Removing the distributor

[82DMC12]

Hey guys,

I'm going to replace the o-ring on the distributor shaft since I believe mine is letting oil blow past and it's getting on my driver side head between the distributor and idle air motor. It's oily/grimy there and that's the most logical source. So, I'm already torn down to the bottom of the valley and want to pull the distributor out. I'm aware of the method to find TDC using the plug behind the water pump, but if I make the distributor where the rotor is pointing, and I mark the adjusting bracket where the nut is, is it OK to pull the distributor out, change the o ring, then drop it back in but rotated enough so that the rotor turns back into the marked place as it drops in? Is there anything that can go wrong doing this?

Also - I have a NOS impulse coil that I never installed. Should I replace it for the hell of it now?

Anything else I should lube or clean inside the distributor while I have it out?

I'm also going to clean the PCV "mesh" to make sure I'm not building pressure in the valve covers causing this little mess.

[David T]

The more likely thing is the crankcase is under pressure somehow. Your idea to mark the position and put it back is good but it assumes you can do it accurately and it is in the right place to begin with. You really should get a timing light to make sure the timing is correct. If you have a new coil I would put it in. Make sure the vacuum and mechanical advance is working and not seized up or leaking. Inspect the rotor and cap and if either one is questionable just replace them as a set. Be sure to get the gaps as exact as you can when you do the coil.

[82DMC12]

The more likely thing is the crankcase is under pressure somehow. Your idea to mark the position and put it back is good but it assumes you can do it accurately and it is in the right place to begin with. You really should get a timing light to make sure the timing is correct. If you have a new coil I would put it in. Make sure the vacuum and mechanical advance is working and not seized up or leaking. Inspect the rotor and cap and if either one is questionable just replace them as a set. Be sure to get the gaps as exact as you can when you do the coil.

OK, I can't check my timing right now because I'm torn down to the bottom of the valley, but my timing is at least close to correct based on engine performance. I do have a timing light and was planning on checking timing when all is said and done and I'm buttoned back up. I just don't want to have to take the distributor out AGAIN once I get the intake and fuel reinstalled.

I'm going to clean that oily metal mesh in the oil filler cap, never done that before. Is there anything else to check in regards to removing pressure from the crankcase? I have never done anything with the charcoal canister, is there anything I should look for there? Otherwise all vacuum lines are in good shape, car runs perfectly, no performance or starting issues, idles at 750 or so after the seeking stops when cold. It's a good runner.

[WHO1DMC]

OK, I can't check my timing right now because I'm torn down to the bottom of the valley, but my timing is at least close to correct based on engine performance. I do have a timing light and was planning on checking timing when all is said and done and I'm buttoned back up. I just don't want to have to take the distributor out AGAIN once I get the intake and fuel reinstalled.

I'm going to clean that oily metal mesh in the oil filler cap, never done that before. Is there anything else to check in regards to removing pressure from the crankcase? I have never done anything with the charcoal canister, is there anything I should look for there? Otherwise all vacuum lines are in good shape, car runs perfectly, no performance or starting issues, idles at 750 or so after the seeking stops when cold. It's a good runner.

The charcoal canister is somewhat serviceable. The bottom is popped off with a screwdriver so you can change a filter. The filter looks like fiberglass insulation. I did mine about 2 years ago the filter wasn't that bad but there was a little dirt up in there. Not sure if it was from a mud dauber or something.


Dave B.

[Dickey]

Hey guys,

I'm going to replace the o-ring on the distributor shaft since I believe mine is letting oil blow past and it's getting on my driver side head between the distributor and idle air motor. It's oily/grimy there and that's the most logical source. So, I'm already torn down to the bottom of the valley and want to pull the distributor out. I'm aware of the method to find TDC using the plug behind the water pump, but if I make the distributor where the rotor is pointing, and I mark the adjusting bracket where the nut is, is it OK to pull the distributor out, change the o ring, then drop it back in but rotated enough so that the rotor turns back into the marked place as it drops in? Is there anything that can go wrong doing this?

Also - I have a NOS impulse coil that I never installed. Should I replace it for the hell of it now?

Anything else I should lube or clean inside the distributor while I have it out?

I'm also going to clean the PCV "mesh" to make sure I'm not building pressure in the valve covers causing this little mess.


Marking the rotor button position as you described is a valid method of removing and reinstalling the distributor so long as the engine isn't spun while the distributor is out. When you pull the distributor out, the rotor will move a bit from your mark and it is worth paying attention to where it pivots so that you can start from that position to allow it to rotate back to the mark as the teeth engage. This was a common task when switching out intakes for weekend events and then putting the dual plane back on for weekday commuting.

[andyo]

OK, I can't check my timing right now because I'm torn down to the bottom of the valley, but my timing is at least close to correct based on engine performance. I do have a timing light and was planning on checking timing when all is said and done and I'm buttoned back up. I just don't want to have to take the distributor out AGAIN once I get the intake and fuel reinstalled.

I'm going to clean that oily metal mesh in the oil filler cap, never done that before. Is there anything else to check in regards to removing pressure from the crankcase? I have never done anything with the charcoal canister, is there anything I should look for there? Otherwise all vacuum lines are in good shape, car runs perfectly, no performance or starting issues, idles at 750 or so after the seeking stops when cold. It's a good runner.

If it were my car, i would just set TDC and do it that way. If you want to be sure you put it in correctly the first time, Its the only sure way to do that.

[Bitsyncmaster]

You were able to get timing close when cars used points but with magnetic sensors you can't really turn the distributor till it fires. So noting the rotor position and marking the rotational position is the best way to get it started again.

[82DMC12]

Thanks guys. I'll be pulling the dizzy out later this week and let you know what I find.

[82DMC12]

Thanks guys. I'll be pulling the dizzy out later this week and let you know what I find.

So I did pull out the metal mesh stuff inside the oil filler cap and it certainly wasn't "bad" but I cleaned it and soaked in carb cleaner. I can see bits of light through it when shining a bright LED lamp into it so I think it's fine. There is no other blockage in the cap. I will double check all my vacuum lines to make sure they are not plugged, but other than that, is there anything else I should check to make sure I'm sucking vapors out of the crank case instead of building pressure? Does the charcoal canister have anything to do with this or is that only for the fuel tank?

Also, the plastic screen on the bottom of the oil filler cracked into about 5 pieces when I tried to pry it out - big surprise being 40 years old and enduring heat cycles. The metal mesh fits very tightly in the cap and I can't image it would ever slip out, and if it did, it would be stopped by the plate under the oil fill neck. Should I be concerned? I'm inclined to scrap the pieces and put the mesh and cap back on the engine.

[David T]

Vacuum gets applied to the crankcase though an orifice attached to the cold start valve tube. There is no PCV. Make sure the hoses are correctly attached, and not blocked or leaking. The vapor canister for the fuel system has no effect on the crankcase ventilation.

[82DMC12]

Quick update to close this thread - I did pull out the distributor and replaced the impulse coil. Not a difficult job I was glad to see there's really only one to put it all back together so it's hard to mess it up. I dropped the distributor back in after rotating the rotor CCW about 15 degrees from my mark and when it fell in, the rotor snapped right into place. I got the rest of the engine built back up and when I started the car cold, put my timing light on it and found I was at about 20 deg instead of 13 deg. I was able to "easily" access the 11mm distributor nut by removing the oil filler cap and the vacuum hoses around it, a couple quick turns and checks with the light and now I'm timed perfectly once again.