DPI radiator remote bleed kit and DPI clutch slave remote bleed kit

[82DMC12]

Anyone out there with photos of the finished install?

I believe the clutch bleeder goes "somewhere near the starter / bellhousing" and the radiator bleeder probably goes where the passenger side horn is, replacing one of those screws?

[Patrick C]

Anyone out there with photos of the finished install?

I believe the clutch bleeder goes "somewhere near the starter / bellhousing" and the radiator bleeder probably goes where the passenger side horn is, replacing one of those screws?

I don't have photos, but the radiator bleeder is an in-line bleeder on a hose on the passenger side of the radiator. You cut the hose and install it. EDIT: Photo below from Toby's site:

https://www.delorean-parts.com/wp-content/uploads/RadiatorBleederInstalled.jpg

The clutch bleeder replaces the bleed screw on the clutch slave cylinder, which can be seen if you lay on top of your engine and look straight down where the transmission meets the engine.

EDIT: Borrowed photo here of the slave:
http://www.noroads.com/delorean/3281/content/20080504/IMG_0613.jpg

[Helirich]

The clutch bleeder replaces the bleed screw on the clutch slave cylinder, which can be seen if you lay on top of your engine and look straight down where the transmission meets the engine.

EDIT: Borrowed photo here of the slave:
http://www.noroads.com/delorean/3281/content/20080504/IMG_0613.jpg

That radiator thing is pretty self explanatory. So what does the remote bleeder consist of? Is it a hard or soft extension on that bleeder?

[82DMC12]

Thanks guys. Actually, Josh responded last night with a couple of great photos. I installed the radiator bleeder today no problem. I disconnected the small hose from the top of the radiator and directed it into a gallon container, and then drained about 2 quarts from the passenger side pipe. Once it stopped, I removed the other end from the small pipe barb and installed the kit as you see in the photo. In my case, I had to drill out the hole in the triangle closing piece a couple sizes up to run the allen screw through. Once everything was tight, I topped up the expansion tank, then started the car with heater on full blast. Once the thermostat opened, I attached a piece of tubing to the bleed nipple (just like a brake bleeder) and directed it into my gallon container. I opened the nipple and once it blew clean coolant out without bubbles, I closed it again and monitored for leaks. No issues. Easy Sunday job.

Probably won't do the clutch until next spring as I'm quite busy at the moment with family in town, the holidays, and a newborn in the house.

67566

[Bitsyncmaster]

If that braided hose is touching the cooling pipe, I would put a piece of hose where it contacts to prevent it from wearing. I just use some standard hose which I slit and ty-wrap it on.

[82DMC12]

If that braided hose is touching the cooling pipe, I would put a piece of hose where it contacts to prevent it from wearing. I just use some standard hose which I slit and ty-wrap it on.

I'm probably going to do exactly that. It's a millimeter away and is simply a function of how the braided hose turns as you tighten it down.

[artisticent]

Thanks guys. Actually, Josh responded last night with a couple of great photos. I installed the radiator bleeder today no problem. I disconnected the small hose from the top of the radiator and directed it into a gallon container, and then drained about 2 quarts from the passenger side pipe. Once it stopped, I removed the other end from the small pipe barb and installed the kit as you see in the photo. In my case, I had to drill out the hole in the triangle closing piece a couple sizes up to run the allen screw through. Once everything was tight, I topped up the expansion tank, then started the car with heater on full blast. Once the thermostat opened, I attached a piece of tubing to the bleed nipple (just like a brake bleeder) and directed it into my gallon container. I opened the nipple and once it blew clean coolant out without bubbles, I closed it again and monitored for leaks. No issues. Easy Sunday job.

Probably won't do the clutch until next spring as I'm quite busy at the moment with family in town, the holidays, and a newborn in the house.

67566

Love this, Im in a similar boat in that I had my heater valve break in half as I was driving recently emptying my coolant from everywhere. So I replaced the heater valve and thermostat coz it looked old even though it seemed to be functioning. However now ill run the car and the thermo wont open and I know its coz i have a ton of air in the system. I have the T valve installed down by the front passenger side lower radiator hose. But not sure the best way to approach bleeding. I havent tried with the heat fully blasting, but even with the car hot ill open the bleed valve on the water pump and only steam comes out, no coolant. So something is up and thermo still not opening. Frustrated I cant drive the car.

[82DMC12]

Love this, Im in a similar boat in that I had my heater valve break in half as I was driving recently emptying my coolant from everywhere. So I replaced the heater valve and thermostat coz it looked old even though it seemed to be functioning. However now ill run the car and the thermo wont open and I know its coz i have a ton of air in the system. I have the T valve installed down by the front passenger side lower radiator hose. But not sure the best way to approach bleeding. I havent tried with the heat fully blasting, but even with the car hot ill open the bleed valve on the water pump and only steam comes out, no coolant. So something is up and thermo still not opening. Frustrated I cant drive the car.What you actually need then is a thermostat bleeder kit. See this photo. It's just a hose that connects the thermostat bleeder to the return on the header tank. It's constantly bleeding off and makes sure there isn't air at the thermostat.

The kit I referred to in the first post is helpful but had nothing to do with the thermostat opening or not. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20211212/f5a061e35d8d24f855dbff652e739bb1.jpg

Sent from my Pixel 3a using Tapatalk

[artisticent]

What you actually need then is a thermostat bleeder kit. See this photo. It's just a hose that connects the thermostat bleeder to the return on the header tank. It's constantly bleeding off and makes sure there isn't air at the thermostat.

The kit I referred to in the first post is helpful but had nothing to do with the thermostat opening or not. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20211212/f5a061e35d8d24f855dbff652e739bb1.jpg

Sent from my Pixel 3a using Tapatalk

I can do this but what does it mean that no matter how long I have the bleeder open, its only steam that comes out. I can see the purpose of the hose running back in to the tank for fluid but im seeing no fluid. Thats my main issue it seems

[artisticent]

I can do this but what does it mean that no matter how long I have the bleeder open, its only steam that comes out. I can see the purpose of the hose running back in to the tank for fluid but im seeing no fluid. Thats my main issue it seems

I also never had an issue with my cooling system prior to the dam heater valve breaking in half while driving....

[82DMC12]

I also never had an issue with my cooling system prior to the dam heater valve breaking in half while driving....

Sounds like you are actually quite low on coolant. Let the engine go stone cold and check the header tank, fill it up 2/3 of the way, then start the engine with the cap off. Turn on the heater to full blast. Eventually the thermostat should open and I bet the tank level will drop. Keep topping it up and keep it about 2/3 full. Try to bleed both the radiator upper nipple and the thermostat housing before putting the cap back on. Let the car cool overnight and check the tank again, top off if needed. Eventually it will all even out as long as your thermostat is actually opening (easy to tell by touching the radiator hose that goes into the otterstat pipe).

[artisticent]

Sounds like you are actually quite low on coolant. Let the engine go stone cold and check the header tank, fill it up 2/3 of the way, then start the engine with the cap off. Turn on the heater to full blast. Eventually the thermostat should open and I bet the tank level will drop. Keep topping it up and keep it about 2/3 full. Try to bleed both the radiator upper nipple and the thermostat housing before putting the cap back on. Let the car cool overnight and check the tank again, top off if needed. Eventually it will all even out as long as your thermostat is actually opening (easy to tell by touching the radiator hose that goes into the otterstat pipe).

Thank you Ill do exactly that. Going to Oreilly now to grab coolant. I hope my heat works. I only use my AC which blast cold being here in Cali. Ill check when im home. Excited to get my car right again. Its usually so reliable I could consider it a daily driver if I needed it to be.

[82DMC12]

Thank you Ill do exactly that. Going to Oreilly now to grab coolant. I hope my heat works. I only use my AC which blast cold being here in Cali. Ill check when im home. Excited to get my car right again. Its usually so reliable I could consider it a daily driver if I needed it to be.

Good luck, I use regular un-diluated green coolant and mix it 50/50 with distilled water from the grocery store. A lot cheaper to mix your own and no worse than the pre-mixed.

[artisticent]

Good luck, I use regular un-diluated green coolant and mix it 50/50 with distilled water from the grocery store. A lot cheaper to mix your own and no worse than the pre-mixed.

Our VIN #s are close if you consider that mine was originally 11xxx before they added 5000 to the vin for the 1983 models....