Clutch slave

[Helirich]

I decided to replace my clutch slave cylinder and got one from DPI. It seems like when I was removing the exhaust awhile ago from underneath the car, I thought I could see the clutch slave from there. Since I cant hardly see it from the top, I was thinking maybe it’s easier to change it from the bottom. Is this correct? I don’t have a lift, so it’s kind of a chore to get the whole car jacked up high enough to get under. If it can’t be done from there, it would be nice if someone could tell me now. I checked the “how to’s”.

[David T]

It can be done from the top or the bottom, each has it's own "special" challenges. I prefer to do it from underneath but it is easier after you have done one because when you do it from the bottom you must work by touch. Not that it is any easier from the top but at least you can see a little bit but access is worse. It only needs to be replaced if it leaks.

[Mark D]

It can be done from the top or the bottom, each has it's own "special" challenges. I prefer to do it from underneath but it is easier after you have done one because when you do it from the bottom you must work by touch. Not that it is any easier from the top but at least you can see a little bit but access is worse. It only needs to be replaced if it leaks.


That's what she said.

[Helirich]

It can be done from the top or the bottom, each has it's own "special" challenges. I prefer to do it from underneath but it is easier after you have done one because when you do it from the bottom you must work by touch. Not that it is any easier from the top but at least you can see a little bit but access is worse. It only needs to be replaced if it leaks.

Does yours have stock exhaust? I’m thinking if the inter-connect pipe is not there, you can see it from the bottom. That’s probably how I saw it from the bottom before.

I haven’t leaked any fluid, but when the car sits for a week, I’ve got no clutch. The master is a year old and it has the stainless hose. I think maybe the seal in the slave is no good. (Letting fluid by)

[David T]

The slave cylinder is a VERY simple device. Very few parts. If it leaks you know because you will have to add fluid to the master reservoir and you would see a thin, dark fluid dripping from the bottom of the bell housing.

[Helirich]

The slave cylinder is a VERY simple device. Very few parts. If it leaks you know because you will have to add fluid to the master reservoir and you would see a thin, dark fluid dripping from the bottom of the bell housing.

If it leaks air into it, you won’t see it.

I got the car up on jack stands and I can see it easily now. (Without the crossover tube) I would have changed it, but got called to another project.

[MrChocky]

That's what she said.

+1

As for her (the DeLorean silly), the slave is readily accessible from underneath if you don't have a crossover pipe. It's just a bit confusing first time around
since you don't understand how it fits in place, and that you need to push hoses out of the way.

Getting from on top seems like too much grief, especially for us of merely average height, it'd be a great deal of leaning over and reaching around (ahem).

[David T]

To get it from the top I put a moving blanket over the motor and lay on it to reach the clutch cylinder. You have to try to move all of the hoses and wires over to get to it. Not worth it. Yes, if the car doesn't have the cross/over pipe it is a LOT easier from the bottom.

[Bitsyncmaster]

If you never pulled the intake off, just do it now. With it off there is no problem from the top and then you can clean your valley.

[Helirich]

If you never pulled the intake off, just do it now. With it off there is no problem from the top and then you can clean your valley.

I figured that was a big job. Was going to wait til I need a water pump for that.

[Helirich]

I finished this job and definitely it’s better to do from the bottom on a car with no cross over pipe. It was a much harder job than anticipated. Again, the manual was of no help. “Remove two bolts and line, remove cylinder”, duh.

If anybody searches and finds this thread, the only hint I can give you is a ratchet strap on the clutch fork can make it easier to get off and on. I could only move the clutch fork about a 1/4” for fear of breaking the strap, but that makes a difference.

The other bit of help I can offer is buy a cordless power ratchet. My mount bolts were tight the whole way off and on. There’s hardly any room to swing a conventional ratchet.

[82DMC12]

I finished this job and definitely it’s better to do from the bottom on a car with no cross over pipe. It was a much harder job than anticipated. Again, the manual was of no help. “Remove two bolts and line, remove cylinder”, duh.

If anybody searches and finds this thread, the only hint I can give you is a ratchet strap on the clutch fork can make it easier to get off and on. I could only move the clutch fork about a 1/4” for fear of breaking the strap, but that makes a difference.

The other bit of help I can offer is buy a cordless power ratchet. My mount bolts were tight the whole way off and on. There’s hardly any room to swing a conventional ratchet.

Did you hook the ratchet strap to the horizontal part that the pin is attached to? Where did you attach the other end of the strap? I'll be doing this job very shortly from under the car.

[Helirich]

Did you hook the ratchet strap to the horizontal part that the pin is attached to? Where did you attach the other end of the strap? I'll be doing this job very shortly from under the car.

I actually hooked it to one of the fork arms right next to the horizontal part. It pulled kind of funky. My ractchet strap did not have ideal hooks for this job and it kind of wedged between the fork and pin. But again, I don’t think I could have done the job without it. I had a h*ll of a time with it. I believe hooked the other end on the frame by the accumulator.

One other hint-remove the hex stand off where the line hooks up. It’s easy to put back on after you get the cylinder back on. I had a real problem getting the cylinder back in place because there are so many hoses and wires around it. That stand off would catch up on stuff while I was trying to get it in place. You have to squeeze the pin into the cylinder as hard as you can and then pivot it down in place. Squeezing the spring is easy on the bench, but it’s hard with one hand under the car. I also used a short punch to help line up the holes. (Careful not to wreck threads)

My cylinder had one long bolt and one short. I don’t think that is right, but I had to reuse them. The long bolt only went on the pax side. (Of course, I tried it the other way)

I agree with Dave that the job would probably be way easier from the top with the intake removed. But that’s a whole nother bag of worms I didn’t want to get in to.