity wax is a great product with the long spray nozzle kit they sell. I have used it on my Tacoma and other vehicles for rust proofing.
I think I heard somewhere that it is used inside the panels of VWs.

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[SupercoolBill]

I emailed DMCH a long descriptive email this morning followed up by a short text to James E.
I received this email at the end of the day.

Hello Bill,

Thank you for the detailed writeup and photos - we immediately went back to our records to follow the paper trail, as all fuel injection components that are sent in to us for rebuilding are tracked from start to finish and we ended up discovering that your unit and another customer's unit were shipped out on the same day at the same time, and they got sent to the opposite recipient they were intended to ship to. We have been rebuilding fuel injection components for almost a decade, and this is the first time that has ever occurred, so we are reviewing our methods to ensure it is also the last time. We would never intentionally send back anything to a customer that was not what they shipped to us. So first, and most importantly, we will be providing a shipping label to have you send that fuel distributor back to us. We have also reached out to the person who was shipped your unit and they are being asked to send it back in as well. Because it appears both units have been put into service (we checked our records and found we provided some tech help to the recipient of your unit to get his car running after he received it), we will tear down both units again for inspection. The difference you are seeing in the quality of the unit you have now versus the unit you sent us is precisely why we always want the customer's supplied unit returned to them, so this must happen first to make things right.

In spite of the mix up, I can assure you that both units, as well as every unit that leaves us, were tested for proper pressure, injector balance, and flow at three different metering plate depressions to simulate idle, low load, and high load, respectively. They do not leave our building until all of these tests are passed.

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[SupercoolBill]

So...my opinion? Stuff happens. I appreciate how they are taking care of the situation and how they took the time to explain what happened and what they propose to do in such detail.
So we will be removing the F.D. currently on the car and sending it back to DMCH. Tam is not looking forward to the fuel mess.

In the same email DMCH sent this info which will be very helpful when installing the new F.D.-

For a first startup on a newly built fuel distributor, the first thing I would have anyone do after receiving a rebuilt unit from us is attach all lines including injectors. Then prime the system by installing an RPM relay bypass jumper and check for leaks. If no leaks are found, depress the air metering plate until each injector is flowing when the plate is depressed. It is perfectly normal for the injectors to come in at slightly different times on the first prime and this is not an indicator of a problem. Now adjust the CO until you are seeing approximately 1-2 drops from the injectors every second. This will typically be a bit rich once the engine is running, but not so much that black smoke is coming from the exhaust. While the injectors are out, observe the spray patterns of each to see that they are consistent. If not, a few firm whacks on the head of the hollow bolt with a wrench or small hammer can usually get them in line. Repeat this for all 6 injectors and you will usually get them all back online. If this does not work, they may require cleaning. Once you are satisfied with the injectors, install them, reinstall the RPM relay and start the engine.


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[Helirich]

While that is a weird situation, I don?t think the FD has a matching numbers kind of thing, like an engine. I would think a rebuild should be completely inspected and determined to be serviceable. If it is, I don?t know why you need to get yours back. I guess I?m cynical, but I?m suspicious.

[SupercoolBill]

While that is a weird situation, I don?t think the FD has a matching numbers kind of thing, like an engine. I would think a rebuild should be completely inspected and determined to be serviceable. If it is, I don?t know why you need to get yours back. I guess I?m cynical, but I?m suspicious.Yeah I don't think it is number matching either. They did have different color tags though so maybe certain years they were one color then another?
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https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260313/a5a87f1de0204ad9d1d1bd4266f881b6.jpg

I am kind of nitpicking I will admit because really the only difference was my Bosch tag was in slightly better shape. I guess the thing that set me off was when I discovered that I didn't get my own F.D. yet it explicitly says on their website that is how they do it. So after that in my mind I had lost trust. "How do I know that this thing has even been tested and the pressure set."

The same thing happens with the HVAC business we own. My guys can do work for a customer for years with no problem and the customer never questioning our work. But then one day they make a silly mistake and after that the customer may loose some trust with us and may start double checking our work or hire a different company.

Believe me,...it would be easier to just leave this one on the car rather than remove it, spill gas everywhere, mail it out, wait for mine to show up, install mine with new copper washers, test and set it up.
But I would just like to have mine back.

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[Bitsyncmaster]

Your photos show and "033" and an "109". Different part numbers.

[SupercoolBill]

Your photos show and "033" and an "109". Different part numbers.Yeah I know. That is what I am saying. I am assuming they changed the model part way way through production??

I think what he was saying is numbers matching like the serial number on the FD corresponds to the serial number on the engine or the VIN.

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[Bitsyncmaster]

Yeah I know. That is what I am saying. I am assuming they changed the model part way way through production??

I think what he was saying is numbers matching like the serial number on the FD corresponds to the serial number on the engine or the VIN.

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They did not change the fuel distributor. Many numbers work fine. Mine is an "076". Don't know what differences are which made a different part number. Mine was changed when I bought the car. I think the original is the "109".

[SupercoolBill]

They did not change the fuel distributor. Many numbers work fine. Mine is an "076". Don't know what differences are which made a different part number. Mine was changed when I bought the car. I think the original is the "109".Interesting

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[Bitsyncmaster]

Interesting

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DeLorean Go has this comment on their FD rebuild service.

"The Bosch part number must be 0 438 100 109 or 0 438 100 076"

The "076" did come with adjustable flow on each port in early production. Later they removed that option but still label it the same part number. Mine does have the adjustments.

[Helirich]

I don?t blame you. It would be different if you would get the new FD right away, but you had to wait for yours to be rebuilt and then don?t even get it back.

[SupercoolBill]

Yesterday I removed the rebuilt F.D. that I am returning.
Before removal I wanted to start the car one more time because it did seem to be running pretty well the other day after we burned off the excess fuel in the mixture chamber.

https://youtube.com/shorts/b7dVGSWyMwA?si=biC0d7hRyNKeM2Gn

Kind of a shame to remove it and go through this all over again but I want my own F.D. on the car.

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[SupercoolBill]

This time I wised up a bit. Started the car, pulled the RPM relay. I let the engine run until it stalled. Let it set 20 seconds then started it a couple more times.

Of course fuel still spewed out when I removed the lines but not as bad as it would have been.....I think.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260316/8c3b03a2dfffa9f1deab82bb586aee07.jpg
After I got it out I removed the piston, tipped the F.D. all different directions to try to get the fuel out of it. Then I also blew it out with compressed air.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260316/7e28e5f4740ba633e35de4491e78526e.jpg
All packed up ready to ship out.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260316/889d8a72664fa0e512b21003d3b20229.jpg

I am a bit apprehensive about sending in this F.D. without knowing if the other owner has mailed mine back to DMCH or not. I sent an email to DMCH asking if they have received my F.D. yet.
I will have to decide if I send this one back regardless of a return email saying they haven't received mine yet,...or no return email at all.
I may just call them.

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[Bitsyncmaster]

FYI: You can release rest pressure by jumping the double yellow/red wire to the brown wire on the RPM relay socket. Takes about one minuet but you will hear the FV change "tune" when rest pressure is gone.

[SupercoolBill]

FYI: You can release rest pressure by jumping the double yellow/red wire to the brown wire on the RPM relay socket. Takes about one minuet but you will hear the FV change "tune" when rest pressure is gone.Interesting. That's a good tidbit of information.
So what exactly is happening when you do this that causes the pressure to drop? Where is the fuel going?

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[Bitsyncmaster]

Interesting. That's a good tidbit of information.
So what exactly is happening when you do this that causes the pressure to drop? Where is the fuel going?

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It runs the FV which releases the fuel back into the tank return line.

[SupercoolBill]

It runs the FV which releases the fuel back into the tank return line.Okay cool. That makes sense.

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[SupercoolBill]

I am expecting the same issue with high idling to happen after I install the rebuilt F.D.
Does this AI info seem legit? Is this the best way to test the idle speed control valve?
Can I remove the ISCV and hook voltage to it and watch it move open and closed?https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260316/1a3a1be466ac41c4a3d64be04714c47a.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260316/2cd933bdead9ca5d3a9e07b51edffcdb.jpg

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[SupercoolBill]

I don't really believe the whole vacuum leak theory. If it had an vacuum leak wouldn't it idle high right from the getgo not after it's been running for a while and it is revved up a couple times?

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[Bitsyncmaster]

I don't really believe the whole vacuum leak theory. If it had an vacuum leak wouldn't it idle high right from the getgo not after it's been running for a while and it is revved up a couple times?

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A cold engine requires more throttle to idle. The thicker oil is mostly that cause. The idle system usually runs almost closed at the idle motor on a hot engine. So anything adding to the idle speed can make the idle go into non-controled RPM.

So a vacuum leak, curb idle open to wide, ignition advance at idle, and leaking deceleration valves all can cause idle to go above 775 RPM at idle.

I don't think unplugging the idle motor proves anything. It does not have a spring return to closed.

[SupercoolBill]

A cold engine requires more throttle to idle. The thicker oil is mostly that cause. The idle system usually runs almost closed at the idle motor on a hot engine. So anything adding to the idle speed can make the idle go into non-controled RPM.

So a vacuum leak, curb idle open to wide, ignition advance at idle, and leaking deceleration valves all can cause idle to go above 775 RPM at idle.

I don't think unplugging the idle motor proves anything. It does not have a spring return to closed.What if i remove the hose on idle control and put a rubber plug in it? Would that tell me if the idle control is the issue?

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[Bitsyncmaster]

What if i remove the hose on idle control and put a rubber plug in it? Would that tell me if the idle control is the issue?

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With the stock idle ECU the idle motor does not close all the way. But plugging the hose may point you in the right direction. My idle ECU will close it fully.

[SupercoolBill]

Worked on the car after work for three hours. Nothing too intense...Just trying to keep some momentum. We are still waiting to get our fuel distributor back.
Tam installed the previously missing plate.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260326/15f1f5979f59ab60605ba90da0fb57e7.jpg
Then painted the rivets black.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260326/0b9dc46a962208a7e446c00a2c17dc49.jpg
And installed the D-go lift struts.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260326/49b91dedc7dbe119fe7c2abfc9371c47.jpg

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[SupercoolBill]

I fixed some loose interior pieces with 3M double-stick tape.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260326/7a11b4901698a9610c2071b203898fc9.jpg
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https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260326/f3913744871707983782371234dffde6.jpg

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[SupercoolBill]

We checked the electrical terminals and plugged in all of the plug connectors in the roof box.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260326/834077a671273c2ef9dc5ba353c29a6d.jpg
It was tougher than I thought it would be stuffing all these wires and connectors in there.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260326/8c5554590aa0c8e682c348ac5132daa1.jpg


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[SupercoolBill]

Tam dry blasted the new stainless jack plates then primed and painted them.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260326/013b4a03cbe925f596a0a4506f8693cc.jpg
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I just had my guys install a 800 CFM exhaust fan up near the peak in the back of the shop. I cracked the garage door and kicked on the fan. It worked like a charm. I should have done this years ago.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260326/51c5591c451083024c42e14a3b2135a5.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260326/d58eedea7e45f6b4261c7ec43ce0d242.jpg

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[SupercoolBill]

The last thing we did before heading home-
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260326/755fbcd1097a16d093ef857d9b5cfdc8.jpg
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[SupercoolBill]

We worked on the car for a few hours today. The double stick tape didn't work as well as I had hoped it would so I removed it.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260328/b8b29c94a7e32e5b15ef57d290c84941.jpg
I walked to the hardware store and bought some velcro. I installed the velcro. That seemed like a much better option.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260328/0b87b7e72739f438e34fe37b96ccd93b.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260328/6f7ea8c96b9fdf9cd3d0c75f8b7bee8a.jpg

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[SupercoolBill]

While I was working on that I set Tam up with the Wolfshead wheel on a drill. She tried it out on our old fender.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260328/85ce390f7f4dc7b2c565dbe7da01c317.jpg
I looked over and she wasn't keeping the tool exactly straight the whole time. So I showed her. She did better but at each end of the motion she was slightly arching the motion so I videoed here from above and showed her. She didn't kill me...so that was good...and she did much better after that.[emoji16]

I checked the other trim pieces on the doors and found this piece barely holding on. I decided to take a different approach on this piece. I tried carefully peeling back the vinyl to get to the fir tree pins. Kind of a tedious process to do without messing up the foam or the vinyl but I managed to get all if the old pins out. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260328/c22808eb5f0c4cd8ead93708cfb9ad0f.jpg
I cut some black foam tape for the windshield trim pieces and installed them.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260328/3a500ff20e16954b84c72ba7b508a9be.jpg
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https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260328/bc471e59c1ef16a9ea06d8193905c78a.jpg

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[SupercoolBill]

We can't seem to get the graining to come out right. Instead of Delorean grain it looks more like an appliance grain. It is kind of choppy. It doesn't just have the straight defined lines.
I took video but I can't post video on here. I noticed that the Wolfshead has a wobble to it. I spent some time troubleshooting the issue and am quite sure that it is a manufacturing defect. The ring welded onto the main part isn't true.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260328/3140a0de2c631b5beca5a05dbab6220a.jpg

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[Helirich]

Do they give you instructions with the wheel? I got some scotch bite pads from one of the suppliers for touch ups, but I haven?t really done much. Are you supposed to go over with hand pads after the wheel?

[SupercoolBill]

Do they give you instructions with the wheel? I got some scotch bite pads from one of the suppliers for touch ups, but I haven?t really done much. Are you supposed to go over with hand pads after the wheel?No instructions I bought it second hand. I do know from online videos that you are supposed to go over it with a blending pad after.

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[SupercoolBill]

My rebuilt fuel distributor showed up finally so last night after work I installed it on the car.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260408/8f6c144b6277d0415def17cec0018803.jpg
It appears that DMCH puts their own number on the F.D.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260408/4ce865962c2e864f9fea25c9bf6a1b65.jpg
While setting up my graduated cylendars I noticed that we never tighted the ground bolt on the alternator. Oops...
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260408/bab693463b2f316a914da70a1328c765.jpg

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[SupercoolBill]

I got everything set up and did the set up, test procedure that DMCH sent me. "Adjust CO screw until all injectors are dripping roughly 2 drops per second." "Then pushed down the plate and observe spray patterns" I added to this measurement of the amount of fuel from each injector.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260408/c226223d4c2b666935f5782863a37d9f.jpg

Two injectors were not spraying right and one not closing off correctly. Instead of drip, drip...it was spraying a small pinpoint spray at an angle (picture taking a wizz after a wild night haha).
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260408/82e826689a05b6f08ef4637e6530b374.jpg
Switched injector locations and problems followed injectors.
Injectors were all new....four years ago.[emoji849]

Kept pushing fuel through system and one of them seemed to correct itself. I spent an hour looking through boxes and bags of parts and finally in the last place I checked I found the old injectors that came in the car four year ago (but 20+ years old). I tried one of them. While all other injectors were doing drip, drip, drip it was spraying a very find mist like a fog. So not closing off correctly. Also the spray pattern at open throttle was not good. It looked like water out of a shower head. Tried another one. Same thing. Tried two more...same thing. So I gave up on the old injectors.

I decided it didn't have anything to lose in trying to clean the "new" injector. So I put in a vise, tapped on it a couple times, sprayed cleaner in it then blew it through with air. Sprayed penitrating fluid in it. Blasted through it again. Kind of like a sneeze for an injector.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260408/af2f3d6347ef1d33a5a7872c4881aa78.jpg

I put it back on the car and it was much better. The more I passed gas through it the better it got.

Do these injectors sometimes "fix themselves" as you run the car, send new gas through them, etc? Or should I be replacing the injectors that were acting up? I would like to put this thing back together and move on to other things rather than buy another injector and wait for it to get here etc.

Is 62708 a good part number for the injectors? Looks like I can get one through Amazon and have it in two days.

The fuel coming out looks very yellow. Time flies...some of the gas in there is four years old now. So I need to get this car running and pass some new gas through the system or pump out the tank and put new non-eth. gas in the tank.
Ugh....time waits for no man!
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260408/a39c82edcf3d1bacf7f87d9b71df5c99.jpg

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[Rich]

Do these injectors sometimes "fix themselves" as you run the car, send new gas through them, etc? Or should I be replacing the injectors that were acting up? I would like to put this thing back together and move on to other things rather than buy another injector and wait for it to get here etc.

Is 62708 a good part number for the injectors? Looks like I can get one through Amazon and have it in two days.

Get new injectors.

Be sure they are really Bosch units by using a trusted seller. There are knock-off/fake Bosch injectors all over the place. Knock-off parts will be difficult to spot - the boxes fake suppliers use can be exact dupes of authentic boxes. Bosch has implemented a coded security labeling system but I'm not sure it is used on each injector box or just on their bulk-shipped boxes with many injectors per box. Ask your vendor about this.

Our trusted DMC-specific parts vendors can ship fast and have good injector prices.

[SupercoolBill]

Get new injectors.

Be sure they are really Bosch units by using a trusted seller. There are knock-off/fake Bosch injectors all over the place. Knock-off parts will be difficult to spot - the boxes fake suppliers use can be exact dupes of authentic boxes. Bosch has implemented a coded security labeling system but I'm not sure it is used on each injector box or just on their bulk-shipped boxes with many injectors per box. Ask your vendor about this.

Our trusted DMC-specific parts vendors can ship fast and have good injector prices.I just bought an injector off Amazon luckily it was from the Bosch Store on Amazon so it should be the real deal. 5 of them work perfectly fine so I should be okay just replacing the one. And even that one is doing pretty good now.

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https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260408/71f0b36c4f7f869f5095513c015b2f7b.jpg

[SupercoolBill]

Hey everyone I screwed up and accidentally posted my latest updates on Andy's (82DMC) thread.
I will be contacting an administrator to see if they can be moved to my thread. If not I will start over posting them here and hopefully can delete them from Andy's thread. Oops[emoji2957]
In the meantime the short version-
I recieved my F.D. back from DMCH, installed it, it works good, but I have been having issues with a couple of my injectors.

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[Rich]

I went back to your initial post about your project car's condition when you bought it so I could gauge the need for a set of new injectors.

Yes, new injectors are definitely called for based on the 2 decades your old ones sat after the car was parked.

From your test it looks like at least 2 of them fall outside the 5% flow volume test range. In any case this project calls for starting with an entirely fresh fuel system including new injectors.

PS, you and Tam are doing a great job.



I asked him a bunch of questions about the car and went to look at it. The car was in worse shape than I had pictured from his stories about it. It was very rusty. He had told me that it hadn't been driven "In like 8 years" (if I remember correctly) but as he started remembering and calling out dates we realized it has been sitting in storage, not started, for 21 years. Yikes!!! Game changer in my opinion

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[SupercoolBill]

Okay administrator Tamir fixed my screw up. So now I have some catching up on my progress to do.
The injector from Amazon was an authentic Bosch so that was a good deal at less than $60 shipped. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260416/27884d9da9e8bb802527cdd7c758407d.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260416/de383ab828af9cbdcd7c31f01e971508.jpg

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[SupercoolBill]

I replaced graduated cylendars with plastic bottles with a hole drilled in the cap. I swapped the worst injector with the new one. At first it was behaving terrible. Wheezing, chattering, and spraying a side stream when it should have been dripping. The other mediocre one was not spraying right either. The others were doing okay. But the more fuel I ran through it the better the two misbehaving ones got. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260416/b22cbdea3dcc77ec054cad9c384087c5.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260416/74ad8a5dbbbe9d857ac713e5e9d16f9e.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260416/2bb65e6643e959b9b8353895a2ddab77.jpg

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[SupercoolBill]

Here are the results of more flow tests. At this point I feel pretty confident that the injection system is good to go.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260416/25ab7b5816444046409400041a29921e.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260416/0d13ad08bd5f8c65e892daf0af293ae0.jpg
We ended up having to remove the idle air control valve in order to install the back (#4?) Injector. What a pain!
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260416/9099a2d164527e2d84573f4ee90e6135.jpg

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[SupercoolBill]

At this point after working on the injectors, talking to experienced mechanics who have thousands of hours into working on k-jet, I can honestly say that most injectors that aren't working right can be fixed if you want to take the time to fiddle with them. And I think that if you can get them working moderately well you can just run them and they will straighten out on their own.
Of course time is money and new injectors give you peace of mind so I get why people just swap them out.

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[SupercoolBill]

With everything back together we started and ran the car. The engine fired up and ran great immediately. I noticed all kinds of gas on the air mix assembly. It was coming from the newly rebuilt fuel distributor.
I was fuming mad. I figured out that the fuel pressure regulator was leaking. I tightened the Allen screw which had been marked with white paint. It wasn't tight at all. [emoji19]
We started the car again. Like I said it started great and idled fine. But.. after a while it did the same thing it has been. The idle kept climbing, exhaust headers started glowing red. We shut it down and called it a night.



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[Bitsyncmaster]

Have you looked at your deceleration springs on the throttle plates? Bad springs cause an air leak and could cause the idle to climb as engine warms up.

[SupercoolBill]

Another night I decided to work on the high idle issue.
I started by trying out my new smoke machine.
I capped off the intake with a 4" plumbing test cap.
I wedged the throttle disks open.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260416/d29e8581d6d2268e123309e24e631c3a.jpg
I removed a brass plug and installed a barbed hose fitting.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260416/7e1965b59bebf1d3e60714a8e967d33e.jpg
Smoke machine attached
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260416/d41f391a150dde2d2f9650220c95899f.jpg
I was surprised how tight everything was. The only place I saw smoke was on the W-pipe and eventually on the dipstick.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260416/3c7c039f9221f778e1cb443338b1bfc7.jpg

[SupercoolBill]

I struggled to understand the design of the connection of this W-pipe back when I installed it and I still do. People have tried explaining it to me but I just don't get it. I think it is a design flaw. The rubber o-rings are not enough to fill the void. Especially with the plastic rings stopping the two parts from pulling tightly together.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260416/6d7c66aaa266d05d030735800c4f81b3.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260416/2276d4d985f0258866f036f015caf6a5.jpg
This was also a good opportunity to check the throttle disks.

I ended up removing the plastic rings, painting the mating surface with anti-seize, and bolted it back together.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260416/0eab54b3a1dd799987c25e2ff37ae219.jpg

This is a good picture of my throttle spool assembly and where everything is set to.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260416/9fe43eeef885208949097aea9d896361.jpg

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[SupercoolBill]

I had no more vacuum leaks but still had the same high idle/lean running condition.

Andy (82DMC12) had told me how to test the idle control valve. I started by removing the valve, turning the key on, checking to see what the valve did. It did nothing. Shut the key off. It did nothing.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260416/19fa28ec3d15d2f18c02d18c512a9039.jpg
I hooked negative 12V to the center post and +12V to the other posts one at a time. It did nothing.
I had ordered a new idle control valve along with some other parts the other day so I figured I might as well dissect this one.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260416/b92c8f88c343c8483c3ac0bc89aa4158.jpg
The parts that are supposed to move were seized.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260416/b7bc7cefce03acc4e81ca2a4e828662a.jpg
I cleaned up the parts, polished the moving parts, lubed the shaft and bearing surfaces. I put it back together. The valve moved easily. I put power to the valve and it moved! But.. that was it. It would do anything else. The motor is toast. Oh well it was worth a try.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260416/6027d56462af2fdb32a76eef8bd29a75.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260416/34a8c08efb4a0208dc22179c365501cf.jpg

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[SupercoolBill]

Have you looked at your deceleration springs on the throttle plates? Bad springs cause an air leak and could cause the idle to climb as engine warms up.Yeah mine look good. After I assembled my throttle assembly I learned that these springs sometimes (often?) fail and new springs are available. If i had known I may have replaced them. Not a big deal. I will just check them every 5k miles or something.

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[Helirich]

I was surprised how tight everything was. The only place I saw smoke was on the W-pipe and eventually on the dipstick.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260416/3c7c039f9221f778e1cb443338b1bfc7.jpg

Interesting.

[SupercoolBill]

We just got back from Nashville. It was fun but ended up not really being our "Thing". We had a good time for the most part but we both agreed that for how much money we spent and what we went through to get there and back, we'd prefer to travel abroad. Our thing is to go to Latin America or the Caribbean in the dead of winter or Europe in the late summer, early fall. Well we can say we did it. And we did have some good times with our friends. Good people watching. [emoji1]
BTW I never saw a single Delorean while there but did see two Cybertrucks. They are such a polarizing vehicle. People either lover them or hate them. Tam hates them and goes on for ten minutes talking about how "stupid they are"
I think they are awesome...other than being electric haha.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260420/900fdd95a8fd5aba521a39b8217802bc.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260420/9e2e1f454c491120fab56273007042a9.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260420/36e98839e5753ebe310f0cebc2b1783b.jpg

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[SupercoolBill]

Back to the car. While we were gone the parts we ordered from DMCH showed up.
I must say that their packaging is over the top.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260420/b0482772a006bba32329181eb4c9bd97.jpg

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[Mark D]

Cybertrucks. They are such a polarizing vehicle. People either lover them or hate them. Tam hates them and goes on for ten minutes talking about how "stupid they are"
I think they are awesome...other than being electric haha.

I'll just leave this here :-)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L3oO510dyVI


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L3oO510dyVI

[glockworks21]

Yep! love them or hate them. I did however get a cool pic at cars and coffee awhile ago..

You get a new ISM yet??

[SupercoolBill]

At the end of the day yesterday I opened the latest box.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260421/546dd42f783d82340ad74fb627faeb97.jpg
Cool kidz cleaning kit [emoji41]
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260421/f4c24483de4bdb66fed2b505b907550b.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260421/98d7bf6c9e13d6202988232c802c747b.jpg

New idle control valve compared to the old one. It is significantly shorter.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260421/90df15995bfdf2757adb085e7013e648.jpg




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[SupercoolBill]

Before I installed the new valve I tested it per Andy L's instructions. Key in ON postion, valve drives fully then slowly goes the other way. Yup good to go. Note- The valve vibrates like a beard trimmer. I asked around and apparently this is normal operation.
I installed the new idle control valve.
I thought I would need a longer piece of rubber hose to connect the valve to the cold start valve tube but I forgot that the tube can swing forward and back so I worked with what was there. I had a heck of a time getting the valve holder ring at the correct angle for the screw hole to line up with the threads on the base plate. I am not sure why this didn't line up right.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260421/eb0ea79db56ac40f35fbcdda889edb13.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260421/3ceb95721950ab63ff8a00794d8b6e68.jpg
I turned the key and the engine fired right up and idled with a bit of up and down pattern. The real test would be what happens after the engine warms up. After ten minutes the car was still idling around 800 to 1100 RPM. No crazy high idle and no glowing exhaust headers. YAY!!!
I never heard the fans come on and the Fan Fail light was on, engine temp on the dash was pretty low and the pipe that the otter stat is in wasn't hot so not surprised the fans were not on. Maybe not fully warmed up yet or air in the system?

I decided to quit while I was ahead and shut it down after revving it up a couple times.

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[Rich]

Good progress there.

Normally the idle valve does buzz with ignition ON with engine either running or not. And the idle valve spool does normally behave as you describe it in the first 30-45 sec after it key is turned to ON position. This observation tells you the idle speed valve is connected to the Idle ECU, the valve isn't bound up and it's motor is works.

As far as your engine surging at 800-1100RPM test for vacuum leaks in the intake system or in any of the vacuum takeoffs from it. Again.

[SupercoolBill]

Here is a video of it being started and running after installing the new idle valve. I am sure I still have more tweaking to do.
https://youtu.be/Uyl8Ed_dJDM?si=dCckrmHNIVC7kpaX

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[Helirich]

Mine idles like that sometimes and sometimes it idles perfect. Warm up doesn?t seem to be the key. (Does it hot or cold)

It only seems to do it with the AC on. I need to hook up the high idle wire.

[ssdelorean]

Back to the car. While we were gone the parts we ordered from DMCH showed up.
I must say that their packaging is over the top.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260420/b0482772a006bba32329181eb4c9bd97.jpg

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I concur!
Just received rear finisher for under T-Panel. Packaging look just like yours only skinnier. Part was NOT arriving broken or bending under their watch!

[SupercoolBill]

Worked on the car today. Goal- Tune the engine and check running characteristics. Install rear facia.

I had typed up a procedure for testing everything with the engine.
I started in the start...cold start injector. I pulled the injector and set it in a bottle. Jumpered the RPM relay. No fuel came out. I thought, maybe I actually need to crank the engine over. I pulled the positive wire off the coil and cranked the engine over for 15 seconds or so. No fuel came out. I had heard before that you could swap the plug connector from the WUR and it would send constant 12V to the CSV to test the CSI. Still no fuel from the CSI. I checked the voltage to the CSI plug while cranking the engine and it was only in the millivolt range.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260425/d52cf91b9f58e96044ac7971f89e8b65.jpg

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[Bitsyncmaster]

CSV only gets 12 volts when starter is cranking. The CSV gets it ground through the thermal time switch. Of course you need fuel pressure also.

[SupercoolBill]

CSV only gets 12 volts when starter is cranking. The CSV gets it ground through the thermal time switch. Of course you need fuel pressure also.I cranked the car over with the RPM relay installed. No fuel came out.

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[Bitsyncmaster]

I cranked the car over with the RPM relay installed. No fuel came out.

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You need to test if the 12 volts is failing or the ground on the CSV. If you installed the new starter, did you connect the blue/yellow wire (now not connected through the starter) to the white/red wire on the starter?

[SupercoolBill]

You need to test if the 12 volts is failing or the ground on the CSV. If you installed the new starter, did you connect the blue/yellow wire (now not connected through the starter) to the white/red wire on the starter?I will have to check that. Everything is new. New starter, new starter wiring, new engine wiring.
I did the trick where you plug the WUR wire into the CSV. Still nothing came out.
Is the CSV just plain old 12VDC?
Could I just hook jumper wires from 12V to it with the car running to see if it sprays?

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[SupercoolBill]

Well, the engine always starts within 3 seconds when stone cold. So either the cold start system is working or, not really something we need functioning. Moving on for now.
Please continue to give advice though because I may come back to this later.

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[SupercoolBill]

Next we moved to verifying that the timing is correct. I had set the timing when we were having issues with the idle going too high so I wanted to check it. I unplugged the vacuum line from the distributor advance just to make sure the distributor was at baseline. I showed Tam how to use the timing gun so I could rotate the distributor. She couldn't see the timing mark on the crank pulley. We painted the notch to make it easier to see. She thought that maybe she was seeing it. I tried and I couldn't see it. We closed the garage door and shut the lights off. Long story somewhat shorter I eventually figured out that I had clipped onto #3 plug wire, not #1 or #6. Duh.....
With the timing light on the correct wire it was quick and easy to set the timing to around 16 degrees which was what I was told a stage 2 engine should be set for.

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[SupercoolBill]

Next we did a test out on the WUR (CPR). It wasn't as precise of a procedure as I thought it would be and the temperature and therefore control pressure was constantly changing. I was going to try to write down my observations at every 10 degrees of temp rise but that didn't happen. All we were able to determine is the WUR is working. Is it precisely matched to the chart in the manual...it seemed a bit off but like I said it was constantly changing and the engine seems to run good.
Shut the car off and tested holding pressure and bleed down over ten minutes. That was all fine. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260426/03d7be2fb1f8d18bc859aea7627b4d6a.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260426/fad7ff26a13734ab7de3a53f866fd9ce.jpg

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[Bitsyncmaster]

I will have to check that. Everything is new. New starter, new starter wiring, new engine wiring.
I did the trick where you plug the WUR wire into the CSV. Still nothing came out.
Is the CSV just plain old 12VDC?
Could I just hook jumper wires from 12V to it with the car running to see if it sprays?

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Yes, you can power it with 12 volts to test it.

My car only needs the CSV if it sits for a week or more. Maybe in real cold weather it would need it also.

WUR pressure changes very quickly. About one or two minuets to go from 20 PSI to the normal 50 PSI. You can slow it down by unplugging the heater connector on it. You can also measure precisely the control pressure at your ambient temp with just the RPM relay jumped for fuel pump power.

[SupercoolBill]

We methodically disconnected the pressure tester so as to not dump fuel everywhere. It worked because we captured quite a bit of fuel in a container.
I noticed a puddle under the front of the car. I looked under the hood and noticed the fuel lines were wet.
Fun....dug out my offset wrenches, bent the two lines away from each other for more space, climbed in the fronk and went to work. My worry was that I would discover all connections were tight but still leaking. Luckily the compression nut connection on the fuel return line felt like it never got fully tightened so I cranked it down as best I could and cleaned the area with paper towels.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260426/8e999f91f6b9e98bc2c71b4abeb73884.jpg

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[SupercoolBill]

Next we moved onto the procedure of testing the lambda system and setting CO. I had printed out Dave Swingle's process for doing this. Toby Peterson from DNW recommended this procedure.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260426/7b33250c6f6e71a2a02380bd6a9b1cbb.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260426/ff5fa9639770d379897b72fa1d747cff.jpg
Dave has you back-probe the connector for the frequency valve and do the tests.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260426/74c4a0a8a677f808a1e66ed70b03caa7.jpg
It said to use dwell for a 4 cylinder but Toby said to use Duty. We tried both and according to our readings taken while jumping out the RPM relay plug suggested that our system was messed up. Next test also indicated issues with the system. With the meter not even connected, we were getting a reading indicating issues with the system. So we decided to see if we could buy another meter that does dwell.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260426/ee6b1e93e07ef1db4058d135eae1d82c.jpg
Surprisingly the local Napa had one for $100 that did dwell and duty. Seemed like cheap quality but had lots of cool things it could do.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260426/2cb92abb081cc5b261ca35912a3add59.jpg
Even with the new meter we still got readings that meant our system was supposedly messed up.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260426/54d516efc82437d3aed31cc3d349c46b.jpg


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[SupercoolBill]

At this point we were pretty frustrated. We decided to switch gears and change to the more common CO test set up using dwell with the meter connected to ground and the orange wire that goes to the diagnostic plug. Our car no longer has the diagnostic plug or orange wire in the engine bay so we had to figure out which port in the church connector was the orange wire. Top left on the church connector for the Lambda stuff.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260426/d2c2f04bd5edf320f8020a0279d9218a.jpg
Started the engine and let it warm up. The readings on the meter made sense this time. After the engine and O2 sensor was good and warmed up we adjusted the CO screw to get the readings in the suggested range in the service manual. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260426/3b9adb753ffdd5c86210dda92b93645a.jpg
The engine seemed to be running pretty well. Although with the CO setting adjusted to the correct readings on the meter.
Unfortunately as we adjusted the CO screw to the correct meter reading the idle went up on the engine.
I put a combustion analyzer in the exhaust stream. Things were looking a lot better than they were the other day. CO level still higher than it should be.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260426/dbe1c9527a2b32b6f4771913835add0d.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260426/73cbfe1a4d9fbc86174f582ebd51a79a.jpg

I am not putting 100% trust in these readings since this is a meter for working on boilers not cars and I am just sticking the probe into the exhaust port on the muffler.

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[SupercoolBill]

Since it seems like the engine is good to go aside from some more tuning we decided to focus on getting the facias on so we can do a test drive soon.
Before putting them on I would like to get the regraining process figured out so that we can regrain the areas where the facias go before we install them and risk damaging them.

At the shop we just happenee to I have a piece of flat brushed stainless with some scratches on it.

Here is a before picture
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260429/19e4b6d93ccc9fe24eb666b0c600e027.jpg

Here is the area I regrained


https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260429/0d420654516a2fb07e2f6c39ed50d665.jpg

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[SupercoolBill]

It is hard to get a good picture so I shot this video-

https://youtube.com/shorts/xRXAACmwC20?si=U4G1hZdWbQGT9MrE

Viewing from the right side it looks pretty good to me. Looking from the left it looks a kind of "choppy" to me. It doesn't have that long straight line look that I would like to see.
This is the same issue we had when Tam tried tried on our old fender before.

The Wolfshead wheel does have a slight wobble to it. It appears that the ring didn't get welded on completely flat so when you put the arbor in and lock it down it is not 100% perpendicular to the wheel.

Here's a video-

https://youtube.com/shorts/8JPFPxVdN9w?si=S3BTSs282iTgupst

What do you guys think? Is this my issue? Is there an issue or does the regraining look fine?


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[Helirich]

I can see what you?re saying about the wobble in the tool, but I?m not sure that wouldnt be a good thing. As far as looking at the grain video, I really can?t see it good enough. I guessing you are the worst critic.

[Rich]

Thanks for the video links. You're right. The regraining on your test piece isn't fine. It's variable with curves in it. More curvy spots than straight grain areas.

I'm not an expert on the method. I've done nothing more than watch an expert regrain 3-4 cars more than 5 years ago. Others can chime in on your questions.

First, what matters most is keeping the axis of the tool, whether it's in good shape or not, perpendicular to the front-rear centerline of the car at all times and in all places while you work . That's down to solid hand-eye coordination which takes strength, practice and concentration. You can discover the importance of this by intentionally yawing the tool away from perpendicular in a known zone you can tape around and then looking at the result.

Second, it does look like your Wolfhead wheel isn't true. The lateral runout is plain to see on both the inner and outer hub. Looks like 2-3mm total runout at the perimeter of the hubs. That runout will be at least 2X larger at the diameter of the media against the stainless. Maybe it wasn't well made or maybe somebody dropped it while it was in the chuck.

Whether or not the "bent" wheel is any part of the problem I can't say for sure but for the cost of those tools they should be dead on from the supplier, not wobbly.

You have at least 2 ways to improve that situation. Replace the wheel with a better one or try to adjust what you have.

For adjusting it see if you can mount the tool in a vise so it will run in a fixed position and then hold a pencil or marking pen near either of the faces of the hubs then slowly moving it closer to the hub til it starts marking the high point. Then try to hammer or deform the hub into alignment. Iterate that process until runs true. Whether the runout is from a bent shaft or the hub itself you'll want to fix it if you can.

And if you can't then go find a good one.

[82DMC12]

The idle speed should not be going up, so that's got to be something like throttle linkage not adjusted correctly (too tight, if you can believe it), binding in the throttle, a vacuum leak that increases as the engine heats up, or possibly something up with the idle speed microswitch (not working electrically even if it is engaged), idle ECU, or thermistor. You might not be able to get exact CO % readings or a smooth idle if you have Stage 2 heads. It could come down to "does it drive well" and then check the plugs every few hundred miles to give you an idea of if things are "good enough". You're using a workshop manual designed for a stock engine whose headlining role was to reduce emissions. Now you have heads that increase power likely at the expense of emissions so you might not have the same experience tuning it up.

[SupercoolBill]

Thanks for the video links. You're right. The regraining on your test piece isn't fine. It's variable with curves in it. More curvy spots than straight grain areas.

I'm not an expert on the method. I've done nothing more than watch an expert regrain 3-4 cars more than 5 years ago. Others can chime in on your questions.

First, what matters most is keeping the axis of the tool, whether it's in good shape or not, perpendicular to the front-rear centerline of the car at all times and in all places while you work . That's down to solid hand-eye coordination which takes strength, practice and concentration. You can discover the importance of this by intentionally yawing the tool away from perpendicular in a known zone you can tape around and then looking at the result.

Second, it does look like your Wolfhead wheel isn't true. The lateral runout is plain to see on both the inner and outer hub. Looks like 2-3mm total runout at the perimeter of the hubs. That runout will be at least 2X larger at the diameter of the media against the stainless. Maybe it wasn't well made or maybe somebody dropped it while it was in the chuck.

Whether or not the "bent" wheel is any part of the problem I can't say for sure but for the cost of those tools they should be dead on from the supplier, not wobbly.

You have at least 2 ways to improve that situation. Replace the wheel with a better one or try to adjust what you have.

For adjusting it see if you can mount the tool in a vise so it will run in a fixed position and then hold a pencil or marking pen near either of the faces of the hubs then slowly moving it closer to the hub til it starts marking the high point. Then try to hammer or deform the hub into alignment. Iterate that process until runs true. Whether the runout is from a bent shaft or the hub itself you'll want to fix it if you can.

And if you can't then go find a good one.If you look closely in the video you can actually see a sharpie mark from where I did exactly this. The hard part is knowing how hard to hit the arbor shaft, how many times to hit it, and what direction exactly it needs to go. Direction isn't critical I suppose since the arbor can be clocked anywhere in the holder.

I think it is odd/interesting that the graining looks okay when looking from the right but not okay when looking from the left.

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[SupercoolBill]

Tam was spent after a long day so I was solo working on the car last night (4-9:30).
I wanted a break from working on the engine stuff so I worked on stuff that I need to do before installing the facias.
I started by trying to get a good set up on the air intake for the engine while I have access to the pontoon.
I had seen pictures online where people used the original elbow to go through the pontoon. So I spent half an hour looking for my old air intake parts. Found it, cleaned the part, and installed the elbow.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260501/eca61944b74b3b08ed8711a4a0ceead0.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260501/03d0c21e95fc5d8598ff6992d970153e.jpg

I find it odd the the fitting inside the pontoon is not centered in the whole. I double checked everything and it seems to be installed correctly so I guess that is just how it is. [emoji1745]
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260501/d8cf6ed37e6beb1169b4e645f03e899f.jpg


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[Timeless]

My pontoon intake contraption fits the same way. Annoying but I got the flex tube from the airbox to fit well enough.

[SupercoolBill]

My pontoon intake contraption fits the same way. Annoying but I got the flex tube from the airbox to fit well enough.I had the flex line directly onto the piece inside the pontoon but I didn't care for it.
So trying this.

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[SupercoolBill]

The flex line was way too long so I cut around 1' out of it. I installed the elbow and used a big black zip tie to secure it.
I tried using the factory bracket but the diameter is way too large.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260501/b30308304f1a6f6fee538047464d017b.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260501/022e112067d3d9ed6070e415ec955f35.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260501/b58b5db624136326b426c8713712ea31.jpg

I am not in love with this setup or the plastic intake/air filter assembly so eventually I may have my buddy make me a nice stainless steel intake and pipe.

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[SupercoolBill]

Next I worked on aiming the headlights so I wouldn't have to deal with trying to aim them through the facia.
Instructions I received-
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260501/68ba34dbb6aac894829c62ff90697b32.jpg
I parked the car 25' from the garage door and shut off the shop lights.
Each section of the door is 24" so I aimed the low beam headlights centered below the line between the two panels and the high beam at the line between the panels.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260501/2048dff98e16885a04196079e730e80e.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260501/0b7288947ecd3e32a60b7ba0b6ca7ece.jpg

Check that off the list. I can fine tune them as we drive the car.

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[SupercoolBill]

I decided to tackle the things that Tam would probably be bored and frustrated with, body door and panels alignment.
I am assuming that this all starts with the doors matching the tub properly. So I placed balls of putty in several locations on the door gasket areas. I closed the door, opened it, and measured them.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260501/2e045905e4fd277baf921a97167ab8cb.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260501/9e410ba41a74efbdc6810542a6a97244.jpg

Here's my measurements-
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260501/c626fc121d683e34afa44eb532404ba2.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260501/d6fc456ed3f0273cd2305244c9878466.jpg

That looks pretty good to me so I am not going to mess with door shims, moving the door strikers, etc.




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[SupercoolBill]

I had to completely remove the plastic rocker to get to the panel screws. A pain in the butt but much easier with the plastic push pins that I installed.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260501/ee01614474468261134febd47f621008.jpg
I can't say enough about the usefulness of these internal pliers. They are made for piston rings but I use them for all kinds of stuff.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260501/dcee4690ff7756ee6a71347ea53759ad.jpg
I was able to get the rear panel matched to the door pretty well.
It took some work, drilling out holes larger, but I was able to get the front fender pretty good depth wise but not vertically. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260501/4db5540744b7a46be8235ea884f52e43.jpg


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[Helirich]

Nice work!

[SupercoolBill]

So this is the problem I am dealing with now and i don't really know how to fix it. When closed, The door sits noticeably lower than the rear quarter panel and the front left fender. The front fender being the worst.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260501/abcc88a75e0716afd2d77c6129dc65ed.jpg
I am remembering that when I installed the new fender the body lines lined up at first before I added shims to the top edge of the fender. But the top of the new fender was sloped rather than being flat on top to match the hood. So we ended up putting all of the original shims in to "force" some of the curve out of the top edge of the fender.
Here's pictures I found with the body lines lined up with the door but the top edge not matching the hood.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260501/1128f2dcf35fa207337b193aebf228ac.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260501/89d76ad02201972fdc85e3061bbd0a92.jpg

My theory is the the new DMCH fender has too much "roll" on the top edge. You can pry it up and shove a bunch of shims under there to fix the problem on top but in doing this the tension you are creating is going to make the rest of the fender try to lift up. Which is what I think is happening. I wish I could figure out a good way to just remove some of the bend out of that radius without potentially damaging the fender.
Sadly I may end up installing my original, slightly damaged fender for now.
I have emailed tech support at DMCH. I will see what they say. It could just be something that i am doing wrong.


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[SupercoolBill]

After talking to several other owners and Delorean mechanics I think the issue or at least part of the issue is that our roof has sagged over time causing the doors to land too low when closed.
It sounds like my options are
A. Cheat the doors up when closed by moving the door latch pins up. This basically forces the doors up just a bit at that moment when the door closes.
B. Remove the windshield, jack up the roof, and install a new windshield.

So I messaged Toby P. at DNW to tell him I still need a quote to ship a windshield and how long till he can get one to me.
As much as we want to get this car back together and on the road, everything is pointing to us replacing the windshield now rather than later.
If the windshield isn't going to happen or not anytime soon I will probably try the latch pin trick.

Subject to change haha!

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[SupercoolBill]

Yesterday after work I spent several hours trying to successfully regrain stainless steel. The wheel seemed to be bouncing a lot. I thought this was because of the slight wobble of the wheel but I when I switched to my 18v cordless drill and adjusted the sandpaper it didn't seem to do it anymore. I was hopeful of good results. I worked on our old fender for a while thinking the graining is coming out good but then when I stopped and looked at it from different angles it didn't look right.
I fed out new sandpaper and cut it back. I tried different RPMs. I made sure to always hold the drill straight.

No matter what it just doesn't look right. I don't get it.

So I tried just hand sanding using 100 grit sandpaper going left to right as straight as I could. This was better but still didn't look like the original graining.

I may have to give up on this task. I am not sure why I can't figure this out. It is frustrating. The lines are not straight and there is a choppy pattern when you look at it from the side.

In case someone asks, yes I tried using a blending pad. It didn't help.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260502/7752ed31e27f79674bedd2eab9869cf3.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260502/6cb642a8a22572ff068faed1342d0968.jpg

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[SupercoolBill]

We worked on the car for four hours today. The goal was to get the rear Facia installed. We didn't quite make it that far though.
I dug out the rear closing plate and other various parts.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260503/39d153a9b768d9e8bef4e3a0de904b52.jpg
Tam installed the impact absorber while I installed new LED lights in the rear closing plate.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260503/972ee37f36f94e6d9db7297e6974aa4e.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260503/8f4bbfa36e038d83197f2dd4cdab86c6.jpg


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[SupercoolBill]

Brackets and squishy nut thingies installed (forgot the name). I am not sure why they have both. It seem redundant to me.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260503/270d7c57a5646a53e39e7e711cdcb9a0.jpg
Closing plate set in place.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260503/2bb8fbff5788b96b3dbc7569413a60cc.jpg
I found some nice black bolts with built in washers... not that anyone with actually ever know that they are black.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260503/f46b59117e858468d49e50cc07bf078e.jpg
I realized how dirty the inside of the rear facia was. Once again, nothing anyone will ever see but I could help but clean it up a bit.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260503/c8335fdf001b9306bcd98c2d5c8c1f14.jpg


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[SupercoolBill]

I dug out the wiring harness and realized we never finished restoring it.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260503/2d620021e67896262a38b9aa2cfd50cc.jpg
I installed new electrical connectors for the license plate lights and the new LED lights I installed.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260503/fc3c1b4f201de15b7c0d3edf396e6b4b.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260503/2a9f380fe32d5f4ac7ddd03085ae68a0.jpg
There were two brightness options for the LED lights. I wired them for the brighter output. I can always change it later if I decide to.
Testing the lights
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260503/1dae82ae8f60c0fd88fb2c3b615fcd81.jpg

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[SupercoolBill]

We installed the engine cover latch.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260503/7307e45bb5f9cee16469ec22d66bf6d2.jpg
Once again a good time to use these pliers. Worked slick to push this clip in place.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260503/a6b5eb799fdd1c40b124befef46b5579.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260503/ba82bfefcf8c731859b01b2a63857891.jpg
Cable installed on latch. It took me a while to find the clevis and pin. It was in a zip lock bag in a parts sorter.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260503/f301abf5044078ae453e668213cdf896.jpg
The dogs had been home alone for 4 hours so we called it a night.
I like the new lights.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260503/6b026e0b1a057c2c9e23d566a5699614.jpg

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[SupercoolBill]

Playing catch up on my progress entries. Worked on the car a total of 6 hours this week. It was a rough week for me symptom wise and a rough week for Tam and I due to our business being in a slump right now. It is stressful not having work on the books for your team. It always seems to work out though so we are having faith that our work schedule will continue to get filled. I may have to spend some money on marketing. Up until now we have spent next to nothing on it.
Anyways, I digress. Back to the Delorean project!


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[SupercoolBill]

We installed the engine cover and the replated engine hatch latch with new hardware.

There was a recent post on the FB group about latches not releasing and popping the cover up and why do our cars even have a latch that has to be released from inside the cabin? Why do we have them? Good point. Is someone going to steal parts off my engine? And why not have the louvered cover latch from inside instead? https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260509/02052cce04c2d77a46b124a7b68e54fc.jpg
As far as the cover not popping open for some owners, I think I may have figured that out. If the pop-arm is bent and/the loop on the engine cover doesn't land squarely on the arm, it can slip by the loop and jam against it rather than create upward pressure on it. Ours was doing this. So I removed the latch and bent the arm.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260509/c0d77c1e0d26ca2ad1bc259506c4fc70.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260509/127aa2a3fabf785797fc76022832f1e1.jpg
I also installed a stronger spring that I just happened to have in my spring bin at the shop. It was even stainless steel![emoji2]
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260509/d5d43a4a43b970e3140e7923e723ec01.jpg
It works slick now. Pull the t-handle in the car and "Pop!" The lid pops right up. I fine tuned the positioning of the engine cover, the latch, and the rubber bump-stops.

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[SupercoolBill]

We cleaned up the inside of the facia, replaced one of the new splay nuts because it didn't splay out but rather inward.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260509/c390228b2aba5b95760119bf53a7ec2b.jpg
We installed the rear facia. Easy typed than done.
It took us forever to figure out which way the reinforcement angle iron bar went in there.
I don't know what if anything that we did wrong but OMG what a nightmare trying to install the rear facia especially the last part to get the studs over the holes in the closing plate! We were death gripping the facia and pulling as hard as we could trying to get it to go. At one point I resorted to punching the facia to drive it that last 1/2" into place. Yikes!
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260509/50974429601bfdbba493f637a4113a35.jpg
We installed the new black screws we bought from DMCH. They didn't seem to be quite long enough but we kept pushing as hard as we could trying to get them to thread into the clip nuts. Some caught just enough to hold but others wouldn't. Frustrating.
We installed the tailpipes and called it a night.

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[SupercoolBill]

I stopped by a local hardware store that has every type of fastener you can think of. Sure enough they had the exact same black screws in various lengths.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260509/7c5d821186e3552ba028ef7515abc9a8.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260509/9941bd0c5328c2cb59b42593a07e64ea.jpg
After work I installed the slightly longer screws. Ahhh....perfect...[emoji108]
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260509/89e45992e4ca942c48663b8bf9d6f9f5.jpg

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[SupercoolBill]

These screws on the end are a tight fit to get in if the closing plate is already installed.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260509/005a6ce49cd32164523c62f7c58e9dc4.jpg

Next I tried to close the gap between the rear quarter panels and the rear facia. I thought for sure that if I tightened the angle brackets to the pontoons in the full forward position, when i tightened the bolts through the closing plate, it would pull the facia up tight against the rear quarters. That didn't really happen. It moved some but didn't suck up nice and tight. I loosened the nuts inside the the closing plate and body checked the facia as I tightened the nuts back down. Better....I will mess around with this some more In The Future!
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260509/7ed485df7cc2047fd0c12c1bef1ffddd.jpg
This is a picture showing how I wedged it out while tightening the bolt in the pontoon. Then I removed the wedges and tightened the through-bolts.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260509/94fc2529c5dded056d1b0e606d6444c0.jpg

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[SupercoolBill]

Thursday after work I installed the license plate lights, plate mount, taillights, etc.
What a lousy design on these license plate lights. The quality is like that of a McDonald's happy meal toy. Installing them is fun when your hands don't work right. Trying to hold the plate centered even though you can't actually see it, while trying to also line up the light housing, and get the screws to start straight into the plate.
Got it done. [emoji3581]
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260509/fcca1e55bcb88e30b02970194220fef6.jpg
I got out the taillights, cleaned them up, used Restore to Black on them, removed the bulb boards to clean and inspect.
Grady boards! Never noticed this before now. Cool. I am a sucker for the Dayron sequence light boards though so I will be changing to those at some point.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260509/395d6837ead7adac95d85946f6910636.jpg
Next I got out my D-Go license plate bezel screw kit. 12 black S.S. screws, 12 rubber washers, and 12 black washers. I put anti-seize on the screws. I plugged in the light boards and started installing screws.
The first screw just barely reached but worked. It was a struggle from here on out. Most of the screws wouldn't quite reach the splay nuts. I tried this and tried that. I ended up removing the rubber washers from most of the screws which made them long enough to get them started. Some screws had to be installed with no washers at all.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260509/f983da1dd2f9a8ff2b15c98cd0357885.jpg

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[Timeless]

If want some great license plate lights I can send you a set of the ones I use. Vastly superior to OE and same hole spacing to screw into retainer plates. I used foam tape to hold my stainless retainers to the fascia to assist when installing the screws.
7214472145
I also ditched the OE license plate bezel and went with DGo 3D printed unit that secures from inside the fascia. I love it.
P.S. I love the Drayon boards!

[SupercoolBill]

Finished product. [emoji41]
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260509/543e8de63d05e8c74aeefbb1abedff03.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260509/a2553a3be6d51ccb7dd03e5413c300a1.jpg
It's nice to be at this point of this looooong project.
License plate bezel screws barely reached as well. So I have a theory of why these screws were all too short for us. When I prepped the rear facia before the body shop I tried to reshape the facia where the splay nuts were located. Most owners have not done this so these areas of their rear facia are raised from the screws pulling on them for 45 years.

I turned on the lights to see the lights work. Nothing. Turn signals. Nothing. Reverse. Nothing.
That's fun. Rookie move. I should have tested the taillights before I installed them.[emoji854]


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[SupercoolBill]

If want some great license plate lights I can send you a set of the ones I use. Vastly superior to OE and same hole spacing to screw into retainer plates.
7214472145
I also ditched the OE license plate bezel and went with DGo 3D printed unit that secures from inside the fascia. I love it.
P.S. I love the Drayon boards!Yeah I would be interested in that.
Also BTW I can't see pictures that anyone posts but me. Not sure why. Only happens on the app not on my desktop.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260509/8bf124b3b55687a9ebef8794799e7ff0.jpg

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[SupercoolBill]

I brought the car outside to get some sun. I was reminded of just how badly pitted the windshield is.
I don't think I am going to be able to put off replacing the windshield.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260509/f2038ea53cbdf0744f0bcb965856b25a.jpg

Funny story. The car started running like crap, stalling, not wanting to start. I was like "Oh great more issues with the engine not running right" Then I remembered this happening before and it was just because there wasn't enough gas in the car. So I dumped a gallon of gas in. Car fired right up and ran fine. Lol

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[SupercoolBill]

I messaged Toby at DNW again and asked for an update on trying to get a windshield shipped. He has been really busy so not much has been done other than him acquiring a windshield box from a local Safelite location. He said the windshield is a "tight fit". Hmmm..

I also posted on my Facebook page looking for anyone traveling from Illinois or near there that could stop into DMW and pick up a windshield for us if we paid them. So far no volunteers.
Anyone got any brilliant ideas to get a un-crated windshield from DMW or DNW to Maine (or even New England) undamaged for less than $400+$650 for the windshield?

We looked into one or both of us going out there and getting it ourselves. We could use our CC points to fly out there, rent a SUV that the windshield would fit in, stay overnight, then drive back.
We just can't make the numbers work. It still ends up costing over $1000. And it is more driving through boring areas than either of us want to do.

Now, if we had a good reason to go to Illinois that would make it worth it but we really don't.

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[Helirich]

Can they not just ship with insurance?

[SupercoolBill]

Can they not just ship with insurance?DMW won't ship period. Yes if someone does ship one it will have insurance on it.

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[SupercoolBill]

I have so many different types of crimpers but still don't seem to have the ones I need sometimes. Nothing I have will work for the taillight plugs unless I modify this one.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260510/cae278c1d2ecc500d5a87420db8ed168.jpg
These won't work because it is 3 in 1. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260510/51a5e130b7b3a9fd632ca6845ddf257d.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260510/151ed08ee0d9f96e648ba6cb8cbad93c.jpg
I also run into this issue when trying to crimp insulated flag connectors.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260510/64b080c7881e2b83f35a9bfe5e5ec27d.jpg
I spent an hour trying to find a crimper that can do all the crimps I would ever need to do. I didn't have any luck. They may do a lot of crimps I need but not others.
So for now I just bought these.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260510/ed44e35ef89447ceaf5afa4b74d58fb4.jpg

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[Bitsyncmaster]

Some terminals I find crimp better using a smaller wire gauge location. If you have extra terminals you can try that. Most open barrel crimp dies are set for 600 volt insulation to get a perfect fit around the insulation. I like to use 300 volt wire insulation. It's more flexible and takes up less space.

[SupercoolBill]

It finally stopped raining and being cold here in Maine. I had a jam-packed weekend. I had two events that I have wanted to attend for years but I had scheduling conflicts or the weather was horrible so I had never participated.
The first one was a moped rally up up in Bar Harbor. We had perfect weather and it was an absolute blast. Cheap fun. The event was only $30 for camping, food, and the rides.
This was a group photo taken on top of Cadillac Mountain.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260520/aeb1926f617da189b9506c4479cf7201.jpg
Gas station stop
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260520/c9d27d64ea0b15b1e50d4a400460080b.jpg
My faithful steed, a 1970 Honda CT90 (the one on the left)
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260520/2b531719c95d67c94f97fd10d133c54d.jpg
I really wanted to stay until Sunday but I had an event 3 hours away Sunday morning. So I packed up and headed home.
Sunday was The Distinguished Gentleman's Ride to raise awareness for men's health. In particular prostate cancer. Good cause, good people, but VERY hot weaving through the cities of Portland and South Portland for 1.5 hours at a snails pace on a 56 year old motorcycle.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260520/46530520d7c1cbba24509e4824ea0e01.jpg
My faithful steed for this ride-
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260520/a7281c4d9c79c6e885571b1259eb9a5b.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260520/c8a38d43d1754e4ad3cfecebdd98b157.jpg

Okay back to the car!

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[SupercoolBill]

Before we worked on the car I decided to see what this AI stuff is all about. I asked it to make a picture of a bunch of my vehicles in one place.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260520/536a00cd0f5af40e9d3d7c981ba6de3c.jpg
Impressive.
Then it started talking to me about the picture I had it make.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260520/8b010260ac62f17c61d3a8327357e8b8.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260520/5eb19589a7c4b65b31c8479d87692085.jpg

I was a little freaked out but I was also totally hooked. I talked about working on the Delorean with my wife. It asked what we were doing next and gave really solid advice.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260520/f1ead6b1ef6eee11075c9dadf7e0d20a.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260520/70037173a7c76ea92f621030606ba10c.jpg

As we worked on the car AI kept giving advice and encouraging.

I don't know what to make of all of this. Anyone else use AI like this?
Huge time saver but also weird and has other implications.

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[SupercoolBill]

So we did actually work on the car.
Installed the support piece onto the and new grill mounts onto the front facia. Used aluminum rivets.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260520/a37c5295269dbfeb2abbde15fa4134d6.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260520/8fc1833cdd4e8e75119c3c0814dd2647.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260520/96ce09566af28a538c432fdfff1b4b16.jpg
We removed the hood and installed the facia onto the car.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260520/e4b61e5d123869fa13ff3ac1c9320f26.jpg

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[SupercoolBill]

Tam tried to get nuts onto the two studs on the facia left and right sides for over an hour before giving up.
Of course AI knew we would have this issue and offered tips but we decided to call it a night.

This AI stuff is weirding me out. It is so easy but like many "easy" things is it good?
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260520/2194684b2b4f20213ceb704e085225f6.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260520/b0af3c62b271fb84e799aae51af25a20.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260520/15756d0d941c280b24c6dd8c57c86434.jpg

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[ssdelorean]

I use it only when have to for work. I've seen too many movies to know where this is going. :-)
Also electricity and water bills going up from data centers. Jobs being lost to it. Etc.
And then there is this theory.... AntichrIst

I'm in the "get off my lawn" and "leave me alone" crowd when it comes to AI.

[Timeless]

I use it only when have to for work. I've seen too many movies to know where this is going. :-)
Also electricity and water bills going up from data centers. Jobs being lost to it. Etc.
And then there is this theory.... AntichrIst

I'm in the "get off my lawn" and "leave me alone" crowd when it comes to AI.
x2

[SupercoolBill]

I use it only when have to for work. I've seen too many movies to know where this is going. :-)
Also electricity and water bills going up from data centers. Jobs being lost to it. Etc.
And then there is this theory.... AntichrIst

I'm in the "get off my lawn" and "leave me alone" crowd when it comes to AI.Oh believe me...you just described me. That's why I have never even tried it until yesterday. It is tempting though. It is like a personal assistant at your side that knows everything about everything.

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[SupercoolBill]

We worked on the car a few hours tonight.
We did some things in the wrong order and had to take it back apart which was frustrating.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260521/b39b312527d77f2caecc3126a6448282.jpg
I compared the thickness of the shims I removed to the thickness of some stainless steel fender washers that I had. It was a royal pain trying to sneak in the washers in after the facia was on the car.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260521/3dbcd4d50042dc849c9fb22ea6bb8e06.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260521/370eafeee465b9df900fca066e927f13.jpg

I apologize for not taking more pictures. Every nut and bolt was a pain to get lined up and in there.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260521/0fdc29a1213b16f2effab2b5cfc28088.jpg
Finally starting to come together.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260521/f7dcba8c67bd41fe148a60ca25948d14.jpg


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[SupercoolBill]

Yesterday was a rainy day. Before we installed the grill I wanted to try to make it look better. I sanded it, wet sanded it, washed it, polished it, then applied Back to Black plastic restorer and protector.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260525/e0c87200ec471b42fe4049a9dfa42216.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260525/dfbe520a3773bbd6b9e318b9c4816f3f.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260525/7315db5e15c337029631abd66c2aa44f.jpg
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https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260525/b315d2d25bab3cdcf2ae183d13c34c10.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260525/dd049f20f38a43c7cc63168ab18f7514.jpg

I will be honest, I don't think it looks much different than it did before. One thing I have never been good at is polishing parts and detailing cars.

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[SupercoolBill]

A couple things I noticed.
Some of the posts have washers but others do not. Was this done on purpose at the factory?
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260525/3e036709b2050e74587d50e430282fbf.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260525/e8be58ed4c0f8f1dc766842d6ef757e1.jpg

Why do you think this post looks like this? Corrosion? Wear from vibration?
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260525/4314aed41371fcb0146a740aac07a574.jpg

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[SupercoolBill]

Anyone know why I can't anyone's posted pictures?
I can't even see my own pictures from years past.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260526/c09b7e9ebd814d84c676213cb40726b8.jpg

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[Helirich]

I can see your pics from the first page. I?m no puter guy. I piss off because I have to log in every time on every site. This just started a week ago. Can?t figure it out.

[82DMC12]

What happens is the studs get rusty inside the grill and for some reason it expands, warping the stud area and sometimes it bends the "fins" that you see from the outside. Not uncommon to see a DeLorean with the two bottom corners looking like someone squeezed the corners with a pliers to pull the grill off. It's because the grill is warped inside. There's no fixing it.

[SupercoolBill]

One thing that has been bugging me and stressing me out over the past three years is that I don't have a garage at home to park the Delorean in when we get it done. Currently (as well as the past five years) we have been storing it and working at it at the shop that is our HVAC businesses shop. I am sick of it being in the way and constantly in risk of it accidentally getting damaged.
When we had our house built 24 years ago the plan was to eventually build an attached garage with a mudroom. Well it was never "The right time". I did build a small 1 car garage under the house but that's it. My wife has a Mazda Miata that lives in the little garage under the house along with a toolbox and some other stuff.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260606/2d46257edb2a3f23e5a371847779eb78.jpg
We needed something to put lawn mowers, chainsaws, bicycles, and motorcycles in so we bought two 20' shipping containers, back when they were only like $2500.00.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260606/33563f5be40f6dd486ec0d8ca75be0e3.jpg
Knowing that the Delorean needed to be out of the shop, with my Parkinsons diagnosis, etc. We would need/want a attached garage at some point.
So we took the plunge, plans drawn up, got estimates done, etc.
It is going to be a 30'x30' garage attached to the house with a 10'x14' mudroom. There will be a 30'X12' car port off the side. That will be for my tractor, my attachments, etc.



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[SupercoolBill]

Here's the plan-
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260606/e8c02d75e9450652f366effc5920093c.jpg

Work started last week. This is exciting but also scary because there is so much that can go wrong on a project like this, it is a ridiculous amount of money, work has been slow at our business sine this winter, and we don't know what 6 months from now will look like financially. But we are going for it trusting the good Lord that it will all work out. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260606/4b4fa97b7606e69a1e6e5a66a9d3a0ff.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260606/6ed9001d15310f9096f75e6b82c8c09d.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260606/ca1c56ea6f34ff9ae3b991a1a594e795.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260606/28488097dad53b7ef67c26dffe7653ff.jpg

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[SupercoolBill]

Inspired by the garage from Ferris Bueller's Day Off I am considering installing a large picture window in the back wall of the garage. Thoughts?
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260606/756be40bb491278d8c7585befb99c5b4.jpg

This picture gives you perspective of the drop off. I live on top of a hill.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260606/2af4b3d7a1e0e9d43d011a911cec5c9a.jpg

There are pros and cons to installing a big window there.

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[JETS 81 DMC]

Congrats I am sure you will be very happy when done. Looks very nice. :popcorn::)


What will be the ceiling height in the garage? Consideration for a lift?

[SupercoolBill]

Congrats I am sure you will be very happy when done. Looks very nice. :popcorn::)


What will be the ceiling height in the garage? Consideration for a lift?I can't remember the ceiling height. No plans for a lift at this time. All of my tools and equipment are out at the big shop. The plan is for this just to be for parking in and ever day life stuff. No projects. I will have minimal tools for simple stuff. Probably also stuff for cleaning vehicles.

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[SupercoolBill]

Concrete for the wall got poured today.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260608/8b2c4f8eef49ff806ae66f9e237eff64.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260608/3bb597a9c00ec9483fdcd27b7a82cd46.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260608/1fe9df861aa2c4e860e62d3a3f431a63.jpg

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[Helirich]

Cool!

[GS450-Junkie]

The flex line was way too long so I cut around 1' out of it. I installed the elbow and used a big black zip tie to secure it.
I tried using the factory bracket but the diameter is way too large.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260501/b30308304f1a6f6fee538047464d017b.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260501/022e112067d3d9ed6070e415ec955f35.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260501/b58b5db624136326b426c8713712ea31.jpg

I am not in love with this setup or the plastic intake/air filter assembly so eventually I may have my buddy make me a nice stainless steel intake and pipe.

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Ryan Foster sells a nice stainless steel ring that mounts in the pontoon, then the hose slips in and stays via friction. I have one, highly recommended. :p

[DMC-Ron]

Ryan Foster sells a nice stainless steel ring that mounts in the pontoon, then the hose slips in and stays via friction. I have one, highly recommended. :p

I'm not familiar with Ryan Foster. Would you have a Link?
Thanks, Ron

[GS450-Junkie]

I'm not familiar with Ryan Foster. Would you have a Link?
Thanks, Ron

He's only on Facebook, no website.

[Mark D]

I deleted the plastic elbow and the end of the flex duct friction fits perfectly in the hole in the pontoon. I also cut off about 3-4" of the flex duct to make it shorter. The ends are threaded on to the spiral wound duct so you can remove the end, trim and reinstall the end.

This was the amount I cut off:

https://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=19804&d=1371067712

[SupercoolBill]

I deleted the plastic elbow and the end of the flex duct friction fits perfectly in the hole in the pontoon. I also cut off about 3-4" of the flex duct to make it shorter. The ends are threaded on to the spiral wound duct so you can remove the end, trim and reinstall the end.

This was the amount I cut off:

https://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=19804&d=1371067712Yeah I ended up shortening mine quite a bit as well.

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[SupercoolBill]

The windshield from DMCH showed up finally. Once again they get the award for best packaging of any Delorean vendor.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260625/6f3006d64e0147f05a878a93010420b8.jpg

Checked to make sure there was no damage.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260625/d372edc8ccdc595cd4dbb37eee20dd47.jpg

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[SupercoolBill]

Kind of interesting thing that happened. The delivery driver fit the profile of someone that would thing Deloreans are cool.
So I asked him if he knew what it was. He said "I dunno, says glass"
I said "Yeah but glass for what?"
He didn't say anything. I said "It is a Delorean windshield." No reaction, I realized I had mumbled and spoke quietly (P.D. problems).
I said it again more clearly and loudly. He grinned and said "Really? That's cool man!"
"You know what is crazy, I just delivered a rear Delorean window to someone in Norway (town near me) last week"
[emoji2955][emoji54] WTF? Yet another Delorean owner near me in Maine???
Someone been trying to adjust their torsion bars perhaps?


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[SupercoolBill]

The garage is coming along. I am having to do a lot more than I thought I would need to on this project so far. It is quite exhausting and sometimes stressful but will be worth it in the end.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260625/835fe79f773ae21087e693c6ef62b6c4.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260625/e5cd966891d61dbd2a12efd39ccd731a.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260625/a2103e73d95d22aef196c32fb2bf8541.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260625/c72fc6ac8981ab001cc4206973e2f345.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260625/b244696c45f9e714f6750b88be12071b.jpg

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[SupercoolBill]

I borrowed a bucket truck to cut back some trees so I took a birds eye view picture.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260627/f344941a048b1a53604cf79025cf1a3b.jpg

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[SupercoolBill]

Hey everyone just posting to say hi and let you know we still have the car and still plan on finishing it at some point.
I will be honest, I have really lost interest in the car at this point. Maybe it is my ADHD, maybe I got burned out on time and money spent, maybe after getting diagnosed with Parkinsons I look at life differently and toys don't really matter to me as much anymore.
Maybe it is just because I can no longer handle multiple tasks at once so it is easier to just focus on the garage project and running our HVAC business right now. Maybe it is because I am so worried (and kind of obsessed) about where things are going with this race to artificial superintelligence.

The plan is to get the addition/garage done, get the car done to a point where we only need basic tools to work on it, bring it home to the new garage and finish it there.

I will post more on the addition. It is going to be really awesome.

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[DMC-Ron]

Bill,
I was so pleased to see this post from you. I was concerned. I've been a long time reader following your journey. I mostly log on here just to see your posts and enjoy your progress with the car. You're pretty close. I hope you do get it finished and are able to drive the car, enjoy the accolades, and see the happiness people display when they see a DeLorean. After all your effort, you deserve it.
Ron

[SupercoolBill]

Bill,
I was so pleased to see this post from you. I was concerned. I've been a long time reader following your journey. I mostly log on here just to see your posts and enjoy your progress with the car. You're pretty close. I hope you do get it finished and are able to drive the car, enjoy the accolades, and see the happiness people display when they see a DeLorean. After all your effort, you deserve it.
RonThanks Ron I appreciate the concern. I am doing good for the most part and keeping the Parkinsons at bay so far. In fact I recently completed a 25 mile hike fundraiser for Make A Wish Maine. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20261002/40305bfc620dff4a4539de0e9895c7ee.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20261002/1ce1e65ba913a6cce4e6accebc5c46ca.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20261002/bf1d9cf37dd8da5f273c9bed41ae03c2.jpg

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[mike123]

I find my DeLorean to be a source of comfort in our AI future. I don't think they had a single line of code in them when they left the factory. AI can help tell me how to fix things on it, but at least for the near future I'm still needed to turn the wrench.

[Bitsyncmaster]

I find my DeLorean to be a source of comfort in our AI future. I don't think they had a single line of code in them when they left the factory. AI can help tell me how to fix things on it, but at least for the near future I'm still needed to turn the wrench.

Your correct. No microprocessors unless the radio had one. Now I have many but it's all assembly coded. No high level language.

[SupercoolBill]

Hey everyone here are some garage progress photos.
Front-https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20261002/4bdaf68236a2a0a5f92d08cf30ff6daf.jpg
Mudroom entry area and garage man door from outside-
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20261002/ca8415c187dd5dcaa96131604a182e0c.jpg
Inside the garage-
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20261002/ae22ec6003f71155d65815a23a9b1fe6.jpg
Upstairs-
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20261002/dbba039b467befb6b95e0fbf9c4708a4.jpg
Second story deck
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20261002/10fa355c3e78c9d17c52dc158acdc675.jpg
Tractor port
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20261002/d1da5e2631731c766fd7800adabe4231.jpg
Back of garage
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20261002/fd7513c4d9a93c46637096f61b040ef2.jpg

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[DMC-Ron]

Bill,
The garage looks fantastic.
Ron

[SupercoolBill]

Bill,
The garage looks fantastic.
RonThanks Ron. It is a lot of money. Hard to spend that much on something that is not 100% required (more a want than a need) but we have been working hard for over 20 years, living within our means, to be able to do this without going into debt.

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[SupercoolBill]

Update photos. I love how this is coming out.
The house side of the garage.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20261024/894eb16b66b9240d5177fcf0384d27fa.jpg
New entrance through mudroom
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20261024/6e0c5f04ccdd64da65afb4f61e6d094a.jpg
Out back. Siding done. Deck done aside from railing
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20261024/798a492ea349c6431fd36d69512fff11.jpg

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[SupercoolBill]

We haven't brought the car out but I used AI to see what it would look like.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20261024/12c513659c54b5fa240fbe30d0d233b8.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20261024/4719e118bcff1807538cd310e26e5f50.jpg

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[DMC-Ron]

Looking great Bill!