Welp. I "rescued" my 2nd Delorean today.....help me formulate a game plan?

[rjd2]

So I spent 4(?) years or so slowly restoring/updating my running and driving Delorean, and as of 2 months ago, I consider the car "done". A joy to drive, and gets smiles everywhere, as you all know. About 1.5 years ago or so, someone I know said "my friend has a Delorean. Been sitting in his garage for years. Might sell it." So I made the connection, and we had periodically talked about it over that time. He finally got serious about selling it, and so I made a plan to go down to the outskirts of Cincinnati-a 2 hour drive from Columbus-with the intention of buying the car, assuming it was what he said it was. I took my car trailer. Frankly, I was stunned. I've rarely seen an interior this original on any classic car. The leather, body panels, dash, fascias, carpet-all perfect. It has the original cassette player, the original antenna. 6500 miles on the odometer. Wheels? no curb rash whatsoever. Turns out, the fuel pump apparently failed in 1993, and the car got parked indoors, and has sat since. Crank turns freely by hand. undercarriage looks good; a bit of rust on the bolts themselves, and some minor rust in one small spot where the coating has chipped, but otherwise very solid looking. All the documentation ws with the car, the original user manual and everything.

The down side: the clutch cable does not function, and appears to either be snapped or seized. no resistance at the pedal. the transmission(manual 5 speed) feels very gummy. and it has sat with the fluids in it for 30 years.

So, I bought the car. Loaded it up, and now have it back here. I need to come up with a game plan, or think I probably SHOULD. The good news is that most if not all of the work needed to be done, I have already done on my driver car. I made a spreadsheet earlier this week for all the parts I think I'll need(I basically would intend to update the suspension, brakes steering rack, top end of engine, rebuild alternator, rebuild cooling system). The total came to around 6k in parts. This is fine, as I am confident I can stay well below "underwater" on the car, considering what I paid for it(I think a fair price for such a well preserved car). But I feel like it's smart for me to try to come up with a holistic game plan. I would love your advice!

I made a point to not depress the brake pedal, or hand brake, to not risk caliper seizing. I know I will need to pull the wheels, calipers, and have the rotors turned. I have not decided on whether doing suspension bushings is necessary; I have the parts in the parts list for now. Obviously I need to pull the entire top end of the engine, replace all fuel and coolant hoses and associated fuel delivery pieces, and get the clutch working properly. Plan on pulling the fuel tank and having it cleaned, when I do fuel pump/filter. But in terms of order of operations, and things I'm possibly overlooking that could bear on these parts of the project, is there anything I'm missing? Thanks for the help. I didn't make it a mission to buy a 2nd Delorean, but I really do love these cars, and want to see this one back on the road, even if it doesnt stay with me forever.

[NJP548]

The down side: the clutch cable does not function, and appears to either be snapped or seized. no resistance at the pedal.

Just wanted to clarify that the clutch system is hydraulic and it most likely has the original plastic line. The current recommendation is to replace this line with the stainless version.

-Nick

[Rich]

Nice to know another sleeping DeLorean will wake up soon.

Your plan may be solid already on renewing the fuel system. Just some comments on that topic here for you and the community since it's a common issue with Ds that were put away wet.

- Here is a link to a How-To (https://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?637) about cleaning a sleeping D's gummy K-Jet fuel system starting with the fuel tank but covering everything from there to the injectors.

- The fuel distributor will probably need a rebuild, as you probably know. You can job that out to Fuel Injection Corp. (https://fuelinjectioncorp.com/products/fuel-distributors/) They also handle WUR/CPR rebuilds. (They don't test or clean D injectors - I asked them about that 3 months ago.)

- With the rest of the fuel system cleaned or renewed you can connect the 6 old injectors to run fuel through them in a flow rate and spray pattern test. If they pass the test you won't need to replace them. Or you could opt to send all the injectors for a spray/flow test any time at a place like Injector Repair (https://injectorrepair.com/). Jim has a decent test rig and offers good service, including a written report you get when he returns the injectors to you.

[David T]

Figure on rebuilding the brakes and clutch hydraulics, tires, fluids and filters, hoses and belts, flushing out the fuel system, battery, wiper blades, struts, water pump and fuel pump. This is just to get the car to move and drive. Once you can get it going you will see what else it needs. If it still has the plastic clutch hose, replace it. If it has the original radiator with the plastic tanks, replace it. If it still has the plastic header bottle, replace it. Check and see if it had all of the recalls done. Figure on replacing the hoses on the A/C at a minimum. Check for the relay upgrade. It takes a lot to wake up an old Delorean and parts cost a lot more than they used to. If you don't figure your labor, you can make a lot of money if you bought it right. At least you say it doesn't have a rusted out frame!

[rjd2]

Thanks folks! Little egg on my face there; I never had any clutch issues on my driver car, and never pulled the diagrams or whatnot, so I just assumed it was a mechanical clutch! I put in an order from DMC Texas today as a "first wave"-materials to rebuild the clutch and braking system, and replace all the door struts. I think I'm gonna move in phases on this project.

Nick-would you suggest me replacing the clutch MC and SC while I'm at it? Or just do the hose, and see where that puts me?

Rich-thanks a TON. those links are going to be massively helpful! I'll send the fuel distributor and injectors out; any place I can sensibly outsource stuff like that, I will. I would like to send out the tank for cleaning too.

One of my big "what if's" is this: when I did my suspension, I did all the bushings at the front and rear. But this car has 6500 miles on it. Should I do the bushings and the steering rack, while it's all apart? I plan on putting in the DMC Eibach suspension kit, I like how it rides and looks in my current car. Obviously the job would be easier while it's apart, but with that little wear, I wonder if it's necessary? Thoughts?

[Rich]

Thanks folks! ...I never had any clutch issues on my driver car, and never pulled the diagrams or whatnot, so I just assumed it was a mechanical clutch!

Side note based on this new info:

And now you also know you'll want to flush/bleed the clutch on your driver car soon if you haven't done so within the past 2 yrs. (As with the brakes. And the coolant.)

[rjd2]

Side note based on this new info:

And now you also know you'll want to flush/bleed the clutch on your driver car soon if you haven't done so within the past 2 yrs. (As with the brakes. And the coolant.)

Thanks. I did a full rebuild on both in my driver car-new radiator, new hoses, calipers, MC, SS hoses, rebled. The clutch always behaved properly, so I never had a need to address it. At some point, I'll swap the plastic hose.

[NJP548]

Nick-would you suggest me replacing the clutch MC and SC while I'm at it? Or just do the hose, and see where that puts me?

I would definitely recommend replacing the master and the slave cylinder while you're at it.

Good luck!

-Nick

[rjd2]

Thanks Nick. They were part of my order, so I'll do the whole kit and kaboodle.

Is there a way to test the suspension bushings, and the steering rack, or should I just shotgun it all when I do brakes/springs/shocks?

[David T]

I would not worry about that stuff until you can drive the car, you may find that it is all OK. I would inspect it all and spray the bushings with silicone and grease the rod ends and ball joints and see how it drives.

[rjd2]

Thanks for the tips ya'll. I think a plan is coming together. Love it when a plan comes together.

I am planning on getting clutch and brakes sorted, and address the "gummy" feeling transmission.(drain/refill trans fluid? diff too while I'm at it?)

Two issues I see needing an immediate remedy for are the struts/supports(got em ordered), and the smell of the interior. Its musty/mildewy. Should I pull the carpet, or can I clean it in place? My first wave would be vinegar, baking soda, hot water, and a shop vac. I have several fans at my shop space, so I should be able to move alot of air through the car itself. Thoughts on that?

[iflights]

Its musty/mildewy. Should I pull the carpet, or can I clean it in place? My first wave would be vinegar, baking soda, hot water, and a shop vac. I have several fans at my shop space, so I should be able to move alot of air through the car itself. Thoughts on that?

Is it truly mildew i.e. mold growth? Or is it simply smelling stale or as some would call it "DeLorean smell". I would figure out what is the cause first, because different solutions are needed for different problems.

[Rich]

I am planning on getting clutch and brakes sorted, and address the "gummy" feeling transmission.(drain/refill trans fluid? diff too while I'm at it?)


Not sure what you mean by a gummy feeling in the transmission. Since the car doesn't run I assume you're feeling that in the shifter?

If so then tell us in which direction(s) you are feeling that resistance. Left-right (excluding the return springs) or fore-aft or both? Some of the linkage may need cleaning/lube.

The manual transaxle oil doesn't get gummy, even if the car's just sitting, as far as I know. Nothing wrong with renewing it if you do it right.

[Timeless]

Is it truly mildew i.e. mold growth? Or is it simply smelling stale or as some would call it "DeLorean smell". I would figure out what is the cause first, because different solutions are needed for different problems.
My car had the Delorean smell/old car smell. 30-40 minutes with an ozone machine and it's 90% improved.

[rjd2]

i can't see mold or mildew yet, but this smell is what i associate with that. it doesnt smell just like "old car smell" to me. I will likely give the carpet a spray of vinegar, leave the doors open, and blast it with fans, and then try baking soda, and see where that gets me.

on the manual transaxle, L-R in neutral has a lot of resistance, and up/down 1st/2nd gear is better but still not great. i can try lubricating the linkage and see where that gets me. thanks!

[Helirich]

I would just shampoo the carpet real good. Then dry it out with the fans. (After a wetvac) I’m not sure about the vinegar. Is that something you’ve done before? Maybe treat the leather with something.

I just finished another project that I installed new leather seats in. It smells like a new car. I would love to get that smell in the Delorean. I’ve seen some sprays in the parts stores that say “new car smell”. Not sure if they are snake oil. Mine doesn’t really smell at all. I will say I’ve flown a few aircraft that were cleaned with “Fabreez”. It’s pretty nice. I might try it.

[David T]

Pull all of the carpeting and shampoo it. The padding is what holds the smells. Also if the brake or clutch master leaked you will find brake fluid under the driver's carpet.

[Rich]

And when you're done with any of these remedies and there is still a lingering odor try half a box of baking soda spread out in a pie tin or a tray placed on the floor or the parcel shelf. With the doors closed. Mabye two of them if it's a strong odor.

It has done wonders for random smells in my other cars (dry pet food, spilled coffee, passengers wearing way too much cologne during a drive).

Just be sure to renew the baking soda every 2-3 days. Try that for a week or two.

And remember to remove it before you drive the car!

[andyo]

I just picked up a second project as well. (well... in February) though this one was a little more used and not stored very well. despite that, I got it running without rebuilding the fuel distributor, the WUR needed attention and i had a second one on hand. All was well, started up and ran even with the WUR not doing its job well, but run better after swapping it out. Not saying it wont benefit from a wholesale rebuild, just that it may not need it. You can always send it out later. Was there still gas in the tank?

If you're planning to drop the fuel tank out anyway, that makes it super easy to clean yourself. Use acetone and some lint free rags and go to town. its pretty easy to clean in the car too if you con/don't mind climbing into the luggage compartment and contorting yourself. It is difficult to reach the back of the tank, but a wooden stick or piece of PVC or something to extend your reach with some rags wrapped around it makes it doable. I tape the rags to what i'm using so they stay put. either way, it cleans up pretty easy with acetone.

I also swapped out all the rubber bushings on my first car... i kinda wish i wouldn't have because they weren't really worn out and now I'm worried about the quality of the replacements... My first car had 40k miles on it and they still had plenty of life left. Inspect them for cracking and separation between he metal and rubber. If they are not separated, it wouldn't change them out. I wouldn't take the suspension apart just to change them either.

[mhanch]

Step 1: Acquire DeLorean
Step 2:???
Step 3: Profit!

[Mark D]

https://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=68474&d=1653419187

Hey! What's Phase 2?!

[andyo]

Its a mysterious mystery.

[rjd2]

Lol, I'm pretty sure I'll be selling one of them, once this car is done. Gonna be tough to decide which. A little update...

1-oil and coolant drained. never smelled 30 year old oil. now i have.

2-started blowing apart fuel delivery system. never smelled 30 year old gas. now i have (smells like varnish).

3-found a stowaway. see pic.

4-carpet tips-thanks folks. i've done 3 days now of vinegar spray, baking soda, and fans. it still stinks. think i'm gonna need to pull the seats and then the carpet.

5-installed new struts/supports all around today, so i can now work safely. 3rd time doing this job in X years, I can do this in probably 15 minutes now lol.

6-HELP: so I was super careful to not apply brake pedal force, cause I was trying to avoid seizing the calipers to the rotors. i got all the calipers removed from the rotors, applied brake to push out the pistons, and.....nothing. the reservoir has fluid in it, but the pedal doesnt move. i am guessing either the booster or the MC or both are seized. is there any way to apply brake pressure, short of replacing them? the good news is that I ordered both, and have them in hand. the bad news is that my plan of having the calipers rebuilt and rotors turned is now thrown into question. i'm pondering just buying the full kit from DMC TX with rotors and calipers. my local guy will rebuild them if the pistons are mostly out. my concern is if I have him throw a bunch of hours at caliper rebuild, I could get close to the cost of just new calipers. thoughts there? my goal is to stay under 10k on parts/outsourced labor, and I currently have about 3k wiggle room, so I could swing the extra 500-700 or whatever it will be.

7-suspension: the control arms look like shit, so while i'm this far, i am going to pull them to blast/paint. i may not replace the bushings, but if I do end up selling this car and keeping my other, I want the suspension to look nice. (entertaining a fancy color, would deep purple control arms be over the top????)

[David T]

Replace the master cylinder. To rebuild the calipers you take them off the car and use compressed air to try to remove the pistons. Could take a lot of "persuasion" to get them loose. Most vendors have a core exchange program so you have to see which way is your best option. Sometimes the bleeder screws break off and you have to drill them out. To pretty them up you have to bead blast and paint or plate them. A lot of work and time. Replace the brake hoses, be careful not to damage the hard lines. Figure on replacing the clutch master and slave cylinders too. Flush the brake and clutch lines out with alcohol before putting in new brake fluid. Flush the fuel lines too. You basically have to rebuild all of the systems on the car after 30 years of sitting, especially systems that have fluids in them.

[rjd2]

Thanks David, that tip about flushing the hard brake lines with alcohol is great! I'll even blow them out with compressed air afterwards. Yes, anything with fluids is getting rebuilt. All rubber is being replaced.

So I am down to the intake manifold, and am ready to send out the fuel delivery parts for rebuild/testing. It hit me this morning that I need to pick how far I'm going this time. I would much rather disassemble/reassemble the top end of the engine once. I am replacing the spark plugs and having the injectors tested. How far should I go here? Water pump now? the front of engine coolant hoses had mounds of white coolant dust when i pulled them, they were bone dry. Also, I checked out the seat removal and found it was fairly straight forward, so I pulled the seats to clean the carpets. The car now smells closer to something that won't give you catastrophic emphysema.


6850768508

[David T]

You should do the "Master Water Pump Kit" that many vendors put together. It includes a water pump, all of the gaskets, hoses, seals, and belts you will need to do the top job. Include the bearings for the 2 idler pulleys and vacuum hoses.