Get apart cooling system lines

[SupercoolBill]

Hey everyone. I am looking for advice on getting apart the AC lines up front in the car. I can barely get a wrench onto any of the fittings let alone turn them. I posted on the FB page and people said Crows Foot. I bought a metric and SAE set but they don't go up big enough to fit the larger size fittings so now it looks like I need to buy a 1/2" drive set for like $70 just to use once.
Just double checking that this is the only way to get these apart or if I am missing something before I order them.
Also does anyone have have pics of correct positioning of everything to get these cracked loose?
TIA6776167762

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[jangell]

I checked my notes (http://www.tmproductions.com/repairs-and-maintenance-blog/2018/1/27/converting-the-ac-from-r12-to-r134), and I used a 22mm crows foot to get it apart. After a lot of Kroil and PB Blaster. You'll also eventually need 27mm and 32mm wrenches in addition to the 22mm wrench. I believe I bought an individual crows foot on Amazon, although my notes for the others say Home Depot. There are some pictures at my link that show more or less what I did, but it's not exhaustive.

I'm probably doing some of this again before spring. My A/C is leaking down in 36 hours, and I can't find any leaks with the 4 cans of dye I've put it in since the leak started. Best guess is the evaporator, so it all gets to come out again... <sigh>

-- Joe

[Bitsyncmaster]

I had to use one wrench on top and the other under the car on the accumulator. Buy some cheap wrenches and bend and or grind them so they fit. The line at the condenser I had to cut a little of the shroud to fit the wrenches. Bend your wrench by heating it.

[SupercoolBill]

I had to use one wrench on top and the other under the car on the accumulator. Buy some cheap wrenches and bend and or grind them so they fit. The line at the condenser I had to cut a little of the shroud to fit the wrenches. Bend your wrench by heating it.Ok I'm not crazy then. That was my next step.

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[SupercoolBill]

I checked my notes (http://www.tmproductions.com/repairs-and-maintenance-blog/2018/1/27/converting-the-ac-from-r12-to-r134), and I used a 22mm crows foot to get it apart. After a lot of Kroil and PB Blaster. You'll also eventually need 27mm and 32mm wrenches in addition to the 22mm wrench. I believe I bought an individual crows foot on Amazon, although my notes for the others say Home Depot. There are some pictures at my link that show more or less what I did, but it's not exhaustive.

I'm probably doing some of this again before spring. My A/C is leaking down in 36 hours, and I can't find any leaks with the 4 cans of dye I've put it in since the leak started. Best guess is the evaporator, so it all gets to come out again...

-- JoeJoe thanks so much for your reply. I followed the link.. lots of great info there.

I have been soaking everything down with Kroil.
I have thought about just cutting the accumulator side of the fittings because a new one is only $28 and it probably would be a good idea to replace it anyways but then I don't know if cutting out the accumulator would help me any since the evaporator tube would still be in a tight spot. It seems like it would be a lot easier to get wrenches in there with the accumulator gone though.
Likewise,..if I am planning on replacing the rubber AC lines I suppose that I could just cut the flex line but once again I'm not sure that it would gain me anything.
We're the crows foots that you ordered 1/2" drive?

That sucks that you have a leak. I know how it is. I own a HVAC company and was a refrigeration and HVAC tech for 20 years. It sucks having a leak that you can't find or fix easily.


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[jangell]

Pretty sure the crows foot was 3/8". I don't see it in my Amazon orders, so I'm thinking I did wind up getting it locally, although I don't know if it was at Home Depot or somewhere else (it's been a couple of years now).

-- Joe

[iflights]

Got my wrenches for this project at Harbor Freight. Also, you should replace the accumulator if exposed to atmosphere.

[SupercoolBill]

Got my wrenches for this project at Harbor Freight. Also, you should replace the accumulator if exposed to atmosphere.Yeah I am assuming it has a coalescing core in it.
No luck at HF at least for crows foot that large.

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]67764

[SupercoolBill]

Well, I just spent 2 hours trying to find a metric, crows foot, flare, set in the large sizes. I can find nothing in North America. On Ebay they have them in UK but $150 + $50 shipping and a bit of a wait.
I can individually buy 22mm and 27mm in the JTC brand for around $16+$5 shipping each. But I can't find a individual 32mm.

NOW,...I CAN much easier find a NON-FLARE large crows foot set or individual crows foot in those sizes. I am worrying about using non-wrap around style though. Thoughts???
Anyone know anywhere in the US I can order a full large set (20mm to 32mm) for less than $120 delivered??

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[Bitsyncmaster]

My lines were not tight at all. The line at the condenser was even what I consider loose. So I used standard flat wrenches, not line wrenches.

[SupercoolBill]

My lines were not tight at all. The line at the condenser was even what I consider loose. So I used standard flat wrenches, not line wrenches.Ok
I have pushed as hard as I dare with regular wrenches on at an angle and they aren't budging. My car was driven in the winter salt though. I am surprised (well actually not surprised) that DMC didn't have a cover inside the fender to protect the AC components from what may come flying off the right front tire.
Well I think I will just go with the flat, non-flare type crows foots.
Are we sure they are metric and not SAE? I wonder if SAE sizes of flare type would work even if it is metric. I think the large wrench I was using were SAE and they fit pretty well. I may be able to find those (SAE flare type) in a large set, flare type easier than the metric. At least in the US anyways.

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[Bitsyncmaster]

Ok
I have pushed as hard as I dare with regular wrenches on at an angle and they aren't budging. My car was driven in the winter salt though. I am surprised (well actually not surprised) that DMC didn't have a cover inside the fender to protect the AC components from what may come flying off the right front tire.
Well I think I will just go with the flat, non-flare type crows foots.
Are we sure they are metric and not SAE? I wonder if SAE sizes of flare type would work even if it is metric. I think the large wrench I was using were SAE and they fit pretty well. I may be able to find those (SAE flare type) in a large set, flare type easier than the metric. At least in the US anyways.

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I used SAE sizes. Don't remember the size but guessing 1", 1 1/16", 1 1/8"

[SupercoolBill]

I used SAE sizes. Don't remember the size but guessing 1", 1 1/16", 1 1/8"Yeah I think you are right.
Some people use metric and some use standard. Personally I feel like when you get to these large sizes it doesn't really matter anymore if you are using metric or standard. It just may fit slightly more snug or slightly more loose. It's not a situation where you are going to round it out or anything because you used one or the other other.

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[SupercoolBill]

Well I decided to cut the lines for now. I can't find a kit that has the size of crows foots, feet?? That I need and this is holding up removing the body from the frame.
The accumulator and rubber lines are getting replaced anyways so I just cut them out.
Now I can more easily get at the connection on the evap to hopefully be able to get them apart. If not then I'll be replacing the evaporator also.67782677836778567787

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[Helirich]

I got an SAE wrench on the bay. I can’t remember what size, but after getting it I feel like crows foot is not the way to go. Hard to get the 1/2” extension in there. I think maybe a regular end wrench bent to suit. I still haven’t removed mine because my system seems to be holding Freon now.

Ha-ha, I just saw your last post. Good job. I’ve heard the evaporator is somewhat fragile.

[DMCMW Dave]

My lines were not tight at all. The line at the condenser was even what I consider loose. So I used standard flat wrenches, not line wrenches.

This issue is entirely a function of the car's history. "Clean" cars will come right apart. "Salt Belt" cars can be about impossible. There are some dissimilar metals involved that really cause a problem.

[SupercoolBill]

So what's the story with the "two piece AC line" vs "one piece AC line"
What's the pros and cons of the two?

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[jangell]

There's a 90 degree bend at the end of the lines. This wouldn't be a problem, except that you have to run the lines between the body and the frame. You can barely do this by jacking up the body so that it lifts ever so slightly from the frame (you don't have to actually separate them), and use a rubber mallet to tap the 90 degree hard bend of the line down the length frame. They didn't have to worry about that at the factory because they ran the the A/C lines before they put the body on.

The split lines have a connection half way down that makes it much easier to put them in (you run each half from opposite ends of the car and connect them in the middle), but that introduces an extra point that can leak, which is why not everyone likes to use them.

-- Joe

[SupercoolBill]

There's a 90 degree bend at the end of the lines. This wouldn't be a problem, except that you have to run the lines between the body and the frame. You can barely do this by jacking up the body so that it lifts ever so slightly from the frame (you don't have to actually separate them), and use a rubber mallet to tap the 90 degree hard bend of the line down the length frame. They didn't have to worry about that at the factory because they ran the the A/C lines before they put the body on.

The split lines have a connection half way down that makes it much easier to put them in (you run each half from opposite ends of the car and connect them in the middle), but that introduces an extra point that can leak, which is why not everyone likes to use them.

-- JoeSo are these split lines?67837

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[DMCMW Dave]

So are these split lines?67837

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No, that looks like a half-assed repair.

[SupercoolBill]

No, that looks like a half-assed repair.Ok
I wonder if a previous owner went to a shop that makes hydraulic hoses and tried to make their own 2-piece hose.

Just a thought but couldn't DMC just make a single length hose that has a straight flare end then put a 90 degree flare connector on the end of that? I mean you'd still have the challenge of pulling it through that tight spot but maybe it would be doable without the 90 on there.

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[painterdave72]

DPI has a very nice new style ac line kit .. you run the hoses then put the ends on afterwards.. i have had the whole kit on my car for a few years and it works great...

[SupercoolBill]

DPI has a very nice new style ac line kit .. you run the hoses then put the ends on afterwards.. i have had the whole kit on my car for a few years and it works great...Cool thanks for the heads up

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[82DMC12]

So are these split lines?67837

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LOL yeah they're split all right, but that's not how it was originally! Most likely the bolt that clamps the U-joint on the intermediate steering shaft wore a hole in the A/C line. Ask me how I know that's possible.