Adjusting the valves

[DrWin]

So, I'm gonna have a go at adjusting the valves today, before I put the valve covers back on and start reassembling the engine. I noticed that the cold valve clearances are given as a range. 0.04" => 0.06". I would think that it would be a very meaningful difference between 0.04" and 0.06" as it is a 50% increase in clearance. But does it actually matter? If it matters, what happens if I go with 0.04" versus 0.06"?

[Michael]

I last did mine a few years ago and I don't remember a range being given. I will go have a look because I am sure I made notes. Seems like I used metric specs for my adjustments?

If there was a range given, I would probably opt for the smaller gap or split the difference.

Edit: I checked my book and there is a range and I did use a metric specs but the sae printed on them werr so close to the manual I went with the smaller gap. PS The range was listed as .004-.006 on the intake so we are in mils. Anyway I went with the smaller gaps in my car.

[Michael]

PS: you might get a smoother idle and a bit of low end grunt with the larger gaps or 1/4 extra peak hp with the tighter clearance. On this engine, I don't think it matters. Next time I do my valves I may try the looser settings and see if that actually makes a discernable difference.

[David T]

The reason there is a range and not a single number is if the gap is between those numbers you do not have to touch the adjuster on that particular valve. It is hard to get it exactly anyway. I always aim for the middle of the spec.

[Michael]

The reason there is a range and not a single number is if the gap is between those numbers you do not have to touch the adjuster on that particular valve. It is hard to get it exactly anyway. I always aim for the middle of the spec.

I never considered that but if I'm there, the valve is closed and I measure...99% of the work getting there is already done. I'm adjusting it anyway just to make sure I'm not "feeling" it wrong.

[DrWin]

The reason there is a range and not a single number is if the gap is between those numbers you do not have to touch the adjuster on that particular valve. It is hard to get it exactly anyway. I always aim for the middle of the spec.


I never considered that but if I'm there, the valve is closed and I measure...99% of the work getting there is already done. I'm adjusting it anyway just to make sure I'm not "feeling" it wrong.

Thanks for the intel. :) I'm wondering about something equally basic now: How do I get the engine to turn, so I can get to TDC on cylinder one? I know there are two marks on the pulley and which one to use - but how do I turn the engine over with an automatic transmission?

[Michael]

Thanks for the intel. :) I'm wondering about something equally basic now: How do I get the engine to turn, so I can get to TDC on cylinder one? I know there are two marks on the pulley and which one to use - but how do I turn the engine over with an automatic transmission?

I think the approved method is to get on the main crank pulley nut but the pulley has a deep dish cup so you will need a offset box end. I didn't have one so I borrowed a chain wrench and got on it from the outer part of the pulley. It will bite into it so wrap it a few times with duct tape to keep the chain from marring the pulley edge.
Another old school method is if you have a trigger starter to keep bumping the starter until you get lucky. Not a fan of that but to each his own.

Pulling the plugs helps but not that necessary if you get on it with a chain wrench like I did.

The book's method works and is designed to save time but I just went through one by one and adjusted each valve individually not paying attention to the timing mark and just watching the rocker arm for the valve I was on. It gave me the assurance that that valve was adjusted right. Like I said it took longer but I had nothing but time with snow on the ground.

[DrWin]

I think the approved method is to get on the main crank pulley nut but the pulley has a deep dish cup so you will need a offset box end. I didn't have one so I borrowed a chain wrench and got on it from the outer part of the pulley. It will bite into it so wrap it a few times with duct tape to keep the chain from marring the pulley edge.
Another old school method is if you have a trigger starter to keep bumping the starter until you get lucky. Not a fan of that but to each his own.

Pulling the plugs helps but not that necessary if you get on it with a chain wrench like I did.

The book's method works and is designed to save time but I just went through one by one and adjusted each valve individually not paying attention to the timing mark and just watching the rocker arm for the valve I was on. It gave me the assurance that that valve was adjusted right. Like I said it took longer but I had nothing but time with snow on the ground.

Nice - this means I'll be able to get there by removing the heat shield and the muffler, which was slated to go anyway. 32mm is too tight, 36mm is too loose, so I'm assuming its a 34mm bolt. Thanks!

[DrWin]

Nice - this means I'll be able to get there by removing the heat shield and the muffler, which was slated to go anyway. 32mm is too tight, 36mm is too loose, so I'm assuming its a 34mm bolt. Thanks!

Turned out to be a 36mm. :)
Still have more questions...

68118
So, going by the Volvo manual, I checked if the timing plate was correctly placed. Needs to go 1 degree left, right?
68119
When that is done, I wanna adjust the damn valves already...
68120
Can someone explain what this means: "Turn crankshaft one turn in normal direction to overlap position for no 1 cylinder"
Normal direction? Clockwise from behind the car?
Overlap pos. for no 1 cylinder? (one full 360* turn will get me back to TDC for cyl 1, right?

[Ron]

Turned out to be a 36mm. :)
Still have more questions...

68118
So, going by the Volvo manual, I checked if the timing plate was correctly placed. Needs to go 1 degree left, right?
68119
Yes.


When that is done, I wanna adjust the damn valves already...
68120
Can someone explain what this means: "Turn crankshaft one turn in normal direction to overlap position for no 1 cylinder"
Normal direction? Clockwise from behind the car?

Overlap pos. for no 1 cylinder? (one full 360* turn will get me back to TDC for cyl 1, right?
Yes, clockwise, when standing at the rear of the car...facing the front of the engine.

...for each 360° turn, the cam will alternate between the overlap and firing position for #1 cylinder .

[David T]

The procedure in the manual to me is overly complicated. I use another method which will work on any motor. I turn the motor until a valve in the cylinder is open, that means the other one is closed and can be adjusted. It may take a bit longer to do, you wind up turning the motor more times but I use a bump switch (starter button) so I can move the motor quickly and it doesn't have to be as precise. The valves should not need much, if any, adjustment unless you have a lot of miles on the motor and the valves haven't been checked in a long time. When you do the valves you should be doing a tune-up, replacing the spark plugs, cap, rotor, air filter and O2 sensor. Check the timing and mixture, and reset the Lambda counter.