Changing out the gasket/seal for the oil pan/sump?

[DrWin]

Also: Am I correct to assume that I can only remove the oil pan under the engine if I get the engine out of the car?
I have the gasket laying around and was going to change it, but I can't figure out how to acces the foremost bolts w/o removing the engine from the car. (?)
68090

[painterdave72]

I have taken mine out to do connecting rod bearings and powdercoated my pan.. no you just have to undo the motor mounts and jack the engine up ... Dave..

[DrWin]

I have taken mine out to do connecting rod bearings and powdercoated my pan.. no you just have to undo the motor mounts and jack the engine up ... Dave..

So basically just undo the bolt pictured and the one on the other side and it will lift up?

Can I set the jack on the pan, lower the engine when the pan is loose and then get it out that way or do I need to support the jack somewhere else on the engine? Is a motor lift/crane pref? (I have one)


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[painterdave72]

well if you are taking the pan off yu cant support it by that. .i just used a block of wood on the crank pulley and lifted enough to get the bolts out. .and yes take the mount bolts off first..

[David T]

As hard as it seems to remove the pan, removing the gasket is a real pain in the a**. It is rock hard and the aluminum is soft. If you are replacing the gasket because you think it is leaking, make sure it is not the oil pressure sender on the rear left side. When it leaks it runs down the side and around making it look like the pan seal is leaking. If it is the original pan seal, they don't leak.

[r00b]

I replaced my pan years ago because a mechanic striped out the treads on the oil plug. I disconnected the engine mounts and used an engine hoist to to raise the engine enough to get at the rear bolts. I used a yellow scotch-brite roloc disc to remove the old gasket, that made the job easy. What I didn't know at the time was that the old gasket was made with asbestos. So get a respirator that filters out asbestos.

[DrWin]

As hard as it seems to remove the pan, removing the gasket is a real pain in the a**. It is rock hard and the aluminum is soft. If you are replacing the gasket because you think it is leaking, make sure it is not the oil pressure sender on the rear left side. When it leaks it runs down the side and around making it look like the pan seal is leaking. If it is the original pan seal, they don't leak.

Everything is covered in oil and grime on my engine, so I have zero clue where it is coming from. I wanted to replace the gasket as an preventive maintenance thing. Thanks for the heads up. :)

[DrWin]

I replaced my pan years ago because a mechanic striped out the treads on the oil plug. I disconnected the engine mounts and used an engine hoist to to raise the engine enough to get at the rear bolts. I used a yellow scotch-brite roloc disc to remove the old gasket, that made the job easy. What I didn't know at the time was that the old gasket was made with asbestos. So get a respirator that filters out asbestos.

Thanks. That's the other half of knowing what to do - is knowing what to do it with. :)

[David T]

No need to replace it "just because". The OEM gasket doesn't leak but the replacements have been known to. Have the engine bay pressure washed and reseal or replace the sending unit on the rear left. That is the one for the light, not the gauge. The wire going to it always gets burnt up so either replace that section with a higher temp wire or put a sleeve on it.

[DrWin]

No need to replace it "just because". The OEM gasket doesn't leak but the replacements have been known to. Have the engine bay pressure washed and reseal or replace the sending unit on the rear left. That is the one for the light, not the gauge. The wire going to it always gets burnt up so either replace that section with a higher temp wire or put a sleeve on it.

Roger - I'll consider leaving it alone then. :)

Yeah, I saw that it was burned up. I was actually going to order a new DPI main engine wiring harness, but it's not available until late this month. I'll propably do some repairs to it myself and buy a new one next winter.

[David T]

Roger - I'll consider leaving it alone then. :)

Yeah, I saw that it was burned up. I was actually going to order a new DPI main engine wiring harness, but it's not available until late this month. I'll propably do some repairs to it myself and buy a new one next winter.

Unless the harness is all chopped up or burnt, or the plugs are all damaged, you should be able to do some minor repairs to it and not have to replace it. If you need the black tape, do not use ordinary electrical tape. The glue oozes and gets all messy. Order electrical wrap tape from Eastwood. For firesleeve you can get that from Summit Racing. Make sure the harness is secured according to the recall and cannot interfere with the throttle.

[DrWin]

Unless the harness is all chopped up or burnt, or the plugs are all damaged, you should be able to do some minor repairs to it and not have to replace it. If you need the black tape, do not use ordinary electrical tape. The glue oozes and gets all messy. Order electrical wrap tape from Eastwood. For firesleeve you can get that from Summit Racing. Make sure the harness is secured according to the recall and cannot interfere with the throttle.

Thanks! Yeah. Some of the black connectors (dupont?) are crisp enough to fracture when handled. Other connectors are fine, tape is coming off all over and the one that goes down the left side of the engine is - as you said it would be - burned. Good pointers, will look into that.


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[Ethan Rode]

No need to replace it "just because". The OEM gasket doesn't leak but the replacements have been known to. Have the engine bay pressure washed and reseal or replace the sending unit on the rear left. That is the one for the light, not the gauge. The wire going to it always gets burnt up so either replace that section with a higher temp wire or put a sleeve on it.

I have to agree with Dave on this one.

Would recommend not lifting or supporting the engine off the crank pulley, if you do end up doing the pan gasket. The pulley is sheet metal, and the engine wasn't designed be lifted there. There are four lift points provided on the top side. Use those instead.

[DrWin]

I have to agree with Dave on this one.

Would recommend not lifting or supporting the engine off the crank pulley, if you do end up doing the pan gasket. The pulley is sheet metal, and the engine wasn't designed be lifted there. There are four lift points provided on the top side. Use those instead.

Good idea, I have the hoist anyway, might as well use it. :)


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[DMCMW Dave]

I also agree with David T - I've NEVER seen an OEM pan gasket leak if it has never been touched. The leakers are the rear main seal, main seal mounting plate, sometimes the front main seal, always the oil pressure switch. Valve cover gaskets if they have been disturbed etc.