Leaking A/C Hose Crimp: Fix or Replace?

[jangell]

I fnally tracked down a significant R134a leak in my car. About 3 years ago I'd replaced the entire system front-to-back. By this summer I had to put a new can of R134a in every few weeks, then every two days. I tried adding dye and failed to find the leak. I even pulled the evaporator, but I couldn't find any sign of dye on anything.

I finally presurized the system with argon and just listened for the gas to escape. I quickly found the leak on the crimp of the hose that attaches to the top of the compressor. You could clearly hear the gas escaping. Covering the bototm end of the crimp with my fingers changed or removed the sound, so that's defnitely it.

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The question is how to fix it. This is of course one of the lines that runs all the way from the front of the car to the back, and kind of a pain to replace (I do not have split hoses), but I can do it. But replacing it seems like the best fix.

However, I'm wondering if there's an easy way to just re-crimp it so it doesn't leak, or if that's just going to lead to more leaks in the future. Also, I think DMC TX is out of stock of the single-piece R134a version of the hose, although I see DeLoreanGo has the split hose available.

Any suggestions? Would you reommend replacing the hose or trying to repair the crimp?

Thanks!

-- Joe

[Bitsyncmaster]

The crimp just holds the hose in. It's not what seals, that would be the inside and the pipe surface. I think you would need a new pipe and cut off the current end but then your hose may be to short. DPI sells one piece hoses that you crimp ends on after the hose is routed.

[jangell]

Gotcha, so repairing it is not an option, at least not without cutting out the bad part of the hose. Thanks!

-- Joe

[Helirich]

I wouldn’t say fixing is “not an option.” Recrimping may not work, but you could cut it short a crimp a fitting on and then make a new short hose that attaches to that fitting. Not sure how hard it is to replace. Also, some crimpers are not small, so getting them to a hose on the car might be difficult.

[DMC-Ron]

Joe,
You might try using a Gates PowerGrip SB Thermoplastic Hose Clamp. It looks like it may be possible to slip it over the connection nut then center it where crimp base and hose meet. These are available at many NAPPA stores. Yes, they're mostly used for coolant systems but reviews on Amazon indicate they've been used on refrigerant lines.

https://www.gates.com/gb/en/fluid-power/engine-hose/hose-clamps-and-couplings.p.7405-000000-000000.html

Don't know if this would fix your leak, but the low cost and easy install might make it worth a try.

Ron

[David T]

Do not try to fix the hose. Check for damage where it passes by the steering universal. My guess it is damaged there and what you see is where the gas is leaking out at the crimp. Replace it and be careful to keep it away from the steering.

[Ron]

Joe,
You might try using a Gates PowerGrip SB Thermoplastic Hose Clamp. It looks like it may be possible to slip it over the connection nut then center it where crimp base and hose meet. These are available at many NAPPA stores. Yes, they're mostly used for coolant systems but reviews on Amazon indicate they've been used on refrigerant lines.

https://www.gates.com/gb/en/fluid-power/engine-hose/hose-clamps-and-couplings.p.7405-000000-000000.html

Don't know if this would fix your leak, but the low cost and easy install might make it worth a try.

Ron
+1
FWIW- It looks to me like the wrong size crimp tool was used. (It's shaped like a football and has a gap).

The hose being only 3 years old, I'd consider using one of these (https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c/murray-climate-control/tools---equipment/professional-equipment/hydraulic-equipment---fittings/air-conditioning-crimp-on-fittings/a2d7ebb13a96/murray-climate-control-ac-fitting-flare/mry0/10408/v/a/143786/automotive-truck-2018-chevrolet-silverado-1500?pos=23), but for the sizes you need:

And rerouting like this (for turbo setup, iirc).
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[Ethan Rode]

Man, I'd just replace it.

Mothership sells this hose for $162, DGo for $140. With the original condenser and an empty system, I'd estimate two hours max to replace with a split hose, not including vac and recharge time.

[Timeless]

Man, I'd just replace it.

Mothership sells this hose for $162, DGo for $140. With the original condenser and an empty system, I'd estimate two hours max to replace with a split hose, not including vac and recharge time.
Sound advice.

[81dmc]

Replace it with Eaton EZ Clip. This is the type of system DPI sells for DIY.

I know the local Hydraulic Supply Company sells all the Eaton fittings, hoses, and clips. So before dropping $$$ on a vendor part, look around at some local hydraulic shops up there. They may have what you are looking for at a fraction of the cost.

[kings1527]

I'd recommend replace. I put Hervey's split lines in my car about 10 years ago and split lines are super easy to install. Having never done it before, complete replacement took me about 45 min start to finish. People always mention "yes but you introduce another two leak points into the system". I've never had a problem with that, either. About a year ago, I had my evaporator give up the ghost after replacing it about 10 years ago too so I replaced all of the seals on the car including at the split hose unions while the system was empty. Simple preventative maintenance when you have the opportunity. FWIW, I use the green o-rings that you can find in any auto store in my system that is still R12.