Bulkhead connectors unplugged, now won't start, HELP!

[Beachdrifter]

Hi all,

So I had a situation today where my temp gauge was not working. Part of my diagnosis was was unplugging and plugging back in the bulk head connectors to see if that would fix the problem. It ended up being instead that I did the paperclip trick through the odometer hole to budge the needle back in place.

So now I am trying to start the car and when I turn the key, all my accessories turn on, but the car won't start. I just hear a relay or something click and thats it. Previous in today the car was running great minus the temp gauge.

So now my temp gauge is fixed but car won't start. All I did was unplug and plug back in the bulk head connectors and didnt mess with anything else. Any idea whythis is happening now?

Never a dull moment,

Thanks for any help,

[Bitsyncmaster]

I think I did that once. Had swapped the two white connectors into the wrong mate.

[Beachdrifter]

Also I forgot to mention that when I turn the key not even the starter is engaging, so everything just stays silent.

[Bitsyncmaster]

Now that I think about it. My yellow connector was white on the harness side so I had swapped that 9 pin with the white 9 pin. I guess they ran out of yellow connectors on the car harness.

[Bitsyncmaster]

Your wire to the starter is in the 7 pin white connector. You may have pushed that pin out or the crimp is marginal.

[MrChocky]

You might want to get some needle files if you don't already. Endless uses.

[Beachdrifter]

You might want to get some needle files if you don't already. Endless uses.


Thank you guys. So never underestimate a bunch of connectors thinking it's just a simple plug in and out. It seems after unplugging them, the contacts did not reset as intended and the starter bulkhead connection was not seating or making a good metal contact. In addition, the bulkhead contact controlling all the idle stuff (the other white one) was driving my idle crazy. After taking them out and using a wire brush (be sure to disconnect the battery!!!) , did a little cleaning, and inspected the female contacts to make sure they were not out of round, i plugged it all back in and car started up again, and idled normal again.

Sigh, the joys of a 40 yr old car.
Well in the end, my temp gauge is fixed thanks to a paper clip, and my car starts back up thanks to cleaning some contacts. I definitely will get a good set of needle files.

Thanks,

[81dmc]

40 year old car no. The problem is Lucas.

[Beachdrifter]

40 year old car no. The problem is Lucas.

It's not surprising that there is no substitute for time. Time is time and with age things you thought would never go bad will eventually. Sometimes we think material things are eternal . I've had this car for almost 20yrs and replaced the most common things to keep it in safe drivable and mechanically sound condition. But sometimes the simplest things seem to evade me because I don't want to believe it's actually something that simple that could be the cause. Then to think it was basically like hitting the "easy" button all along and on my way.

Although I have to say I had to play with these bulkhead connectors a lot, that I was starting to doubt it was them until they finally made contact again.

[81dmc]

It's not surprising that there is no substitute for time. Time is time and with age things you thought would never go bad will eventually. Sometimes we think material things are eternal . I've had this car for almost 20yrs and replaced the most common things to keep it in safe drivable and mechanically sound condition. But sometimes the simplest things seem to evade me because I don't want to believe it's actually something that simple that could be the cause. Then to think it was basically like hitting the "easy" button all along and on my way.

Although I have to say I had to play with these bulkhead connectors a lot, that I was starting to doubt it was them until they finally made contact again.

Yes time is time, but the thing is, the electrical system on these cars were not built well to begin with.

I have a few other cars 40+ years old. Thing is they are German. Contacts are solid and soldered vs Lucas crimped unsoldered. One thing I did on 831 is replace many connectors with sealed connectors, and my issues are now history.


Anyways, your issue prove it is a good idea to wire brush all exterior contacts on these cars every few years to avoid intermittent electrical issues. This isn’t the first time those horrible bulkhead connectors have stranded a delorean.

Just realized you are also in FL. Salt air and high humidity certainly doesn’t help.

[DeloreanJapan]

Ive also experienced something similar symptoms.

When turn the key for 1st click, and then the Acc are on but my addon volt meter shows only 5V to 8V in whole electric system .

And turn key to 2nd click the whole car just went silent , naturally ,keep turning the key to start the engine will result
in nothing , just the none stop relaying clicking noise repeatly .

So Ive check the 2 Heavy duty relay there volt are 12V full and other is 6V , but the battery are 12V full aswell, so somehow only both heavy duty relay when at ignition position, they can't get enougth Volt to keep contact the relay to send power to start the starter .

after replacing many other 70AMP or 80AMP heavy duty relay , Ive finally found the problem was the Battery kill switch , due to uneven contact surface creat by the corrosion , seems the resistance are increase a lot in wires, that result the uneven volt at both relay due to wire Length different .

But other wise I really dont know what cause this annoyingly symptoms

[Ron]

Ive also experienced something similar symptoms.

When turn the key for 1st click, and then the Acc are on but my addon volt meter shows only 5V to 8V in whole electric system .

And turn key to 2nd click the whole car just went silent , naturally ,keep turning the key to start the engine will result
in nothing , just the none stop relaying clicking noise repeatly .

So Ive check the 2 Heavy duty relay there volt are 12V full and other is 6V , but the battery are 12V full aswell, so somehow only both heavy duty relay when at ignition position, they can't get enougth Volt to keep contact the relay to send power to start the starter .

after replacing many other 70AMP or 80AMP heavy duty relay , Ive finally found the problem was the Battery kill switch , due to uneven contact surface creat by the corrosion , seems the resistance are increase a lot in wires, that result the uneven volt at both relay due to wire Length different .

But other wise I really dont know what cause this annoyingly symptomsIf you are saying that a Brown wire feeding Auxiliary Relay 1 or 2 only has 6V (disconnected from the relay), try jumping 12V right off of the battery (+) terminal to the relay's Brown terminal. If that works, repair or replace that Brown wire.
(All of the solid Brown wires connect together and should have 12V at all times. Length shouldn't matter here. Showing 12V on a meter does not mean that there is enough amperage available - Make sure the battery is fully charged.)
If no luck, start a new thread and we can work on your particular problem.